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Quill & Pad
On the third cast, the nymph hits the water with a distinct plop and there is a sharp tug on the line. I instinctively set the hook, a glint of gold and brown breaks the surface. I have just caught my first wild trout.
Monochrome
Having celebrated its 150th anniversary a few years ago, Bernhard H. Mayer is a watchmaking brand with numismatic roots in Germany. With the 4th generation of the family at the helm, the company is now headquartered in Biel Switzerland. The brand’s most recent novelty, the Wave Rider is a well-specced, robust diver with a twist. […]
Time+Tide
Germany's Heinrich blends 70s and 80s style with ultra-modern material tech for its latest watch.The post Heinrich forges ahead with the new Taucher Lume Infused Forged Carbon V2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
BA111OD is still a young brand in a world of watches that is full of historical powerhouses. But ever since its founding in 2019, BA111OD has quickly made a name for itself with some interesting new ideas. There is plenty to check out, from the compelling business model to the integration of connectivity and the […] Visit Hands-On With The Striking BA111OD Chapter 4 Tourbillons to read the full article.
Fratello
Do you want to use a Seagull ST-1901 movement in your new watch? Sure, that’s no problem, but you’ll need to order a minimum of 10,000 units. That’s something you want to hear as a small brand when asking the Chinese movement manufacturer about possibly supplying you with calibers. But instead of looking for possible […] Visit Introducing: The Third-Generation Studio Underd0g 01Series - A New And Improved Breed to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Although the Voutilainen style is rooted in tradition, sometimes it encompasses less-than-conservative watches, like the Voutilainen KV20i Reversed Cherry, a colourful variant of the brand’s signature inverted-movement model. Kari Voutilainen is one of the most respected contemporary independent watchmakers - and for good reason. He has struck a perfect balance between the artisanal aspects of horology with enough business acumen to guarantee him absolute creative liberty and longevity. Despite his success, Mr Voutilainen didn’t scale up his namesake brand, instead choosing to continue making small-run timepieces. While the KV20i Reversed Cherry is not a limited edition, only a handful will be made, as is typical of the brand. Initial thoughts The Vingt-8 Reversed is a staple of the Voutilainen collection, having started five years ago with the 28TI – short for “Titanium Inverse”. An evolution of the Inverse, the KV20i Reversed is remarkably similar, although much has changed in terms of details. Voutilainen wristwatches are characterised by two key traits: impeccable movements and hand-made guilloche dials sporting deep and rich patterns. The Reversed puts the former in the front, taking the place of the dial, while guilloche is concealed on the back. While a guilloché front dial will surely be missed, the visible mechanics more than compensate. The latest incarnation of Voutilainen’s in-house cal. 28 reverses the construction, which required a number ...
Time+Tide
A new LE from the Dink, this time a classy dress watch from Chopard with a hunter caseback.The post Introducing the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer Limited Edition for Hodinkee appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
We often talk about trends in watches, as designs, materials and colours regularly follow the preferences of the public. Sometimes, though, these trends phase out very slowly or not at all. And when it comes to colour, that’s always a very enjoyable topic of debate. Take blue, for instance, which was at one point ‘the […]
Time+Tide
Is it time to reconsider how we are representing gender across the watch world? The post Under-represented and under-appreciated: Deloitte & Watch Femme’s report shines a light on women and the watch industry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Blancpain has recently expanded its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe line with three new models, each a exemplary daily wearer for the man about town. These new additions include two time-only versions and a flyback chronograph, all housed in ceramic cases.
