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Zenith Introduces Nov 3, 2020

Zenith Introduces the Defy Classic Carbon

A line of sports watches that’s modern in style and mechanics, the Defy was previously available only in mostly traditional materials, namely titanium, ceramic, or gold. But the base model now gets an upgrade with the Defy Classic Carbon that has a carbon-composite case, and more interestingly, a bracelet entirely in carbon composite. Initial thoughts Carbon composites are desirable in engineering for their lightness and strength, which is why they are used in aircraft bodies and Formula 1 cars. In watchmaking the material is useful for its lightness, but even more useful for its distinctive look. It is widely used for watch case, and sometimes in movements, so it’s no longer as novel as it was. This isn’t the first carbon-composite case for Zenith; the El Primero Lightweight of 2013 claims that title, while the El Primero Defy 21 is currently in the catalogue. So the Defy Classic Carbon isn’t groundbreaking, but it does look good. The liberal use of carbon composite suits the design well, with the techno-organic random pattern of the composite going well the open-worked dial, resulting in a sporty, fresh look that’s the best amongst all of the base-model Defy watches. The version equipped with a carbon fibre bracelet looks best naturally, because of the coherent, unbroken aesthetics and also rarity – while carbon-composite case are common, an integrated bracelet in the material is rare. Weighing just 65 g with the bracelet – about half the weight of a si...

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Nov 1, 2020

Recommendations for six watches with more than just a tourbillon on Throwback Sundays

Not just any ordinary tourbillon equipped wristwatch, God forbid that a tourbillon can be allowed to be called ordinary, but one which feature the tourbillon and another complication. Double Whammy so to speak. Here is a list of six of the best when it comes to piling another complication over the grand tourbillon. From theRead More

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Ressence Type 5X – Warm Oct 29, 2020

New: the Ressence Type 5X – Warm up the Gentleman Driver in you (specs and price)

Ressence partners with Eugenio Amos, founder of Automobili Amos to create a new bezel design for their Type 5 which relates to the Lancia Delta Futurista.  Ressence Type 5X Short Pitch about the watch. Second 10th anniversary piece in the Ressence collection X. Limited to 40 pieces. Motoring focused creation related to the passage ofRead More

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Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo” Oct 29, 2020

Up Close: Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo”

Longines has a grand history in wristwatch chronographs, some of which has been translated into appealing modern remakes. Granted the remakes don’t have legendary movements like the 13ZN of old, but they are affordable and well designed. There have been many remakes – Longines is adept at churning them out – but the Heritage Classic Chronograph “Tuxedo” is perhaps the best in recent memory. Based on a 1940s watch in Longines museum, the Tuxedo chronograph gets it right, both in the broad strokes but also the finer details. Initial thoughts In many ways the Tuxedo chronograph is more of the same from Longines, another vintage remake that’s well done. That would make it competent but nothing outstanding. But the Tuxedo chronograph is arguably different, because it is more adept than earlier remakes in its details. At arm’s length the watch looks like a typical replica, a watch that has vintage design but the size and shine of a modern watch. It is obviously a modern watch, but the attention to detail in its design and construction make it obvious that the designers understand vintage watches. This, like any other remake, is not about originality or creativity. It succeeds or fails on how well the vintage design has been reproduced, while allowing for modern materials and features. By that measure the Tuxedo chronograph aces the test. The case, for instance, has two finishes – a polished middle and a brushed bezel – while the case middle is extremely narrow...

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Louis Vuitton Oct 29, 2020

Business News: LVMH Bags Tiffany & Co. at a Discount

Having recently ditched its takeover of Tiffany & Co. – citing looming US tariffs on French goods – LVMH has now done what many industry insiders long expected – clinching the deal at a lower price. The owner of Louis Vuitton and Bulgari will pay US$131.50 a share for the American jeweller, instead of the US$135 originally agreed. The discount is more modest than expected, slightly over 2%, which translates into savings of about US$400m, against a total deal value of about US$15.8 billion. The deal is expected to close in early 2021. Regardless of the price, Tiffany is an important addition to LVMH’s expansive stable of luxury brands. Although LVMH is the world’s largest biggest group by a large margin – its 2019 sales were €53.7 billion – it has a comparatively small presence in “hard” luxury, namely watches and jewellery. That segment now makes up less than 10% of its sales, but Tiffany will bulk it up significantly. In fact, the deal’s completion will mean that LVMH owns two of the three largest makers of branded jewellery – Tiffany and Bulgari.  

