Hodinkee
Introducing: The Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale, Now On Matching Gold Bracelets
A high-end take on the alarm complication gets a bracelet to match.
Results for Plasma High-Tech Ceramic
3,324 articles · 339 videos found · page 84 of 123
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Grand Seiko SBGJ237 & SBGJ239
Two new high-beat GMTs with luminous bezels.
SJX Watches
Interview: Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot
Though he runs one of the world’s most high-profile watch brands, Ricardo Guadalupe is less flamboyant than many of his peers. But the 30-year veteran of the watch industry has grown the brand into one of the world’s ten biggest watchmakers measured by revenue, making him one of the most successful leaders in the industry. A longtime deputy to the larger-than-life Jean-Claude Biver – though he is now the boss, Mr Guadalupe still acknowledges his mentor often – he took charge of Hublot in 2012 after his former boss was tapped to run the watch division of LVMH. During his tenure, Mr Guadalupe not only continued Hublot’s sales growth, but also substantially expanded its manufacturing capability – a feat that is often overlooked and underrated. That was made possible in part by a career that has taken him from product development to manufacturing, allowing him to develop an all-encompassing grasp of the business, explaining how Hublot manages to produce both its own movements – and its own proprietary, bright-red ceramic. I spoke to Mr Guadalupe during LVMH Watch Week earlier this year, where he discussed his measured and practical approach to delivering consistently excellent performance and product, exemplified by the years-long evolution of Hublot’s signature Big Bang into the Integral. The interview was edited for length and clarity. You guys did a really good job with the new Big Bang Integral. It’s difficult doing a nice bracelet, but you managed it. ...
Hodinkee
In-Depth: The Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication 2020 (And The Future Of The Supercomplication)
JLC quietly introduces a new version of one of its classic high complications.
WatchAdvice
Ochs und Junior Annual Calendar Light Review
Watches are functional items and fashion items. In the age of “brand loyalty” created by big budget advertising campaigns, product placements, and the use of high-profile brand ambassadors and social influencers, how can you explain a manufacturer with zero branding or logos on any part of any piece in their entire range? Read on … Ochs und Junior was founded in 2006 in Switzerland. Their timepieces focus on simplicity instead of complication. Manufacturing around 130 watches per annum, they are able to offer each customer a personal sales experience and after-sales service directly from the CEO. They measure their growth in terms of quality, not quantity. Sales are direct only, and not through distributors or retailers. Ochs und Junior watches are developed by Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, the man behind some of the most awarded watches of the past 30 years. He was responsible for a number of Ulysse Nardin’s best-known watches, including the ground-breaking “Trilogy Of Time” astronomical complications, and the original Ulysse Nardin “Freak“. Oechslin is also the brains behind the amazing Türler astronomical clock (made for the 130 year old eponymous Zurich-based watch and jewellery retailer) which is a 2 metre tall, one ton monster that includes a planetarium and tellurium and even tracks the precession of the equinoxes – a period of 25,772 years. Oechslin’s passion and drive is in radical and technical mechanical simplification focussing ...
Deployant
Rolex Yacht-Master White Gold
The Rolex Yacht-Master in white gold is essentially a Submariner with a matte ceramic bezel, a larger case size - 42 mm instead of 40 mm, with a different text on the dial.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Tondagraphe Rose Gold Slate
A high complication from the best-kept secret in Swiss watchmaking.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01117, a watch guaranteed to last for the full term of your natural life
We often hear that mechanical watches last forever when given the love and attention they require. That’s part of the reason why they can command such high price tags, and even more in the long run when you factor in a service every five years, give or take. But really, we all know that a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01117, a watch guaranteed to last for the full term of your natural life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: Made to Fit – The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10
We bring you the low-down and our thoughts on the new Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10, offered in titanium, King Gold, and black ceramic.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected generation 3 is the Swiss and Silicon Valley doing what they do best, together
Certain expertise has always been found in specific parts of the world, creating hubs of creativity and technical innovation. So what would happen if you put the watchmaking nous of La Chaux-de-Fonds and the tech capability of Silicon Valley together into a watch? You get the TAG Heuer Connected watch, generation 3. The first generation … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Connected generation 3 is the Swiss and Silicon Valley doing what they do best, together appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Bespoke, baby! You can now build your own custom Bremont Martin-Baker
Watch customisation is now a field you can get into at high and low price points, but it’s still fair to say that going bespoke with a quality watch fit for the Ministry of Defence for example, is generally reserved for the upper echelons of independent watchmaking. And up at a price point where you … ContinuedThe post Bespoke, baby! You can now build your own custom Bremont Martin-Baker appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus in white gold with ghost grey dial is a total smokeshow
A. Lange & Söhne don’t always do things by the book. The year is 2019. The demand for steel luxury sports watches is at an all-time high. And along comes the brand’s brand new Odysseus model. The polarising design (with naysayers focusing on the thicc steel bracelet as a flaw) took the established trope of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A. Lange & Söhne’s Odysseus in white gold with ghost grey dial is a total smokeshow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Tuna S23631 & S23629 Dive Watches
I’m really excited to see a more classic silhouette behind the handset and pricing that isn’t entirely absurd; when you consider some of the previous Spring Drive and high-end automatic variants.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42
A new movement and case diameter for a classic high-complication.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Panerai Luminor Marina Fibratech 44mm (PAM01663)
Sustainable and tech-forward construction meets an old-school design.