Fratello
As a fan of GMTs, I will take every opportunity to check out watches that feature my favorite complication. When the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT landed on my desk, I was intrigued. This remake of a rare 1970s watch combines a Super Compressor-styled case with a rotating internal 24-hour GMT bezel. Combined with the charming […] Visit Hands-On With The Charming Nivada Grenchen Antarctic GMT to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Having covered independent watchmaking and metiers d’art highlights at Phillips’ upcoming Hong Kong auction, we now look at timepieces that aren’t wristwatches. The Hong Kong sale is a two-part affair: a theme sale focused on timepieces of Japanese origin christened Toki, and the The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX. Both include a notable number of pocket watches and clocks across the spectrum of style and periods, from an iconic Cartier Model A mystery clock in rock crystal to the Richard Mille RM020 pocket watch. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI lot 60 – Breguet digital jumping hours pocket watch This uncommon Breguet pocket watch with a two-tone case was sold in 1926 to a certain Mitoui T.K. for the sum on 16,000 French francs. This was a period when Breguet was making few timepieces, making watches from this era, especially complicated ones, relatively uncommon. With elegantly angled cutouts for the hour and minutes, the jumping hour display makes this watch a rarity. Similarly displays were found on wrist- and pocket watches of the time, including the Cartier Tank à Guichet. This particular piece does not bear the classic Breguet style, like the coin-edged case band or engine-turned dial. The style, however, is typical of the 1920s, though the two-tone case makes it unusual. This watch was made in France, since this was produced well before the brand’s move to the Swiss Vallée de Joux in the 1970s. The white-and-pink-gold 45 mm c...
Time+Tide
Going from making 200,000 cases a year to relaunching with a hot new dress watch, Dennison is on the up and up.The post Has Dennison risen from the dead? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Are you looking to close out the year with a bang? If so, you’d better do that with a banger of a watch that, for some reason, never found its way to your wrist. Missed opportunities are a thing of the not-so-distant past, so on my hit list are three of my favorite pre-owned watches. […] Visit The Fratello Watch List - Lex’s Pre-Owned Favorites From Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, And Rolex to read the full article.
Fratello
Praesidus is one of those brands I have quickly come to love. It focuses on introducing vintage-inspired military watches with unique stories. The brand has a knack for finding remarkable military stories and using them as inspiration for its timepieces. The latest addition to the growing lineup is the Praesidus Type H-75 Chronograph. This watch’s […] Visit Hands-On With The New Meca-Quartz Praesidus Type H-75 Chronograph to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s note: In this week’s 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Mark Alamares picks a theme and sticks with it. His collection consists of three sporty Seikos, but these are all JDM models that differ just slightly (well, sometimes more than slightly) from their counterparts available in the United States, and elsewhere. Collecting JDM Seiko is a rabbit hole within a rabbit hole, and Mark makes a compelling case for why diving into these slightly tougher to obtain Seikos is worth the additional effort. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. The theme of my $5,000 trio is Neo-Vintage (late 1990’s to early 2000’s) JDM Titanium Seiko’s that cover the gambit of Air, Land, and Sea (prior service U.S. Marine, 2001-2011). While this theme may not be for everyone, there’s a certain level of difficulty in acquiring clean examples of these watches that I must say is extremely gratifying. Much more so than just crunching the numbers and hitting your targets on the new market. You’ll have to do some research, make some connections, and enjoy a lot of insightful back-and-forth while on the hunt for a trio like this. Think niche JDM watch dealers on Instagram. So, as great as the destination is, the journey is equally as satisfying. Yes, pricing may vary depending on many external factors but in reality, I’ve never had $5,000 burning-a-hole-in-my-pocket to the point where I had to get...
Monochrome
This isn’t the first Belisar Chronograph Speedster from Union Glashütte, as models like the Limited Edition Electric Blue and Limited Edition Yellow were inspired by vintage German sports cars and rallies as well. The latest model by Union Glashütte features an asphalt grey dial with a red stripe, mimicking the colours of a specific Porsche […]
Fratello
Another Friday, another list! This week, we take another step into Rolex Wonderland. With all the price decreases on the secondhand market, some of the Rolex models you have had your eye on might have become more within reach. This week, we look at some reasonably affordable Rolex models. They could be the start of […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Reasonably Affordable Rolex Watches to read the full article.
