Hodinkee
Hands-On: Cartier Brings Back The Tortue – Monopusher Chronograph And All
A well executed update to one of its oldest shapes, complete with a new monopusher chronograph.
Results for Cathedral Hands
3,880 articles · 367 videos found · page 84 of 142
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5164G
It’s no “blue steel,” but the Aquanaut remains undefeated when it comes to elegant travel complications.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On With the Grand Seiko SBGC275, with a Dramatic Red (but Sometimes Orange) Dial
Something we find ourselves saying a lot: these pictures don’t do justice to this watch. These pictures, by Kat Shoulders, are excellent, of course, but because they only capture a single moment in time, they miss an important element of drama in the dial of Grand Seiko’s new SBGC275. The new Spring Drive chronograph GMT has, at a glance, a pretty brilliant red dial. But thanks to a new process, the color changes, and I mean really changes, when it’s seen at an angle. It’s actually uncanny, and not merely the common experience we’ve all had of seeing the range in tone on a colorful dial as it’s seen in different lighting conditions. It makes a watch that would otherwise feel like “just another variant” something a little more substantial in the Grand Seiko catalog. Grand Seiko achieves the effect of a color-changing dial with something they call “Optical Multilayer Coating,” which is described by the brand as a physical vapor deposition process. This process results in Multiple layers of a nanoscale film adhering to the dial which allow for the shifts in how we perceive the color. From head on, it looks dark red. But if you start to tilt the dial a bit the tone becomes lighter, and will appear as orange as a Doxa Professional if you turn it just right. The moment where it noticeably changes is an incredibly cool thing and even harder to describe than it is to show in still images. It’s not really a gradual shift, like you’d expect. One second the ...
Monochrome
Hands-on – A Statement in Style… the AP Royal Oak Chronograph 41mm in Yellow Gold
In 2022, Audemars Piguet unveiled a plethora of new Royal Oak models to commemorate the 50th anniversary of this iconic line. Among these releases stood the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 41mm reference 26240, adorned, like other anniversary automatic editions, with a special rotor sporting a prominent 50 logo. However, by 2023, these gave way to regular models […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Latest Addition To The TAG Heuer Glassbox Adds A Panda Dial And Bracelet To The Carrera
A new Carrera that's equal parts heritage and modern.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: How Long Would It Take To Tell The Time Backwards On The Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind? Only Time Will Tell, If You Ever Can Tell The Time.
Cartier has gone backward in time, or at least in time-telling, with one of their strangest releases.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Cartier Tank Mini Keeps Small Watch Fever Burning
Honey they shrank the tank!
![[Video] Hands-On Impressions of the New Rolex Novelties](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2024/04/Rolex_Novelties_14.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[Video] Hands-On Impressions of the New Rolex Novelties
Rolex always seems to be the talk of the town during Watches & Wonders. It’s the first booth everyone flocks to on Day 1 at 8:30am when the curtains come up. It’s quite the site to see actually. We at Worn & Wound can’t deny the effect the Rolex releases have on not only watch enthusiasts but the entire luxury world. THIS is what people are waiting for. Well the question of the day is..was the wait worth it this year? I had a sneaky feeling that this would be sort of a mild year for Rolex. They did so much last year at Watches & Wonders with the new Daytona collection, the Emoji Day-Date, and of course the Gumball Oyster Perpetual. That’s a lot to top. Even though I got the sense that most people were underwhelmed with the releases this year, I was very excited to have my first ever appointment with Rolex at the show to get hands on. I got to spend about 40 minutes with all the new releases and I’ll be honest, I think they’re great. The watch that really struck me and I personally feel is the strongest release for Rolex this year is the new Perpetual 1908 in Ice Blue. The dial was absolutely mesmerizing and features what Rolex calls a guilloche rice-grain motif. I often hear from the watch community that Rolex is sometimes too simple or just doesn’t “wow”. I think anyone would have a hard time picking up this watch and not being impressed by the level of finishing it has. Cased in 950 platinum, the watch also features the calibre 7140 which of course ho...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New Hand-Wound IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Day & Night, A Fun Story Of How One Small Idea Can Turn Into Something Much Bigger
One of IWC's most interesting watches of 2024 was a watch that stood alone among the collection.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New Grey And Black Rolex GMT-Master II In Stainless Steel
Sure, it's "just another GMT," but more options aren't a bad thing.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Patek Philippe 5330G World Time That's A Low-Key World First, Too
A modern take on an old-school complication.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Sure, Nobody Asked For A (Nearly) Solid-Gold Rolex Deepsea. Yes, It's Ridiculous. But I Sure Ain't Mad They Made One.