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Monochrome Apr 17, 2026

Watches & Wonders 2026: The New Czapek Antarctique Tourbillon, Dark Sector & Révélation Cosmic Blue

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Seiko Presage SRPF41J Oct 29, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J raise the bar with new and limited cocktail flavours

The Seiko Corporation, across its various brands, is known for making competitively valued watches with beautiful dials you cannot find from other brands – even at higher price points. The cocktail watches, as of late, have incorporated some gorgeous dial tones and textures, all of which are eye candy to the wearer and those who … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J raise the bar with new and limited cocktail flavours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Hermes Oct 25, 2020

Hermès New Watches For 2020 Featuring The Daringly Different Aaaargh! (Video)

Our friends at The Watches TV had a chance to see the Hermès watches for 2020 – and they (and we) were in luck to also hear from La Montre Hermès CEO Laurent Dordet. Host Marc André Deschoux goes through the new Hermès pieces one by one, beginning with the 2020 L’Heure de la Lune, the first version of which launched in 2019, which he thinks is "A super-hot watch.” Things go seriously wacky from there.

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Sarpaneva Oct 24, 2020

Up Close: S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin

Finnish independent watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva is famous for his frowning moon “face”, an instantly recognisable emblem of contemporary watchmaking. But he also makes more affordable watches under the S.U.F. Helsinki label, which recently launched the S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin, a cartoon watch that is seriously good. Created to celebrate the 75th anniversary of Moomin, a series of books and comics by Finnish author Tove Jansson, the Moomin watch is based on the S.U.F. 180, a fuss-free three-hander that’s inspired by vintage military-issue watches, but dressed up with a three-layer dial hand painted in multiple shades of Super-Luminova. Even in moderately low light, the dial glows in technicolor glory – that alone is worth the modest price of admission. Initial thoughts The S.U.F. Sarpaneva x Moomin is different and compelling, but easy to wear and put together notably well. Specifically, the dial and case are executed to a high level. The dial is three layers, and then hand finished and hand painted, while the case is a slim but robust construction that is finished skilfully. And the Moomin watch retailed for €5,000, or about US$5,900 – making it excellent value for money. The quality and detail of the dial – think of it as affordable metiers d’art – is especially outstanding for the price. Admittedly, Moomin has no particular resonance for me – and won’t for anyone who isn’t a fan of the comic – but the dial in itself is appealing. It’s qu...

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Cartier watches to her staff each Oct 22, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In celebration of the people behind the Time+Tide scenes, including our proofreader Jeff

Jeff Jenkins is the author of the last article published on Time+Tide, about a scandal engulfing Australia Post. It is his first-ever story on Time+Tide. In a nutshell, the CEO of Australia Post Christine Holgate gifted four Cartier watches to her staff, each worth around $3000. You can read more below. The point isn’t the story, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: In celebration of the people behind the Time+Tide scenes, including our proofreader Jeff appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Oct 18, 2020

Editorial: Plato, Eratosthenes, and the Impossibility of Being Objective

I recently had a wide-ranging conversation with a fellow collector during which the following question was raised: is it possible for one watch to be objectively better than another? While pondering this question, I was reminded of Euthyphro, a Socratic dialogue written by Plato.  The “TL;DR” version is this: Plato asks Euthyphro if he can provide a definition of piety. Euthyphro responds with a clear-cut example of piety, but Plato is unsatisfied. He responds that an example is not enough; he wants the underlying rules that define piety, those by which Euthyphro chose his example. So it is with watches. We can all point to examples of great watches, and to some extent we can defend these examples with some kind of justification. But it’s very difficult, if not impossible, to articulate a set of criteria that can be applied universally – a necessary precondition of truly objective comparison. But as an exercise, I think it’s worth exploring in what ways, specifically, watch collecting defies objective analysis so that we can understand the limitations of this way of thinking.  Defining objectivity Objectivity is, according to the Cambridge Dictionary, “the quality of being able to make a decision or judgment in a fair way that is not influenced by personal feelings or beliefs”. Objectively, there’s not much more to a watch than its size, shape, colour, materials, and functions. A lot of the criteria collectors use to make value judgements about watches ...

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Time+Tide Mar 9, 2026

New Louis Vuitton Escale Twin Zone & Escale Worldtime: Which would you pick?

