Revolution
Cartier: An Origin Story
We rewind back to the very beginnings of Cartier’s most iconic collections, the Santos, the Pasha and the Tank Asymétrique.
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Revolution
Revolution
Hands-On with The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15500
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ref. 15000 is an excellent update to the basic Royal Oak model and a great all-around daily-wearer.
Quill & Pad
Vianney Halter Deep Space Resonance Triple-Axis Tourbillon: Even Gravity Won’t Bring It Down!
All the delicious details of this mechanical birthday cake of horology base upon the concept of acoustic resonance: Vianney Halter's Deep Space Resonance comprises a triple-axis tourbillon paired with resonating balance wheels and a far-out look. Joshua Munchow digs into the nitty-gritty of this brand-new timepiece by the independent watchmaker and reports back from somewhere in the furthest reaches of the galaxy.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary
Announced quietly late last year and already in stores, the Cartier Tank Cintrée 100th Anniversary (ref. WGTA0057) is a limited edition to mark the centenary of the jeweller’s formal watch for men. A handsome watch that faithfully replicates nearly all elements of the vintage original, the anniversary edition is distinct from the 2018 Tank Cintrée in both case and movement. In fact, the anniversary model is actually a revival of the 2005 Tank Cintrée. The elegance and refinement, however, comes at an unusually high price. A variety of modern-day Tank Cintrée iterations Initial thoughts The Tank Cintrée is a formal watch, with all the elegance and simplicity that dictates, while being a form watch, instead of a plain, round shape that most dress watches are. That’s the singular talent of the Tank Cintrée, explaining why it remains appealing after a century. Practically a one-to-one remake of the 1920s Tank Cintrée, the anniversary edition – like most other vintage remakes – scores high on beauty since the original was attractive, but low on imagination and novelty. And more notably, the anniversary edition is a revival of the a more recent watch, the Tank Cintrée in yellow gold of 2005 – both have the same case and movement. Perfectly executed as a remake, the anniversary edition reproduces the look of a vintage original well in all aspects. But the anniversary edition approximates how a 1920s example would look today, after a century of ageing, rather ...
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: A titanium watch for under $500? No, we haven’t been drinking. Meet the Boldr Venture Chaigo…
Titanium: the strong, ultralight metal of the future. Once exclusive to Formula 1 cars and racing bike parts, now you can get hold of it in watch form for less than than $500 in a limited edition with a full titanium bracelet. The Boldr Venture Chaigo might be the world’s best value titanium watch at … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: A titanium watch for under $500? No, we haven’t been drinking. Meet the Boldr Venture Chaigo… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Don’t break the bank with these 6 watch recommendations
In this week's column, we take a look at some of the more well-priced and affordable watches that are available on the market currently.
Quill & Pad
Collector Conversations: Shark Tank’s ‘Mr. Wonderful,’ Kevin O’Leary, Reveals Watch Collecting Philosophy To GaryG – Reprise
It’s still all about the people! Nothing makes GaryG happier than getting together and talking watches. At the F.P. Journe New York Boutique anniversary dinner late 2019, he had the pleasure of chatting with entrepreneur, television personality, and enthusiast watch collector Kevin O’Leary. In this post, he comes back to him with specific questions . . . and gets the answers!
Quill & Pad
Glenlivet Winchester Collection Vintage 1967: Ultra-Rare 50-Year-Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky Selling For $25,000 Per Bottle – Reprise
A blend of rare single malts – the youngest of which was filled in December 1967 – The Glenlivet Winchester Collection Vintage 1967 is non-chill filtered at cask strength. It offers drinkers a rich and fruity nose with notes of apricot jam, sweet ripe peaches, and a touch of toasted almonds. And it costs $25,000 per bottle. Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle explains why.