It's nearly 320 grams of gold (and some titanium), it has a blue lacquer dial, and I desperately, desperately want to go diving with it.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The 18k Gold Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight On Bracelet Is (Almost) The Precious Metal Tool Watch I Have Been Asking For
I asked for a BB54 in yellow gold, but Tudor decided on a BB58 instead.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Rolex Perpetual 1908, Now In Platinum With A Guilloché Dial
After introducing a new dress watch collection last year, the 1908 feels more grown up.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: IWC Combines Their Core Design Language With An Updated Case In Their New Portugieser Perpetual Calendar
The brand uses every possible millimeter of space to bring us a new Portugieser with a movement that keeps going, and going, and going – just what you want in a perpetual calendar.
![[VIDEO] Hands-on Impressions of the Beautifully Slender Grand Seiko SLGW002 and SLGW003](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2024/04/GS_NEW_NOVELTIES_01.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Hands-on Impressions of the Beautifully Slender Grand Seiko SLGW002 and SLGW003
Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 series has, since its inception, been a collection that has veered toward the sporty. The outright sports models are commanding in their wrist presence for sure, but even the “standard” Evolution 9 watches have a robust quality to them that makes them ideal daily drivers. Now, for Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko has introduced an all new branch of the Evolution 9 collection with a pair of watches they have specifically identified as being in the dress category: the SLGW002 and SLGW003, featuring the all new manually wound 9SA4 caliber. The cases, crafted in rose gold for the SLGW002 and Brilliant Hard Titanium for the SLGW003, measure 38.6mm in diameter and 9.95mm tall. The lines of the case recall other watches in the Evolution 9 collection (these watches still have a ton of wrist presence thanks a wide stance and clearly executed facets) but are more refined overall. Also, like other Evolution 9 cases, these wear as if the center of gravity is lower, and the watch plants satisfyingly on the wrist, and especially in titanium it feels very ergonomic. The big news here though is the new movement that allows for such a sleek rendition of the Evolution 9 principles. The 9SA4 caliber is effectively a hand wound version of the 9SA5, Grand Seiko’s next generation high beat rate movement with their proprietary dual impulse escapement. But Grand Seiko has done more than simply strip the 9SA5 of its winding rotor. Much of the gear train has...
![[VIDEO] Hands-On with the New Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2024/04/TUDOR_BB58_GMT_04.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Hands-On with the New Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT
Among the Tudor novelties this year is a watch that many enthusiasts and fans of the brand have been clamoring for for years: the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. Since the moment the Black Bay 58 was released in 2019, the “put a GMT on it” crowd has loudly and frequently suggested that the travel friendly complication be added to the vintage inspired diver. Endless renderings shared across forums and social media over the years have suggested what the watch might look like, and now it’s here. The new Black Bay 58 GMT is pretty much exactly what you would expect: the classic 58 form factor with a 39mm case, slightly domed black dial, gilt accents, and a classic burgundy and black “Coke” style 24 hour bezel. There’s an unframed date window at 3:00, and the watch is mounted to a three-link “rivet-style” bracelet or a rubber strap, both of which are mated to a T-fit clasp for easy on-the-fly adjustment. The question comes up almost as soon as you realize what you’re looking at: how thick is it? After the Black Bay Pro was unveiled two years ago, the conversation focused on the watch’s proportions, with many insisting the 14mm thick case was just too chunky. For the 58 GMT, I don’t think anyone will realistically be able to make the same claims. The case measures a very reasonable 12.8mm tall, and has the same gentle curves as the 58 we’ve known for years. On the wrist, the Black Bay 58 GMT wears incredibly well, which is what you’d expect given the clas...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph
Perhaps unsurprising given Cartier’s track record with the Privé collection, the jeweller has revived its popular single-button chronograph – but with an all-new movement. The Cartier Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph is a manual-wind chronograph powered by the cal. 1928 MC, a form movement conceived for the watch. Making its debut well over a decade after the discontinuation of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP) version, the new Tortue Monopoussoir is slightly larger than its predecessor, but also thinner and more elegantly proportioned. While the cal. 1928 MC inside is new – the movement is notable in itself – the aesthetic is more vintage inspired, particularly on the yellow gold version; the other version is platinum. The cal. 1928 MC Initial thoughts Although relatively straightforward in concept and design, the Tortue Monopoussoir is executed well. Although the visuals are faithful to the vintage originals, especially with the yellow gold version, the watch feels contemporary because of the size. At just over 10 mm high, the proportions of the case are excellent. It feels elegant and neither too big nor too small. And it is surprisingly thin for a chronograph, which is especially appealing. Relatively to its predecessors, the new Tortue Monopoussoir sits in between: larger than the first CPCP version, but smaller than the CPCP XL model, making it just right. Between the yellow gold and platinum models, the former looks most like the 1928 origin...
