Deployant
The Collector’s View: Sarpaneva K3 Northern Stars
the collector's view sarpaneva k3 northern stars
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Deployant
the collector's view sarpaneva k3 northern stars
Deployant
What do you do when your early product is already uber cool…where do you go from uber cool? Felix Baumgartner (not the sky diving dare devil…the watchmaking genius) shows the way. I get to wear the Urwerk watches…all 3 super duper ultra cool watches in one evening…and lived to tell the tale. The year wasRead More
Deployant
Glashutte Original’s factory is almost right next door to Lange’s at Altenberger Strasse in Glashutte. The brands do share some common origins, both pointing to Ferdinand Aldophe Lange. Amongst the watches GO produces, some are very nice, but none nicer to my eyes than the Pano Retro Graph…a beautiful movement… The movement is nicely laidRead More
SJX Watches
Laurent Ferrier’s Sport Traveller is a meaningful addition to its collection of sport watches. While the brand’s convenient push-button dual-time complication is not new, it has never been available in the go-anywhere, do-anything format of the Sport line - where it arguably makes the most sense. It’s also the first time this travel complication has been paired with one of the brand’s lever escapement movements, a change that should provide the resilience against shocks that one expects from a sport watch. Initial thoughts The sport has proven to be one of Laurent Ferrier’s most popular watches, introducing the brand to a wider audience by combining sports watch ruggedness with the high-horology independent watchmaking that the brand has become famous for. In this sense, the Sport Traveller is similar in philosophy to other luxury sport watches. That said, few manage to elevate the concept quite as high as Laurent Ferrier. The A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus and F.P. Journe Octa Sport Titanium are natural peers, as is the Patek Philippe 5164, but only the latter offers a travel time complication. The Sport Traveller is made from grade 5 titanium for a featherweight wrist presence, and debuts in what is likely to be a popular grey-on-grey colourway. Even the Sport Traveller dial text is grey, blending in with the dial to help keep the clutter to a minimum. The cal. LF275.01 continues the monochromatic look with grey-coated bridges and a solid platinum oscillating wei...
Some gifts last a season, and others last a lifetime. When it comes to celebrating the passion, pride, and pure chaos that define college football, few brands understand the emotional stakes quite like AXIA Time. In addition to being the Official Timepiece of the Heisman Trophy for its second year, they also return this year as the Official Timepiece of the College Football Playoff. AXIA continues to do what it does best: transform season-defining triumphs into Swiss-made timepieces worthy of the journey that led there. For the super fan in your life, the one who can recite bowl history by heart and still gets misty replaying their favorite fourth-quarter comeback, this year’s College Football Playoff collection lands right on time. The post The Ultimate Gift Guide for the College Football Playoff Super Fan in Your Life with AXIA Time appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
J.N. Shapiro’s Infinity Series Pure is a new entry point into the American brand. This follows the top-of-the-line Resurgence, the most American-made mechanical wristwatch built since Hamilton shut down in the 1960s. This new model focuses purely on the dial and hands, which are excellent, while trusting Swiss suppliers with ancillary details like the case and caliber. The result is a much more accessible, though less impressive, watch than J.N. Shapiro’s usual fare. Initial Thoughts When the original Infinity line was discontinued in 2023, it left the brand without an entry-level watch, and the company put all of its efforts behind the ambitious Resurgence project. Now that things have settled down, the team once again has the bandwidth to support a second model. The Infinity Series Pure uses an off-the-shelf La Joux-Perret (LJP) movement. While a good, slim movement with an extended power reserve, the LJP F200/7380 isn’t particularly premium, and a downgrade from the UWD cal. 33.1 used in previous infinity models. For example, Ralph Lauren uses the LJP movement in its Vintage 67 line priced at around US$3,000. The case is also outsourced, likely to a Swiss manufacturer, through the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA), a consortium of independent brands that J.N. Shapiro helped found. This focuses all of Shapiro’s attention on the dial and hands, though both are significantly less complex than on the Resurgence. At US$26,000 the Infinity Series Pure is about a ...
