Hodinkee
Introducing: The Benrus Sky Chief Returns In Awesome Vintage Style
Vintage sizing, a slim profile, and all the good looks that made the vintage Sky Chief a vintage Hodinkee favorite, now back in action.
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Hodinkee
Vintage sizing, a slim profile, and all the good looks that made the vintage Sky Chief a vintage Hodinkee favorite, now back in action.
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaker Armin Strom has upgraded its flagship complication with a precious stone dial. The Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby is a five-piece limited edition with a dial cut from natural ruby. Initial thoughts Armin Strom is arguably the second-most prominent watchmaker (after F.P. Journe) to successfully bring “resonance” watches to market. We extensively covered the subject of coupled oscillator watches recently, which examines Armin Strom’s unique approach to achieving this mysterious effect. Within this narrow niche, Armin Strom’s Mirrored Force series is certainly the broadest collection of resonance watches on the market, with multiple movements and many variations exploiting the almost magic coupling between two sprung balances. This new limited edition employs the familiar in-house caliber ARF21, which connects the two hairspring by a long, swivelling blade spring - dubbed the Resonance Clutch Spring. While the movement is certainly well known, this particular iteration of the watch is quite surprising: a thin slice of natural ruby serves as the dial, with all the imperfections and liveliness of a natural mineral. Using a ruby dial is not only aesthetically appealing but poetic for a mechanical watch. The jewels serving as bearings inside every movement are synthetic rubies - a fancy sort of industrial mineral glass. The uneven bright pink and violet shades of the Mirrored Force Resonance Ruby’s dial assure us there is nothing artificial...
Worn & Wound
One of the more unexpected developments in the enthusiast watch space over the laste year or has been the emergence of the jump hour as a staple among design driven and creative microbrands and affordable independents. It seems like they are popping up just about everywhere at price points that encourage collectors to take a chance on a very niche complication. For those of us who have been around this stuff for a while, it’s genuinely been kind of surprising, as we can clearly remember a time when very few people gave these watches a second thought, and smaller brands were absolutely not interested in putting watches like these into the market. The jump hour is pretty far removed from the vintage inspired sports watches that have had a stranglehold on affordable watch enthusiasm in recent memory. But as the pendulum swings in another direction, the more brands are finding an opportunity to experiment with this very old fashioned complication. Christopher Ward is actually no stranger to jump hour watches, having released their first back in 2011. Their latest is still powered by the venerable JJ01 movement, a caliber that predicted much of the brand’s future success and interest in higher end watchmaking. The C1 Jump Hour Mk V in “Dusk” red is the brand’s latest, and limited edition variant of the Jump Hour Mk V that Griffin reviewed here. The broad strokes are of course the same: a 39mm steel case measuring 47.5mm from lug to lug and 14mm thick, with a multi...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Hands-on Vaer C4 Tactical Field Solar review. A 200m dive watch under $500 with strong lume, tool-watch design, and real-world wearability.
Fratello
Meet the Micromilspec Milgraph T5, a new addition to the lineup, featuring red details on its new silver-white or black dial and available on a titanium bracelet or a red, white, or black rubber strap. You might have to look twice to see what’s new about the T5. Did you spot it? Instead of orange […] Visit Attention! Introducing The Micromilspec Milgraph T5 - The Red Does It to read the full article.
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Fratello
Ressence is back with a limited-edition Type 9 in the brand’s Art Watch Series. Last year, Benoît Mintiens introduced a colorful pair of Type 8 models in collaboration with German painter and sculptor Daniel Engelberg. This time, the Belgian brand asked Japanese artist Terumasa Ikeda to decorate the Type 9’s dial. He’s famous for applying […] Visit Introducing: The Mesmerizing Black DLC Ressence Type 9 Ikeda to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Like its sister brand Daniel Roth, Gérald Genta recently unveiled a model that is entirely new, rather than one based on the brand’s historical designs. The Geneva time-only is a two-hand watch with a minimalist yet distinctive design that manages to capture the spirit of 1980s and 1990s Gérald Genta without being a remake. The cushion-shaped case was debuted last year with a six-figure minute repeater, but now the brand has now applied the design to something more affordable, relatively speaking. Inside is a Zenith Elite automatic that’s been dressed up surprisingly well, above and beyond the usual presentation of the calibre. Initial thoughts The revived Gerald Genta’s debut model, the Oursin, was a reissue of sorts. The Geneva, on the other hand, is a more original creation that’s no doubt inspired by the typical Genta aesthetic, but not a like-for-like remake. It’s a testament to the design that the Geneva could pass for a 1990s Gerald Genta watch even though it is not. The Geneva almost wears like a 1990s watch as well. It’s compact by today’s standards, though these proportions would have been extra-large 30 years ago. Its slimness and narrow lugs give this a formal feel, though the colours are more vivid than usual for a dress watch. The dial is definitely more 21st century than the case, especially with the grained finish, but the gradient colour is evocative of the 1970s and suits the style of the watch. I imagine a great many more colours can be s...