SJX Watches
Piaget Introduces the Thinnest Mechanical Watch Ever
Piaget first introduced the Altiplano Ultimate Concept in 2018 as an exercise in pushing the limits of mechanical watchmaking – the thinnest mechanical wristwatch ever, at 2 mm in its entirety. Now the experimental creation has become reality at Watches & Wonders 2020, available as a wholly-customisable, special-order timepiece that’s still just 2 mm high – but accompanied by a staggering retail price. No stranger to ultra-thin watches – the brand debuted its first extra-thin movement, the 9P, in 1957 – Piaget already claimed the title of thinnest-mechanical-watch-on-the-market in 2013 with the 3.65 mm-high Altiplano 900P. Most of the tricks relied on to create that record-setting movement have been repeated in the new Altiplano Ultimate Concept and its cal. 900P-UC, but in more extreme form, with the new watch boasting five additional patents for features relating to the extra thinness. A sliver of cobalt alloy Notably, the case and main plate of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept are one and the same, a single piece machined out of cobalt-based alloy for strength – gold is too soft and might bend if strapped too tightly on the wrist. As in the 900P, the case functions as the main plate of the 900P-UC, revamping a layer from the movement and reducing the overall thickness of the watch. But despite being a single piece, the case and main plate can be specified with different finishes for contrast. For instance, the cobalt-alloy case can retain its natural colour wi...
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Santos de Cartier ADLC
After unveiling the glow-in-the-dark Santos Skeleton ADLC “Noctambule” last year, Cartier debuts the similar, but simpler, Santos de Cartier ADLC at Watches & Wonders 2020. The new Santos actually revives a look the brand first rolled out in 2009 with the Santos 100 ADLC, which was the brand’s first use of amorphous diamond-like carbon (ADLC) as a case coating. A nano-composite coating, ADLC possesses diamond-like properties, including high corrosion and scratch resistance, improving the robustness of the watch case. But like all coatings it can detach if the material below is dented or scratched deeply. All-black (left), or a combination of natural-finish steel and ADLC-coating Shades of black Like the Skeleton ADLC “Noctambule”, the Santos ADLC is available only in the largest LM case that’s 47.5 mm by 39.8 mm on the face and a height of 9.38 mm, making it a big but relatively slim watch. It is available in two iterations: all-black ADLC-coated steel, or two-tone steel with an ADLC bezel. While the case dimensions are identical to the standard Santos, the new models have a low-key matte finish. The bezel is brushed, instead of the mirror polish found on the standard model, with only the bevels along the edge of the case being polished. The steel model features a dark grey dial which matches the shade of the ADLC coating on the bezel. Though the dial is a single colour, it appears two-tone due to the surface finishing – vertical brushing on the inner dia...