Monochrome
Pascal Raffy’s acquisition of the historical Swiss watch brand Bovet in 2001 was accompanied by an ambitious dream of reviving the brand as a temple of decorative arts and Haute Horlogerie. Towering above conventional watchmakers with its complex in-house movements, dramatically staged complications, and lavish artistic flourishes, Bovet’s watches are as unique as they are […]
Time+Tide
The sports watch-focused Swiss brand gives their rugged integrated sports watch a sleek, monochromatic titanium makeover.The post Alpina introduces its first-ever all-titanium watch, a 39mm Alpiner Extreme Automatic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A record was set last night in Geneva when the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A “Children Action” sold for CHF6.7 million, equivalent to US$7.56 million. The result surpasses the US$6.5 million for the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany & Co.” that was set in 2021, the very peak of the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch craze. The fad for such sports watches has since petered out, but anything Patek Philippe that’s unique clearly remains highly desirable. The record price is arguably less about the watch being a Nautilus than it is a one-off, fully-engraved Patek Philippe. This year’s auction once again took place during the charity’s dinner event in an auction conducted by Aurel Bacs of Phillips. Both room and phone bidders competing for the Nautilus that is entirely engraved with a “Maori-inspired” theme on its case and bracelet, with only the polished centre links of the bracelet left unadorned. The Geneva watchmaker has long supported Children Action, which aids disadvantaged children around the world. The organisation was founded by Bernard Sabrier, a well-connected private banker in Geneva. The ref. 5270T-010 of 2022 Over the years, Patek Philippe has contributed one-of-a-kind watches that sell at the organisation’s annual gala dinner, raising tens of millions for the charity. Past Children Action watches have included the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium that sold for CHF2.3 million in 2018. And two years ago, the ref. 5270...
SJX Watches
Mechanical escapements remain the most fascinating and enticing field of horological study even in the 21st century. At its core, an escapement has a simple purpose: restore lost energy to the oscillating organ while regulating the discharge speed of the going train – thus allowing for time measurement. Straightforward as the concept is, executing an escapement well is a completely different affair. The escapement is perhaps the element of the mechanical movement that has undergone the most iterations since its invention. The reason is simple: escapements were, and remain, imperfect systems. In fact, the escapement is often the least efficient aspect of a mechanical movement in terms of energy transfer. That’s why watchmakers and engineers have devised innumerable variants in the search of the ideal escapement. Explaining escapement efficiency In physics the efficiency of a system is the proportion of useful work done relative to the total work done by said system. The result, measured as a percentage, speaks to the energy conserved within the system. For example, an 80% efficiency means that 20% of the total available energy is lost, with the remaining 80% usefully conserved. That said, an efficient escapement isn’t necessarily chronometrically-potent, since there are more criteria, apart from energy conservation, which reflect in a movement’s accuracy. The way in which escapement parts impulse to the balance, the proximity of the equilibrium point and the deg...
Time+Tide
It features a unique, completely analogue instrument cluster that's actually crafted by Swiss watchmakers and looks like three watches.The post Bugatti’s latest hypercar, the Tourbillon, might be the most watch-inspired vehicle ever made appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Recently, we co-organized a watch event with ten independent watch brands, welcoming close to 200 guests and spoiling everyone with Michelin-star food and bites, bubbles (and beer), and great coffees prepared by a barista. During the two-day event, appropriately named Taste of Time, the presentations given by the participating brands garnered as much attention as […]
Worn & Wound
It’s always a special occasion when two innovative brands partner with one another to create something truly unique. Take, for example, the Sequent SolarCharger F**KING SUN watch, a product made in collaboration between Swiss smartwatch brand Sequent and Seconde/Seconde, a Paris-based artist who uses humor and street art-inspired design to mod vintage watches for the Banksy generation. Romaric André, the mind behind Seconde/Seconde, was tapped by Sequent to add his specific style to their SolarCharge model. With a bit of tongue-and-cheek humor, André balances a minimalist dial with a cartoonish delight. Sequent may be looking to renewable energy sources (like solar), all while Seconde/Seconde’s biting commentary on how the myopic view of everyday problems (like a melting ice cream cone, as seen on the subdial) blinds us to the potential that’s still out there. This collab is a perfect pairing between the often-cited stereotype of Swiss orderliness and the Paris artist’s whimsical cynicism. Adrian Bachmann, CEO and co-founder of Sequent, seems to agree, having added his support of this partnership, “When [André] landed us his first draft, I loved the idea and meaning of it immediately.” Apart from the aesthetics of the watch itself, the Sequent is a great reinterpretation of the smartwatch. While it looks like a standard analog watch, its functionality has all the high-tech gadgetry expected for those looking for a smartwatch that’s designed for health moni...
