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Results for WOSTEP (Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program)

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John-Mikaël Flaux Debuts Rearing Horse Automaton Clock SJX Watches
Jun 23, 2021

John-Mikaël Flaux Debuts Rearing Horse Automaton Clock

A clock and automaton maker whose timekeepers have taken the form of a running leopard and race car, John-Mikaël Flaux has just unveiled his most complex creation to date. Hand made from brass and steel, Le Cabré is a mechanical sculpture of a rearing Arabian horse with a key-wound clock in its base that doubles as a “mysterious trigger” for the automaton. Initial thoughts Le Cabré is very much mechanical objet d’art – handmade and hand finished, while being complex and extravagant. Automaton-clocks like this have long been part of independent watchmaking, but are typically little appreciated, largely due to their cost (and the necessity of having an office or house grand enough to install one of them). But the craft that goes into creating one is easily understood. Le Cabré is made up of 450 parts, three-quarters hand made by the clockmaker himself, a process that requires 1,500 hours of work according to Mr Flaux. Priced at a little over US$160,000, Le Cabré is substantially more expensive than Mr Flaux’s prior creations, but it is also substantially more complex. At the same time, considerably more lavish automaton clocks that are made of precious metal and decked out in precious stones traditionally have price tags in the millions, making this relatively affordable. Equine ballet Standing 24 cm, or a bit under 10″, Le Cabré is made up of a horse automaton protected by a glass case, sitting on a wood base. It was conceived by Mr Flaux in collaboration...

Tudor Unveils the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze SJX Watches
Tudor Unveils Jun 23, 2021

Tudor Unveils the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze

Tudor debuted a teaser about its upcoming launch last week – showing the forging of a case component –  and now it has taken the covers off its very first boutique-only model, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze. The new boutique edition combines the compact size of the Fifty-Eight with the alloy found on its prior bronze dive watches. The new model sports a bronze “rivet” bracelet, which is a first for Tudor. And unlike earlier Black Bay Fifty-Eight models, the new version sports an all-new, micro-extension clasp known as T-Fit that brings the wearability of the Fifty–Eight to another level. The new Fifty-Eight is delivered on a bronze bracelet along with an additional fabric strap Initial thoughts Despite boasting several “firsts” for Tudor  – as well as being a good-looking watch – the Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze sticks to a familiar formula. It has a brown bezel and dial found on the first-generation Black Bay Bronze, as well as Arabic numerals at the quarters that are a hallmark of the Tudor’s bronze watches. But the minor change in case size is significant, a result of the gulf in perception between the 39 mm and 41 mm Black Bay cases. The two millimetres that separate the two sizes are markedly obvious in the metal. The compact format of the new Black Bay in bronze means it’ll wear better, much like the standard Fifty-Eight. And it’ll also have a more retro feel since its case size is close to that of vintage dive watches, which will complem...

Rolex Debuts Documentary on Marine Conservationists SJX Watches
Rolex Debuts Documentary Jun 22, 2021

Rolex Debuts Documentary on Marine Conservationists

A devoted supporter of environmental causes, Rolex has evolved from evolved from backing explorers who ventured into the unknown to bankrolling their modern-day equivalents who seek to save the planet from climate change. Now Rolex is bringing its conservation efforts to light on an easily accessible channel. On World Oceans Day that took place earlier this month, Heroes of the Ocean made its premiere on YouTube and rolex.org (or you can watch it further down). The documentary part of Perpetual Planet, the wide-ranging initiative established by Rolex in 2019 to back a variety of conservationists. Presented by noted oceanographer Dr Sylvia Earle – an octogenarian who’s been a Rolex Testimonee for over four decades – the hour-long documentary explains mankind’s impact on the oceans, and eight individuals working to combat that. With magnificent videography and stirring music, the film uncovers the work of the marine scientists and activists. From planting corals to empowering the next generation of conservationists, each of the scientists and activists featured in the film is on a mission to improve the health of the oceans. Dr Sylvia Earle founded Mission Blue, an organisation set up marine protected areas around the world Persuasive storytelling I watched the movie and enjoyed it – and you will too – as the production quality is impressive and its content inspirational. It captures the grandeur and beauty of marine life, enough to inspire the casual reader t...

