Hodinkee
Auctions: Henry Ford II's Solid Gold 18K Rolex Day-Date Is Up For Grabs At Christie's
“The desire of gold is not for gold. It is for the means of freedom and benefit” – Ralph Waldo Emerson
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Hodinkee
“The desire of gold is not for gold. It is for the means of freedom and benefit” – Ralph Waldo Emerson
Deployant
Marking the 15th anniversary of the brand’s most robust and distinctive collection, Ball launches the new Engineer Hydrocarbon Original. We had the watch as a daily beater for about a week, and here is our in-depth review, and explore the technical features. Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Original Ref. DM2118B-SCJ-BK Retail price: SGD 4,250 inclusive of GSTRead More
Time+Tide
If you, like many others, stumbled across the watch collecting hobby entirely by yourself, you know that feeling of loneliness. You may spend hours perfecting a wrist shot to show off your grail purchases, incredible bargains, or vintage eBay snipes, only to have friends and family snub you by exclaiming, “You bought another watch?” Well, … ContinuedThe post Do your friends think watch collecting is strange? These are the best watches to get your friends into watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The quintessential Bell & Ross aviation-instrument wristwatch has been given a winter camouflage outfit – the BR 03-92 White Camo has a black ceramic case with a high-contrast, winter-camo pattern dial. And in keeping with B&R;’s frequent iteration of military themes, this is also the third BR 03-92 dressed in camouflage, having been preceded by black and green variants. Initial thoughts Though popular in streetwear, white camouflage is unusual in watches. Compared with the preceding versions, the White Camo model has a more lively look that is distinctly less military looking. It is perhaps the most striking watch in the current BR 03 line-up, alongside the Full Lum. In typical Bell & Ross style, the dial, and especially the case, are well executed. The dial, for instance, has a sandwich construction: the upper dial has cut-outs for the numerals, allowing the lower disc clad in luminescent material to shine through. And the case is neatly-machined black ceramic, secured by four screws in a, well, sandwich-like construction. Arguably the only average bit is the Sellita SW300 inside. A clone of the tried-and-tested ETA 2892, the movement is perfectly appropriate for the US$3,800 price tag, which also makes this one of the more affordable ceramic-case watches. Added to that a simple but recognisable design, and the White Camo is a rather appealing proposition for an accessibly-priced sports watch. White and black Being black ceramic, the case recedes into the backgroun...
SJX Watches
Founded by a pair of Japanese watchmakers, Kikuchi Nakagawa got its start in 2018 with the launch of the Murakumo, a time-only wristwatch inspired by the Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 of the 1930s. Now the duo once again look to Swiss watchmaking of the same period for the Ichimonji. Kikuchi Nakagawa’s newest watch sticks to the elegantly focused formula that defined the Murakumo – a black-polished steel case, along with hand-made hands, and a Vaucher movement. The emphasis is recreating the vintage aesthetic as well as honing the case finishing to the highest level. Initial thoughts The appeal of the Ichimonji is very much like that of its predecessor. It looks and feels like a vintage watch, but not quite, because it is clearly finished to a far higher level, a quality that is discernible in how the surfaces catch the light. Design wise the watch faithfully recreates the sensation of a vintage watch, but elevates it to another level of refinement thanks to a keen attention to detail. Take for instance the hour numerals for five and seven, which have been replaced with dots in order to avoid cutaway numerals. And the external finishing of the watch is similarly elevated. In fact, there is likely no other watch in this price segment with a similarly finished case. The case is polished by hand as a movement component would be, as are the hands. While the baton-shaped hands appear similar at a glance, but are actually three dimensional and hand finished to create br...
Time+Tide
With eBay being one of the largest marketplaces in the world, the go-to platform for sellers looking to find buyers for their goods, it can be home to some of the most desired and in-demand products worldwide – including watches. While some have hesitated to take the plunge on a watch purchase via the site, … ContinuedThe post The most expensive watches sold on eBay in 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The perpetual calendar is widely recognised as one of IWC’s greatest strengths. Back in the 1980s, legendary watchmaker Kurt Klaus was challenged to develop a new version of this highly intricate mechanism. He responded with an ingenious upgrade that essentially streamlined the complication by doing away with the correctors and enabling the calendar functions to … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition would make Kurt Klaus smile appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Announced alongside the exceptional but exorbitant Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary, the Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Edition Re-Creation (ref. SBGW260) is a hand-wound remake of the ref. 3180 of 1960, the first-ever Grand Seiko. And it is a Grand Seiko, but commemorates the 140 years since the founding of Seiko. Notably, its in 18k rose gold, a metal that’s rarely used by Grand Seiko. And although the 9S64 movement inside is an existing calibre, it’s finished more elaborately compared to earlier versions of the movement. Initial thoughts Being a faithful remake, the SBGW260 has the same appeal as the vintage-original Grand Seiko “First”. Although the colour scheme is unusual for a Grand Seiko – this is the first 3180 remake, and one of the few Grand Seikos, in rose gold – the warm palette suits the vintage style. But more notable is the movement upgrade in terms of decoration. Though still the same workhorse 9S64 found in all remakes of the “First”, the movement has been dressed up blued screws and straight graining on the bridges – plus a solid-gold plate for the anniversary – giving it a look usually associated with higher-end Seiko watches, but is increasingly being rolled out across the price spectrum. It isn’t quite the haute horlogerie finish found on movements made at the Micro Artist Studio, but the decoration appears comparable to Swiss brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre, which is to say it’s fine but workmanlike. And while it is hearte...
