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Stella Dial Rolex

1970s-80s lacquered colour dials for Rolex Day-Date; red / turquoise / salmon / lavender. Auction range $200k-$1M+.

VIDEO: See the Seiko Save The Ocean SRPE33K and SRPE39K dials for yourself (they’re insanely good for the price) Time+Tide
Seiko Save Oct 5, 2020

VIDEO: See the Seiko Save The Ocean SRPE33K and SRPE39K dials for yourself (they’re insanely good for the price)

Seiko’s “Save The Ocean” program is an important one, helping raise much-needed funds for the conservation of the planet’s oceans. You can check out a couple of the places that benefit from Seiko’s work here and here, but today we’re looking at the watches that help raise money for these critical programs. This year, it’s … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: See the Seiko Save The Ocean SRPE33K and SRPE39K dials for yourself (they’re insanely good for the price) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Introduces the Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Sep 29, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge

Having unveiled mostly simpler watches in the year so far, like the new Tradition with retrograde date, Breguet is now launching something big, both mechanically and literally. The Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 Quai de l’Horloge is, admittedly, a heavily fancied up variant of an existing model, but in typical Breguet style, it is executed to a high level of fit and finish. Originally launched in 2006 as the ref. 5347 with a guilloche dial (and subsequently as the ref. 5349 set with diamonds), the Classique Double Tourbillon has been refined and elaborated upon. It now boasts a skeletonised dial with upgraded decoration, hand-engraved bridges, as well as a thinner case band, but the watch remains enormous. Initial thoughts The original Double Tourbillon was enormous – 44 mm by 17.05 mm – with a tall, bulbous bezel that made it look even thicker. Named after the located of the original Breguet workshops in Paris, the new Double Tourbillon 5345 addresses that as much as possible by narrowing the bezel case band as much as possible, and instead using an highly-domed sapphire crystal that’s almost half the total height. It’s still a very large watch, but it looks less voluminous and massive, especially with the open-worked dial. The sapphire chapter ring for the hours and minutes that encircles the movement Decoration and materials are top class. There is a lot of decoration, but it goes well together, unlike on the original model. The decor seemed incongruous o...

The 5 best new features of the new Apple Watch Series 6, including panda dials and GMT faces Time+Tide
Sep 15, 2020

The 5 best new features of the new Apple Watch Series 6, including panda dials and GMT faces

The Apple Watch has been a point of contention with watch collectors since its debut in April of 2015. When the dust settles from the rants and snobbery, one fact becomes clear – the Apple Watch is the most complicated piece of wristwear for the dollar in the entire world. The Apple Watch Series 6 … ContinuedThe post The 5 best new features of the new Apple Watch Series 6, including panda dials and GMT faces appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Laine Watches Introduce the 13ZN Chronograph Piece Unique SJX Watches
Longines 13ZN chronograph movement while Sep 11, 2020

Laine Watches Introduce the 13ZN Chronograph Piece Unique

Best known for his affordable, customisable watches, Torsti Laine recently completed a chronograph that was several years in the making. Commissioned by one of his earliest clients, the Laine Watches AKIL13ZN Piece Unique reimagines a fabled Longines 13ZN chronograph movement, while still retaining originality in style and substance. The watch is powered by a vintage 13ZN movement that was rejuvenated by Mr Laine and matched with a newly-made case and dial inspired by chronographs of the 1930s and 1940s. Initial thoughts Even though the watch is a one-off that will not be repeated – Mr Laine is no longer making chronographs – it is a well-executed realisation of the owner’s vision that is worth a quick look. And it was also done at reasonable cost, illustrating Mr Laine’s focus on excellent but affordable watchmaking. The aesthetic is clearly vintage inspired, but done with an eye for detail that clearly came from a collector. Elements like the arrow-shaped hand on the minute register, or the large, flat crown, are small yet important in establishing the pleasing, period-correct look. Notably, the movement is nearly identical to how it was when it left the factory, having only been modestly modified. This is contrary to current tastes in refinishing vintage movements to a modern standard, but it is sensible in both aesthetics – the vintage-inspired dial and case suit the movement well – and also cost, since extensive decoration is not necessary. The watch is ...