Fratello
Back in April 2024, I had a chance to check out the olive-green version of the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton. While that earlier release walked a fine line between a saturated green and warm gray, today’s new watch takes a stealthier black approach. But don’t let that fool you because the rose gold […] Visit Hands-On With The New Black Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Having reintroduced its reversible chronograph in steel or gold last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) now does one better with the Reverso Tribute Chronograph in pink gold – with the case, dial, and movement bridges in pink gold. Featuring the double-sided display of the iconic design, the new chronograph has a solid gold dial laser-engraved with fine horizontal lines, while the open-worked dial on the reverse reveals the pink gold bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève. Initial thoughts The original Reverso Chronograph was launched in 1995, equipped with one of the first manually-wound integrated chronograph movements developed post-Quartz Crisis (I can only think of the Piguet cal. 1180 that was earlier), making it notable piece of horological history. The 1995 original was a limited edition of 500, so the revival of the movement last year, while not imaginative, was a good thing. The new Reverso Tribute Chronograph is a distinct variation of last’s year model that is no doubt superior thanks to its all-old execution, in contrast to regular-production version that features a movement with conventional rhodium-plated brass bridges. The use of a gold movement also brings to mind Reverso models of the 1990s and 2000s that employed similarly precious movements. Everything about the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph is appealing, except the price of US$66,000. It’s almost twice as expensive as the standard model in pink gold, which is difficult to justify even considering th...
Monochrome
The Polerouter is, without a doubt, one of the most emblematic watches ever created by Universal Genève. Not only was it designed by young Gérald Genta, but it was powered by an important micro-rotor movement and was a purpose-built watch created by request of SAS, asking Universal Genève to create a watch that could support […]
Monochrome
Brellum was founded in 2016 by Sébastien Muller, a fourth-generation watchmaker who set up shop in Porrentruy, Switzerland. With a limited production of around 299 watches a year and an emphasis on chronometer-certified movements, Brellum’s policy of direct sales to avoid middlemen allows the brand to keep its prices in check. One of this independent […]
SJX Watches
With the Geneva sales over, the auction season now moves to Hong Kong, where Phillips is staging a pair of sales: Toki, a theme sale dedicated to watches related to Japan, and the traditional The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX. Taking place over three days from November 22-24, the sales total 346 lots, including a notable line-up of metiers d’art timepieces decorated with artisanal techniques. They range from an enamelled Bulgari Serpenti to a Vacheron Constantin Les Masques quartet. We round up metiers d’art highlights from the two sales. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI Lot 65 – Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Kimono” Ref. 5077P-097 Patek Philippe’s annual Rare Handcrafts offerings are often centred on several themes, and in 2013, resulting in several models with Japanese motifs, including this Calatrava ref. 5077P with a cloisonné enamel dial. The technique of enamelling is well known: a mixture of silica sand, metal oxides for colour, and oil is painted on a surface before being baked in an oven at temperatures exceeding 800°C. to melt the paste to form enamel. Cloisonné adds an additional layer of complexity by employing gold wires to form the motif, with the enamel painted into the cells form by the wires. Here the wires form a cherry blossom motif typical of traditional kimono fabric. According to Phillips, only four examples were produced with this dial, with the present watch being the first to emerge at auction. This wat...
Worn & Wound
As we’ve seen time and time again in the watch industry, collaborations often open the door to new opportunities, whether it’s an entirely new product, or a limited offering based on an existing product, and this mentality is just as prevalent in the EDC world. In order to bring their first pack to market, Field Notes partnered with “Got Bag” to produce the Pitch Black Rolltop backpack. Got Bag is a softgoods manufacturer whose mission is to clean plastics from the ocean, and repurpose PETG into usable fabric. They currently offer a full gamut of travel items, from backpacks, slings, and smaller travel pouches. This new pack, or rather new colorway is built upon Got Bag’s ROLLTOP EASY pack, which features water resistant fabric, a laptop sleeve capable of holding a 16” laptop, and even a hidden pocket on the back panel (the panel that rests against your back when wearing the bag). While the feature set of this version is mostly the same as the standard model, its appearance is what sets it apart. Drawing inspiration from Field Notes’ iconic “Pitch Black” notebooks, the main exterior fabric is all black, aside from a silvery Field Notes and Got Bag logo. Rather than lining the inside of the pack with a “Kraft brown” fabric, Got Back used a brown webbing for the roll top cinch strap, and the rear accessory pocket zipper pull. Designed to be lightweight, this pack comes in at 1.5 pounds when empty, and can expand from its base 20L capacity to 31L for tho...