SJX Watches
The niche market for modern automatons just a little less tiny with Hugo Rittener’s Le Majordome, a mechanical butler that pop ups and greet the onlooker on demand. In the tradition of historical automatons, Le Majordome is entirely mechanical and driven by complex clockwork, and made entirely by hand. Initial thoughts Hugo Rittener is a young automaton maker from the Vaud region of Switzerland. Having cut his teeth working with François Junod, one of the most celebrated talents in the field, Mr Rittener has now gone into business for himself. Against this backdrop, Le Majordome (“the butler” in English) represents a foundational release. Compared to the timepieces we sometimes call mechanical art, this tabletop automaton serves no actual utility; there’s no time-telling and no complication other than the bronze figure itself. In terms of pure mechanical art, this is as artful as it gets. Having taken over 1,000 hours of work, from design to finishing, the (Le) Majordome is a mechanical animation of a bronze-sculpted and gold-plated butler figure, which raises his top hat towards those who actuate the mechanism. Mr Rittener poetically describes the Majordome as an automate d’accueil - meaning “welcoming automaton”. The mechanical butler does in fact greet its audience, so it could be used as an extravagant welcoming party trick. Hugo Rittener will make 10 pieces of the Majordome in total, over the course of some years. Given the highly artisanal process...
Breitling has made some big moves recently, first with the introduction of an exclusive new three-hand caliber, and secondly, by reinventing some of their best-loved legacy models. The new Caliber B31 made its debut in 2025, powering the 38mm Top Time B31. The 3-handed daily driver was a perfect platform to roll out th
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Explore which brand delivers better value, durability, design, and performance before you buy your next watch.
Video
Fratello
It’s Sunday, which means it’s time for another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, it’s an epic battle between two retro dive watches. Each is inspired by its respective brand’s 1960s classics. Jorg’s pick is the Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival, a modern version of the brand’s Deep Blue. Mike’s pick is the Aquastar Deepstar II, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Favre Leuba Deep Raider Revival Vs. Aquastar Deepstar II to read the full article.
Monochrome
If you’ve ever travelled to Shanghai or Thailand, you might be familiar with the ease of acquiring a convincing fake Rolex for pennies on the dollar. Asian counterfeiters (particularly in Guangdong Province, China) often have access to the original machines used for cases, bracelets, and so on (not for Rolex specifically), as some Swiss brands […]
Deployant
The latest millesime small seconds keeps the core architecture of the line intact while shifting the visual emphasis toward stronger contrast and more deliberate layering. The case, proportions, and RW4251 movement remain unchanged, which gives the new references a familiar baseline. The update comes through the Tuxedo‑inspired dial treatment and the way each colorway organizes light and dark zones.
Fratello
I first strapped the Panerai Luminor Base Logo PAM01086 to my wrist on a gray Sydney morning. Anchored to my wrist was one of the most storied dive-watch silhouettes in the world - simple, formidable, and, yes, iconic. Over the next two weeks, I wore it everywhere, from work and coffee runs to rainy city […] Visit The Panerai Luminor PAM01086 - Is The Brand’s Entry-Level Dive Watch Its Best? to read the full article.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A look at the Dryden Chrono Diver Gen 2, an under-$500 microbrand dive watch chronograph with refined 1970s styling and a new bracelet.
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Worn & Wound
I’m writing this just a few hours jetlagged from an IWC preview in Los Angeles, where I had the chance to see much of what the brand has in store for this year. Now while most of what I saw has to stay under embargo for now, one piece I can talk about is the new Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, and it’s one I feel most watch enthusiasts didn’t see coming. I should admit something up front: the Portugieser line has never been a true favorite of mine. I’ve always thought it was a little too dress-forward and formal. That’s not a criticism, just my own preference. I just typically gravitate toward pieces that feel sportier or more tool-like. Which is exactly why this release surprised me. This is the sportiest Portugieser we’ve seen yet, and it really shifts the tone of a collection that has previously leaned more elegant. The Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium (Ref. IW371631) keeps the familiar 41mm proportions of the modern Chronograph but the case, crown, and pushers are now crafted in Ceratanium, IWC’s proprietary titanium-based material. If you’re not familiar with Ceratanium, IWC developed this material over five years and it is a patented, matte-black material made by firing a special titanium alloy in a kiln, resulting in a scratch-resistant, non-coated surface. Ceratanium has historically felt most at home within IWC’s more tool-like utilitarian watches, particularly in the Pilot’s Watch line. We’re big fans of this material at Worn & W...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
See how the Hamilton Khaki Mechanical and Timex Solar Field Post perform beyond specs. Find out which delivers better comfort, reliability, design, and value.