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Fears Redcliff 39.5 Date
The date: 3 November 2016. The place: Saatchi Gallery, London. The Fears watch company is relaunched by Nicholas Bowman Scargill in a story that most Fearsfans are now familiar with. The watch that relaunched Fears was not the popular and archetypal Brunswick, but the Redcliff Date. This quartz watch made use of the now-familiar ‘Pipette’ motif but was an altogether more everyday watch compared to the dressier Brunswick that followed a year later and catapulted Fears to success. In late February, Fears launched an update to the Redcliff line and, to differentiate it from that original model, named it the Redcliff 39.5 Date. Nicholas was kind enough to show the range to me in a London pub just before release, and even with dingy lighting it was clear that the quality and attention to detail were present. I have now been able to spend a little more time with the Pewter Grey in some lighter surroundings, though my initial impressions remain fairly unchanged. Is this a watch for every occasion? Jumping straight to the dial, I think this Pewter Grey is the best of the bunch. The Raven Black is probably more versatile. The Cherry Red makes a strong first impression. The ‘boutique only’ Mallard Green is a subtle gem. However, the Pewter Grey is a rich amalgamation of the best parts of each. The strong vertical brushing of the dial changes the shade from a bright and shimmering silver to a more brooding slate grey. I have to say I prefer the dial at its lightest in bright ...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Self-Winding Flying Tourbillon Openworked In Sand Gold Has One Neat Trick That Everyone Loves
Who ever said beige has to be bland?
WatchAdvice
Hublot Big Bang Integrated Blue Indigo Ceramic Hands-On Review
What We Love: Indigo blue is stunning to look atThe ceramic Bracelet is well-executedFeels like a toy on the wrist but in a great way What We Don’t: Ceramic is resistant to scratches but has the potential to chipThe date wheel can blend into the movement at timesTaking links on/off to adjust the watch will be challenging Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 9/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 9/10Build Quality: 8.5/10 When I think of Hublot, one of the first things that comes to my mind is the Big Bang, followed by the Hybrid rubber strap they pioneered back in 1980, which the brand is famous for. So, when I got the chance to test out the Big Bang in Blue Indigo Ceramic, I was excited because I got to try out a watch that doesn’t look like a Hublot but is still very much a Hublot. Big Bang was first released in 2005, which paved the way for the brand and its collections, such as Classic Fusion and Spirit of Big Bang, and has now evolved into highly complicated timepieces and material experimentation. Fifteen years later, in 2020, Hublot introduced its first-ever integrated Big Bang, and in 2022, released during watches and wonders, the world saw four unique Big Bang Ceramic monochrome colourways. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) Blue Indigo, Sky-blue, Sand Beige and Jungle green represent the elements of water, earth and wood. An indigo blue from the Majorelle Garden, the streets of Chefchaouen in Morocco, and the Blue City of...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Pink Gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak That Turned A Devout Yellow Gold Loyalist Into An Equal Opportunist
Our Style Editor explains how this pink watch became the exception to her yellow gold only rule.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Tissot PR516 Mechanical Chronograph Makes Its Case As The Best Chrono Under $2,000
A hand-winder with heritage.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Spending Some Quality Time With The Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve
A faithful reimagining of a 1959 heritage design, outfitted in a throughly modern color palette of warm grey and rose gold.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: Gold And Titanium Meet With The 38mm ‘The Citizen’ LE – A Most Surprising Watch
Citizen does what it does best with this limited edition… and then it does some more.
