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VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty Sep 11, 2022

VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty

The Tambour is Louis Vuitton’s most well-known watch design.  The fashion mega-brand has been slowly but surely establishing itself as a top-tier watchmaker since establishing Le Fabrique Du Temps, their dedicated watch manufacture, in 2014. Since then, several of Louis Vuitton’s watches have earned the Geneva Seal, a rarified standard of Swiss watchmaking reserved for … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Exploring the deep-cased majesty of the Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Science of Steel, The Stuff Of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements And The Backbone Of Watchmaking - Reprise Quill & Pad
Sep 10, 2022

The Science of Steel, The Stuff Of Cases, Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Pinions, Escapements And The Backbone Of Watchmaking - Reprise

Joshua Munchow talks about steel here, the metal that made the world! Watch cases and other movement components are commonly made from certain stainless steels, 304 and 316L being the most frequent. It also happens that some brands hold exclusive rights to use specific alloys in the production of its watches. Here's what you should know about steel.

Sincere (Re)Opens SHH Concept Store in Singapore SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey H Moser & Cie Sep 7, 2022

Sincere (Re)Opens SHH Concept Store in Singapore

With edgy decor that set it apart from a typical luxury-watch store of the period, the inaugural Sincere Haute Horlogerie (SHH) in Singapore’s Hilton hotel was one of the world’s first “concept” stores dedicated to high-end mechanical watches when it opened in 2005. After a run of well over a decade, the original SHH store closed in 2019, but the format has now made a comeback at Marina Bay Sands (MBS) casino complex. Located along a stretch of the mall dominated by watch and jewellery brands, the new SHH once again focuses on niche and independent brands. Its stable of brands total 19 and include Greubel Forsey, H. Moser & Cie., Laurent Ferrier, Parmigiani, and Ferdinand Berthoud. Reboot and revive Being amongst the first retailers in the world to offer brands that were then just startups but would go on to do great things – Sincere took on Franck Muller in 1992, Lange in 1995, Panerai in 1998, and F.P. Journe in 2000 – SHH was a logical progression of Sincere’s retail strategy in the early 2000s. “[SHH in Hilton] was meant to be a touch point for very fine mechanical watches and high end brands,” says long-serving Sincere chief executive Ong Ban, “At the same time, it was also a launchpad for what we thought were the future stars of the industry.” Projects like the first SHH helped established Sincere as one of the three biggest watch retailers in Southeast Asia, alongside Cortina Watch and The Hour Glass. But after several changes in ownership, S...

Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else Time+Tide
Cartier Tank better than anyone Sep 3, 2022

Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else

The Cartier Tank is hardly a watch lacking in high-profile endorsements. From Andy Warhol to Mohammad Ali and Fred Astaire to Steve McQueen, many great men have fallen for its square-jawed linearity, Roman numerals and cabochon crown that looks like an erotic police siren. But, let’s face it, the bad guys are always more interesting. … ContinuedThe post Hans Gruber in Die Hard wears a Cartier Tank better than anyone else appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty celebrates two decades of banging the drum Time+Tide
Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty celebrates two Sep 3, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty celebrates two decades of banging the drum

Luxury watches sold by fashion brands will always be fighting an uphill battle to be taken seriously by elitist watch enthusiasts, but after two decades the Louis Vuitton Tambour range has definitely made more than enough compelling arguments for its legitimacy. Between the Tambour Spin Time, the Spin Time Air Quantum, and the artisanal-focused Tambour … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Louis Vuitton Tambour Twenty celebrates two decades of banging the drum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Dan Henry 1975 is a diver that’s playful yet refined and costs under $300 Time+Tide
Sep 1, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Dan Henry 1975 is a diver that’s playful yet refined and costs under $300

While the last few releases from Dan Henry have focused on the post-WWI era of military chronographs, the micro-turned-major brand return to a more lighthearted spirit with their most “modern” watch so far - the Dan Henry 1975. While the concept of a diving watch rose throughout the 1950s and was popularised in the 1960s, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Dan Henry 1975 is a diver that’s playful yet refined and costs under $300 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

2022 Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph Hands-on review WatchAdvice
Audemars Piguet released Aug 31, 2022

