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Time+Tide
The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT finally acknowledges travel as part of a luxury lifestyle. The latest Riviera wave dial is stunning in either silver or blue. It’s powered by an ETA 2893-2 base movement. The Baume & Mercier Riviera has always been a lifestyle compliment, ever since its release in 1973. When the luxury … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Given the endless amount of watches Seiko offers throughout their various collections and sub-collections, there’s a sure-fire chance that there’s a Seiko for you. But on the rare occasion there isn’t a Seiko that checks all the boxes, then all I can say is, just give it some time, because Seiko has a knack for giving us what we want if we’re patient enough. Whether it’s a different dial color for a particular reference, a change in date window placement (or window shape), or an affordable (Dive) GMT, Seiko has pretty much answered the bell, making the exact watch we’ve described thoroughly in the Instagram comments of a watch that jussssst missed the mark. The newly announced Seiko 5 Sports Mid-Field Collection follows this exact theme. The current line of field watches within the Seiko 5 Sports catalog include a wide variety of dial colors and variations. However as currently presented, every model within that range comes with a stainless steel case that hovers a touch north of 39mm in width. That’s not a slight to this particular model by any means. It’s a simple, straightforward field watch that has a retail sticker that no one can really argue with. I currently own our Worn & Wound 10th year anniversary limited edition with Seiko that uses this exact case and dial platform. My only nit that I have to pick with the watch is that I wish it came in a more compact package. And then yet again, Seiko answered the call, as if they had been reading my mind thi...
Quill & Pad
One of the most important things for the watchmaking industry is to ensure that today's watchmakers have successors that can repair old watches, make new watches, and develop the next generation of watches. Fortunately, the next generation is coming on and is coming in hot, as Victor Monnin and Alexander Hazemann, two young watchmaking students, highlight as they take things to the next level with their school watches.
SJX Watches
The news concerning a revival of Daniel Roth was been circulating in Geneva and Paris for over a year but it is now official. LVMH just announced Daniel Roth “will be run as an independent brand, with guidance and incubation from La Fabrique Du Temps Louis Vuitton, as of February 2023.” Once an independent brand run by its namesake founder, Daniel Roth had its heyday in the mid-1990s when classical complications with Breguet styling were the “in” thing with collectors. Due to Mr Roth’s personal and financial struggles, the brand then changed hands several times before ending up with Bulgari over a decade ago. Daniel Roth had been on ice for several years after a few half-hearted attempts by the Italian jeweller to do something with the brand. No doubt spurred by the renewed interest in independent watchmaking, LVMH has spun off Daniel Roth and attached it to La Fabrique du Temps (LFDT), the complications and movement factory owned by Louis Vuitton (and word has it that the same will soon be done with Gerald Genta, once the sister brand of Daniel Roth). One of the less successful Bulgari-Daniel Roth offerings, a “Chronosprint” made for the All Blacks, New Zealand’s rugby team Revived with resources The return of the brand is the brainchild of Jean Arnault, the Director of Marketing and Development at Louis Vuitton’s watch division. While Mr Arnault is best known as being the youngest son of LVMH chief executive Bernard Arnault, the younger Arnault is a c...