Time+Tide
Blackpink star Lisa was made a Bulgari ambassador in 2020 Their new collaboration has a crazy triple-hue dial It features a loving tribute to her Swiss step-dad Not too long ago in 2022, my first exposure to South Korean stars in the realm of Swiss watches was a photoshoot with heartthrob Hyun Bin wearing the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bulgari Bulgari x Lisa has a crazy dial you’ve never seen before appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Paying a visit to Bernhard Lederer’s atelier in St. Blaise, Wei nerds out with the German Master Watchmaker about a crucial component in a watch’s movement, the escapement, which has undergone hundreds of years of innovation. Lederer expounds on the efforts by past masters, Abraham-Louis Breguet and George Daniels to develop the perfect escapement and […]
Hodinkee
He's the founder of Cloister Watch Co., and he's joining me on my custom crusade.
Time+Tide
You don’t need the statistics to tell you that Apple Watches sell more than the rest of the Swiss watch industry combined. You need only to glance at people’s wrists. You can’t miss those sleek square slabs. They’re everywhere. Worn by every age group, in every profession. I’ve been told they’re particularly popular among undertakers, … ContinuedThe post The only thing I want buzzing on my wrist is a Memovox. Why I’ll never wear an Apple Watch… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Let’s get this straight at the outset: you should go easy on the watch shots full-stop. Unless you’re taking a pic to share with a fellow watch lover, snapping close-ups of your shiny new wrist-wear is rarely necessary or wise. But there are scenarios where it is expressly forbidden. At a wedding It’s the happy … ContinuedThe post 5 times you should never take a photo of your watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s been a very busy month in Sydney’s watch retail space with a number of brands opening their doors, and an exciting Swiss brand has entered the fray with the first ever standalone Australian Hublot boutique in Sydney. Located in the heart of Sydney on King Street, the new space embodies the brand’s motto of … ContinuedThe post The first ever Australian Hublot boutique in Sydney offers an exciting future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With Only Watch 2019 now just a mere 11 days away from kicking off, we thought we’d take a look at Blancpain’s Only entrant – the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda. The unique piece from the storied Swiss marque is, rather obviously, based on the standard Fifty Fathoms Barakuda. However, the Only Watch Barakuda sports very … ContinuedThe post The only Barakuda you’ll ever need – the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda Only Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Back at the beginning of 2013, as a result of kissing goodbye to a couple of watches (mistakes) from my collection, I found myself in the rather fortunate position of needing a new daily timepiece. The buying criteria was fairly simple and straightforward: the new watch needed to be a diver, automatic, Swiss made and … ContinuedThe post Why this Longines is the best watch I’ve ever owned appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Just quietly, the Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic is an incredible amount of watch for the money. Cool dial, modern bells and whistles, and a strong power reserve. And it looks good. This is such a great watch. Honestly. I can’t think of many (if any) Swiss-made watches that offer such a punchy package … ContinuedThe post The value proposition on this Tissot is next-level. Seriously, it’s a lot of watch for the money appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Mark Wahlberg, eh. This guy! Actor, entrepreneur and unfettered watch lover who doesn’t care - not even a tiny bit - about what you think of his horological choices. And with his exciting combination of lack of you-know-whats to give and a surplus of funds comes the kind of freedom that allows his wrist to live its best … ContinuedThe post LIST: 4 watches Mark Wahlberg wears on a daily basis that you’ll never, ever have the stones to appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
A first for the watch industry: Zenith will be officially opening its manufacture doors to the public, with a tour that encompasses the spirit of Swiss watchmaking.