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Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Oct 18, 2020

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton (Video)

The Watches TV visited Vacheron Constantin’s Geneva boutique to talk with the brand’s style and heritage director Christian Selmoni, who provided the story of the new Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton, which you can watch in this aesthetic five-minute video.

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TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 160 Oct 14, 2020

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 160 Years Limited Edition “Dato 45”

TAG Heuer continue to celebrate their 160th anniversary this year with the release of their latest heritage-inspired limited edition. This is a formula that has offered both surprise and delight to collectors around the world in 2020. With the release of several new references (which we have covered here, here and here) that not only … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph 160 Years Limited Edition “Dato 45” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Patek Philippe Oct 13, 2020

The Longines HydroConquest Green Review

It seems that the world of horology has been taken over by two trends over the past decade or so, blue integrated sports watches, and green dive watches. Every brand has been engaged in a cold war era arms race to produce the best of these two fads. An arms race that has been all but won by two global superpowers, Patek Philippe with their Nautilus have staked claim to being the kings of all things integrated bracelet. Rolex, raining supreme with their famed but now discontinued, Green Submariner, a behemoth of the industry aptly named, the Hulk. The industries lesser powers have been fighting to keep up with the demand and surge in popularity of the aforementioned icons. With that surge, and such low supply, the masses have flocked to pre-owned markets, the grey market, for the chance to pay near double the RRP and have the privilege of owning the most famous green dive watch. Thankfully, in an attempt to share in the hysteria, brands have rushed to offer their own versions of pieces like the Submariner Hulk, offering consumers viable alternatives in which to spend their hard-earned money. The Longines HydroConquest green, is one such alternative, but is it a true Hulk buster? or just another puny watch in a bright green suit? Editors note: The model reviewed in this feature is reference L3.781.4.06.9 the 41mm variant which is supplied on the green rubber strap. Other models are available for configuration, including 43mm case sizes and stainless-steel bracelets. No opini...

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Bulgari Aluminium Watches Oct 12, 2020

New Bulgari Aluminium Watches For 2020: The Past As A Roadmap To The Future

The two new Bulgari Aluminium models look a lot like their predecessors, which makes you realize how timeless the design is. They don't even look retro, highlighting the timeless quality of the original design. And the good news is that they are relatively affordable compared to other watches in Bulgari's collection. What else do these watches have going for them?

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Oct 11, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: The Albany Watches AMA Diver – a mother of pearl dial diver, with a $300USD price tag

Divers, the tough tool watches that become our best buddies on adventures, strapped on with a wetsuit as backup to a dive computer. All this sounds wonderful, though for those of you in lockdown they have an even more important task, which is to remind us of what will come, as well as adventures spent; … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Albany Watches AMA Diver – a mother of pearl dial diver, with a $300USD price tag appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Monochrome Dec 9, 2025

Neo-Retro Elegance: The New And Very Lovely Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Cloud Blue

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces Oct 2, 2020

Jaeger-LeCoultre Introduces the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Mariner Date

Modelled on a 1960s diver’s alarm wristwatch, the Polaris was revived in 2018 as a full-fledged collection of watches ranging from time-only to chronograph. Now Jaeger-LeCoultre adds two more to the line up: the Polaris Mariner Memovox and Polaris Mariner Date. Looking very similar to each other, both share the same a gradient-blue dial but are distinguished in function; the Memovox is an alarm while the Date is a three-hand base model. Polaris Mariner Date (left), and Polaris Mariner Memovox Initial thoughts Probably because it manages to be sporty and slightly retro at the same time, the gradient (or fumè or smoked) blue dial is being used once again for a Polaris dive watch, not long after the similar-looking limited edition for the American market. And it’s worth noting that the three-tone blue dial takes inspiration from the Memovox “Snowdrop” of the 1970s. In short, the look isn’t novel, but it is a good one. And a few tweaks have been worked in to help it stand out, most obvious with the use of orange accents. The new Memovox on brand ambassador Benedict Cumberbatch The Polaris Mariner Memovox Although both watches have been updated in design and upgraded in functionality – water resistance is now 300 m instead of 200 m – they are beset by a sharp increase in price. For instance, the new Mariner Memovox alarm watch costs about 40% more than the equivalent limited edition of 2018. And the Mariner Date costs a bit over US$11,000, while the standar...