Time+Tide
Any fun plans for the weekend? Well, before you get to it, here are the highlights of the week you may have missed and that we have yet to cover ourselves! Sinn goes for Gold(bronze) New T50 watches with new in-house Goldbronze 125 alloy comprised of 12.5% solid gold (Omega’s bronze gold is 37.5% for … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Sinn debuts Goldbronze, Richard Mille emphasises women, tantalising new Moser appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold’s faceted case is inspired by the lines of stealth aircraft design 45mm in diameter, 18K rose gold and PVD blue titanium case. Flying Tourbillon. Hours and minutes. Escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring in silicium. When delving into the romanticism of traditional high-end watchmaking, we often discuss hand-craftsmanship. But, … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold offers exemplary in-house machined mastery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin is a brand that does things properly. Established in 1755, the prestigious manufacturer only produces about 20,000 watches a year, due to their commitment to uphold their famously high standards. This exacting attitude contributed to the delay in opening a dedicated Sydney boutique until they found the ideal location. But that wait is … ContinuedThe post Vacheron Constantin unveils multi-level boutique in Sydney appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When a brand so full of artistic integrity as Minase labels something a masterpiece, we had better pay attention. Given the level of quality and attention to detail of even the most affordable Minase, what they can do in super-limited runs with a sizeable budget and the help of dedicated artisans is almost beyond the … ContinuedThe post The Minase Masterpiece collection lives up to its name appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Sleep deprivation, hunger and having to pull a suitcase behind you while trying not to collapse are the usual symptoms of flying into a new city late at night, however one of the few saving graces is the view you can get looking over the illuminated cityscape. Witnessing the streets and landscapes glowing with life … ContinuedThe post It’s Sydney’s time to shine with the Vacheron Constantin Villes Lumières appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
No, we did not actually speak with former president Donald Trump. The below – where we asked AI to review the Rolex Submariner in the style of Donald Trump – is actually another reflection of how much the ChatGPT technology is evolving. Since we did this earlier in the week, the AI has since been updated to … ContinuedThe post Donald Trump shares his thoughts on the Rolex Submariner with us. Well, sort of… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
TGIF! But, before you gear up for your weekend fun, here are some highlights from this week – along with a reminder that now is the time to pick up our NOW Magazine. Ulysse Nardin drops a new Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold 45mm 18K rose gold and PVD blue titanium faceted case inspired by … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Ulysse Nardin Blast, Blancpain, and our NOW Buying Guide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Once a major brand during the 20th century heyday of American watchmaking, Bulova had a long association with the American space programme and US Air Force. Its watches broke the sound barrier, went to space, and even the Moon. One of the watches that left Earth’s atmosphere was the Accutron Astronaut, which orbited the Earth on Mercury-Atlas 9 in 1963. Now having been spun off as a standalone brand by Bulova, Accutron debuts the Astronaut “T”. The limited-edition remake replicates the look of the crown-less, electric original, but as a modern mechanical watch with a Sellita movement featuring a dual time zone function. Initial thoughts Now owned by Japanese watch giant Citizen, Bulova has been steadily rolling out reissues of its best-known historical models, and unsurprisingly Accutron is doing the same. The Astronaut “T” is just the first in an upcoming series of Astronaut watches. Like the brand’s other reissues, the Astronaut “T” has an appealing aesthetic if you like the retro, 1960s style that characterises the series. And though little known, Bulova’s history in space exploration and cutting-edge air force projects brings a good deal of historical glamour to the model, which boosts its appeal. But the remake is pricey, especially given that neither the modern-day Bulova brand nor Accutron are known as a makers of high-end watches. The retail price of US$3,500 puts it in the same territory as the Tudor Black Bay Pro that has a more sophisticat...
Time+Tide
Another week, another couple of impressively featured Grand Seiko releases. Today’s offerings include an until-now limited edition-only chronograph and an addition to the Elegance GMT collection. The former, taking inspiration from the mighty lion emblazoned on Grand Seiko’s logo, is the Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC253, dubbed the Tokyo Lion, extending the large feline inspiration … ContinuedThe post High-end and high-tech GMT duo: The Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion SBGC253 and Yukigesho SBGJ271 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
What we like: Dial is a real head turner3D Printed Carbon case is a winnerMassive five-day power reserve What we don’t like: Some may find it to be expensiveThe fingerprints easily show on the crystal Some may not appreciate the 3D-printed case Overall rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build quality: 8/10 2022 was a big year for the independent Swiss brand Oris. Amongst the brand’s major updates to some of its collections was the continued release of its limited edition timepieces based on ecological conservation. The last major release for Oris in 2022 was the Coulson Limited edition, a watch created from the latest partnership with Coulson Aviation. Alongside creating luxury timepieces, Oris also works in a variety of different areas to bring “Change for the Better” for the planet and its people. Oris is also now independently certified as a climate-neutral company, with the watch brand working closely with other pioneering agencies to bring the change required to make the world a better place. One of these agencies is Coulson Aviation, which Oris just recently partnered up with. Coulson Aviation is a family-run independent company based in Canada that sends out pilots, planes, and also much-needed equipment to areas of the world that are heavily affected by wildfires. The resources and help provided are split between the US and California for the Northern Hemisphere summer and for the Southern Hemisphere summer, Australia and...