2022 Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph Hands-on review

What we like: Dial design is a real head turner Beautiful bracelet with mirror finishGreat price point for a Swiss chronograph What we don’t like: Some may not like the thickness of the watch Scatches will show up easily on the bracelet The watch can wear big for wrist sizes smaller than 6.5 inches  Overall rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 8/ 10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 One of the most anticipated watches in 2022 has just been released, and Watchadvice has been given a chance to do a full in-depth review of it. The Tissot PRX Chronograph is the latest addition to the ever-popular Tissot PRX collection released last year.  The Tissot PRX was a revamp of the original PRX created in 1978. Back then, Tissot released the PRX in an emblematic design with an integrated case and bracelet. The model stood out for its timeless design and sleek slender appearance. Unlike this modern reinterpretation, the original model came in various dial colours and different case shapes.  The original Tissot PRX never had a chance to be in the limelight, as the model was released when Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak in 1972 and Patek Philippe released the Nautilus in 1976. Now, however, I feel like the Tissot PRX (40 205) is getting the undivided attention it deserves.  The latest Tissot PRX is a much-loved timepiece upon its release, with watch fanatics jumping on the bandwagon to get their hands on this piece. While the Tissot PRX is a fantastic watch an...

IN-DEPTH: The retro thrills of the Doxa Army are back in full production Time+Tide
Doxa Army are back Aug 29, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The retro thrills of the Doxa Army are back in full production

When Doxa released a ceramic limited edition of their legendary Army watch with Watches of Switzerland, we all knew it would be a matter of time before this thrilling design would be made available to the masses. While it’s expected that some production models will modernise reissues to some extent, the Doxa Army offers the … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The retro thrills of the Doxa Army are back in full production appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Aug 26, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack

Debuted just two years ago, the Streamliner was Moser’s first try at an integrated-bracelet sports watch and it was a success. With its distinctive case and bracelet, the Streamliner is very much a watch that caters to the tastes of today, which has unsurprisingly made it the brand’s bestseller. The latest in the line up, however, is a change in tone. With a dial that’s minimalist as usual, the Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack is unabashedly extravagant in 18k red gold from end to end, putting it in stark contrast with the uniformly steel Streamliners that came before. Initial thoughts The best part of the latest Streamliner is its design, which manages to blend several elements in a coherent manner: luxury, mechanical complexity, and of course simplicity. With this new launch, the Streamliner is finally available in gold. While all past models were in steel, the Streamliner Tourbillon is surprisingly attractive despite being so different. In fact, the case and bracelet are arguably made even more compelling in precious metal, since the material lends the watch both heft and elegance, while the glow of the rosy metal brings out the surface finish. In contrast to the extravagant case and bracelet, the dial is spare and contrasts well against the gold case. Coated in Vantablack, an ultra-black substance, the dial is sparsely furnished with plain hour markers and no minute track, making it the simplest amongst the Streamliner collection. That said, the rounded hands a...

The Delma Quattro is a deep-dive special with plenty of reef cred Time+Tide
Aug 25, 2022

The Delma Quattro is a deep-dive special with plenty of reef cred

Delma brings back the Quattro, originally presented in the 1980s and having garnered significant popularity in the US market, now upgraded with modern materials and an automatic movement. But the new Delma Quattro aims to be more than just a run-of-the-mill dive watch, with specs worthy of plenty of reef cred. No-nonsense diver’s layout Round features … ContinuedThe post The Delma Quattro is a deep-dive special with plenty of reef cred appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Explorer Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Explorer Guide Aug 23, 2022

Rolex Explorer Guide

The Rolex Explorer is in many ways the quintessential dressy tool watch from Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual collection - less flashy than the GMT-Master, less bulky than the Submariner, while still rooted, like those two models, in a history of adventure and discovery. While it has changed very little since the 1950s, today’s Rolex Explorer is the culmination of many decades of aesthetic and technical evolution, guided by a watchmaker for whom the subtlest details make all the difference in the world to its avid legions of fans. Underpinning the Explorer: Oyster Case and Perpetual Caliber The Rolex Explorer, like all Oyster Perpetual timepieces in Rolex’s Professional collection, is an expression of two technical milestones that Rolex and its visionary founder Hans Wisdorf contributed to watchmaking history. The first is the so-called Oyster case, developed in 1926, which revolutionized the construction of watch cases with its dustproof, waterproof, hermetically sealed structure, secured by a threaded caseback and a crown that screwed tightly into the case. In 1931, Rolex made history again with the creation of its first “Perpetual” movement (below), whose self-winding mechanism was driven by an oscillating rotor. The marriage of these two inventions gave rise to the “Oyster Perpetual” line of timepieces that remain at the heart of Rolex’s collection today, beginning with the Datejust in 1945 and coming to full fruition with the tool-oriented, yet still luxuri...