Time+Tide
CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: Kevin Hart Vs. Mark Wahlberg, a Patek and Rolex-only battle for the ages
This week’s CWDM is going to be controversial and it’s going to be subjective. There’s no way around it. These guys are Hollywood’s high-end horologists. Their collections are pure class. So get ready for some of the craziest watches on planet earth and prepare for opinions, because we all have them, and when it comes … ContinuedThe post CELEBRITY WATCH DEATH MATCH: Kevin Hart Vs. Mark Wahlberg, a Patek and Rolex-only battle for the ages appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon
One of the more interesting complicated watches launched in 2019 was a surprising one, the Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon. While “Chronometer Tourbillon” might seem to be a pair of impressive words meaninglessly strung together as is often done for high-end watches, the Chronometer Tourbillon actually takes them seriously. Though the new watch doesn’t look particularly interesting – the design is handsome but conventional – it combines a particularly logical set of complications that were conceived for exact setting of the time, namely a hacking tourbillon with zero-reset carriage (and not just the seconds hand), and a minute hand that is set in discrete, one-minute steps. In fact, the Chronometer Tourbillon derived from the already sensible, but less fancy, Senator Chronometer that has many of the same time-setting functions. Though the Chronometer Tourbillon is an expensive watch by the standards of Glashütte Original, it is eminently sensible and smart from a technical perspective. And to prove that chronometric competence, Glashütte Original also tests the Chronometer Tourbillon to the German chronometer standard, DIN 8319, laid out by the country’s all-encompassing federal standards body. Testing takes place at the Sternwarte Glashütte, the town’s astronomical observatory, which was given a new lease of life by German watch retailer Wempe, which also has its own line of chronometer wristwatches. The process, however, is conduc...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Louis Vuitton Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon
Since Louis Vuitton acquired complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps (LFDT) in 2012, the trunk maker has made impressive strides in its haute horlogerie. The newly launched Tambour Curve Flying Tourbillon Poinçon de Genève encapsulates Louis Vuitton’s complicated watchmaking – confident, modern styling combined with a first-rate calibre. Granted, the Tambour Curve is pricey – US$250,000 pricey – but it is clearly catered for a specific consumer. That buyer wants an ultra-high end, contemporary, and slightly sporty watch, the type of watch found in the segment dominated by Richard Mille and Hublot. But Louis Vuitton has executed the Tambour Curve extremely well, creating an appealing – and importantly, cohesively designed – wristwatch that is more than just looks. The LV 108 movement inside was developed and made by LFDT, which is led by veteran watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, both of whom I hold in very high regard. Louis Vuitton long-term strategy in developing its watchmaking – essentially do it well and expensively – is demonstrated by the quality of the Tambour Curve. The brand could have gotten away with building a so-so watch, just because it is Louis Vuitton. But it didn’t, and the Tambour Curve exhibits a notable level of attention to detail in styling and craft. CarboStratum The Tambour Curve is a big watch with a streamlined, rounded form that is almost organic. Not only is the case round, its flanks are concave, whil...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Tissot Seastar 1000 Professional Limited Edition: Automatic Chronograph
New Tissot Seastar with a locking bezel, ceramic insert, automatic chronograph movement, beautiful blue dial... why aren't these on people's radar..?
Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Twenty~4 Automatic 7300 Vs. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15450: Comparing Two Watches With Integrated Bracelets And Diamond Bezels
Are you ready for fine high horology with a bit of glamour? Here are two of the more affordable and elegantly sporty models from two of watchmaking’s finest brands: Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Cornes de Vache 1955 in Steel
As modern, high-end chronographs go, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 is one of the most desirable, being a beautifully executed remake that’s faithful to the vintage original, while powered by an upgraded version of a well-regarded movement. The latest version of the Cornes de Vache 1955 has a steel case, making it even more unusual amongst high-end chronographs, which are almost always found in precious metal cases. As a result, the Cornes de Vache is now significantly more accessible – while retaining the retro design and excellent movement – at least by the standards of such watches. Cornes de vache French for “cow horns”, Cornes de Vache comes from the shape of the lugs, a slight variation on the better-known “teardrop” lugs. The inspiration for the watch is the ref. 6087, the brand’s first water-resistant and anti-magnetic chronograph that was in production from 1955 to the mid-1960s – and featured the very same “cow horn” lugs. Made in yellow or pink gold as well as platinum, the ref. 6087 is rare – only 36 pieces were produced over a decade or so. A vintage ref. 6087 “Cornes de Vache” in yellow gold that sold for 106,250 Swiss francs at Phillips in 2015. Photo – Phillips Like the vintage original, the modern-day Cornes de Vache was initially only available in precious metals: first in platinum, followed by pink gold, with the steel model only making its debut last year. It is worth noting that steel is used s...
Quill & Pad
Ikepod Megapod: Rebuilding A Niche Collection One Model At A Time
Ikepod has recently launched its second Kickstarter campaign with a new collection, the Megapod. Focusing on a three-hand dial with modern minimalistic details, the Megapod feels very much the descendent of the original Megapode collection and definitely fulfills the requirements for a solid, high-quality mechanical watch featuring incredible design at an affordable price.