VIDEO: The Fratello x Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date oozes with decadent panache Time+Tide
Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Jun 22, 2021

VIDEO: The Fratello x Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date oozes with decadent panache

The recent Fratello x Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date is a perfect example of how a limited-edition collaboration can achieve something timeless, classic, and ultimately lust-worthy. In a watch such as this, it’s hard to pick out just one thing which makes it special, however, the oxblood dial is as sumptuous as they come. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Fratello x Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date oozes with decadent panache appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Radio host throws birthday gift watch into the ocean because it wasn’t expensive enough Time+Tide
Jun 21, 2021

Radio host throws birthday gift watch into the ocean because it wasn’t expensive enough

Radio shock jock Kyle Sandilands has built a wildly successful career out of being brash and obnoxious. Last week the king of Sydney’s FM airwaves celebrated his 50th birthday in true Kyle style. To mark the big five-oh, the former presenter of Big Brother and Australian Idol rented a modest “super-yacht” to tour the waters … ContinuedThe post Radio host throws birthday gift watch into the ocean because it wasn’t expensive enough appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Robert Downey Jr.’s Very Own Urwerk UR-105 SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-105 Best known Jun 21, 2021

Auction Watch: Robert Downey Jr.’s Very Own Urwerk UR-105

Best known for playing Iron Man, Robert Downey Jr. has a penchant for Urwerk’s avant-garde timepieces. In fact, the actor has sported several Urwerk watches in recent years, including an UR-110 RG in Spider-Man Homecoming and an UR-105 CT in Avengers: Endgame. The watches worn by Mr Downey were subsequently sold to benefit charity, raising over US$700,000. Now the watch worn by Mr Downey during the production of Avengers: Endgame, the UR-105 TA “Raging Gold” RDJ, will go under the hammer, with proceeds once again going to charity. Robert Downey Jr. with Yacine Sar, Urwerk’s longtime head of marketing and communications Urwerk doesn’t pay for product placements, and the “RDJ” watches came about from a request by Mr Downey himself. Believing the watches were a perfect fit for Tony Stark, Mr Downey asked for a UR-110 in rose gold during the filming of Spiderman: Homecoming, which turned out to be the first of several. The UR-105 CT worn by Mr Downey playing Tony Stark in Avengers: Endgame And the UR-111C worn during the premiere of Avengers: Endgame, shown here on the owner’s wrist Like the UR-110 RG that started the relationship, the final “RDJ” Urwerk is once again a combination of rose gold and black-coated titanium. A limited edition of 22 pieces launched in 2016, the UR-105 TA “Raging Gold” tells the time with the brand’s trademark wandering hours display, comprising four hour discs on a carousel along with a minute scale on the lower edge o...

Cheap Bastard: The Swatch Bioceramic C-White is an oversized bargain that’s eco-friendly, too Time+Tide
Swatch Jun 21, 2021

Cheap Bastard: The Swatch Bioceramic C-White is an oversized bargain that’s eco-friendly, too

If you’ve already turned your horological nose up at the S word in the headline above, please remind yourself of the title of this column. T&T; teems with timepieces that will set back four, five and even six figures – if that’s you, congrats on the start-up/inheritance/proceeds of crime. If, however, you feel like adding … ContinuedThe post Cheap Bastard: The Swatch Bioceramic C-White is an oversized bargain that’s eco-friendly, too appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why I Bought It: Vacheron & Constantin Reference 4560 Triple Calendar - Reprise Quill & Pad
Vacheron Constantin Jun 20, 2021

Why I Bought It: Vacheron & Constantin Reference 4560 Triple Calendar - Reprise

Oh, those Geneva auctions! While GaryG's intention is usually to browse the rare pieces on offer, gain an education from his auction-house friends and escape unscathed, it seems that more often than not there is a piece that puts him into bidding mode. And sometimes that piece is entirely unanticipated as was the case of the Vacheron & Constantin Reference 4560 triple calendar that he stumbled across at a Sotheby’s preview. Here is why he bought it.

