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Sigma Dial

Two Greek σ flanking \"Swiss Made\" on 1973-80s vintage dials; certified solid 18k gold applied indices by APRIOR.
Berneron Complicates Things with the Quantième Annuel (Live Pics) Worn & Wound
Berneron Sep 12, 2025

Berneron Complicates Things with the Quantième Annuel (Live Pics)

The inaugural watch by haute Swiss independent Berneron, the Mirage 38, had a markedly poetic design. With a free-flowing case shape, twisting hands, and a distorted dial, it would be easy to consider it as a design of pure aesthetics. Looks deceived, however, as the form was driven by a movement concept that rejected the standard circular shape, allowing for a large barrel, and thus a 72-hour power reserve in a small and thin body. Nevertheless, the outcome was undoubtedly one of whimsy, where evocative design outweighed pure function, if there was a clever horological backing. Often, brands, especially young ones, stick to a theme to carve a niche for themselves within a crowded industry, but that’s not the approach of Berneron. For the brand’s second model, announced just before Geneva Watch Days, whimsy is nowhere in sight. Instead, the brand made a sharp turn into practicality and legibility, if through a decidedly haute lens. Titled the Quantième Annuel, it has a design that verges on the traditional, especially compared to the Mirage. The first model within their “quantième” collection, which will house their complicated pieces, the QA is an annual calendar jump hour with a design driven by logic in terms of how it is read, the movement architecture, and how it is set. The flow of the dial is meant to be top to bottom, left to right. Following that order, time is read hour, minute, second, and the day, date, and month. The hour is digital, as it is a jump ...

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Grand Seiko Adds a New Dress Watch with the 9SA4 Caliber to the Collection, Plus a New Tentagraph Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Adds Sep 11, 2025

Grand Seiko Adds a New Dress Watch with the 9SA4 Caliber to the Collection, Plus a New Tentagraph

Almost as soon as Grand Seiko released the SLGW002 and SLGW003 at Watches & Wonders 2024, we started to wonder what this new class of manually wound dress watch from one of our favorite brands might look like in different variants. This seemed like a natural platform for expansion, and we figured it was just a matter of time before we saw some alternative dial options and new metals. In the year and a half or so since Grand Seiko introduced these watches, and the 9SA4 caliber powering them, things have been quiet on the manually wound dress watch front. That is, until this week, when we finally got a peek at the new SLGW007, Grand Seiko’s first new launch with this case and movement since the big debut at Watches & Wonders last year.  While the most obvious update on the surface here is certainly the new dark blue dial, it’s actually the case itself that really has my interest. The SLGW003, you’ll recall, was crafted from Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium. This is a very cool material, for sure, but has a niche appeal in a classically styled dress watch like this thanks to its ultra light weight and the associations we all have with titanium and tool watches. The SLGW007 is in stainless steel, and I’m incredibly curious to see how this might change the character of the watch on the wrist. One would certainly expect it to be a bit heavier, but I imagine the finishing will also have a slightly different, perhaps more traditional look to it, at least in the con...

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Breguet’s Finest World Time Yet to Celebrate 250 Years SJX Watches
Breguet s Finest World Time Sep 11, 2025

Breguet’s Finest World Time Yet to Celebrate 250 Years

Breguet’s quarter-millennial celebrations continue with the Marine Hora Mundi 5555, a reprise of the unique piece created for Only Watch two years ago. The world time wristwatch now returns with a phosphorescent enamel dial – that is notably grand feu on sapphire crystal – and a case in “Breguet Gold”. While the attire is new, the Hora Mundi 5555 still retains the clever movement that has a world time function that is instantaneously switchable between two pre-set time zones and unique amongst travel watches. Initial Thoughts Breguet facelifted the aging Marine line starting about eight years ago, but the integrated bracelet design language still feels fresh, though arguably remains unproven compared to long-established peers in the luxury sports watch segment. The Marine Équation Marchante 5887, which introduced the new look, leaned heavily on its excellent movement – it’s perhaps the best equation of time complication yet made – as a crutch supporting an experimental design. More practical and simpler models followed; the Marine Hora Mundi is certainly practical but not simple. The Marine Hora Mundi 5555 is likewise powered by an impressive movement, and one incorporating a complication apt for a sports watch, but the watch also has a metiers d’art distinction with its enamel dial. That is unusual for a sports watch, but the Marine is an unusual sports watch. The enamelling itself is even more unusual, done on sapphire using phosphorescent pigments, ...