Fratello
Having past ambassadors who became icons in their fields of activity is priceless. Some of these connections are real, and some are more of a wish. It’s important to navigate through tons of lies and fairytales made up to boost the value of vintage watches and just stick to the facts. Jim Clark or Stirling […] Visit #TBT Racing Legends Jim Clark And Stirling Moss Wearing Enicar Watches to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
The best bit of trivia I’ve heard about the Ball Watch Company, founded by its eponym, Webster Clay “Webb” Ball in 1891 — and one I have admittedly kept alive in conversations over the years — is that the expression “on the ball” actually has its origins in the world-renowned accuracy of the railroad watches the company produced in the early 20th Century. The legend, likely apocryphal, has it that “on the ball,” which today denotes a general sense of efficiency and promptness, once referred to a train being dependably on time thanks to the conductor’s use of one of Webb Ball’s meticulously adjusted pocket chronometers. Whether or not any of this is true, what cannot be disputed is Ball Watch’s impressive track record in making tool watches — initially for keeping the railways that knitted together the modern, interconnected United States running smoothly, and eventually pieces engineered specially for divers, pilots, firefighters, and even storm chasers. Ball’s latest release is the Roadmaster M Model A, a timepiece that ushers a mechanical alarm function (that’s the “A”) into the lineup for the first time. As a diehard fan of the somewhat niche complication (I sing its praises and explore its storied history here), I was excited when the Ball Watch team sent me the heads-up on the model several months ahead of its debut and even more eager to get my hands on it for a review. As with most Ball watches, the case of the Roadmaster M Mode...
Deployant
Alain Silberstein has done it again! This time, the quirky designer teamed up with the French based YEMA to launch a 500 pieces limited edition watch.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet (AP) debuts an entirely new look for its thinnest-ever perpetual with the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Greater China. Crafted entirely in yellow gold in a first for the model, the limited edition even sports a gilded dial with matching yellow gold moon disc. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak is inarguably the face of AP. And amongst Royal Oak models, the ultra-thin perpetual calendar stands out for its technical sophistication. Derived from the Royal Oak RD#2 concept watch, the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin has a cleverly engineered movement that spreads out the calendar mechanism to minimise its height. That results in a slim case that enhances the proportions of the Royal Oak design. The signature starry moon phase features yellow gold-toned moons The Greater China edition is a major departure from the grey and blue tones of the prior two versions. It’s loud and definitely not for everyone, but it does look good. At the same time, it also references vintage Royal Oak perpetual calendar models that featured similar all-gold livery. Though the price is only on request, the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin mode in general is pricey, arguably more expensive than it should be in fact, but it looks and feels great on the wrist. Yellow moons Crafted from 18k yellow gold, the ultra-thin yellow gold case is 41 mm in diameter and 6.2 mm in thickness. Water resistant to only 20 m due to its thinness, the case is finished in traditional Royal Oak style, wit...
Monochrome
Few watch designs offer the freedom to create a series of nearly identical-looking pieces that remain universally appealing, regardless of case size or dial colour. Nomos timepieces, defined by a beautiful simplicity rooted in Bauhaus principles, showcase this versatility nicely… Take for instance the Club Sport series. The sporty line was first introduced in a […]
Time+Tide
Czapek makes its classical chronograph more sporty with a new dial texture and a tachymeter scale.The post The Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads refreshes Czapek’s classically modern high-beat chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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