![Up Close: Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Chronograph 40 mm](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/audemars-piguet-remaster-01-chronograph-review1.jpg)
SJX Watches
Up Close: Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Chronograph 40 mm
Rumours were percolating for some time that Audemars Piguet was going to unveil a vintage-inspired watch to mark the opening of its recently-finished, hairspring-shaped museum. But when the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph 40 mm was revealed, it was still surprising. In the metal, the “remastered” watch is appealing; it looks good and the execution is impressively high quality in all aspects. The dial in particularly is sharply done, with even the tiniest details done right. And the movement inside is modern – and looks modern – but is impeccably constructed. But at the same time, the watch is a bit thick, and also expensive. The [Re]master01 in steel and 18k pink gold The ref. 1533 As with many reissued or “remastered” timepieces, the inspiration for the [Re]master01 is a well-known and well-documented watch: the ref. 1533, a chronograph wristwatch produced in the 1940s. It was 36.5 mm in diameter, extra-large for the period, and a three-counter chronograph, instead of the two registers typical then. Only nine of them were made, three with two-tone, steel-and-gold cases. The archive photograph of the ref. 1533. Photo – Audemars Piguet Two examples of the steel-and-gold ref. 1533 were sold in recent years at Phillips auctioneers, both setting price records for the most expensive vintage AP chronograph sold at auction. The first sold for 305,000 Swiss francs in 2015 – going to the Audemars Piguet Museum – and the second, 384,500 franc...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Seiko Prospex LX Spring Drive Diver SNR029
Seiko produces a wide – really wide – variety of dive watches. Many are based on historical watches, with several of the high-end models in particular being inspired by the brand’s first 300 m dive watch of 1968. As a result, a good number of Seiko dive watches look pretty similar. When Seiko unveiled the Prospex LX line at Baselworld last year – the range is made up of six sports watches catered for air, land, and sea – the diver’s watch seemed, well, pretty similar to other Seiko dive watches. But the LX was not a typical range of sports watches, because it was designed in collaboration with Ken Okuyama, one of Japan’s most famous car designers – specifically, Mr Okuyama is best known for his work for Ferrari. The Prospex LX Spring Drive Diver SNR029 is a typical Seiko dive watch – it’s functional and solidly engineered, with a notably high quality of construction. But Mr Okuyama’s design adds a surprising degree of refinement to the design, which reimagines the retro style of the classical Seiko Hi-Beat diver of 1968 by sharpening the design and refining the details. Initial thoughts Seiko dive watches are highly regarded for their strong price-performance ratio at every level of the price spectrum. The Prospex LX Spring Drive Diver SNR029 is a mid-range model, more affordable than a Grand Seiko but more upscale than the base-model Prospex diver. In terms of functionality, fit and finish, the SNR029 scores highly. Legibility is excellent, Spring Dr...
SJX Watches
Ikepod Introduces the Megapod Automatic
After the successful launch of its debut line of quartz watches in 2018, the resurrected Ikepod has now unveiled the Megapod, a remake of the quintessential Ikepod design, but now with an automatic movement. As with its earlier quartz offerings, the Megapod is an affordable, crowdfunded project. Originally founded by Swiss businessman Oliver Ike and legendary industrial designer Marc Newson in 1994, Ikepod gained a cult following for its incredibly distinctive, organic-UFO design. But hindered by high prices and artsy marketing, the brand’s watches never really sold widely, leading it to struggle financially. Ikepod folded in 2006, before being revived shortly after and then going under again in 2012, when Mr Newson finally parted ways with the brand. The Megapod M001 with a blue, sunray-brushed dial In contrast, today’s Ikepod is all about the same signature aesthetic, but matched with affordability. Led by a three-man investor group that includes Christian-Louis Col, an old hand in the luxury goods business who was most recently sales director at glassmaker Lalique. Recognising that the main draw of Ikepod’s watches lay in the inimitable design, and not finishing or movements, the brand now relies on low-cost production: it assembles the watches in Hong Kong, using dials and hands from Taiwan and cases made in China. As with the initial quartz-powered models, the Megapod has a stainless-steel case in the original Ikepod shape. It is a tad larger than the quartz mo...
Time+Tide
London, New York, Paris, Tokyo: The limited edition Hublots that celebrate the big 4 cities
Hublot has decided to celebrate their love of Britain’s capital city in quite a literal way – by producing this, the Hublot Classic Fusion Special Edition London. Based on the standard Classic Fusion, the 45mm case of the new London edition features bespoke elements such as a polished black ceramic case, black satin-finished bezel and … ContinuedThe post London, New York, Paris, Tokyo: The limited edition Hublots that celebrate the big 4 cities appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The 2020 TAG Heuer Connected Watch Generation Three is the marriage of Switzerland and Silicon Valley that had to happen
The latest generation of the TAG Heuer Connected Watch has just been released and it represents a major and - practically everyone would agree - welcome departure from the tech and mindset of the previous two generations. Simply because it is now powered by Google Wear OS, which allows the Swiss to do what they do … ContinuedThe post The 2020 TAG Heuer Connected Watch Generation Three is the marriage of Switzerland and Silicon Valley that had to happen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Counterpoint: Double Wristing with a Smartwatch
Recently, Time+Tide put out an Instagram survey asking you, the reader, to express your opinion about wearing a smartwatch on one wrist and a mechanical watch on the other. I was really surprised to see the survey turn out heavily against this practice and here’s why … I like tech just as much as the … ContinuedThe post Counterpoint: Double Wristing with a Smartwatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.