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Ressence and The Armoury Team Up for the TYPE 9 Scattering Sun (Live Pics) Worn & Wound
Ressence Sep 10, 2025

Ressence and The Armoury Team Up for the TYPE 9 Scattering Sun (Live Pics)

There’s something exciting about seeing two brands you admire collaborate, especially when those brands represent relatively different aesthetics, if shared sensibilities. So, when we heard that Ressence, the independent watch brand known for its unique ROCS dial displays and futuristic aesthetic, was teaming up with The Armoury, a traditional menswear retailer and tailor, our collective interest was piqued. And the result is, well, oddly exactly what one might expect: a more formal take on Ressence’s most wearable watch to date, the TYPE 9. Called the TYPE 9 Shattering Sun, it meets the two brands in the middle. The TYPE 9, which came out at the end of last year, is the smallest Ressence in diameter, and very thin at 39mm x 42.5mm x 11mm. Additionally, it’s one of the lightest at 39 grams for the head. Unlike other Ressences, it pushed the minute index from under the glass to an external bezel, which further compresses it visually. I reviewed that watch earlier this year and was taken with its wearability. It puts the unique aesthetic and dial display Ressence is known for into a form that would be easy to wear daily. Identifying this, the ever sartorially-savvy and horologically inclined Mark Cho, founder of The Armoury, took the TYPE 9 and remixed it to lean toward dress watch aesthetics, and, more importantly, work with a suit. The dial, originally in silver or teal, has been rendered in warm, copper-toned salmon with a subtle sandblast finish. The explorer-esque...

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Introducing: The Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5555 - Connecting Earth, Sky, And Sea In A Top-Notch Travel Watch Fratello
Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5555 Sep 10, 2025

Introducing: The Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5555 - Connecting Earth, Sky, And Sea In A Top-Notch Travel Watch

Breguet is on quite a streak in its 250th year of existence. The fifth release to celebrate the watchmaker is the Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5555. This limited edition of 50 pieces debuts in an 18K Breguet Gold case and shows an entirely new two-layer dial. Its two superimposed layers - one guilloché, the other […] Visit Introducing: The Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5555 - Connecting Earth, Sky, And Sea In A Top-Notch Travel Watch to read the full article.

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Papar Introduces the Cenote, their First Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Sep 10, 2025

Papar Introduces the Cenote, their First Dive Watch

As the world of dive watches continues to grow, it’s easy to get stylistically complacent. We see similar colors, dial and case design, and construction techniques. So when a dive watch comes along that looks out of the norm, it’s an exciting prospect. Cue the Papar Cenote, a first in the dive category for the upstart brand. Like their first watch, the Anillo GMT, the Cenote is an aesthetic break from the norm that challenges the conventions of the diver category. As a reflection of the brand and its founder Josh Blank’s roots in both the US and Mexico, The Cenote draws visual inspiration and its nomenclature from the cenotes of Mexico’s Yucatán. The octagonal titanium case features sharp angles and a 40mm diameter, and measures in at 47mm lug-to-lug with a 10.9mm thickness. A ceramic bezel insert offers functionality, and a sailcloth strap with a matching titanium buckle adds a final touch of cohesiveness to the design.  The dial, though, holds the Cenote’s coolest feature. The indices appear as cutouts, a crescent moon with end tips pointing up marks the 12 o’clock position, and the hour and minute hands are sharp triangles. The wow factor is more than just cool design, though: the indices change color over the course of the month, giving the Cenote a continuously dynamic appearance.  Two colorways are available for the Cenote, in a limited run of 100 watches. The first option, Rose Gold Titanium, features a starkly appealing combo of rose gold PVD coating...

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Meet The Tailor-Made Ressence × The Armoury Type 9 Scattering Sun Fratello
Ressence × Sep 10, 2025

Meet The Tailor-Made Ressence × The Armoury Type 9 Scattering Sun

It seems like Ressence’s Type 9 is in high demand, at least when it comes to limited editions. At the end of last year, Benoît Mintiens, the founder of Ressence, introduced the minimalist Type 9. With a 39mm case, it’s the brand’s smallest watch, and it comes with either an aqua blue or gray dial. […] Visit Meet The Tailor-Made Ressence × The Armoury Type 9 Scattering Sun to read the full article.