Orient Star Introduces the Diver 1964 2nd Edition SJX Watches
Seiko Epson Aug 19, 2022

Orient Star Introduces the Diver 1964 2nd Edition

Launched last year as a limited edition with a steel bezel insert, the Orient Star dive watch is returning as a regular-production model. Powered by an in-house automatic movement with the brand’s signature power reserve indicator – an uncommon but useful complication for a mechanical dive watch – the Diver 1964 2nd Edition will be available in two dial colours matched with an anodised aluminium bezel insert. A struggling, publicly-listed watchmaker until it was rescued by Seiko Epson in 2001, Orient is now a subsidiary of the printing giant. Primarily focused on affordable watches priced at several hundred dollars, Orient also offers more upscale models under the Orient Star label, which encompasses the Diver 1964 2nd Edition. Initial thoughts The new diver is essentially identical to last year’s limited edition, save for the dial and bezel insert. While the black dial doesn’t differ much, the green dial is a totally different look that’s a useful option for someone looking for something less plain. Because it has the same case as last year’s model, the 2nd Edition feels identical. It’s robustly constructed with a surprisingly solid bracelet. The feel in hand is definitely one of a “tool” watch. That said, the case is a thick 14.5 mm high, almost too thick with the 41 mm case. As a result, the watch feels bulky and top heavy. The Orient Star diver is comparable in quality to similarly priced Seiko Prospex dive watches, which means the value proposition...

Up Close: Franc Vila FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero SJX Watches
Aug 18, 2022

Up Close: Franc Vila FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero

Short for “Franc Vila Founder”, FVF is a tale of redemption. Founded by the namesake designer, FVF is the second act of the Spanish watch designer, one he embarked on after his first went off the rails as many independent watch brands tend to do. FVF’s inaugural watch is the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. It’s an original look and at a glance there’s nothing linking it to the creations of the original Franc Vila brand – a good thing in my estimation. But look closely and hints of the earlier designs emerge. Most importantly the FVF1 reveals itself as an impressively executed watch – the movement has an interesting construction, excellent finishing, and an original aesthetic. Mr Vila has made his comeback in style. NB: The watch pictured is a prototype that’s been worn so it shows wear. The FVF1 has a flying tourbillon, roller day indicator, day and night display, and a 100-hour power reserve Rising from the ashes Born in Valencia but now a longtime resident of Switzerland, Mr Vila founded his namesake brand in 2005 and rode the wave that buoyed modern, flamboyant independent watchmaking for the next decade or so. Propelled by Mr Vila’s convivial personality, Franc Vila became one of the hot brands of the era. During those heady days, it could sell several dozen tourbillons and minute repeaters a year, making it one of the top clients of now-defunct complications specialist BNB Concept. A classic from the original Franc Vila brand, the Tourbillon Planèta...

The Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax is a racing chronograph with retro swagger Time+Tide
Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax Aug 18, 2022

The Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax is a racing chronograph with retro swagger

The art of the vintage-inspired watch, especially when done by a young brand such as Baltic, is in honouring the allure of the past while remaining relevant to a modern audience. Nostalgia has always played a big part in human culture, but we must also accept that there is no stopping the flow of time … ContinuedThe post The Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax is a racing chronograph with retro swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Vacheron Constantin Aug 17, 2022

Panerai Watches Guide

Tracing its roots to the 19th Century but bursting on the cultural scene on the cusp of the 21st, Panerai is an overnight success more than 100 years in the making. From humble and very utilitarian beginnings as a maker of tools and instruments for military divers in the 1930s, the Florentine watchmaker has become a powerhouse in the luxury sector, its unapologetically militaristic and indisputably masculine designs blurring the lines between tool watch and luxury item like few brands before or since. Here is the story of Officine Panerai and an overview of the modern Panerai watch collections. Guido Panerai and the First Radiomir Giovanni Panerai opened his watchmaking shop on Ponte Alle Grazie in Florence in 1860, and with the help of his son Leon Franceso built it into the ancestral Italian city’s first retailer of Swiss watches as well as its first watchmaking school. When Giovanni’s grandson Guido took over the business, near the turn of the century - and acquired his wife’s family business, which made tools and hardware for military use, including combat sights, compasses and depth gauges - it had become essentially two companies: Orologerie Svizzera, the shop that sold prestigious Swiss watch brands like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Rolex; and Guido Panerai & Figlio, primarily a supplier of precision instruments and diving equipment to the Royal Italian Navy, or Regia Marina.  As a military provider, Panerai recognized the need early on f...