Time+Tide
Bremont have relied on old-fashioned techniques to build their business. Firstly, they made a pretty great product. Anyone who’s held a Bremont in their hands will attest to that. They put their watch in a movie. They make watches for the military. And when it came to spreading the word in America, co-founders of Bremont, … ContinuedThe post EVENT: Never mind the bollards, this is the Bremont ‘English Tour’ of America appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
What do you do when a car manufacturer doesn’t build the car you want? For just about anyone of us, it means moving to another brand or hoping your preferred manufacturer introduces something that scratches your itch down the line. However, if you’re into the coachbuilding business, or have the funds to enlist the help […]
SJX Watches
Monaco Legend Auctions is closing the year with one of its biggest auctions to date, with one of the top lots being a stellar Rolex ref. 6062 Oyster triple calendar in steel with gold-tone indices. An eighty year-old watch that feels original and honest, this ref. 6062 is only on its second owner in all that time, adding to its appeal. Already a rare watch in itself, this specific ref. 6062 stands out for its condition. It appears to have been worn carefully over the decades, while also having avoided being facelifted or enhanced. And of course this is an Oyster, meaning the case is water resistant, which no doubtlessly helped to preserve the dial. As a result, this ref. 6062 possesses its original details, including the shallow engraving on the case back and twin textures on the dial. Initial thoughts Though overshadowed by sports watches in the last decade, the triple calendar has long been one of the most desirable vintage Rolex models. And Rolex recently revived the concept with the Perpetual Padellone, which, despite the name, actually inspired by the ref. 6062 Oyster rather than the ref. 8171 “Padellone”. The ref. 6062 coming up in Monaco Legend’s auction at month’s end is one of the best examples to hit the block in some time. It’s in steel, which makes it more valuable than the equivalent gold model. And this has known, traceable provenance – just two owners in some 80 years – and as a result of that, the condition is original, crisp, and appealing....
Time+Tide
This week, we kick off with an octagonal Casio and a skeletonised Renaud Tixier; two watches that couldn't be more different if they tried.
Monochrome
Sometimes, a racing car that looks very promising on paper never gets the chance to shine and reach its full potential. Rule changes, troubled development stages, reliability issues during its maiden races or even car manufacturers going bust midway through a project – it’s all part of the fascinating world of motorsports. One such car […]
Hodinkee
The small German town of Glashütte is paradise for watch nerds. Some people don’t quite believe how densely packed the watchmaking is in this little town in Saxony, with the biggest German horological names literally next door to each other. But undoubtedly the most iconic name in Glashütte watchmaking (and German high horology in general) is A. Lange & Söhne, and the manufacturer rarely opens its doors to outsiders to take a closer look at what the brand is up to. Earlier this year, during the rainy month of July, a few of us on the Hodinkee editorial team hopped over to Glashütte to see what was happening within the secretive walls of the Lange, and to say that the visit was unforgettable is surely the understatement of the century. There’s still lots to come from our visit, but one of the best moments of the few days I spent there was, well, looking at watches—very special watches though, pulled from the Lange archives. The Designs Behind The Revival Kicking it off are three of modern A. Lange & Söhne's inaugural silhouettes in yellow gold, representing the then-new designs unveiled by Günter Blümlein on October 24th, 1994. That day, of course, marked a pivotal moment that not only revived the A. Lange & Söhne name after a long period of dormancy, but also set a new standard for what high-end watchmaking meant in the mid-nineties, especially among its Swiss contemporaries. The Lange 1 could just be the most iconic model from the brand. It’s the onl...
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