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Casio G-SHOCK GRAVITYMASTER – watches Oct 2, 2020

New Casio G-SHOCK GRAVITYMASTER – watches for Aviation Professionals

Casio introduces an all-new model to its popular G-SHOCK Master of G collection of men’s tactical watches. Designed with aviation professionals in mind, the GRAVITYMASTER, GR-B200 boasts three colorways with a unique Carbon Core Guard construction, carbon-infused resin bezels and resin bands in black (GR-B200-1A), orange (GR-B200-1A9) or blue (GR-B200-1A2) to provide elevated strength and durability in lightweight cases.

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Panerai Introduces Oct 1, 2020

Panerai Introduces the Luminor GMT ION Singapore Edition PAM 1177

A limited edition created to mark the opening of the revamped Panerai boutique in Singapore – which is now almost a decade old, having opened in 2011 – the Luminor GMT ION Special Edition PAM01177 is a variation on the standard-production PAM01033. Featuring a 44 mm case, it’s accented in red, the key colour of the Singapore national flag, and bears the island nation’s emblem on the case back. Initial thoughts The highlight of the new Luminor GMT are aesthetic tweaks – although Panerai is doing a red crown for the first time here. It is not majorly different, but the design is on point for a sports watch, with the red elements easily blending in without disrupting the typical clean style of the Luminor. Despite the simplicity of the colour palette, it manages to stand apart from most current sports watches because it avoids being blue, the colour that’s all the rage now. And it is very much a contemporary Panerai in style, doing away with the heavily-traditional designs of the brand’s historically-inspired models. With the tweaks being modest, it is priced reasonably as such things go. This costs S$13,850, about 7%, or S$900, over the standard PAM01033. But it’s worth keeping in mind the P.9010 inside the ION edition is a noticeably simpler movement than the P.9011 found in the PAM01033, lacking the power reserve indicator on the back for instance. Overall, it is a good-looking sports watch, though the simpler movement is a bit of a downer. Singapore deta...

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Longines unparalleled history Sep 29, 2020

Rewriting History – Discovering the Earliest Flyback Chronograph Wristwatch

As a collector, I find myself in the rather sparsely populated niche of observatory chronometers. Due to Longines’ unparalleled history in precision timekeeping, the brand became a long-standing, personal favourite. Notably, competition chronometer movements, like the 30B with its off-centre construction and the rectangular 360, strike all the right chords with me. Along the way, I inevitably bumped into Longines’ outstanding in-house chronograph calibres – in chronological order, the 13.33Z, 13ZN, and 30CH – which opened a new door away from my focused, chronometer-centric journey as a collector. And it also led me to a discovery that rewrites horological history, one that gives Longines the title of having produced the very first flyback wristwatch chronograph, as well as the first chronograph wristwatch with two pushers. A catalogue page showing various Longines chronograph movements in the 1930s, with the topmost pair being for wristwatches, and the others for pocket watches 13.33Z Though Longines had produced several remarkable wristwatch chronograph movements, a two-pusher flyback chronograph powered by the 13.33Z had become the object of my desire. A watch that was only produced in minuscule quantities and remains largely unknown to even the most discerning of collectors, with only eight examples known the market. A long and winding quest ensued that ultimately resulted in the opportunity to acquire an exceptional example from a private collection in German...

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Sep 29, 2020

Business News: Watches & Wonders 2020 Opens (Again) in Sanya

Having scheduled for Geneva in April and then cancelled, Watches & Wonders (W&W;) then went online, and in a last minute decision, an actual fair in Shanghai’s West Bund Art Center. The surging demand for luxury watches in China as it emerges from the pandemic meant the inevitable success of W&W; Shanghai – which our correspondent outlined earlier this week – which is why the fair is happening again in China, this time in the resort city of Sanya. Opening barely a month after the close of the Shanghai event, W&W; Sanya takes place from September 29 to October 31 in the massive CDF Mall – a full month inside the world’s largest duty-free shopping centre. Importantly, W&W; Sanya is catered to the retail consumer instead of the traditional fair audience of watch retailers and journalists. Shopping paradise A city on the southernmost tip of Hainan island, which is known for its tropical weather and beaches, Sanya is the rapidly-growing capital of duty-free shopping in China. The Chinese government has announced plans to develop duty-free shopping on Hainan, which is already has already enjoyed a massive uptick. From the start of July to mid-August 2020, the CDF Mall recorded sales of over RMB5 billion, or over US$730 million, from over 740,000 customers. Open to the public daily, W&W; Sanya was conceived to cater to this demand. Eleven brands are taking part in the event in the CDF Mall, which, at 750,000 square feet or 72,000 square metres, is the world’s largest duty...