Worn & Wound
Brellum is an up and coming independent brand that prides itself on its rich familial history in watchmaking. Founder Sebastian Muller can trace his family lineage of watchmakers all the way back to his great grandfather who set up his very own shop in 1910. The rest, as they say, is history. Brellum exists today with the intention of continuing the Mueller legacy by producing highly-crafted timepieces that, not only present with a thoughtful design for the modern day wearer, but to pay homage to their family’s passion for traditional Swiss watchmaking. Their surname is an anagram in the brand’s namesake afterall. Recently, the brand announced a very limited run of a handsome pilot’s chronograph equipped with a GMT function with the Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer. The dial is where the Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer shows a whole lot of flash without straying too far away from the traditional pilot’s watch aesthetic. And by flash, I mean that opalin silver-now dial. From the images, it seems that this dial has its own character all on its own, displaying a luster against radiant lighting, and then a more toned down matted white in neutral lighting. All of the dial markings use black as the main color for unmistakable legibility including the minute track, 24 hour display bordering the outer portion of the dial, and applied numeral hour markers. The subdials take up dial real-estate at six, twelve and nine with a date window sneaking into the six o’clock s...
Hodinkee
Two editors share their favorite V-Day picks and what follows is some agreement, some disagreement, some Cartier, some Rolex, and lots of hearts.
SJX Watches
Since it was founded three years ago, Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel has released a number of well-applauded limited editions focused on up-and-coming independents and micro brands. It first began with the French brand Baltic through a limited release of the HMS and Bicompax, and more recently, the MR-01 Perpétuel, their spin on the brand’s best-selling micro-rotor wristwatch. The retailer has now tapped the services of Excelsior Park, a legacy brand that is based on the former watch company known for producing chronograph movements for the likes of Gallet, Girard-Perregaux and Zenith. After numerous failed attempts at reviving the brand in the 1980s and the 2000s, it was relaunched by watch industry veteran Guillaume Laidet who previously spearheaded the resurrection of legacy brands Nivada Grenchen and, more recently, Vulcain. After releasing a limited edition with a salmon dial that immediately sold out last year, they have teamed up once again to debut their latest collaboration in The Soda Fountain Edition, a limited release of the Excelsior EP95004 chronograph featuring a vibrant blue dial completed with applied Eastern-Arabic numerals. Initial thoughts The relaunch of Excelsior Park two years ago was kind of a godsend for vintage watch enthusiasts, given its long and rich history as a renowned movement maker. Since its rebirth, the brand has been carving itself a niche market catering towards a younger demographic who desire that vintage-styled watches but a...
Time+Tide
Though the story of Seiko began almost 150 years ago, the first wristwatch wouldn’t come until three decades later, in 1913 with the Seiko Laurel. The brand recently paid homage to that exact piece with a modern re-issue, but the celebrations didn’t stop there. Despite the fact that King Seiko is no longer the brand … ContinuedThe post New dials and dimensions for the King Seiko 110th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Some extinct brands that get revived for the modern mechanical boom are often raised in mystery, bought out by private companies who heap glory on their adopted heritage to distract from the lack of modern substance. Fears is the direct opposite of that, not only being reincarnated by a member of the original family but … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The triumphant story of the Fears Brunswick appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide Mahindra teams up with the popular Formula E racing team. The Mahindra Racing logo can be seen etched into the dial pattern. The red and black case is made from upcycled ocean plastic. The conversation of recycled plastic cases has been by and large overshadowed by the popularity of the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Maurice Lacroix Aikon #tide Mahindra appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
G-SHOCK has had a string of successful releases over the past few years with full metal watches that incorporate some type of interesting, laser engraved design. It turns out that the G-SHOCK case and bracelet is a surprisingly versatile canvas for compelling camo designs, sci-fi influenced schematics, and the touch of an actual artist. With this latest release, the design influence is actually G-SHOCK itself, using the design of their own circuit board as a jumping off point for a very contemporary watch that pays tribute to the brand’s roots. The G-SHOCK Circuit Camouflage, reference GMWB5000TCC1, is billed as a titanium version of the very first G-SHOCK, the famed DW-5000C. You’ll note that the new watch shares the same iconic case lines as that early G-SHOCK release, just in titanium, rather than resin. The camo-like design that has been laser etched on the case and bracelet is a real G-SHOCK insider’s treat. The pattern is lifted from the 3459 circuit board found in the GMWB5000 series watches, and has been meticulously recreated using some fairly high end manufacturing techniques. The base of the watch is a coating of black IP. This ion plating technique has been the go-to process for G-SHOCK in virtually all of their recent coated metal watches. The circuit board pattern is drawn twice using a laser irradiation process, once prior to the black IP coating, and then again after. According to G-SHOCK, this process gives the pattern a depth that would not othe...