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Seiko Upcycles Leather for the Latest Presage SJX Watches
Seiko Upcycles Leather Sep 10, 2025

Seiko Upcycles Leather for the Latest Presage

Seiko adds a new limited-edition to its line of affordable dress watch with the Presage Classic Series Upcycled Leather Strap that sports knurled bezel, golden-brown gradient dial, and with a leather strap made from shoe leather offcuts supplied by Regal, a Japanese shoemaker best known for its leather dress shoes. Initial Thoughts Though strange on the surface, the Seiko Presage and Regal tie-up makes sense. Both are affordable, solid offerings in their respective segments, and also distinctly Japanese. Notably, Regal is launching the saddle shoes that produced the offcuts later this week. The watch itself is a good looking iteration of Seiko’s familiar entry-level dress watch. The bezel and smoked dial are a pleasing combination that set this apart from most Presage models. Seiko didn’t mention the impetus for this collaboration in press materials; I suspect geography was a part. Regal builds its top of the line shoes in the town of Morioka, near Morioka Seiko Instruments, the heart of Seiko’s domestic mechanical watch production. That proximity lends a lot of authenticity to the collaboration for me, and I wish it were part of Seiko’s messaging, though I understand most consumers don’t care. At the same time, Regal is little known outside Japan, but its shoes are a fixture in major Japanese department stores. The transient nature of leather straps is arguably a shortcoming in watches like the new Presage, or the Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon at the other en...

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A Hands-On Introduction To The New Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Power Reserve Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Power Sep 9, 2025

A Hands-On Introduction To The New Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Power Reserve

Hamilton’s Khaki Field line is the brand’s most popular and best-known collection. The outdoorsy watches are fan favorites and available in many variations. You can get a Hamilton Khaki Field in myriad sizes, with quartz, automatic, and hand-wound calibers, as well as with many dial options. But today, the brand introduces a new complication on […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The New Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical Power Reserve to read the full article.

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De Bethune Shrinks the DB25 Starry Varius SJX Watches
De Bethune Shrinks Sep 8, 2025

De Bethune Shrinks the DB25 Starry Varius

De Bethune narrows the diameter of the bestselling DB25 Starry Varius but broadens its horizons with an entrancing red-leaning-purple dial achieved by heating titanium. And it’s more than just a pretty face, the DB25xs Starry Varius packs one of the most advanced two-hand manual wound calibres on the market. Initial Thoughts A personal favourite of mine, the Starry Varius line is gorgeous, technically adept, and meaningfully customisable. De Bethune justifies this variant as representing the night sky after a volcanic eruption, and colour perfectly matches viral, and hauntingly beautiful, images taken after the Tonga volcano eruption in 2022. As a chronometry-focused movement that paradoxically lacks a seconds hand, I find the cal. DB2005 very interesting. I’d even argue it makes sense as the six-day power reserve paints it as an endurance timekeeper. It’s also more technically interesting than most of the – very finely decorated – three handers from younger independents, even if Be Bethune’s R&D; efforts have dwindled recently. Under A Sea of Stars The dials are mirror polished titanium, which De Bethune heat oxidises for colour. While the brand’s specific method is proprietary, the thickness of this oxide layer determines which wavelengths of light transmit back to the observer, and this Burgundy dial must have a thinner oxide layer than the brand’s typical blue. Next, artisans set dozens of tiny gold pins into the dial to marks starts, before a micro-mill...