Time+Tide
Kardashian family splashes out 300K on Rolex watches as gifts to film crew after final season of KUWTK wraps
OK, I am not going to pretend this show was part of my television diet, but Keeping up with the Kardashians has undoubtedly been a world phenomenon over the past 15 years it has aired. The Kardashian family is practically royalty in the United States with many devoted fans supporting their respective businesses and endeavours. … ContinuedThe post Kardashian family splashes out 300K on Rolex watches as gifts to film crew after final season of KUWTK wraps appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Story of Early Roger Dubuis
The first-born creations of the renowned watchmaker for his eponymous brand perhaps best reflect his ideals in watch and movement designs.
SJX Watches
Breguet Debuts the Intriguing, Ingenious Valentine’s Day Special
Breguet, as well as its sister brand Blancpain, has made it a habit to introduce a Valentine’s Day edition each year. They are typically variations of existing ladies’s watches that have been dressed up with extra mother of pearl or diamonds; they are rarely interesting mechanically. But for Valentine’s Day 2021, Breguet has the Reine de Naples Cœur 9825 up its sleeve, and it is a surprisingly interesting watch. Presented in the familiar egg-shaped Reine de Naples case, the Cœur edition (coeur is “heart” in French) is inspired by 18th century “expanding hands” pocket watches. Initial thoughts Breguet is capable of many impressive complications – demonstrated by watches like the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 – but they are rarely quirky. Though inspired by historical pocket watches, the Reine de Naples Cœur is clever and original. The repeated use of hearts throughout the design feels a bit affected – the five-minute markers are all tiny hearts – but the watch remains graceful, with a subtle complication that isn’t immediately apparent. Although no photos of the movement are available yet, the cal. 78A0 inside is almost certainly constructed and decorated to a high level, as all Breguet watches are. The fact that it’s limited to just 28 watches is a bit of a shame, especially considering the reasonable price tag of just over US$46,000. Expanding hands Pocket watches with “expanding hands” were invented sometime in the earl...
Revolution
Available In The Shop: The Limited Edition Audemars Piguet Royal Oak QEII Cup
The Royal Oak QEII Cup 2017 is an impressive and lightweight limited edition Royal Oak sure to become sought after in the future.
Quill & Pad
New Bulgari Gérald Genta Arena Bi-Retro Sport: Intertwined History, Great Design
After celebrating the fiftieth anniversary of Gérald Genta's eponymous company founded in 1969, Bulgari embarks on reinstating the niche brand within its own ranks, kicking off with a captivating, revamped version of the Gérald Genta Arena Bi-Retro Sport. Find out the fascinating history behind this formerly independent brand and the series of events leading to this decision right here.
SJX Watches
Ming Debuts the Facelifted, Ultra-Thin 27.02
An evolution of the 27.01, the brand’s original extra-flat watch, the Ming 27.02 is a gentle redesign, retaining the same svelte case and movement, but incorporating a sapphire dial that has a gradient finish that sits on a clous de Paris guilloché ring around its perimeter – albeit at a substantially higher price. The 27.02 also marks the end of the 27 series; Ming “will be retiring the [series] permanently” once its production is complete. Initial thoughts The fact that Ming watches sell out swiftly upon launch attests to the popularity of its watches. So it is perhaps inevitable that the brand is gradually increasing the prices of its watches – albeit with upgrades to the product – as it repositions itself as a more upmarket brand. While the brand’s inaugural 17 series was well liked for being outstanding value – they were mostly under 1,500 Swiss francs – the 27.02 and recent launches like the Diver 18.01 indicate that Ming’s “budget” days seem to be well over. I find the 27.02 to be a fine, handsome watch, with a design that’s quintessentially Ming. The smoked sapphire dial is clever, with its gradient finish making the watch visually intriguing, creating a sense of visual depth that belies its thinness. Nevertheless, the 27.02 is very much the same watch as the 27.01 (which in turn was an upgraded derivative of the 17 series). Both share the exact same case and movement – an ETA Peseux 7001 that has been significantly reworked by Sc...