Worn & Wound
Sinn is celebrating its 65th anniversary with a limited edition of one of its most peculiar watches. Not peculiar in terms of design, but because it feels like an outlier to the rest of their catalog, though in some respects, it’s also the most recognizable. The Sinn 903 is a pilot’s chronograph with an internal slide rule bezel that bears a striking resemblance to another famous watch, the Breitling Navitimer. But it’s important to note that it’s not a copy of a Navitimer. Rather, Sinn has owned the rights to this design since the late 1970s. A cult classic, it stands out aesthetically from Sinn’s other instrument watches, which tend to have a toolish, stripped-down look. By comparison, the 903 is more elaborate and, given its associations with the design, a more Swiss-luxury aesthetic. With that said, as Sinn is Sinn, they bring their engineering flair, while also keeping the price relatively approachable. This is true for the general 903 models, but even more so for the 65th anniversary model, the 903 Ti II Anniversary. Interestingly, you’ll see the number two in the name, because Sinn actually made a previous version of a 903 in titanium for its 35th anniversary. Why the 903 and why titanium? Well, we don’t know, but it’s certainly a welcome metal for this watch, and, as it’s been 30 years, a welcome return. Sinn uses grade five titanium for the case and the five-link bracelet, which has a bright, steel-like look that can be polished, while still bene...
Hodinkee
Just 8 pieces bring together Ressence's simplest design with Japanese artist Terumasa Ikeda's handcrafted raden and urushi.
Teddy Baldassarre
In 2017, IWC introduced a proprietary alloy called Ceratanium, or ceramized titanium, a hard, lightweight material that combined the best of ceramic and titanium. Oh, and it happened to look pretty cool as well. The material has been used sparingly in the intervening years, largely appearing across the brand’s sport-watch portfolio, from the Pilot to the Aquatimer collections. This week, Ceratanium is making its first appearance in the Portugieser collection with a new, limited-edition 41mm chronograph featuring a Ceratanium case affixed to a black rubber strap. In an effort to drive the point home, the rest of the watch is fully murdered out making the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium a decidedly sporty take on this otherwise dressier collection. [toc-section heading="What's New"] The new watch is the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, and it turns the classic chronograph layout on its head by rendering every detail in shades of black (insert Henry Ford quote here). The Portugieser is a historic watch with roots that date back to the late 1930s, and its modern aesthetic is largely referential to that history. That underlying design remains intact here, with a large, open dial hosting Arabic numerals at each hour, and a set of leaf hands tracking the time against them. The two subdials are arranged vertically, retaining a symmetric layout that recalls the original time-only references that had subsidiary seconds located at 6 o’clock. Using Ceratanium (which ha...
Video
It’s time for a full hands-on breakdown of Rolex at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026:
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The new affordable Timex Waterbury Heritage Chronograph gets a striking ice blue dial and classic motorsport styling.
Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet's Heritage and Museum Director shares how the brand organizes, enriches, and studies its archives and historical collections.
SJX Watches
One of the longest-lived models in the IWC catalogue, the Portugieser Chronograph is simple, distinctive, and handsomely proportioned. Now it’s undergone a surprising makeover to create the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium, which has just debuted publicly on Ed Sheeran’s wrist during the musician’s tour of Australia. Now in its second generation with an in-house movement, the Portugieser Chronograph has a clean aesthetic with vertically laid out registers and a large-but-thin case. Usually available only in gold or steel, the case is now Ceratanium, essentially titanium that’s been treated to form a hard ceramic layer on its surface. Ed Sheeran wearing a Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium during his concert at the Marvel Stadium on February 26 in Melbourne, Australia. Image – Mark Surridge Initial thoughts IWC doesn’t put out many interesting watches now (regrettably), but the Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium certainly stands out. Though it’s essentially a cosmetic variation of a familiar model, it is appealing. I’ve long been a fan of the Portugieser Chronograph; I like the proportions and design. The design is now over 30 years ago but still feels fresh. The Ceratanium version is odd yet likeable. The all-black livery feels like a mismatch with the classical style, but somehow it works and fits the minimalist look. Despite the appeal, the new Portugieser is expensive. It costs 50% more than the steel model, which feels like too much notwithstanding th...
Monochrome
Since its introduction in 1998, the classic IWC Portugieser Chronograph (ref. IW3914) has barely evolved visually. It has only undergone a technical upgrade in 2020, with the introduction of a new generation featuring a manufacture calibre inside (ref. IW3916). And that consistency in the design and overall sporty-chic, nautically-inspired spirit is what makes this watch […]
Hodinkee
A uniquely sporty and stealthy take on one of IWC's most recognizable designs.
Video
Watches & Wonders 2026 was an absolute movie. From running into Nico Leonard on Day 1 to spotting Patek Philippe's Thierry Stern at an underground club, this is the unfiltered, brutal truth about the biggest watch sho...
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