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Hands On With The New TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer TAG Heuer Sep 6, 2025

Hands On With The New TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer

TAG Heuer has released a new look Carrera that is very different to the standard racing-inspired models. The Carrera Astronomer is designed to cast your eyes to the heavens with its new moonphase complication, and we’ve gone hands-on for a review. What We Love The dial design is unique and looks great Very easy to wear and comfortable 39mm size The Beads of Rice bracelet elevates this piece What We Don’t Lack of lume on the dial No micro-adjust on the clasp A date display could have added to the functionality Overall Rating: 8.4 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 For TAG Heuer’s first outing at Geneva Watch Days, it has released some very cool pieces, one of which (well, three really) is the TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer. A new take on the traditional moonphase complication, TAG Heuer has set out to embark on a new phase for the famous Carrera line. It has introduced three different variations of the Carrera Astronomer – A 500-piece limited edition with grey dial accents and leather strap, a seconds 500-piece limited edition two-tone steel and 18k rose gold plated model, and this, which I’m reviewing today – the full stainless steel model as part of the core collection. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Astronomer Collection with two limited edition pieces on leather and in two-tone, and the full steel core collection model But why an astronomical complication in the Carrera? So, in 1962, a significant moment in both watc...

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First Look – New Full-Steel and Blue Editions of the Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Monochrome
Frederique Constant Classics Premiere Frederique Constant Sep 5, 2025

First Look – New Full-Steel and Blue Editions of the Frederique Constant Classics Premiere

Frederique Constant, the brand that has cemented a reputation for accessible luxury, unveils two new iterations of its Classics Premiere unisex dress watch. Dressed in attractive pastel dial colours, the compact 38.5mm case size is paired with a new stainless steel bracelet for a more contemporary and versatile look. When applied to watchmaking, the term […]

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Precision in Pink: A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 5, 2025

Precision in Pink: A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds

A. Lange & Söhne has just unveiled the fourth livery for the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds, now featuring a pink gold dial. The Jumping Seconds made its debut in 2016, but its unusual feature set and harmonious layout remain impressive nine years later. The new model is a 100-piece limited edition in 18k white gold and features what collectors will no-doubt refer to as a ‘salmon’ dial. But unlike most ‘salmon’ dials that are plated, the dial of the Jumping Seconds is solid 18k pink gold. In other words, its colour is more than skin-deep. Initial thoughts Though it feels like we must be on the tail end of the trend toward salmon dials, Lange’s pink gold dials always look good and might stir up interest in what still feels like an underrated watch. Nearly a decade after launch, the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds remains one of the great regulator-style wristwatches. There’s an extraordinary coherence at play between the design, which references a historical German pocket watch and elevates the deadbeat seconds display, and the movement, which features a one-second remontoir and a return-to-zero mechanism. As ever, the Jumping Seconds presents a wearable 39.9 mm case in 18k white gold, and at just 10.6 mm thick it’s pretty sleek for a watch with so much going on inside. Like its stablemates, it features the characteristic Lange case with a brushed case band and faceted lugs that are attached separately. The L094.1 movement fills the case beautifully, and differ...

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New Versions Of The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds And 1815 Tourbillon Fratello
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 5, 2025

New Versions Of The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds And 1815 Tourbillon

Coinciding with Geneva Watch Days 2025, Germany’s A. Lange & Söhne introduces two new variations of existing models. We get new variations of the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds and the 1815 Tourbillon, both made in very small numbers, and both adding subtle but significant updates. The Richard Lange Jumping Seconds comes in a pink-gold dial […] Visit New Versions Of The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds And 1815 Tourbillon to read the full article.

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Why YES Watches Deserve Your Attention (and A Slot in Your Watch Box) Worn & Wound
Sep 4, 2025

Why YES Watches Deserve Your Attention (and A Slot in Your Watch Box)

When I started collecting watches many years ago, I vividly remember stumbling upon a blog discussing YES and their array of unique and technologically advanced watches. I’m typically not someone who utilizes many of the functions on a watch besides the basic time and date keeping, but when I saw how complicated the dial and modes were on these, I knew I would have to own at least one at some point. Now with two different models in my collection, I wish I could go back and thank the author of that blog for steering me in the right direction all those years prior. For those of you who haven’t seen or heard of YES before, allow me to shed light on them just like that blog did.   A Brief History of the Company For a more in-depth rundown on how YES came to be, I highly recommend reading the writeup by the brand’s founder himself, Bjorn Kartomten, featured on their website. Here, I want to instead offer some insight on the brand’s models and technological innovations rather than the nuts and bolts of how the brand came to be. As I’m sure you’ve already been able to gather by the included photos thus far, these aren’t your typical three-handers. Throughout YES’ catalog are watches boasting equinox and solstice alerts, lunar phase information, daylight and nighttime readouts and estimates, sun and moon calculators to show lunar data for any locations between the years 2000 and 2100, high and low tide indicators, phase elapse countdown timers, compasses, alarms,...