Revolution
Milestone Military Chronographs
As service-issue chronographs continue to experience an inexorable growth in interest, we take a look at the origins and unusual specs of some of the finest, most important pilot’s chronographs in military history.
Time+Tide
Dive Watch Fundamentals – How Blancpain gave birth to the modern dive watch
Many, many people out there view the ubiquitous Rolex Submariner as the forefather of all amphibious timepieces. And they’re dead wrong. In fact, the first truly fit-for-purpose dive watch was made by one of the oldest Swiss watchmakers in the game – Blancpain. The story of the world’s first dive watch is an interesting one, … ContinuedThe post Dive Watch Fundamentals – How Blancpain gave birth to the modern dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano: A Tantalizing Two-Time Zone Teaser Of What’s To Come
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano combines the best with the best from 90 years' worth of Reverso variations, offering a pure, classic style that makes this watch both a statement and an understatement, the two faces doubling the impact. And as Martin Green explains, it's just a teaser of what's to come is 2021 as Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrates the 90th anniversary of the iconic model.
Time+Tide
5 vintage finds you can pick up on eBay right now
If you’re a regular reader of Time+Tide, you’re likely to sit somewhere on the scale of watch addiction. From unrelenting curiosity to full-blown collecting mania, you should know that you aren’t alone in your unquenchable thirst for that next addition to the collection. And what better way to start the year than by getting a … ContinuedThe post 5 vintage finds you can pick up on eBay right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Ebel ‘Sonny Crockett’ -an El Primero Chrono That Could Become Your Vice
Ross Povey looks at a Zenith El Primero-driven chrono from the 1980s and ’90s that won’t break your bank. So, comb your mullet through, pop on your espadrilles and let’s hit Miami and check out the Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph 1911…
Revolution
Available In The Shop: Two Limited Editions Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore
The two limited edition Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore step away from the classic materials used in the collection and are bound to become future collectibles.
Quill & Pad
Book Review: ‘Stalin’s Wine Cellar’ By John Baker
Whether 'Stalin’s Wine Cellar' is a journey about chasing fakes, or if these bottles hidden away in the former Soviet Union are genuine, the story makes for a rollicking saga. And if the bottles are genuine, who really did own them and what on earth might they be worth? The tale takes us on twist after twist and has been described as “Raiders of the Lost Ark for wine lovers.” Ken Gargett couldn't put the book down.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Ref. 6301P-001
Patek Philippe closed 2020 in a big way with the launch of the Grande Sonnerie ref. 6301P-001 in November. The most complicated wristwatch unveiled by the Geneva watchmaker in recent years, the Grande Sonnerie is a grande and petite sonnerie carillon. With last year’s Geneva watch fair cancelled, the brand unveiled its new releases one by one throughout the year, starting with the limited-edition Calatrava ref. 6007A in June, allowing each new model to be in stores as soon as it was announced. The Grande Sonnerie ref. 6301P-001 was no different, albeit on a tiny scale, with reputedly only a handful available in each region – all sold before the launch. Initial thoughts An impressively large watch, the ref. 6301P feels like a modern-day grand complication. The size is a consequence of the wide and complex movement, so the watch has good proportions all things considered. But the styling is classical, incorporating many elements from vintage Patek Philippe watches – and also the ref. 5370P split-seconds chronograph – which gives it an elegant appearance, something helped by the relative thinness of the case. Still, it is clearly a contemporary watch – Patek Philippe rarely does exact remakes of vintage watches – with details that mark it out as such, including the recessed case band and the luminous hands. The fact that the watch is contemporary is evident in the movement, which looks and functions like a modern calibre, reflecting Patek Philippe’s measured,...