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Time+Tide Sep 10, 2025

New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin watches: Which would be your pick?

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Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 Sep 27, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 might be the most stunning tourbillon of the year

In a year of great horological heights, Glashütte Original is once again pushing for the summit with the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 limited edition. This comes after a succession of eye-catching 2020 releases, featuring some of the best dials in the business, and fascinating top tier versions of their vintage perfect diver SeaQ, which made … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Glashütte Original Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 might be the most stunning tourbillon of the year appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Richard Mille Introduces Sep 25, 2020

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 27-04 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal

Conceived for the 10th anniversary of the partnership between Richard Mille and Spanish tennis champion Rafael Nadal, the RM 27-04 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal is an ultra-light, ultra-exotic, and ultra-expensive mechanical wristwatch. Equipped with a hand-wind movement suspended on a dense network of steel cables within the case, the RM 27-04 has the greatest shock resistance of any Richard Mille wristwatch, or about 12,000 g. And its case is carbon composite, which combined with the skeletonised movement, means it weighs as much as a few sheets of paper. Initial thoughts While the recent RM 72-01 chronograph went in a different direction than usual for Richard Mille – it’s equipped with a new, in-house movement with an unusual, double oscillating pinion construction – the RM 27-04 is very much in keeping with the brand’s spirit. Mr Nadal’s nickname is engraved on the side of the case The RM 27-04 is a more extreme version of what Richard Mille has done before, with more cables, more skeletonisation, and more advanced composites. And it is also US$1 million, give or take. Judged by what the brand does, the RM 27-04 is a successful product in concept and execution. But more broadly speaking, Richard Mille has been all about such watches for several years now, so the RM 27-04 doesn’t feel that exciting or interesting. Strung like a racquet Weighing just 30 g including its strap – equivalent to about six sheets of A4 paper – the RM 27-04 takes the cable-suspension...

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Piaget Introduces Sep 25, 2020

Piaget Introduces the Limelight Gala Automatic

Originally a watchmaker, Piaget made its first foray in jewellery in the mid-20th century (which was also the period it debuted its ultra-thin movement, a feat Piaget has since surpassed by a large margin). One of its signature jewellery timepieces is the Limelight Gala, a quirky but elegant watch available only with a quartz movement, till now. Piaget has finally unveiled a mechanical version that preserves the same asymmetric style, the Limelight Gala Automatic. Initial thoughts While evening watches are often conveniently conceived as pick-up-and-go quartz accessories, a mechanical alternative is an intuitive addition to the line given the growing appreciation for old-school watches. Even though the cal. 501P inside the new Limelight Gala is a razor-thin movement of the likes found in the Altiplano automatic, it is small enough for a 32 mm case, larger than the traditionally-tiny norm for evening wear but still agreeable. The larger size, as well as the fact that the cal. 501P is a workhorse movement, making the new Limelight suitable as a daily-wear watch. That said, the cal. 501P is a workhorse – it’s also found in the entry-level and sporty Polo S – which means it doesn’t seem upscale enough for the higher-end versions of the Limelight, which costs a little over US$50,000. The new Limelight Gala is priced steeply, starting at from US$35,000 for the base model with a diamond-set bezel. The quintet The new mechanical Limelight Gala is largely similar to its qu...

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Rado Captain Cook now comes Sep 17, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook now comes with three interchangeable straps and we hope this is the future

Every now and then you’ll come across something that makes you think, “Why doesn’t everyone do this?” This was what came to mind when I was considering the Rado Captain Cook with interchangeable straps, which offers a pretty practical solution to the limited versatility of a watch that only comes with one bracelet or strap. … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Rado Captain Cook now comes with three interchangeable straps and we hope this is the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions Sep 14, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions sure are nice, and if you ain’t RedBar you can’t buy ’em (for now)

Frederique Constant has updated and overhauled their Highlife line, which was originally created more than 20 years ago to bring a high-value horological offering to the consumer. Standard production models of this new lineup were recently launched in steel, gold-plated, and two-tone steel and gold-plated models - in both time and date only (Automatic COSC) and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions sure are nice, and if you ain’t RedBar you can’t buy ’em (for now) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Fratello Aug 11, 2025

A Closer Look At The Citizen Series 8 Ice-Blue Limited Edition

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