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force: Now In Pink Gold And Black (With Live Photos) Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Now Aug 14, 2020

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force: Now In Pink Gold And Black (With Live Photos)

Gravity Equal Force marks the official beginning of a new direction at Armin Strom: with its advent the brand also launched a new collection, System 78, which builds an entry-level core on innovation and a more refined design sensibility. After the stunning success of the introductory stainless steel model, Armin Strom now offers the Gravity Equal Force in a luxurious and classic pink gold combined with black dial elements.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Aug 5, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon

Originally a series of highly-complicated, extra-large watches for men, the Royal Oak Concept line up has grown to include a handful of women’s watches, including the brand-new and extremely striking Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon. Powered by a hand-wound tourbillon movement, the Royal Oak Concept for women combines the traditional, faceted Concept with the granular Frosted Gold finish conceived by an Italian jeweller for Audemars Piguet, along with a distinctive new dial style of stacked, concentric rings. Initial thoughts When this arrived in my inbox I was quite taken by the styling. Thanks to the shapes and simple finishes, the dial and hands have a clean geometric style that works surprisingly well with the angular Concept case. And the tourbillon serves a higher, aesthetic purpose, with the cage continuing the concentric-ring motif of the dial. With the men’s Concept watches being so large they don’t really fit well on most wrists (especially due to the integrated strap), the women’s Concept at 38.5 mm in diameter probably sits well on most wrists, male or female. Given AP’s mastery of case finishing and the typically high quality of its dials, I expect the watch will be gorgeous in real life. But also given AP’s aggressively high pricing for its watches, I expect this watch to be extremely expensive (prices were not available at press time). Stepped rings The most unusual feature of the new watch is the dial design, a first for the Roy...

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook bronze collection review, with blue, green and brown dials Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook bronze collection Aug 4, 2020

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook bronze collection review, with blue, green and brown dials

By now, you should be familiar with the Rado Captain Cook collection, inspired by a historical Rado reference from the golden age of dive watches. This year, the collection has launched three new references, announcing the Rado Captain Cook bronze for the first time ever. This warmly toned coloured metal complements the already vibrant array … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook bronze collection review, with blue, green and brown dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jul 14, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph

Unveiled in 2015, the ref. 5370P-001 was Patek Philippe’s second split-seconds chronograph powered by an in-house caliber, after the watches equipped the smaller, slimmer, and far more expensive CHR 27-525 movement. With a black grand feu enamel dial featuring Breguet numerals that gave it an eminently classical style, the ref. 5370P was a hit with fans of the brand. Now the black-dial ref. 5370P has been discontinued and replaced by the Split-Seconds Chronograph Ref. 5370P-011. The new model is identical – with the same CHR 29-535 PS inside a 41 mm platinum case – except for the dial, which is now grand feu enamel in a stunning blue. Initial thoughts Like many others, I am a huge fan of the 2015 original for its balanced, restrained design that is also eminently legible and clear. As a fan of Patek Philippe’s traditional designs, the watch was also appealing for the design lineage that can be traced to Patek Philippe watches of the mid-20th century. While the original is compelling for its vintage cues, the new version feels more modern with the blue enamel dial. As a colour that’s been in vogue for a couple of years, the new dial transforms the personality of the watch into one that is more contemporary. While this facelift will undoubtedly be popular because blue dials are the colour du jour, I still have a preference for the original as the black enamel dial was more understated and in keeping with the brand’s historical designs. Precious materials Being...

Audemars Piguet add three new black-cased Royal Oak Offshore models with smoked fumé dials Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet add three new black-cased Jul 12, 2020

Audemars Piguet add three new black-cased Royal Oak Offshore models with smoked fumé dials

Audemars Piguet have been slowly but surely unveiling some quietly inspired new releases in 2020. First came the bite-the-back-of-your-hand beautiful [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph, then came a diminutive new Royal Oak 34mm. More recently, AP saw fit to bestow its much-lauded Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin with two new models – the dazzling Diamond Indexes In Platinum … ContinuedThe post Audemars Piguet add three new black-cased Royal Oak Offshore models with smoked fumé dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Two New Breguet La Tradition Models For 2020 (+ Live Photos): No Battle Of The Sexes Necessary Here Quill & Pad
Breguet La Tradition Models Jul 10, 2020

Two New Breguet La Tradition Models For 2020 (+ Live Photos): No Battle Of The Sexes Necessary Here

The drama of Breguet's La Tradition lay – and continues to lie – in its stylistically vintage appearance coupled with a movement finished using historical techniques and the extreme visibility of the mechanical components from the dial side. Here Elizabeth Doerr looks at two new models for 2020 that are bound to make you a fan of the style.

Desert Island Dials with Wei Koh Revolution
Tudor Black Bay 58 Navy Jul 10, 2020

Desert Island Dials with Wei Koh

In episode nine of Ross Povey’s Zoom video interview series, “Desert Island Dials,” where we ask some of our friends from the community what watch they would bring along with them, if they were on a desert island, this time we our own Wei Koh. Wei talks about several watches from his personal collection that many of us may be familiar with as well as his latest pickup, the Tudor Black Bay 58 Navy Blue.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 with Smoked Dials SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jul 3, 2020