#Kixntix: Hit the trails with the new Breitling Endurance Pro Ironman Time+Tide
Breitling Endurance Pro Ironman I Jun 19, 2021

#Kixntix: Hit the trails with the new Breitling Endurance Pro Ironman

I consider myself quite fit for my age with weekly gym and road bike sessions (well, when it’s sunny..), but feel fairly inadequate compared to our intrepid European Editor Mike Christensen. He’s one of those all-in impossibly fit dads, posting morning river swims of 20 miles and other feats of manhood I couldn’t possibly live … ContinuedThe post #Kixntix: Hit the trails with the new Breitling Endurance Pro Ironman appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye: When Less Is More Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Jun 19, 2021

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye: When Less Is More

Cracking the seal on the box of the H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Tiger’s Eye revealed a deep and constantly shifting play of light as the stone dial caught the afternoon light coming in through the window. Over the days that GaryG had the watch for shooting, it became his quest to capture the variety of moods conjured up by this dial. And we think he has done just that.

Review: new Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 Copper Deployant
Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 Jun 19, 2021

Review: new Breitling Premier B25 Datora 42 Copper

The Breitling Premier Datora is Breitling's take on a calendar chronograph with moon-phase. Featuring rectangular chronograph pushers and Arabic numerals, the heritage-revived Premier Datora displays a variety of details such as grooves on the case-sides, open sapphire casebacks and syringe hands. The Datora comes in stainless steel with a copper dial or in 18k red gold with a silver dial. “Datora” was a term used by Breitling in the 1940s and refers to a complete calendar chronograph displaying day, date, month and moonphase.

Dimepiece on Cartier Cookies, Lily Allen & the most subtle watch flex ever Time+Tide
Cartier Cookies Lily Allen & Jun 19, 2021

Dimepiece on Cartier Cookies, Lily Allen & the most subtle watch flex ever

Editor’s note: This week the Wall St Journal ran a story on The 8 Women Changing the Watch World. Not surprisingly, making their hit-list was Brynn Wallner, the mastermind behind the wonderful Dimepiece, an Instagram account and website that explores the world of women and watches in a way that’s fresh, irreverent and a whole … ContinuedThe post Dimepiece on Cartier Cookies, Lily Allen & the most subtle watch flex ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Franck Muller Introduces the Skafander Tonneau Diver’s Watch SJX Watches
Richard Mille models But it was Jun 18, 2021

Franck Muller Introduces the Skafander Tonneau Diver’s Watch

Introduced in 2018 but put on hold until recently, the Skafander adapts Franck Muller’s trademark tonneau watch case for a dive watch. Getting its name from “scaphander”, an archaic term for a diving suit, the Skafander has been facelifted just as it reaches stores in both stainless steel or titanium. Initial thoughts Brash and bold watch, the Skafander is much typical of Franck Muller’s current style. At first glance, the design might seem derivative, bringing to mind the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang, and of course various Richard Mille models. But it was Franck Muller that made the tonneau case a thing in contemporary watchmaking with the Cintree Curvex – Cartier, on the other hand, invented the shape in 1906 – so the brand has every right to the shape. In fact, the Cintree Curvex was one of the “it” watches of the 1990s, so successful it arguably inspired all tonneau watches in 21st century watchmaking. Complicated and mechanical in style, the Skafander has a partially open-worked dial, which doesn’t help legibility, but it’s very much the style for modern sport watches. The Skafander manages to set itself apart amongst watches in this genre, by way of its case shape and inner rotating bezel. And priced at about US$15,000 (or 23,800 Singapore dollars), it’s relatively pricey, but on par with comparable dive watches from Hublot. The Skafander in brushed titanium Tonneau case, round bezel The Skafander’s key feature results from matching a rotatin...

Time Trial: Oris Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” Collection Revolution
Oris Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” Jun 18, 2021

Time Trial: Oris Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy” Collection

There’s a fresh breeze blowing through the world of watch design and floating on that breeze like a clump of gossamer goodness is Oris’ latest confection: the Divers Sixty-Five “Cotton Candy”. The case is the familiar and popular Divers Sixty-Five bronze, clocking in at a versatile 38mm across, domed sapphire crystal, rated to 100 metres and with a stainless steel caseback concealing the automatic calibre Oris 733 inside. The dial comes in three super sweet flavours, complemented by the use of bronze for the case and bracelet. What remains to be seen is how bronze - famous for how it tends to patina - will interplay with the dial. Will a hint of verdigris make the dials seem that much more delicious? Only time will tell.

Extra time: Which Euro 2020 manager has the best watch? Time+Tide
Jun 18, 2021

Extra time: Which Euro 2020 manager has the best watch?

