Time+Tide
The PRC 100 Solar brings photovoltaic technology to an analogue Tissot
Simple, solar Tissot.The post The PRC 100 Solar brings photovoltaic technology to an analogue Tissot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Simple, solar Tissot.The post The PRC 100 Solar brings photovoltaic technology to an analogue Tissot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
GS opens its second boutique in Australia in The Block Arcade on Melbourne's Collins Street, the main vein of Aussie watch culture.The post Grand Seiko opens a luxurious new Melbourne boutique, a statement of intent from the Japanese brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Hey, nobody’s perfect. From time to time, all of us make mistakes. Watch collecting is a wonderful hobby, but it’s also complicated and full of decision points, and that means that eventually, you’ll simply screw up. What makes a mistake a mistake, though, depends on your individual collecting goals, timing, and how much you actually bothered by the consequences of picking the wrong watch or just thinking about these things in a particular way. We asked our contributors to tell us about their biggest watch collecting mistakes, and their submissions include tales of specifics watches that immediately filled them with regret, as well as how changing views of the hobby itself led to understanding they were doing it wrong from the start. Don’t be shy, this is a safe space: let us know what your biggest watch collecting mistakes are in the comments below. Zach Kazan Mistakes? I’ve made a few. One of the most common maxims in our hobby is that you don’t really collect watches in the first few years you’re involved in all this, you’re just making mistakes and figuring out what you really like. When I look back at the early years of my watch enthusiasm, it looks nothing like where I’m at now. I never could have predicted how my interests would shift, and how my collecting priorities would change. I mean, there was a time in my collecting life when I thought it would be unthinkable to not have a Rolex in the watch box at all times. I was that guy! Really! Than...
Worn & Wound
On the evening of Thursday, February 27th, atop Freedom Tower at the World Trade Center in NYC-with a perfect view of Citizen’s US headquarters within the Empire State Building-Eric Horowitz, the brand’s Managing Director, announced the formation of a new division within Citizen. Dubbed Citizen Premier, this new endeavor represents what Citizen describes as “the pinnacle of watchmaking,” and highlights their ability to marry technological innovations with high-end Japanese craftsmanship in what will be a range of higher end, more refined products, all while maintaining the tried and true value-driven offerings we’ve come to appreciate more and more in recent years. Citizen Premier is an entirely new category within the Citizen ecosystem that launches with two of their most popular brands: Series8 and Attesa. These collections push the boundaries of Citizen’s movement technology and materials expertise. Series8 incorporates bold, contemporary designs into modern sports watches housing automatic movements, while Attesa places a focus on Super Titanium, Eco-Drive technology, and avant-garde design. It’s clear that Citizen views this announcement as a major milestone at a time when the brand is enjoying renewed strength in the enthusiast market. It’s no secret that Citizen has been on a run lately with watches targeted directly at the enthusiast community. Chances are you’ve spotted various Citizens on wrists at Windups and meetups more frequently now ...
Worn & Wound
Suppose you travel frequently between the US and Britain. In that case, one difference you’ll notice pretty swiftly after escaping the airport is the proliferation (and absence) of flags depending on which side of the pond you have arrived. Over here, you’ll typically only see a Union Flag flying outside official buildings, or on literally everything inside the many tourist shops around London. It’s not generally seen outside schools, homes or shops. However, we Brits do let a smidgen of patriotism creep out on occasion. The “Last Night of the Proms” even encourages flag waving (and rhythmic bobbing), and we feel a sense of pride celebrating Olympic medals won by superhuman efforts from individuals we only heard about two and a half hours earlier. Display the Union Flag on a watch and most Brits would turn their nose up. A stylized version of the same idea, but created by a watch brand based in the south of England, started by a gentleman from Portugal, and available in very limited numbers, and it’s a whole lot more acceptable. Sometimes we take a little outside encouragement to embrace such things. Isotope is unveiling two watches for British Watch Makers’ Day 2025, which both make vivid use of the Union Flag – the Mercury BWD Cloisonné and Mercury BWD Micro Marquetry. Isotope’s Mercury was first seen last summer in the form of a limited edition with Revolution, and was followed by a Shadow variant which used the same case and movement but a brushed in...