Time+Tide
Being quarantined in our homes this year has encouraged us to binge more series and films than ever before. Fortunately, it’s the golden age of TV dramas, which means you don’t have to re-watch an episode of The Office or Seinfeld for the 100th time. One such show that has recently taken Netflix by storm is … ContinuedThe post Bulova makes a scene-stealing cameo in Netflix’s “The Queen’s Gambit” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Join Kaz and Mike as they take things back to their roots. This week, the guys thought it would be fun to highlight some ideal watch purchase options for $200 or below… well below. Tune in, and find some of the best dress, sport, and wildcard watches in that “sweet spot” TBWS price bracket.
Revolution
Somewhere over the rainbow, in cases made of gold there exist series of highly lacquered dials in a kaleidoscope of hues. But where did the name Stella dial originate from, why did Rolex make such a dial and how can they be differentiated?
Deployant
Bell & Ross continues to innovate their design, and just released, is the new White Camo in the BR 03-02 line. Here is our hands-on review. The theme is military. Bell & Ross began their venture into the military with the Phantom concept, released in 2007 and the Commando in 2009. The launch of theseRead More
Time+Tide
If you have been holding your breath for the 5711 you put your name down for seven years ago, it’s time to listen to Queen Elsa and let it go – alternatively, you’ll suffocate. Like all watch manufacturers in these unprecedented times, Patek Philippe has taken a hit to its productivity for the year, enduring … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Patek Philippe production is down 30% due to COVID-19 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Christie’s in Hong Kong is offering an extraordinary Patek Philippe ref. 1518 with Charles Stern’s unique and historically important ruby dial.
Time+Tide
Watching on from the sidelines, consumers on social media constantly beg the watch industry to put the novel in novelties, asking for original, fresh, and forward-thinking designs in a conventional and traditional industry. Instead, we get 1mm variations in size, a new dial colour, and the crowd goes wild to the extent that boggles the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Magma is the creativity you asked for, but do you really want it? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One of the earliest entrants in the luxury-sports watches segment, the Girard-Perragaux Laureato made its debut in 1975. But the model did not remain in production consistently, and only recently enjoyed a revival with a relaunch in 2017. With its relaunch, the Laureato line up now includes complications like the tourbillon, exotic case materials like sapphire, and onyx stone dials. The latest is perhaps the most striking version to date: the Laureato Ghost that was designed in collaboration with Bamford Watch Department (BWD) and rendered entirely in white ceramic. George Bamford with the Laureato Ghost Founded by George Bamford, the fashion and watch entrepreneur who’s the son of construction-equipment tycoon Sir Anthony Bamford, BWD started out as an after-market customiser of Rolex watches and swiftly became one of the preeminent brands in that niche. But BWD has since evolved into an officially-endorsed customiser (albeit not by Rolex), having received the stamp of approval from various watchmakers, most notably from the brands owned by LVMH, namely TAG Heuer and Zenith. The Laureato Ghost is the first collaboration between BWD and Girard-Perregaux (GP), having been rolled out for the 45th anniversary of the Laureato, explaining the small, 45-piece run. Initial thoughts Named Ghost because of its singular colour palette, the watch is attractive in its simplicity. BWD’s house style is often characterised by an all-black finish, making the all-white Laureato Ghos...
Time+Tide
Pilot’s watches have always been a strong category for watch consumers around the world, drawing an emotional and heritage-driven connection to the symbiosis between aviation and horology. Inspired by a Harrier XV741 flown in a 1969 Transatlantic Air Race from London to New York, AVI-8 offers a value-driven pilot’s watch designed with a clear and detailed … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Despite my Nordic roots and name, it’s beginning to occur to me that I’m not cool enough for the new Linde Werdelin. The Swiss-Danish watchmaker is well known for their decidedly strong design language. Increasingly, they’re nearly as well known for their stoic refusal to be deterred from banking all on it. Today, it’s the … ContinuedThe post The full story behind the Electric Feels of the Linde Werdelin Oktopus Blue Sea, a late-night disco diver for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Ever since it was first introduced in 1992, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control collection has been getting impressive updates that reflect the Maison’s respect for tradition and the never-ending quest for innovation. This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre relaunched the Master Control collection with some incredible timepieces that ooze class and style. Drawing inspiration from their own previous classic round watches of the 1950’s, such as Powermatic, Memovox and Futurematic models, the brand has given these new timepieces a modern update with some 21st-century flair. With this new collection, Jaeger-LeCoultre didn’t settle on paying homage to a single historical reference timepiece. Instead, the brand used several models, and their emblematic complications from the past as inspiration to make up the new Master Control collection. For the 21st century update, Jaeger-LeCoultre has redesigned almost every element of the Master Control line. The designers have gone the extra length to best highlight the complications of these new timepieces while showcasing their aesthetic prowess. Before we dive into one of the exceptional timepieces from the latest Master Control collection, it wouldn’t do it justice to know what really inspired the creation of the Master Control line back in 1992. When the collection was first launched in 1992, the Master Control Line was in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s collection of watches to carry the ‘1000 Hours Control’ certification. This is in fact ...
