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Hands-on with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore self-winding Chronograph WatchAdvice
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore self-winding Jul 12, 2021

Hands-on with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore self-winding Chronograph

First up, let me get something off my chest. I have never been a fan of the movement used in the AP Royal Oak Offshore. As much as I like the style of the watch, I’ve always felt the movement isn’t up to scratch, especially for the price. Of course, not many people will care about this, but one look at how deep-set the date is, and you know clearly that it is a modular construction (module by Dubois-Deprez). And really, at $50k a pop, is it really too much to ask for an integrated chronograph movement? I’m sure there are many out there who will argue that this is part of the charm. It’s what makes the Royal Oak Offshore different. But I have a feeling given how hyped the watches are, people are only too happy to buy one when one is available, and straight away, blinders come on, and the denial begins. Especially when the layout is exactly the same as the ubiquitous ETA 7750 chronographs (12-9-6 sub-dials). Again, nothing wrong with the ETA 7750. In fact, it is one of my favourite entry-level, workhorse movements, but even this one is integrated… Fine. Call me a chronograph snob if you like. As we all know, this hobby is highly personal and highly subjective. I just prefer my chronographs to be integrated. (Although I’m not fussy regarding whether it’s a vertical or horizontal clutch, and whether or not the engagement is controlled by a column-wheel or a cam/lever assembly – I’m sure there are people out there who swears by one form over another…)  This...

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F1 driver Lando Norris robbed of £40k Richard Mille outside Wembley Time+Tide
Richard Mille outside Wembley Jul 12, 2021

F1 driver Lando Norris robbed of £40k Richard Mille outside Wembley

In the aftermath of Sunday’s Euro 2020 soccer final in London, Wembley descended into chaos. Even before the home crowd had watched England lose on penalties to Italy, some 2500 ticketless fans had invaded the stadium. After the game, things got ugly outside the ground as fights broke out and bottles were thrown.  Amid the … ContinuedThe post F1 driver Lando Norris robbed of £40k Richard Mille outside Wembley appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak 34 mm in Black Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils Jul 12, 2021

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak 34 mm in Black Ceramic

For its second round of new launches for 2021 – after the headline-grabbing Black Panther watch – Audemars Piguet (AP) unveiled Royal Oak models in a range of sizes and complications. The novelties are, in short, gorgeous variations of the brand’s octagonal watch. One of the most notable is the smallest amongst the new models. For the first time, AP is applying the full-ceramic treatment to a smaller Royal Oak. The Royal Oak Selfwinding 34 mm Black Ceramic is no doubt good news for enthusiasts who want a more compact but unusual version of the simple Royal Oak (availability notwithstanding). Polished and brushed ceramic Initial thoughts While ceramic has long been synonymous with makers of high-end sports watches like AP, it was used sparingly for the Royal Oak, until four years ago when the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Black Ceramic made its debut. But the all-ceramic Royal Oak models since then have been complicated, including a white-ceramic perpetual calendar or the skeletonised double balance. That makes the 34 mm model in black ceramic a pretty big deal – it’s the first base-model Royal Oak in ceramic. But being a Royal Oak, it still feels familiar, which is a good thing if you like the Royal Oak as I do. Despite being amongst the simplest of Royal Oaks, the new 34 mm model is striking. The pink gold accents on the bezel and dial create the right amount of contrast to break up the monochromatic ceramic, giving the black ceramic a touch of luxe. Consequent...

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Only Watch 2021: Charles Girardier 1809 Tribute to Jackson Pollock SJX Watches
Bulgari Jul 11, 2021