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands On With The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar
IN PARTNERSHIP: Zenith has gone back to their vintage roots with a faithful re-creation of the intended design from the 70’s, and we’ve road-tested it to see if the 1970’s works in 2024! What We Love Vintage styling that doesn’t look out of place todayPracticality of the chronograph and calendar functionsThe subtle green colour that’s not in your face What We Don’t The 38mm size is a touch on the small sideLeather strap could be more detailed to suit the watchThickness when compared to the case size with the raised lugs Overall Rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7.5/10Design: 8/10Build quality: 9/10 Zenith came out of the blocks strong for 2024 where at LVMH Watch Week in January they went strong on their Chronomaster line. Part of these launches was the re-introduction of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar in three colourways, which we covered here. The commentary and feedback from these releases were overall positive, especially amongst the collector community where vintage and sub 40mm pieces are received incredibly well. Just look at the below Instagram post from ChampsG with the comments on this. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Chamath Gamage (@champsg) So when we agreed to do this hands on review, I was curious as to how I would like the green boutique edition, as quite frankly it’s not a watch I would generally gravitate towards – the Chronomaster Sport is a little more my style. But that’s what I love about havi...
SJX Watches
Hands On: The Longines Conquest Chronograph 42 mm
Longines facelifted the Conquest Chronograph last year, giving it more vintage flavour while retaining the sporty style of its predecessor and also the slightly-too-big case. The new look is reminiscent of a more famous sports chronograph, but compared to its predecessor, the new Conquest is more coherent. Initial thoughts At a distance, the Conquest Chronograph bears a striking resemblance to the modern Rolex Daytona, which is unsurprising given the commercial success of the Cosmograph (hence Zenith’s Chronomaster Sport as well). But in the hand it is clearly a larger, chunkier watch than its famous rival, and upon closer inspection, the dial design is also distinct with several interesting details. The previous Conquest tried to be different and ended up being too much. That design was characterised by an oversized “12” that was recognisable but not sophisticated. Although the resemblance to the modern Daytona is apparent at a distance, the dial gets more interesting up close (and also gives off some Paul Newman vibes). The new Conquest has a cleaner dial design with a slightly retro style thanks to a sector-like chapter ring. It does without a date, something purists will approve of. Although all four dial colours share the same design, two stand out. The champagne dial is a unique colour for a sports chronograph in this price segment, while the silver dial has just the right amount of red accents, with the red-outlined luminous squares being particularly interest...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New Bulova Lunar Pilot Meteorite Edition Reminds Me Just How Important This Watch Is
NASA and the Lunar Missions are not all about the Speedmaster and this new LE celebrates that in a big way.
Worn & Wound
Hands-On: the Nodus x Raven Trailtrekker
“Whoa, this thing is cool” is what I found myself speaking out loud upon opening up the box for the newest collaboration between Nodus Watches and Raven Watches - two forces in the microbrand community that have a solid history of putting out some really great watches. The real question is, what happens when these two team up? Is this the initial meeting of superheros that eventually leads to the Avengers of the watch space? I’m in no place to make that call, but what I can confidently comment about is how this watch looks and feels on the wrist. But like any good saga, we could use a little back story. Nodus Watches are a team based out of Los Angeles, CA with a focus on providing premium timepieces that are durable and innovative, while supporting the rest of the watch community. Whether you’re attending one of their Intersect events that brings smaller brands and their customers together across the US, or checking out their other collabs as part of their Design Lab, there’s a lot to like about Nodus. Raven Watches is based out of Kansas and their timepieces are inspired by travel, adventure, and photography -- making for rugged, versatile timepieces that are built for the long haul. The inspiration behind the TrailTrekker is the perilous journey that many heartlanders from the midwest made from Kansas to California, the home states of each brand. Let’s take a closer look at this noteworthy collab. Case The 39.5mm case is perfectly proportioned for my 6...
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Nodus x Raven Trailtrekker
A collaborative and value-packed flyer GMT from two like-minded American boutique brands.