Revolution
Wei and Jeremiah take a first look at calendar watches from IWC’s new Portofino collection that feel right at home on the wrist and are available at completely attractive price points. The 40mm Portofino Perpetual Calendar is probably one of the most legible perpetual calendars on the market today and also one of the most […]
SJX Watches
A frequent partner of notable personalities ranging from artists to celebrity chefs, Hublot’s most notable collaboration is the partnership with Takashi Murakami, the Japanese contemporary artist whose “Superflat”, anime-inspired art has gained acclaim and spawned a commercial empire. Having two sold-out Murakami editions under its belt, Hublot now debuts a third, the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Black Ceramic Rainbow. More specifically, it’s a single unique wristwatch, along with a dozen more (slightly less) unique watches, for a total of 13. They will be sold via a lottery that can be entered only by owners of the non-fungible tokens (NFT) that were given to owners of the first two editions, the monochromatic original in black diamonds and its chromatic opposite, the transparent and technicolour Sapphire Rainbow. Hublot chief executive Ricardo Guadalupe (left) with Takashi Murakami at the launch event in New York Initial thoughts While Hublot puts out many collaboration editions, too many by my estimation, the Murakami watches stand out for being visually simple yet striking. And they have a whimsical aspect that captures Murakami’s style perfectly. The 13 unique editions combine the best of the prior two editions – the rainbow flower from the sapphire model with the all-black ceramic case. The monochromatic case is a perfect canvas for the rainbow flower, the essence of Murakami. And in terms of value, the Murakami watches – at least the first and cur...
Worn & Wound
The small world of high-end steel chronographs gets a little bigger today with the introduction of a new Overseas Chronograph reference from Vacheron Constantin featuring a ‘Panda’ dial colorway. The Overseas Chronograph has seen a range of colorways over the years, including a reverse panda that currently exists in the collection, but never a white/silver base dial with contrasting black sub-dials. As this colorway is known to do on already handsome watches (and even some not so handsome watches), it looks pretty damn good. As presented here, we’re left with what might be the cleanest manifestation of the Overseas Chronograph design to date. The Overseas collection was first launched in 1996 (though it is the spiritual successor to the 222 first introduced in the mid ‘70s), and the Overseas Chronograph has seen a variety of executions in that time. In 2016, the watch welcomed the in-house caliber 5200 which moved the distinctive dual-aperture date complication to a single aperture at 4:30. It also gained a couple of millimeters in the process, going from 40mm to 42.5mm in diameter, and to 13.7mm in thickness. That said, it’s still a pretty nice watch on the wrist, as the case tapers under the bezel, and it’s a pretty flat profile along the bottom, so while it’s not wearing quite as trim as something like a Daytona (the 4130 caliber shares the same dimensions as the 5200 btw), it’s indeed more comfortable than you might expect. The real star of the show h...
Worn & Wound
Louis Erard has unveiled their first new watches of 2023, and they build on one of the brand’s key developments from last year. Usually when this brand comes to mind, enthusiasts think of their watches with regulator layouts, and the many interesting collaborations they’ve undertaken in the last few years as they’ve really gained traction with collectors. The Petite Seconde, part of their Excellence collection, is perhaps a little slept on by comparison. These are simple three handers, and not as flashy or unusual as the regulators (well, except for this one), but they have a charm of their own and represent a kind of simple, elegant watch that used to be quite common but is now harder to find in an environment dominated by sport and tool watches. The new watches introduced today all use plenty of vibrant color, and come in a case size that collectors have been asking for. The 39mm Petite Seconde case seen here made its debut just about a year ago with the Petite Seconde Terracotta, a coppery, earthy spin on a traditional format. Until that point, the Petite Seconde had only been available in a 42mm case, which while not enormous by most standards, certainly stretched the limits for a watch of this type, which is at least attempting to approach a certain level of refinement. Notably, the Terracotta was available in either a 39mm or 42mm case, while no such option has been made available for this colorful trio. We’re not sure if that’s a signal that Louis Erard ...