Only Watch 2021: Charles Girardier 1809 Tribute to Jackson Pollock

While named after a late-18th century Swiss watchmaker, Charles Girardier is a startup, having been established in 2018 by Patrick A. Ulm, a Swiss private banker with a passion for watches. The brand focuses on tourbillon wristwatches, but enhanced with elements inspired by vintage Charles Girardier pocket watches, such as paillonnee enamel dials and its whimsical “mysterious” complication. Its Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse Fleur de Sel won the Ladies’ Complications Watch Prize at last year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve, beating out competition from big names like Bulgari and Piaget. For Only Watch 2021, Charles Girardier created the 1809 Tribute to Jackson Pollock, a wristwatch with a figure-of-eight dial layout in grand feu enamel and an unusual automatic movement with a peripheral rotor. Initial thoughts Being relatively young, Charles Girardier only has one model to its name so far, the Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse. Still, it’s a technically interesting watch, making it a useful starting point for an Only Watch edition. The Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse is symmetrical  – both on the front and the back. The dial is arranged in a figure-of-eight, with a flying tourbillon at six, and the “mysterious” complication at twelve. The “mysterious” complication is the brand emblem that spins freely, thanks to a weight on its back that’s hidden under the dial. It gives the dial dynamism, though the “mysterious” complication feels a b...

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Why Romain Gauthier Is The Logical Heir Apparent To Philippe Dufour - Reprise Quill & Pad
Jul 11, 2021

Why Romain Gauthier Is The Logical Heir Apparent To Philippe Dufour - Reprise

It’s no secret: GaryG is an immense admirer of Philippe Dufour. Part of greatness, of course, is leaving a legacy; not only through one’s works, but in the skills and inspiration passed on to those who follow, which Dufour has liberally done. But who, if anyone, will history regard as the lineal heir to the Dufour tradition? Gary has reached what may seem a counterintuitive conclusion: Romain Gauthier.

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HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact Time+Tide
IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks Jul 11, 2021

HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact

The evolution of an iconic design is interesting. How do designers keep something fresh, without losing the identity that made it an icon in the first place? Be it the iPhone, the Porsche 911 or the Nik Air Jordan sneaker, it’s a challenge that organisations around the world struggle with and this year IWC took … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Big Pilot 43 shrinks in size but not impact appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Euro 2020 Watch Cup: Which team boasts the most expensive watches? Time+Tide
Jul 11, 2021

The Euro 2020 Watch Cup: Which team boasts the most expensive watches?

In soccer, sorry football, players can make obscene sums of money and like any superstar athletes use their salaries to acquire some very expensive timepieces. With the UEFA 2020 tournament reaching its climax this weekend, we will finally have a winner after the tournament was delayed for a year due to COVID. But as watch … ContinuedThe post The Euro 2020 Watch Cup: Which team boasts the most expensive watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Panther: Fun Or Fail? (Video) Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Jul 10, 2021

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Panther: Fun Or Fail? (Video)

Can a serious watch manufacture get away with producing such a “gimmicky” timepiece as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Black Panther? Serious and gimmicky are not mutually exclusive, but they were posed as two different questions in the same breath by Marc André Deschoux of The Watches TV in a special video taking a look at the first timepiece to emerge from the collaborative energy between Audemars Piguet and Marvel Studios. What's your opinion?

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Could your smartwatch make you mentally tougher? The military is hopeful that it can Time+Tide
Jul 10, 2021

Could your smartwatch make you mentally tougher? The military is hopeful that it can

In the line of duty, soldiers are routinely subjected to wildly stressful situations. How they handle that mental strain can make a vital difference to how they perform under pressure. Even when enemy bullets are whizzing about their heads, soldiers are required to maintain the necessary composure to think clearly and act decisively. Military training … ContinuedThe post Could your smartwatch make you mentally tougher? The military is hopeful that it can appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Why I Bought It: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual - Reprise Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Sohne Jul 10, 2021

Why I Bought It: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual - Reprise

The date: January 13, 2012. The place: Glashütte, Germany, where one of my best friends had arranged for the two of us to visit A. Lange & Söhne. The vision: my friend extended his arm from the sleeve of his shirt, and what I saw left me reeling – my first view of the Lange Datograph Perpetual in white gold. I was confident from that very moment that this was a watch for me, but pursuit of the piece took four long years.