HANDS ON: The Horage Supersede is an indy GMT that overdelivers on expectations Time+Tide
Aug 15, 2022

HANDS ON: The Horage Supersede is an indy GMT that overdelivers on expectations

The watch space has arguably never been more exciting and this is largely due to the rise of independents and microbrands. To permeate through so many established brands, these smaller players know they need to deliver standout timepieces – whether through distinct aesthetics or exceptional value propositions. One independent that has definitely caught the attention of … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Horage Supersede is an indy GMT that overdelivers on expectations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Porsche Edition can talk to your car (assuming it’s a Porsche) Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Connected Porsche Edition can Aug 12, 2022

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Porsche Edition can talk to your car (assuming it’s a Porsche)

When car manufacturers and watch brands team up, the word ‘heritage’ gets thrown around a lot. It’s true that watchmaking and motorsport have gone hand in hand for decades and they have a lot of shared history to pull from, but it may also be that mechanical watches just can’t escape that rose-tinted prison of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Porsche Edition can talk to your car (assuming it’s a Porsche) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB347J “Noosa” Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SPB347J “Noosa” Seiko Aug 11, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB347J “Noosa”

Seiko is launching a new Australasian Limited Edition from the Prospex range that is inspired by one of the most stunning holiday destinations in Australia – Noosa in Queensland. The colourway for this timepiece is the seemingly always on-trend black and blue but adds popping bright yellow accents. The dial has a very subtle texture … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SPB347J “Noosa” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection Aug 9, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection

The ability to display two time zones on a single dial has cropped up quite a lot over the course of history, but it was rarely more than a niche curiosity before the advent of flying. Now, the idea of a pilot’s watch without a GMT complication feels somewhat incomplete, and that’s why the new … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The scream team - the top 5 evil looking watches Time+Tide
Ming ly always striving Aug 6, 2022

The scream team - the top 5 evil looking watches

Between associating themselves with moon landings and war heroes, watch brands are seemingly always striving for a sense of valour and achievement. Although there’s nothing wrong with that, the endless romanticism can get a bit tiring at times, and often the biggest relief is to see something go wildly in the other direction. Put on … ContinuedThe post The scream team – the top 5 evil looking watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Defy Skyline joins Chronomaster Sport as a “waiting list” model Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet these super-hot brands all Aug 2, 2022

Zenith Defy Skyline joins Chronomaster Sport as a “waiting list” model

It is kind of a shame that a barometer for the success of a watch reference is when it is not readily available to purchase at retail. In an era of “unobtanium” Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, these super-hot brands all have standard-production watches selling at a premium due to their lack of availability. … ContinuedThe post Zenith Defy Skyline joins Chronomaster Sport as a “waiting list” model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The Retter 22 channels the style of Vacheron’s iconic 222 Time+Tide
Aug 1, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Retter 22 channels the style of Vacheron’s iconic 222

It’s quite common for microbrand watches to become a competing list of specifications trying to undercut each other on price, with buzzwords thrown around that promise great water resistance, sapphire crystals and Swiss movements. It’s hard to blame them either, because watch enthusiasts can be easily swayed by these claims of unbeatable value for money, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Retter 22 channels the style of Vacheron’s iconic 222 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Inside the Patek Philippe Service Centre in Singapore SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Service Centre Jul 28, 2022

Inside the Patek Philippe Service Centre in Singapore

Patek Philippe is one of the most revered watch brands but an outlier amongst its peers in relying almost entirely on independent retailers to sell its watches. Of the hundreds of Patek Philippe points-of-sale around the world, the brand owns just three. But the converse is true for its after-sales service where the brand is almost entirely vertically integrated. Patek Philippe will soon own and operate ten service centres in key cities around the world, backed up with four of its own watchmaking institutes. The Geneva watchmaker does this to fulfil its pledge of being able to repair and maintain “all timepieces ever made by Patek Philippe since production began in 1839”. Consolidation and consistency In pursuit of a uniformly high standard of service across the world, Patek Philippe is in the process of consolidating its service network from a peak of 59 service centres worldwide, some of which were run by independent retailers, to just ten key locations. Amongst the regional centres are one each in Germany, France, and the United States, but most will be located in Asia – the brand’s biggest market – in China, Hong Kong, Japan, Taiwan, and Singapore. All of the ten will be run by Patek Philippe itself, or more specifically, its regional subsidiaries. The Singapore service centre, for instance, is run by Geneva Master Time (GMT), Patek Philippe’s subsidiary for Southeast Asia. GMT also has a smaller service centre in Bangkok, a necessity given that Thailand i...