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Deployant
Panerai celebrates the reopening of the flagship boutique at ION Orchard mall in Singapore with a special edition Luminor GMT featuring customized details and available in 100 pieces starting from November. Press Release PAM01177 (Retail price: SGD13,850) LIMITED EDITION OF 100 PIECES Panerai Luminor GMT Ion Special Edition The Panerai flagship boutique located withinRead More
SJX Watches
With its auctions earlier in the year having been delayed due to the pandemic – and supplemented by weekly online sales – Sotheby’s has resumed its traditional schedule and the fall auction season in Hong Kong is now in full swing. Preceded by sales of wine, art, and jewellery, Important Watches takes place in Hong Kong in two days – at 4:00 pm on October 9. Made up of just over 180 lots, the catalogue encompasses independent watchmakers like Philippe Dufour – there are two Dufour Simplicities in the sale – who are notable and known, and also some who are less prominent today, like Antoine Preziuso and Svend Andersen. And the sale naturally the usual suspects, with the headline watch being a possibly-unique Rolex Daytona “Zenith” with a lapis lazuli dial, and perhaps the most intriguing being a quartz Rolex Beta 21 in white gold that might be one of a kind. Here’s a look at a couple of interesting lots, and the complete catalogue is available here. The lapis Daytona The white gold Rolex Beta-21 Lot 2062 – Andersen Geneve Secular Perpetual Calendar Known for his inventive complications and unique bespoke watches, Svend Andersen was a pioneer in independent watchmaking. He established his own brand in 1979 and cofounded the AHCI in 1986. Four decades on, he continues to produce watches using artisanal and traditional methods. A good example of his mechanical creativity is the secular perpetual calendar that made its debut in 1996 – the first of its...
SJX Watches
Conceived as an affordable entry into the world of the integrated-bracelet, luxury-sports watches, the BR 05 was first launched in steel, priced at a little under US$5,000. Now the brand has just taken the covers off the decidedly more lavish BR 05 Blue Gold, which is rendered in the trendy colour combination of a metallic blue dial with a rose gold case, and even a matching gold bracelet. Initial thoughts When it made its debut last year, I found the BR 05 to be as good looking as it was controversial. At a glance the design is redolent of the usual suspects in the luxury-sports watch genre. However, there’s originality to the design that is less noticeable, such as the bezel derived from the quintessential Bell & Ross (B&R;) wristwatch, the square BR 01. And the case finishing on the steel BR 05 is well done; not overly complicated yet managing to have well defined edges. All of those qualities carry over to the rose-gold variant, which coupled with the blue, sunburst-brushed dial, results in a compelling watch. But the price is far from compelling. At US$32,500 on a bracelet (and US$11,000 less on a rubber strap), the BR 05 in gold is expensive, especially since the competition is very, very strong. It is cheaper than the Royal Oak or Overseas in solid gold, but the difference doesn’t seem like that much of a stretch at this level. The Overseas in gold, for instance, costs a little over US$46,000. A good look While the value proposition in terms of the movement an...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: As we discussed here and in Part 1 of this article, watch lug to lug is an oft misunderstood element in finding the perfect fitting watch to your wrist. Here’s why. Ressence Type 1 Slim (42mm x 46mm) While some Ressence Type references push upwards of 52mm lug to lug, if you are … ContinuedThe post Big watches for small wrists – 10 watches that wear smaller than their case diameters Part 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Relatively simple men's watches are perhaps the most popular watches by sales, and the nominated watches in the 2020 GPHG highlight that this is a vintage year for the genre. So it's not surprising that our panelists are split three ways in their predictions for the winner. Find out what we think about all of the contenders and how ruthless we were in comparing them here.
Hodinkee
A green dial and bezel for a tough diver's chrono.