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 with Smoked Dials

When it was launched in 2019, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet became the most-talked-about new releases of the year, and also of the most panned, largely for the way it was hyped before launch and the perceived plainness of the design. But Audemars Piguet is undeterred and affirmed its commitment to the new collection with the launch of a face-lifted Code 11.59 Selfwinding and Chronograph, featuring new dials with a smoked, graduated-colour finish, along with a variant in a two-colour gold case. The new Code 11.59 Selfwinding Initial thoughts The most frequent criticism against the Code 11.59 had to do with the rather bland dials of the base models. In contrast, the pricey, complicated models were the standouts of the collection, having fired enamel dials with a smoked finish (for the minute repeater and the flying tourbillon) or aventurine glass (for the perpetual calendar). Audemars Piguet doubtlessly realised the appeal of the smoked enamel dial, and followed up with the Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition, which featured the same graduated, dark blue dial in enamel, but on a time-only watch. The downside of the enamel dial on the base model is a massive price premium of over 55%, or a bit over US$14,000. Evidence that Audemars Piguet is receptive to feedback, the new dials for the Code 11.59 show how a slight tweak can completely change the visual impact of a watch. It’s highly probable that if the Code 11.59 had been launched with smoked dials in the first plac...

The Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248, a study in the magic pairing of gold and blue Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248 Jul 1, 2020

The Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248, a study in the magic pairing of gold and blue

Editor’s note: We all love blue watches. That much is clear, with the popularity of the blue dial stainless steel sports watch escalating almost beyond belief in 2019 and still in 2020. Both vintage and modern examples of blue watches from a few of the best watch manufacturers in the world command ever-increasing prices as appetites … ContinuedThe post The Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE248, a study in the magic pairing of gold and blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rémy Cools Introduces the Tourbillon Souscription SJX Watches
Breguet Jun 19, 2020

Rémy Cools Introduces the Tourbillon Souscription

A French watchmaker who is just 23 years old, Rémy Cools has just revealed the finished prototype of his debut watch, the Tourbillon Souscription. Mr Cools’ creation is a large watch with no visible crown, giving it a contemporary silhouette, but the look is still heavily classical in style, with the movement and dial strongly influenced by 19th century watchmaking, especially the work of Abraham-Louis Breguet and Jacques Frédéric Houriet according to Mr Cools. Initial thoughts I met Mr Cools at Baselworld 2019 and got to examine the unfinished prototype. It was complete and working, but had not yet been decorated. The prototype was an extremely striking watch, with a strong pocket watch aesthetic but still unique. While clearly modelled on the works of Breguet, it manages to avoid looking like a Breguet. Now that the watch is finished, it is no doubt more impressive; Mr Cools’ photos of the movement and its parts reveal an impressively high level of decoration. Two things go against the watch. One is the pair of crowns on the case back. They are easy enough to use, but feel unnecessarily complicated. The crowns, however, are probably something you get used to and forget about afterwards. The second drawback is the massive height of the watch, which is only 40 mm wide. It stands 15 mm high – including 7 mm of domed sapphire crystal – which gives it a really tall profile. And the thickness is accentuated by the relatively small diameter. That said, the height is ...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 for the New Manufacture SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 18, 2020

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava Ref. 6007A-001 for the New Manufacture

Patek Philippe’s 1,600 employees in Geneva began migrating to its expansive new headquarters last year, and now the move is almost complete. To commemorate the completion of the new manufacture, Patek Philippe has announced its very first new launch for 2020: the Calatrava ref. 6007A-001 “New Manufacture 2019”. A limited edition of 1,000 watches, the ref. 6007A has a steel case and a grey-blue dial finished with a variety of textures, including a “carbon” pattern on its centre. Initial thoughts The new ref. 6007A confirms the chatter that Patek Philippe is in the midst of evolving the Calatrava line by injecting more contemporary flair into its aesthetics, which began with last year’s quirky ref. 5212A Weekly Calendar. Though the new ref. 6007A is a very different watch – in fact, its styling brings to mind the unique ref. 5208T “Only Watch” – it too feels like a more casual take on the classic Patek Philippe gentleman’s watch. The case is steel and relatively large at 40 mm, while the dial has a sporty, instrument-like look (which can be explained by its inspiration, the speedometer-inspired ref. 6006G). Notably, the dial has a stamped guilloche centre, which is an unusual feature for a Calatrava. And it also features applied Arabic numerals in white gold, a luxe detail for a simple watch. It will doubtlessly be a lightweight, thin watch that is easy and comfortable to wear, especially since the steel case is more hardwearing than the usual 18k go...