SJX Watches
Ressence Unveils the Last in the 10th Anniversary “X” Series Tetralogy
Though just 10 years old, Belgian watchmaker Ressence has already made its mark with its sleek, inventive designs centred on a planetary time display – which is fun and surprisingly legible – and an ingenious, oil-filled case. To mark its 10th anniversary, the brand rolled out a quartet of limited-edition “X” series watches, which has just reached its conclusion with the launch of the final instalment, the Type 1 Squared X. The Type 1 Squared X Each of the anniversary watches was based on a standard model, but gently and cleverly tweaked to distinguish them. A recurring theme throughout the quartet is green dial, albeit in different shades, and more notably, quirky technical modifications. So the new Type 1 Squared X is clad in metallic, olive green while having a novel day and night indicator that relies on coloured ceramic ball. The X series (from the top): Type 1 Squared X, Type 5X, Type 3X, and Type 1 Slim X Initial thoughts Ressence watches are appealing in a quirky way. Though entirely mechanical, they evoke the liquid-crystal displays of smart watches. Many of the brand’s watches are modern, looking cool but somewhat cold in their black or grey metallic colours. The Type 1 Squared X, however, lightens its tone with the green dial. And it is made all the more intriguing with its day and night indicator developed with the neuroscientist at Harvard, a string of colourful ceramic ball that Ressence dubs the “Time by Colour” system. Nevertheless, the Type ...
Deployant
Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down – quirky yet supremely innovative: a close look review.
We take a close look at the Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down watch, in platinum with a blue dial. We explain how it works and why the quirkiness is attractive.
Time+Tide
Celebrating Seiko’s NH35 movement – the unsung hero used by top microbrands in everything from indestructible divers to vintage stunners
Is Seiko’s NH35 movement ubiquitous due to its brilliance or sheer availability? This hand-wound, hacking movement is today widely used on the microbrand scene and is basically the unbranded version of Seiko’s 4R35 movement that’s universally admired for its toughness and accuracy. Similarly reliable and robust, the NH35 is a strong mechanical heart fitted to … ContinuedThe post Celebrating Seiko’s NH35 movement – the unsung hero used by top microbrands in everything from indestructible divers to vintage stunners appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
90 Years Of The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Celebrating an anniversary like 90 years is a must when you’re a wristwatch as old and as evergreen as the Reverso. In honor of the long and successful career of the horological icon, let’s take a brief look back over the last nine decades of this truly authentic timepiece, an Art Deco original in the world of watches.
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Could your PlayStation 5 controller screw up your watch by emitting magnetic fields?
Magnets are useful for many things. They’ve helped decorate the outside of countless fridges, inspired the name of a seminal New York rap group (the Ultramagnetic MCs), and given Wile E Coyote various half-baked ideas in his doomed attempt to catch Road Runner. But magnets are less benign when it comes to your mechanical watch. … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Could your PlayStation 5 controller screw up your watch by emitting magnetic fields? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Oscillating Pinion: The Unsung Chronograph Coupling Solution
While the oscillating pinion has somewhat of a bad rap for being an economical, if not crude coupling system in chronograph mechanisms, it was the chosen method of engagement in two of the most interesting (high-end) chronograph watches in recent times. We take a look at the history of its use, the pros and cons of its construction and its application in modern watchmaking.
Quill & Pad
Richard Mille RM 65-01 Split Seconds Automatic Chronograph: How Many Clicks Does It Take?
The RM 65-01 is the latest in a proud line of rugged, structurally advanced chronographs from Richard Mille. In basic terms, it is an automatic, split-seconds chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers that displays the date and includes a function selector, rapid winding mechanism, and variable geometry winding rotor. But as Joshua Munchow reveals, there's much more to it than that.
Time+Tide
Our sexiest watch shots of 2020 plus five tips to take better watch pics yourself
OK, honesty time: I’m a self-confessed dial obsessive. Don’t get me wrong, the hypnotic ballet of a tourbillon still tugs my heartstrings so much it hurts. But have that poking out of a masterful dial and I’m ready to sell my BMW. The dial is the face, the first impression and, for me, the absolute … ContinuedThe post Our sexiest watch shots of 2020 plus five tips to take better watch pics yourself appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.