SJX Watches
Both an engraver and self-taught watchmaker, Artur Akmaev was born in Moscow but has called Los Angeles home since 2017. He specialises in highly decorative, but also affordable, skeleton watches, each a one-off and often customised to the client’s specific requests. And he occasionally works with other watchmakers – Mr Akmaev was responsible for the movement engraving on the Infinity Series made by fellow California watchmaker Joshua Shapiro. Many of Mr Akmaev’s creations are inspired by pop culture – both Batman and The Avengers can be found on the dials of his earlier creations – and his latest wristwatch draws on 1980s video game Battle City, where the player has to destroy enemy tanks on a grid-like arena. Designed by Mr Akmaev’s sister, Dinara, an artist specialising in jewellery design, the Battle City watch is hand-engraved and enamelled, both on the dial as well as the movement. Initial thoughts The versatility of Mr Akmaev’s skill is surprising – he can transform any idea into decoration for a watch. Admittedly, not all have the same appeal. Some look a bit much for a watch dial, but others, like the new Battle City, work surprisingly well. The scale of the decoration of Battle City suits a watch dial perfectly, while its various elements like tanks and brick surface are ideal for engraving and enamelling. In fact, the three-dimensionality of the Battle City dial is surprising, given that the dial has to fit in in the 1.5 mm space between the mov...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
This is it. We've done 200 episodes.And @brodinkee is here to talk about some of the cringiest trends on social and blog that need to die.You aren't getting rid of us. We're here to stay.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Sir Thomas Sean Connery - a staple of masculinity and an icon in the realm of watch enthusiasts has passed. This week, Kaz & Mike take some time to evaluate watches that the ultimate giga-chad wore both on- and off-screen... with some affordable alternatives for you to consider.
Quill & Pad
Ming Thein kindly discussed a far-ranging set of questions on his past, present, and future with GaryG. What follows are what Gary considers the best of many highlights of that revealing chat.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
“I guess I have a backup if need be,” Conners conceded. “And I always did love Travolta in those talking baby movies…”
Two Broke Watch Snobs
"To my beloved Janet, I wish to honor our original agreement of ‘until death do we part’-and so I’ll be parting you with my Newman in tow..."
Time+Tide
Watch enthusiasts and automotive enthusiasts have a lot in common. It’s not just that the demographics intersect, but there is definitely a link in the appreciation for outstanding feats of engineering. Both can be artistic expressions, with form meeting function, and both can be all-out utilitarian objects with pure performance in mind. The TAG Heuer … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer X Grand Prix de Monaco Historique Limited Edition is a red rocket for the wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Watch designs can be very homogenous at times, with brands capitalising on iconic silhouettes and forms to elevate their offerings. Grand Seiko, among other manufacturers, never utilises borrowed design and constantly puts the “novel” in novelties with fresh releases than can be easily spotted from across the room. Through their pillars of design, the brand … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGJ241 GMT, only the second vertical striped dial of this kind appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Combining an unusual variety of complications that nevertheless go well aesthetically, the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is the latest tourbillon wristwatch from Jaeger-LeCoultre, which has made something of a speciality in iterating its tourbillon movements with various additional complications. Powered by the newly-developed cal. 983, the new watch features a moon phase, pointer date, and tourbillon regulator. And its case is made of Le Grand rose gold, a fade-resistant gold alloy unveiled only earlier in the year. Initial thoughts The Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon is a handsome watch executed in the typical Jaeger-LeCoultre style. The design is classical, with a handful of details that refine the look, including the applied hour markers and metal-deposition moon phase scale. And the movement is decorated well, though largely by mechanical methods, and the result is visually appealing. But it is a bit large at 41.5 mm in diameter, and also thick at 12.1 mm high – giving it dimensions similar to a sports chronograph. The cal. 983 in the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Moon And the retail price of US$88,500 is high. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s strength is haute horlogerie in the middle of the price segment – though it’s been drifting upwards – alongside brands like Ulysse Nardin and H. Moser & Cie. But both those brands recently launched tourbillons of comparable quality – the Blast and Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon respectively – that cost less. Master To...
Hodinkee
A stealthy steel field watch with matte ceramic coating and a legible luminous dial.
Hodinkee
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