7 Seiko mods that show why it’s becoming a big thing – from Black Bay bezels, to Yacht-master do-overs, to painted dials Time+Tide
Seiko mods Jun 17, 2020

7 Seiko mods that show why it’s becoming a big thing – from Black Bay bezels, to Yacht-master do-overs, to painted dials

Watch modification, or “modding”, is a remarkably popular subset of the watch collecting community, where enthusiasts will tinker with their watches to build totally customised pieces to wear. Without a doubt the most popular brand in the modding space is Seiko, where the combination of affordability and relatively widespread access to quality parts makes for … ContinuedThe post 7 Seiko mods that show why it’s becoming a big thing – from Black Bay bezels, to Yacht-master do-overs, to painted dials appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breguet Introduces the Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Jun 12, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia

One of the grandest and oldest watchmakers in the world, Breguet was founded in 1775 and usually sticks to watches very much rooted in tradition. Even its high jewellery timepieces are elaborate and lavish, but still old school. The new Marine Haute Joaillerie 9509 Poseidonia, however, is a strikingly lively, ocean-inspired jewellery watch. Named after the Posidonia oceanica, a seagrass found the Mediterranean sometimes known as Neptune grass, the new Marine has an iridescent mother-of-pearl dial invisibly set with 85 gemstones to form an elegant floating-seagrass motif surrounded by baguette-cut gemstones. It’s very different from the usual Breguet fare – in a good way – especially in the coloured gemstone versions. The Poseidonia is available four variations, each distinguished by the combination of gemstones. While the diamond version is set only with diamonds, the emerald, ruby, and sapphire models are each set with a variety of gems – amethysts and tsavorites on the sapphire version for instance – to create a rainbow-hued decor. The ruby And emerald Initial thoughts Breguet has a penchant for making high-jewellery timepieces inspired by nature. Thematically, the Poseidonia is no different, but it is far, far more spectacular in visual effect. Going by the photos, the watch will no doubt be dazzling and unapologetically luxe – and a world away from the restrained elegance of the Marine for men. Watches that have been liberally set with gems tend to b...

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival “Manufacture Edition” SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces May 21, 2020

Zenith Introduces the Chronomaster Revival “Manufacture Edition”

Zenith marked the 50th Anniversary of the El Primero last year with several historical remakes, including the editions for Phillips auctioneers as well as the El Primero A386 Revival, a set of watches that were a near-exact reproduction of the original. Now Zenith has debuted the final A386 remake – in steel like the original – with the Chronomaster Revival “Manufacture Edition” that’s equipped with a dial inspired by a long-forgotten prototype. Initial thoughts The Manufacture Edition is good-looking watch but a crucial factor in its appeal is the material – and price. Last year’s A386 Revival trio was only in 18k gold – one each in white, pink, and yellow gold. The Manufacture Edition is in steel, making it the most affordable A386 yet. Handsome and striking with a well-proportioned case and dial, the watch is very much a typical El Primero A386. The star of the new remake is unquestionably the dial. Employing the same tri-colour palette that’s the A386 trademark, this replaces the traditional tri-colour with different shades of the same blue, ranging from a bright azure blue to a dark midnight navy. For someone who loves the colour, this is appealing. The juxtaposition of the blue registers against the white dial promotes a stark and legible look. And it’s also worth noting the watch is not a limited edition – a wise move to avoid having unlimited limited editions – though distribution will be limited to Zenith’s e-commerce store and the ...

Desert Island Dials with Stephen Watson Revolution’s New US Editor Revolution
May 18, 2020

Desert Island Dials with Stephen Watson Revolution’s New US Editor

In episode three of Ross Povey’s Zoom video interview series, “Desert Island Dials, where we ask some of our friends from the community what watch they would bring along with them, if they were on a desert island, we have our latest US editor (@steviewatches) speaking with us today. He tells us about his Gerald Genta Automatic Jump Hour Retrograde Mickey Mouse watch and other unexpected pieces in his collection.

F.P. Journe Introduces the Quantième Perpétuel with Gold Numerals SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces May 12, 2020

F.P. Journe Introduces the Quantième Perpétuel with Gold Numerals

Introduced in 2013, the original Quantième Perpétuel was a concise perpetual calendar with useful features, as well as a peculiar, egg-shaped steel ring around the centre of the dial. Now the design has been refined – but all functionality retained – to create the new F.P. Journe Quantième Perpétuel with gold numerals. And though this was officially announced only recently, the watch has already been available at boutiques for several months. Initial thoughts Compared to the earlier F.P. Journe calendar watches, the Quantième Perpétuel was a big improvement with its highly legible display and improved user friendliness. But the first generation dial was odd because of the steel ring around the centre. That’s been changed with the new model, and the improvement is substantial. The new dial appeals because it doesn’t try too hard to be different. Instead, it differentiates itself in more subtle ways. And the boutique-only blue-dial version is unusual, which is a plus if you’re looking for something different. F.P. Journe has rarely used matte, dark blue dials on standard-production watches; historically only limited editions and custom watches had such dials. Silver and gold Borrowing the clous de Paris engine-turned centre from the Chronometre Souverain, the dial is made of solid silver, while the applied numerals and calendar window frames are solid gold. The addition of gold frames for the calendar do make the positions of the windows more obvious, whic...