Time+Tide
Ceramic is a notoriously tricky material to work with in watchmaking, with only a handful of brands able to produce the material at scale. One of the few brands that can claim to have mastered it is Rado, who are well known for their brightly coloured and scratch-resistant timepieces. While Rado use the material throughout … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Thinking outside the box with the Rado True Square collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet has been progressively unveiling increasingly compelling versions of the Code 11.59, starting the year with the smoked-dial models and then following with the tourbillon-chronograph. And now it’s revealed what is no doubt the flagship of the line, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Carillon Supersonnerie. Originally slated to have been launched earlier in the year alongside the official opening of the Audemars Piguet Museum but delayed by the pandemic, the Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie is powered by a movement enhanced with the brand’s Supersonnerie that results in one of the loudest chiming watches on the market. The pusher at 11 o’clock activates the minute repeater, while the crown at two o’clock sets the strike mode – silent, grande or petite sonnerie Beyond its technical innovation, the new Grande Sonnerie is bestowed with a dial made by Anita Porchet. It’s a limited edition of five watches, with three unique paillonné dials already having been made, while the remaining two dials can be customised by the buyer. Initial thoughts The new Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie is a well-designed watch that is surprisingly simple in style. Like the recent Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon, the grande sonnerie is strikingly modern, but the paillonné technique used to create the dial is eminently artisanal and classical. The gold paillons are arranged at random, giving the enamel dial a beautiful, almost organic appearance. Mec...
SJX Watches
Having pivoted to take a more interesting direction – exemplified by its recent collaboration with watch designer Alain Silberstein – Louis Erard is now working on facelifting its more classical watches to give them a more contemporary appearance. The result is the Excellence Triptych, a trio of watches that are simple yet smartly detailed. Made up of a time-only, regulator, and mono-pusher chronograph, the line up is named after a three-panelled painting, perhaps reflecting the artistic interests of Manuel Emch, the former chief executive of Jaquet Droz who is now a consultant to Louis Erard and responsible for the brand’s renewal. The Excellence Triptych (from left): Petite Second, Régulateur, Chronographe Monopoussoir Initial thoughts The Triptych is fundamentally appealing because of its reasonable and affordable pricing, starting from about US$1,600 for the time-only and rising to a still-modest US$3,800 for the mono-pusher chronograph. The intrinsic value is especially strong for the regulator, as the complication is rarely seen in this price segment (though Louis Erard has made it something of a speciality). The Régulateur And the facelift is subtle but significantly, boosting their visual appeal over the earlier generation of watches. Amongst the more obvious tweaks was replacing the Roman numerals with applied Arabics and batons, while also sharpening the lance-shaped hands, giving the watch a more modern look. While the dials are in a muted silver, ...
Quill & Pad
The GPHG foundation describes the Ladies Complication category for watches entered as “women’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity." And our panelists wonder: is a tourbillon enough to take home the prize?
Time+Tide
A round watch case like few others, sharp angles, quirky Japanese design and a Swiss movement? Surely that can grab your attention, even in these weeks of big stories from Switzerland. At a time when just as many gravitate towards the well known, we have the ones that turn towards another path, a path less … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Minase Divido appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
When it comes to dress watches, its design is somewhat always predictable: Simple, elegant, and unassuming. Due to the fact that there are only so few elements for the watch manufacturers to explore, most of the dress watches have more similarities than differences. Hence, there are quite a sizeable number of collectors that find dressRead More
Quill & Pad
The Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace features a pair of hearts that mesh with the point of one heart meeting the cleft of the other and moving at constantly differing speeds for an utterly enchanting effect. Joshua Munchow feels that it also offers a perfect horological metaphor for the complexities of love. What do you think?
Time+Tide
The SRPE39K is Seiko's new take on the “King Turtle”. With a blue degradè dial and stingray motif, this is one sharp-looking watch.The post INTRODUCING: These incredible photos of the Seiko SRPE39K Save The Ocean say it all appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
For watches released this year, blue has definitely been a trending dial colour. Tudor, Panerai, Montblanc, and more have all released blue watches this year – making it hard to stand out in its usage. H. Moser & Cie, however, is always up to the challenge and continually preserves its status as a pioneering haute … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Of mainsprings and Tri-synchro regulators.
Time+Tide
See how the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Steel fares next to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref.15202 and the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711.The post Does the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Steel truly belong with the big hitters? We put two Trinity Watches next to it to find out…. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
For 2020, the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One continues its evolution in red gold and black plasma ceramic
Deployant
Casio introduces an all-new model to its popular G-SHOCK Master of G collection of men’s tactical watches. Designed with aviation professionals in mind, the GRAVITYMASTER, GR-B200 boasts three colorways with a unique Carbon Core Guard construction, carbon-infused resin bezels and resin bands in black (GR-B200-1A), orange (GR-B200-1A9) or blue (GR-B200-1A2) to provide elevated strength and durability in lightweight cases.