Time+Tide
A decade after its first release, the MB&F; LM2 is back in a special palladium case Symmetrically opposed balance wheels connected by a planetary differential Movement developed by Jean-François Mojon of Chronode and finished by Kari Voutilainen By this point, it should be no surprise that whatever comes out of the fun factory in the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: MB&F; LM2 Palladium celebrates its 10-year anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Accutron Astronaut is being reissued with incredible accuracy The Bulova Lunar Pilot is getting rid of the date and coming down to 43.5mm The Lunar Pilot will also be available in a blue and white colour scheme The 1960s space age was an incredible time for the progression of technology, even if NASA was … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulova Lunar Pilot and Accutron Astronaut prepare for lift off once again appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The world’s biggest luxury brand, Louis Vuitton has in recent years revealed steadily growing ambitions in haute horlogerie, especially after its acquisition of Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique de Temps (LFDT). To celebrate the 200th anniversary of the birth of its namesake founder, the brand created the Tambour Jacquemart Minute Repeater “200 Years”. Conceived by LFDT, the Tambour “200 Years” is a one-of-a-kind timepiece that demonstrates its watchmaking division’s mastery of fine watchmaking as well as its appreciation of artisanal craftsmanship: the movement combines both a minute repeater and automaton, while the dial is enamel miniature painting by none other than Anita Porchet. Initial thoughts Some two years in the making, the Tambour “200 Years ” exemplifies Louis Vuitton’s development as a maker of haute horlogerie. The movement is impressively complicated, while the dial is nuanced and artisanal. Granted, the watch is huge at almost 48 mm, so it’s far from subtle, but that reflects the house style of Louis Vuitton. The dial in particular reveals the thought that went into its conception and execution, with the cosmos represented by shaded, translucent blue enamel that is nearly ethereal and complemented by automaton elements sculpted in white gold. The impressionistic depiction of the night sky and planets brings to mind Stanley Kubrick’s sci-fi classic 2001: A Space Odyssey. The Tambour “200 Years” is actually the se...
Time+Tide
Seiko’s latest addition to the Speedtimer line of chronographs sports a sinister new black finish The 8R46 column wheel caliber offers solid value for an in-house chrono movement The dial’s look is based on a historical Seiko stopwatch from the 1970s Seiko was the first to market with the automatic chronograph, the original Speedtimer 6139, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph SRQ045 conjures black magic from a historical stopwatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Highly regarded for its artisanal movement finish, Atelier de Chronométrie relied entirely on vintage movements that were rebuilt and then decorated by hand. Now the brand finally has a movement to call its own with the M284. Vintage inspired like its timepieces, the M284 is a hand-wind calibre that makes its debut inside the AdC22 wristwatch. Initial thoughts AdC started out with watches that were equipped with refinished vintage movements that were beautifully decorated but not quite original enough to be special. The new proprietary movement – which has both fine finishing and tasteful design – elevates the brand to another level entirely. The classical layout, frequency, and short power reserve of just 38 hours seem to imply that the movement might be derived from a vintage ebauche, or at least built according to the architecture of a vintage movement. However, AdC states that the movement is a new construction done with the help of a specialist. Regardless of its origins, the M284 is a calibre executed well both in terms of design and decoration, as would be expected given AdC’s past work. Having examined several of prior AdC watches in detail, I imagine the M284 is finished extremely well and certainly on part with equivalent offerings from contemporary independent watchmakers. But AdC has the advantage of Mr Martinez’s aesthetic sensibility, which is perhaps even rarer than good movement decoration today. The design is clearly vintage inspired, but with sub...
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