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The new Linde Werdelin Nord collection delivers hardcore tool watches loaded with arctic cool Time+Tide
Casio n Jul 9, 2021

The new Linde Werdelin Nord collection delivers hardcore tool watches loaded with arctic cool

Note: This is a rather momentous occasion for me as a writer and Independents Editor for Time+Tide.  July 10 is my one-year anniversary for the site with 294 stories to my name, a number that boggles my mind (and that of my very, very patient and beautiful wife). It has been a crazy, loving ride … ContinuedThe post The new Linde Werdelin Nord collection delivers hardcore tool watches loaded with arctic cool appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso - Canvas for Hokusai SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso – Canvas Jul 9, 2021

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso - Canvas for Hokusai

Debuted in 1931, the ubiquitous reversible watch is marking its 90th anniversary this year. Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has rolled out several special editions for the occasion, from a digital hours to the uber Reverso with four faces. But the latest anniversary edition is pared-down in mechanics, but elaborately crafted. JLC turned to its enamel workshop for the Reverso Tribute Enamel, a time-only watch with both the dial and back decorated in grand feu enamel. Most remarkable is the miniature painting on the reverse of the case, which is a miniature version of Kirifuri Waterfall, a 19th century woodblock print by Hokusai, the Japanese artist most famous for The Great Wave off Kanagawa, a print depicting roaring waves with Mount Fuji in the distance (which JLC already put on the back of another Reverso three years ago). Initial thoughts The Reverso Tribute Enamel is a evidently a good looking watch. Simple on the front, looking similar to the standard model, the watch is discreetly captivating, thanks to the green, wavy guilloche dial that evokes the serene motion of the flowing water. And hidden until the case is flipped over is a miniature enamel painting that’s even more outstanding. The brand’s miniature enamelling has long ranked amongst the best in the industry – it was one of the first to establish an in-house enamel studio – and this watch shows that JLC has preserved its prowess. The back is a near-exact recreation of the original woodblock printing by Hokusa...

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Recovered, recast, reinvented: The Zero West H1 Hurricane encapsulates another moment in British aviation history Time+Tide
Jul 9, 2021

Recovered, recast, reinvented: The Zero West H1 Hurricane encapsulates another moment in British aviation history

Racing, diving, and pilot’s watches are the three pillars of the sports watch category. There is a lot of demand for these kinds of watches, and as a result there is a saturation of novelties in a familiar format. Zero West, however, takes things to the next level. Their watches are living mementos of history, … ContinuedThe post Recovered, recast, reinvented: The Zero West H1 Hurricane encapsulates another moment in British aviation history appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Alec Baldwin just posted the best new watch alert of the year for his Kurono Toki Time+Tide
Jul 8, 2021

Alec Baldwin just posted the best new watch alert of the year for his Kurono Toki

I was fortunate enough to receive my Kurono Toki this week, and took to Instagram the day I received it to celebrate my new watch alert. Unknowingly, however, I was totally upstaged by none other than actor Alec Baldwin who had already shared his #NWA weeks earlier. This is truly what #watchfam loves to see. … ContinuedThe post Alec Baldwin just posted the best new watch alert of the year for his Kurono Toki appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Perpetual Twin CronotempVs Edition SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Jul 8, 2021

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C Perpetual Twin CronotempVs Edition

Unveiled five years ago, the L.U.C Perpetual Twin is Chopard’s most affordable perpetual calendar, but finely executed as is typical of L.U.C, the brand’s line of mechanical watches powered by top-class in-house movements. Featuring details absent in similarly-priced peers, such a micro-rotor movement and oversized date, the Perpetual Twin has since been iterated into several versions, but the winner is now clear: the L.U.C Perpetual Twin CronotempVs Edition, a collaboration between the watchmaker and eponymous collectors club based in Spain. The CronotempVs edition has a striking palette: dial with an uncommon, grained-gold finish with black sub-dials and indices, giving it a strong, high-contrast look that suits the largish steel case. Initial thoughts Chopard’s prowess in watchmaking is indisputable – its top-of-the-line creations rival even the work put out by best independent watchmakers – but the brand is often overlooked, especially since prevailing fads mean most turn to bigger names or “safer” choices. And it doesn’t help that Chopard generates most of its revenue from cheerful ladies’ watches and jewellery. The L.U.C line stands out for its movements with sophisticated construction and finishing, even for the simplest, entry-level models – demonstrated by the double-chronometer wristwatch unveiled earlier this year. But it still receives a lukewarm reception from the broader market. That’s in part due to the designs, which are often satis...