International football is beset with stubborn clichés about the playing styles of different nations. We think of France’s “Gallic flair”, the “Teutonic efficiency” of Germany, Holland’s “total football” and England’s reliable ineptitude when the stakes get high. These stereotypes persist even while their actual veracity may be outdated. But what about the style choices of … ContinuedThe post Extra time: Which Euro 2020 manager has the best watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 26239 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 26239 Jun 17, 2021

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 26239

Two years after the base-model Royal Oak got was revamped with a latest-generation, in-house movement, Audemars Piguet has quietly updated its chronograph counterpart. Though it might seem barely changed at a glance, the Royal Oak Chronograph ref. 26239 is very much a different watch, and one that’s tangibly improved. Launched earlier this year, the new Royal Oak Chronograph retains the recognisable style of its predecessor and is seemingly alike, save for a crucial detail. The chronograph registers have been lightly revised, giving away its most important upgrade – the cal. 4401 inside that’s the first in-house calibre found in the Royal Oak Chronograph. The new movement made possible a redesigned dial that is subtly different, but substantially better. Studying the dial layout of a chronograph is an exercise in details, but it reveals how proportions are crucial to beauty. There aren’t many chronographs on the market today with perfect proportions, simply because most movements in use today were designed years ago for smaller cases and dials. The dial on the new Royal Oak Chronograph, however, stands out as an excellent example that is almost perfect. Initial thoughts With half a dozen new calibres having made their debut with the Code 11.59 in 2019, from time-only to tourbillon, Audemars Piguet has a stable of latest-generation movements that are being progressively installed in the Royal Oak. Two years ago, the three-hand ref. 15500 was the first Royal Oak t...

EDITOR’S PICK: The ultimate dad-watch is the Full Metal G-Shock GMW-B5000V Time+Tide
Jun 17, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: The ultimate dad-watch is the Full Metal G-Shock GMW-B5000V

Editor’s note: Having kids make you think about watches differently. Not so much in the manner of potential heirloom appraisal. More that durability and scratch-resistance quickly become more urgent priorities when you’re trying to avoid copping one in the knackers from an excitable three-year who’s whirling a toy lightsaber with deadly intent. Luckily, Andrew has … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: The ultimate dad-watch is the Full Metal G-Shock GMW-B5000V appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 16, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374G

Patek Philippe keeps up the pace with the fourth instalment of new releases for the year, which were just announced at its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition in Geneva. While most of the watches at the exhibition are one-offs bestowed with colourful, artisanal decoration, the line up includes an ensemble of repeating watches, led by the flamboyant Sky Moon Tourbillon in pink gold and brown. Simpler, at least relatively speaking, is the Minute Repeater Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5374G that packs a pair of high-end complications fronted by a blue, grand feu enamel dial. Initial thoughts Today’s launches stand in stark contrast to the brand’s hottest watches of the moment – the sports watches that are arguably its most recognisable products now – that were its opening act for the year. Patek Philippe launched a slew of exquisite, highly decorated timepieces today, affirming its twin strengths – haute horlogerie and metiers d’art. The generous array of Rare Handcrafts, along with the fact that several are chiming watches, is a reminder that Patek Philippe is more than a faddish, integrated-bracelet sports watch. That said, the ref. 5374 is not entirely new (neither is the flagship Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002R). In fact, the only truly new reference amongst the Rare Handcrafts complications is the Ladies Minute Repeater ref. 7040/250G. The ref. 5374 was first introduced in 2016 with a platinum case and black enamel dial – a formal, classical package. Now it ge...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ladies’ Minute Repeater Ref. 7040/250G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 16, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ladies’ Minute Repeater Ref. 7040/250G