Time+Tide
It might be a coincidence, or it might be provenance. But what was once a supplier of professional tool watches for the masses has slowly but surely become the undisputed king that wears the crown among luxury brands. Rolex dominates auction catalogues, while holding and appreciating in value for the lucky owners, and is only … ContinuedThe post Are there any bargains left in the current Rolex catalogue? We found four… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
For a kid growing up in rural Victoria, Australia, England always seemed closer than the 16,000 or so kilometres away that it was in actuality. We had to sing God Save The Queen once a week. There was a picture of the Queen in our classrooms, and my dad had a serious penchant for English … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: British invasion! Time+Tide, already overrun by Brits, opens UK office appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
October 1 marks the anniversary of the passing of the watch industry's greatest personalities. On this day in 2001, he passed away after a short illness, and the watchmaking world mourned the passing of a giant. Our Special Correspondent, Dr. Frank Muller remembers his mentor.
Time+Tide
Last year, a national get-together for watch lovers was launched by a well known Sydney-based collector, Paxton Wong. He called it ‘WatchFest’. And, despite every possible obstacle, the show will go on again in COVID-stricken 2020. Because, well, community. That’s what it’s all about, isn’t it? There’s no doubt that both the international and Australian … ContinuedThe post WatchFest Australia 2020 is going ahead against all odds, because community matters more than ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A limited edition created to mark the opening of the revamped Panerai boutique in Singapore – which is now almost a decade old, having opened in 2011 – the Luminor GMT ION Special Edition PAM01177 is a variation on the standard-production PAM01033. Featuring a 44 mm case, it’s accented in red, the key colour of the Singapore national flag, and bears the island nation’s emblem on the case back. Initial thoughts The highlight of the new Luminor GMT are aesthetic tweaks – although Panerai is doing a red crown for the first time here. It is not majorly different, but the design is on point for a sports watch, with the red elements easily blending in without disrupting the typical clean style of the Luminor. Despite the simplicity of the colour palette, it manages to stand apart from most current sports watches because it avoids being blue, the colour that’s all the rage now. And it is very much a contemporary Panerai in style, doing away with the heavily-traditional designs of the brand’s historically-inspired models. With the tweaks being modest, it is priced reasonably as such things go. This costs S$13,850, about 7%, or S$900, over the standard PAM01033. But it’s worth keeping in mind the P.9010 inside the ION edition is a noticeably simpler movement than the P.9011 found in the PAM01033, lacking the power reserve indicator on the back for instance. Overall, it is a good-looking sports watch, though the simpler movement is a bit of a downer. Singapore deta...
Time+Tide
Although it’s never really taken off as an uber-popular complication like a chronograph or moonphase, the alarm function of JLC’s Memovox watches has, since they were first unveiled in 1968, been exceedingly practical. But it’s a complication that’s usually been found in the watchmaker’s daintier, and perhaps less practical, dress watches. This has meant that … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox is an alarmingly different type of Polaris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Two new sporty additions to the Polaris family further hammer in the collection’s sporty and utilitarian aesthetics.
Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre is widely regarded as making some of the finest dress watches on the market. But for those not familiar with the Le Sentier firm’s full collection, JLC also makes a very good stainless steel sports watch – the Polaris. And now the legacy watchmaker has decided to up the ante with the Polaris, broadening … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date, is a bolder, more confident move for the Polaris appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Same owner, same place, but a new watch and jewelry show.
SJX Watches
Having just unveiled the new-and-improved Pasha de Cartier in April, the Parisian jeweller has just announced an unusually generous suite of complimentary services for the owners of any Pasha watch – “regardless of the model and year of purchase” – anywhere in the world. An example of a Pasha from 1985, which would also be eligible for this offer Conceived to be part of the promotional activities for the new line, this impressive initiative covers two key amenities: servicing and personalisation. Any Pasha wristwatch can be taken to a Cartier boutique for a diagnosis and complimentary servicing. After servicing, the watch will also benefit from the standard post-servicing guarantee. Engraved initials on the recently-launched Pasha de Cartier At the same time, a Pasha wristwatch can be personalised with an engraving of the owner’s initials, either on the case back or on the side of the case under the chain that links the crown cap to the case. Cartier has not revealed how long these services will remain complimentary, but presumably not forever, so it would be prudent to make use of the offer sooner rather than later. For more, visit Cartier.com.
Revolution
Tudor launches the Tudor Royal, a watch that’s deeply rooted in the Wilsdorf household and one which seems to be turning a lot of heads.
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