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Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked “Rainbow” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Frosted Jul 7, 2021

Audemars Piguet Introduces Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked “Rainbow”

Undoubtedly the most technically interesting movement in a time-only Royal Oak, the skeletonised cal. 3132 with twin balance wheels made its debut in a discreet package in 2016. It got fancier attire more recently with a gem-set “rainbow” bezel and hammered case finish, but only with the smaller, 37 mm case. Now “rainbow” meets mechanics in the 41 mm case for the first time – in all three colours of gold no less. Extravagant but surprisingly not that exorbitant in price, the Royal Oak Frosted Gold Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41 mm combines the largest-sized case with a multicoloured bezel, and most importantly, the twin-oscillator movement. Initial thoughts A unique combination of bling and technical credentials is precisely the appeal of the new Double Balance. Currently fashionable and maybe too common, the multi-coloured gemstone bezel is over the top but it is cool. The movement, on the other hand, is smart. The calibre relies on twin balance wheels, each with its own hairspring, to average out positional errors and improve stability, making for better timekeeping over the long run. This mix of sparkly excess and mechanical achievement is rare, which sets the watch apart from its peers. So if you’re someone who likes “rainbow” watches, this is one of the few that has strong technical merit. And it’s priced at about US$120,000, which is definitely a square deal for such a watch. The only downside is the pronounced lack of availability, which ...

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Prepare to be mesmerised by the dial of the Laine 1817 engraved first series Time+Tide
Jul 7, 2021

Prepare to be mesmerised by the dial of the Laine 1817 engraved first series

Torsti Laine is a relatively fresh face on the independent watchmaking scene, releasing his first watches back in 2016, but he’s quickly made a name for himself  by offering affordable and customisable watches. Born in Finland, Laine was a computer programmer before he turned his hand to watchmaking, enrolling in the Kelloseppäkoulu Finnish School of … ContinuedThe post Prepare to be mesmerised by the dial of the Laine 1817 engraved first series appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Affordable Custom Watchmaking of Maxim Sushkov SJX Watches
Breguet numerals as well as Jul 7, 2021

The Affordable Custom Watchmaking of Maxim Sushkov

Russian independent watchmaker Maxim Sushkov specialises in affordable custom timepieces, and has just unveiled his latest. Created for an Austrian client, the Watch Creative is a dress watch with classical elements like teardrop lugs and Breguet numerals, as well as a few striking, original details, such as the unusual, droplet-shaped hands. Initial thoughts While still niche, independent watchmaking has gained increasing traction in recent years. Its rising popularity has been accompanied with rising prices, both in the secondary market and at retail. A few watchmakers, however, continue to offer accessibly priced, original work. One such example is Mr Sushkov, who provides a channel for enthusiasts to commission one-off timepieces, appealing to collectors who fancy something unique but affordable. The Watch Creative illustrates Mr Sushkov’s work well. From the case with soldered lugs to the guilloche dial, it’s made up of a mix of stock and custom parts – with a good deal of work done by hand – resulting in a simple watch with interesting details. In fact, the custom execution make it a good value proposition at around US$4,200. This has little competition at the US$4,000 mark in a similar vein of customised watches, except for fellow Russian watchmakers like HoD (though it occasionally works with Mr Sushkov). An alternative similar priced but the complete opposite in concept is the Ophion Velos, a watch that is more polished and refined, but made by machine i...

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First Tudor boutique in Australia opens with launch of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze Time+Tide
Tudor boutique Jul 6, 2021

First Tudor boutique in Australia opens with launch of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze

Tudor achieved a perfect storm in Australia recently – launching the first Tudor boutique in the country, and the 50th around the world, while at the same time unveiling another eye-catching new model – the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze. The third moment of note was the opportunity to meet in person the new General Manager … ContinuedThe post First Tudor boutique in Australia opens with launch of the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A month on the wrist with the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 - an integrated bracelet wristwatch for the people Time+Tide
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 – Jul 6, 2021

A month on the wrist with the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 - an integrated bracelet wristwatch for the people