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Introducing – Trilobe Probes the Luxury Sports Watch Arena with the New Trente-Deux Collection Monochrome
Trilobe Sep 4, 2025

Introducing – Trilobe Probes the Luxury Sports Watch Arena with the New Trente-Deux Collection

Trilobe, the young French indie brand, is marking its seventh anniversary with the release of the Trente-Deux, a luxury sports watch collection that retains the unconventional time display created by the brand’s founder, Gautier Massonneau. While the dial borrows design cues from the Nuit Fantastique, the sporty yet elegant stainless steel case and integrated bracelet […]

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Ulysse Nardin’s Entry-Level Freak in Crystalium SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin s Entry-Level Freak Sep 4, 2025

Ulysse Nardin’s Entry-Level Freak in Crystalium

The latest iteration of Ulysse Nardin’s most affordable Freak is the Freak X Crystalium, a limited edition that blends the disruptive Freak aesthetic with a novel decorative element in the form of a dial in Crystalium. Though it has an almost organic look, Crystalium is actually the result of crystallised ruthenium deposited via physical vapour deposition (PVD). The advanced, unusual material is decorative, yet harks back to the Freak’s origins as a materials pioneer. Initial thoughts The Freak has been a core collection in Ulysse Nardin’s roster since the first model was launched back in 2001. The line has been defined by disruptive and bold technical construction and a pioneering use of silicon. But lately it feels watered down; the Freak X dials back on the exotic tech to make the iconic design more attainable. And the many iterations of the Freak X don’t help its case.  But paradoxically the new Freak X is a return to one of the core values of the Freak series: materials science. Ulysse Nardin experimented with all sorts of materials over the years with the Freak as a platform, ranging from the DIAMonSIL escapement to silicon movement bridges to mono block oscillators. The Freak X Crystalium employs new material, but this time it serves an aesthetic function as opposed to a mechanical one. The large rotating disk which serves as the dial’s foundation is covered in an organic-seeming, quartz-like glittering surface that’s the result of years of research.  ...

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Introducing: The Gérald Genta Minute Repeater - A Small Watch With A Big Sound Fratello
Gerald Genta Sep 4, 2025

Introducing: The Gérald Genta Minute Repeater - A Small Watch With A Big Sound

It looks like a watch, and it sounds like a musical instrument. The Gérald Genta Minute Repeater is a resonating 40 × 9.6mm yellow gold grand complication with a black onyx dial. And according to the watch’s creators, a musical instrument comes alive when you sound the time. The watchmakers behind this masterpiece set out […] Visit Introducing: The Gérald Genta Minute Repeater - A Small Watch With A Big Sound to read the full article.

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Gérald Genta Strikes the Right Note with the Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps Sep 4, 2025

Gérald Genta Strikes the Right Note with the Minute Repeater

The reborn Gérald Genta has just unveils a simply-titled complicated watch, the Minute Repeater. Although a new design, the striking timepiece harks back to Gérald Genta’s golden age in the late 20th century, in both style and quality of execution. The case takes a clean, cushion-shaped form, while the dial is glossy black onyx. And inside ticks the GG-002, a hand-wind movement derived from the longstanding repeater movement made by Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), the parent of Gérald Genta. Though not a limited edition, the yearly output will be limited to 10 pieces. Initial thoughts Big-name brand revivals are not always successful endeavours, since it is often difficult for new patrons to recapture the spirit and style of the original, while also making it financially viable. Gérald Genta is clearly an exception. It was relaunched in 2023 by Louis Vuitton, allowing it to lean more towards genuine quality rather than a flash in the pan.  The Minute Repeater is a welcome and original addition to the brand’s collection, embodying the late Genta’s instinctive design flair and aesthetic sensibilities, while being a new(ish) design. An especially pleasant surprise is the original case shape that certainly looks very Gérald Genta, but wasn’t previously in the catalogue, though Genta did pen similar cases in the past. In other words, this is not a remake. The shape sits between an ellipse and a rounded rectangle, capturing the gist of the 1970s design we...

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