While the Sky Moon Tourbillon introduced at the same time is bold and over the top, the Rare Handcrafts Ladies’ Minute Repeater ref. 7040/250G is graceful and delicately detailed. Now the only minute repeater for ladies in the catalogue, the ref. 7040/250G features a dial with spiral guilloche covered in translucent enamel, match with unusual, spear-shaped hands and markers. Initial thoughts The ref. 7040/250G is surprisingly reminiscent of Patek Philippe’s men’s watch of the 1990s with its “officer’s” case. In fact, that case is quite close to that of the ref. 5029, the limited-edition minute repeater made in 1997 to commemorate the opening of its factory in Plans-les-Ouates. That resemblance is a good thing, because the ref. 5029 was an elegant, classical watch. The new repeater shares similar lines, but has been tastefully dressed up as a ladies watch with a diamond bezel and guilloche dial. The dial is a first for Patek Philippe, and certainly good looking. There’s a hint of Laurent Ferrier design in the dial, but again, the resemblance isn’t a bad thing. All in all, the ref. 7040/250G is an all-rounder – a pretty watch with a finely detailed dial and a complex movement. Svelte dimensions Slightly larger than the preceding minute repeater for ladies (the ref. 7000 that was 33.7 mm), the ref. 7040/250G has a case of 18k white gold that measures just 36 mm by 10.14 mm high – more or less the dimensions the men’s minute repeater of the 1990s. The rou...

Patek Philippe Introduces the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Jun 16, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R

At the opening of its annual Rare Handcrafts Exhibition in Geneva, Patek Philippe took the covers off a suite of watches and clocks decorated with artisanal techniques, including a new version of its ultra-fancy grand complication, the Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 6002R. First offered in blue enamel, and then black, the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002 was the most complicated wristwatch in Patek Philippe’s catalogue, until the Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300 and Grand Sonnerie ref. 6301. But the Sky Moon Tourbillon remains the most ornately decorated amongst its peers, with every surface of the case – and even the hands – engraved with arabesques and the dial in cloisonné enamel. Initial thoughts Enormous at 44 mm wide and over 17 mm high, the Sky Moon Tourbillon is an expensive, complex wristwatch that looks, well, expensive and complex. It’s often a statement piece for the segment of clients who find a Richard Mille affordable but unrefined, the new rose-gold variant makes sense. The metal is the most popular for high-end watches, globally but especially in Asia. It is warmer and richer, making the watch seem even more luxe – a useful characteristic in watch like this. The rationale for the Sky Moon Tourbillon in rose gold is clear. As a watch, I am certain it will be impressive, probably even more impressive than the earlier versions of the watch due to its brighter colours. It’s too baroque – and of course unaffordable – for most, but the target demographic w...

De Bethune Introduces the DB25GMT Starry Varius SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces Jun 15, 2021

De Bethune Introduces the DB25GMT Starry Varius

While the pandemic is not entirely in the rearview mirror yet, international travel is recovering slowly but surely, so De Bethune’s latest arrives at an opportune time. The DB25GMT Starry Varius is a gently updated version of its dual time zone wristwatch – smaller, thinner, and lighter than the original, while also sporting the brand’s trademark “Starry Night” dial. More classical than the brand’s best-known models like the DB28 or DW5, the DB25GMT nonetheless incorporates details that are quintessentially De Bethune in addition to the celestial motif dial, helping it stand out amongst dual-time watches. Initial thoughts If money was no object, the first watch I would buy is my “grail”, the De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Tourbillon. It has an ethereal quality and technical innovations that capture both the mind and heart. Unsurprisingly, I love the DB25GMT Starry Varius, which has a similar style but is more practical. The star-studded dial is a modest upgrade, but one that significantly improves the aesthetics of the brand’s original dual time-zone watch that was launched in 2016. Matching it with a travel-time complication makes sense as a historical reference, since explorers once depended on the stars for navigation – making the design feel like a match made in heaven (pun intended). The multiple-part dial gives the watch visual depth despite the clean layout, certainly making it one of the most captivating travel watches. But the new dual ...

Is the vintage Cartier boom here to stay? Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Jun 15, 2021

Is the vintage Cartier boom here to stay?

We’ve grown used to seeing jaw-dropping auction results for two brands: Rolex and Patek Philippe. But recently, the prices of one French-founded jewellery and watchmaking house have begun to climb. That’s right, Cartier is hot, with prices rising not only across the more common models, but also the top lots in auction catalogues. But what … ContinuedThe post Is the vintage Cartier boom here to stay? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm Time+Tide
Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Jun 15, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm

Divers are among the most popular watches on the market, if not the most popular, due to their highly robust builds and familiar aesthetic. As a result, the segment is highly competitive and brands now have to find fresh ways to draw interest to their references. Fully aware of this trend, Oris has really begun … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 41.5mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.