The relationship between the Swatch Group and Tissot brings a host of benefits to the table. As the powerful parent company, the Swatch Group can deliver enviable command over economies of scale and a direct line to movement manufacturing with ETA. Being able to tap into such mighty resources enables Tissot to react quickly to … ContinuedThe post A month on the wrist with the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 – an integrated bracelet wristwatch for the people appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Olympic sprint sensation Noah Lyles really loves his Omega Speedmasters Time+Tide
Omega Speedmasters Noah Lyles Jul 5, 2021

Olympic sprint sensation Noah Lyles really loves his Omega Speedmasters

Noah Lyles is set to be one of the big attractions at the Tokyo Olympics. Despite being only 23 years old, he already boasts a 100m personal best of 9.86 seconds, while last week, in the U.S. Olympic track and field trials, Lyles ran the 200m in 19.74 seconds, the fastest time in the world … ContinuedThe post Olympic sprint sensation Noah Lyles really loves his Omega Speedmasters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Up Close: Hermès H08 Automatic SJX Watches
Hermes Jul 5, 2021

Up Close: Hermès H08 Automatic

Unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2021, the H08 is an all-new men’s watch from Hermès. Featuring a cushion-shaped case and a Vaucher movement, the H08 is typical of Hermes in its restrained, thoughtful styling exemplified by the custom typography. Hermès described the H08 at its launch as a relatively affordable, everyday watch with a simple, high-quality execution – which is accurate. Though it comes from a brand better known for its handbags and scarves, the H08 is a watch done well in many ways. Initial thoughts The H08 is surprisingly appealing in the metal. Slim and lightweight, it has a design that is interesting despite being simple. And its technical credentials are solid, albeit not fancy, with the H1837 movement inside being a Vaucher calibre. Although the H08 does evoke other watch designs, it still manages to look original. And it does look like a Hermes product, which might be important to some buyers, thanks to the touch of orange in the seconds hand that remains discreet enough to suit those who don’t care for obvious emblems. The H1837 Characterised by geometric shapes, the styling is modern while incorporating accents that illustrate Hermes’ traditional attention to detail. The font used for the hour numerals, for instance, was designed specifically for the H08 and echoes the cushion shape of the case. And the same font is used for the date, ensuring perfect consistency in its typography (though it does impact legibility of the date somewhat). On t...

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Business News: Consolidation in European Pre-Owned Watches SJX Watches
Cartier Jul 5, 2021

Business News: Consolidation in European Pre-Owned Watches

Historically fragmented and dominated by numerous small players, the pre-owned watch industry has been consolidating with at an increasing pace, driven by the e-commerce and ambitious entrants from outside the business. Amongst the most prominent and fastest-growing is Watchbox, which began as an offshoot of authorised retailer Govberg Jewelers but has since grown into one of the largest pre-owned merchants with outposts in Hong Kong, Dubai, and even South Africa. Even Richemont, the Swiss conglomerate that owns brands like Cartier and IWC, has invested substantially in the space with its 2018 acquisition of British outfit Watchfinder. Though the most widely-reported developments in the business are largely concentrated in the United States and Britain, continental Europe is experiencing similar growth, especially in its largest markets like Germany and France. The recently announced takeover of Paris-based MMC by Watchmaster in Germany illustrates many of the trends shaping the pre-owned business. Like many recent startups in the space, Watchmaster was founded by digital entrepreneurs instead of watch industry insiders. In fact, almost all of Watchmaster’s founders and senior managers are former employees of Quandoo, the restaurant booking platform that was sold to Japanese staffing giant Recruit Holdings in 2015 for about €200 million, shortly before Watchmaster was set up. Watchmaster’s current chief executive, Tim-Hendrik Meyer, was a cofounder of Quandoo, as a...

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From Boyz II Men to Backstreet Boys - watch spotting in Netflix’s “This Is Pop” Time+Tide
Jul 5, 2021

From Boyz II Men to Backstreet Boys - watch spotting in Netflix’s “This Is Pop”

“Ten, nine, eight, seven, six, five, four, three, two, one (wristwatches fellas)…” With its recognisable intro, Netflix’s original docuseries, This Is Pop, takes off and guides you through some of the biggest moments in pop history. From the explosion of Boyz II Men and their addictive harmonies, to the music festivals that defined a generation, … ContinuedThe post From Boyz II Men to Backstreet Boys – watch spotting in Netflix’s “This Is Pop” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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