Time+Tide
Available in Japan only, Biver's latest watch maintains a tradition of Japanese exclusivity while showcasing a more unambiguous approach.The post Biver’s latest Automatique is its most visually restrained watch yet – but things are not as simple as they seem appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Jean-Claude Biver and his son Pierre continue their journey of independent horology with the Biver Automatique Japan Edition. Made in collaboration with its retailer in Japan, this special release is based on the time-only automatic debuted last year, but reimagined to cater to the traditionally classical taste of the Japanese collector. The minimalist edition debuts in two elegant variants that explore the contrast of light and shadow through hard-fired enamel made by an enamel workshop in Geneva’s Old Town. A stark white enamel dial is paired with a platinum case, while the high-contrast version matches a glossy black dial with a rose gold case – both share a clean, old-school aesthetic with applied markers and a railway minute track. A tribute to the Japanese collector The Automatique epitomises Biver’s neoclassical and elaborate approach to watchmaking, which blends careful detailing with hand-finishing techniques, for both habillage and the movement. Now the Japan Edition further refines the approach, condensing the more elaborate execution of the original versions into something more traditional, more classical, and arguably more reflective of the taste of Japanese enthusiasts. The two distinct models pay homage to the Japanese appreciation of minimalist aesthetics combined with high quality and precision execution, along with a well-established love of mid-century precision Swiss wristwatches. The clarity of the vintage-inspired design makes the Japan Edition ...
SJX Watches
Drawn from a Russian fairy tale about a bun coming to life, the Kolobok 2 arrives a year after Konstantin Chaykin revealed the original Kolobok. Like its predecessors in the Wristmon collection, this features a dial inspired by the titular character’s face. But the Kolobok 2 marks a departure from the first version in two notable ways: it is now a regular production watch rather than a limited edition, and it features a La Joux-Perret base movement instead of an ETA. Initial thoughts The Kolobok 2 is the latest of many Wristmon models, arguably too many to date. However, the fact that this is a regular production model, as opposed to a limited edition, is a positive development since it indicates the brand is leaving behind the multiple-edition approach. That aside, the watch itself is an upgrade over earlier versions. Although the new Kolobok 2 has the same simple functions arranged as a face, it is powered by a new movement based on the La Joux-Perret G200, replacing the modified ETA 2892-A2 used in preceding entry-level Wristmon models. This calibre is a step forward for the Wristmon model. Amongst other things that put it ahead of the ETA 2892, the G200 sports a a full balance bridge with a free-sprung balance. Another wristmon The Kolobok 2 retains the same dimensions and technical specifications as its predecessors, measuring 40 mm in diameter and 12.2 mm in thickness. As with all Wristmons, it features a notched bezel with 12 screws and a case that’s predominan...
SJX Watches
A mechanical watch is not always spot on; less-than-perfect timekeeping can happen, often due to an unruly oscillator. The solution is direct adjustments to the hairspring and balance assembly, either slowing down or speeding up the oscillator, a practice known as regulation. Watchmakers have devised multiple innovations to achieve this, including the free-sprung balance, exemplified by the Gyromax of Patek Philippe and Microstella of Rolex. While a simple concept in principle, the mechanics and practice of regulation are nuanced. Here we’ll delve into the theory of regulation and the primary regulating systems: the curb-pin regulator and the free-sprung (or variable inertia) balance. The Lange L043.4 with a screwed balance inspired by pocket watches Basic concepts In order to better understand watch regulation, we need to first cover some of the basic physics behind the watch oscillator: The component responsible for the running rate of a movement is its regulating organ. The regulating organ is made up of a hairspring paired to a balance, which together are also known as a harmonic oscillator. The natural oscillation period is the time it takes the balance to make a full swing, back and forth. The period is made up of two vibrations, one for each direction of the balance motion, with the escapement being unlocked at each vibration. Notably, the natural period of a balance wheel is intrinsic to itself and does not depend on the escapement type or the going train ratio. ...
Worn & Wound
There are a number of watchmaking technologies that are tough to appreciate until you’ve actually spent considerable time with a watch. Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive comes to mind, especially if you’re inclined to constantly check your watch’s accuracy. The consistency over time of a Spring Drive movement is kind of mindblowing if you’re used to “normal” mechanical watches. Similarly, high accuracy quartz, from any brand, is tough to wrap your arms around until you’ve gone months without needing a reset because your watch is keeping time to within a second or two. And ultra-thin watches deserve a mention here as well. A watch that you literally forget you’re wearing because it’s so thin can be a special thing when properly executed. But in terms of actually making your day to day life easier, there are few technologies that match the practicality of solar powered timekeeping. There are a bunch of brands that offer watches with solar movements, and for some it’s really become their stock-in-trade. Today, Tissot expands their solar offerings with the new PRC 100 Solar collection, bringing an aging collection up to date with some modern tech that should have broad appeal to both the mass market and the most sensible, practical, enthusiasts among us. The PRC 100 was originally introduced in the mid 2000s and is easily identified by its dodecagonal bezel. PRC is an acronym that stands for “Precise, Robust, and Classic,” which seems like the right canv...
Worn & Wound
In a monochrome, modernist twist on the recently released A1 First Series, London upstart brand Anoma-short for Anomaly- has announced its followup, the appropriately named A1 Slate. Sharing the same smooth triangular shape with rounded angles and an offset face, the A1 Slate was similarly inspired by a free-form table designed by Charlotte Perriand in the 1950s, and Constantin Brâncuși’s modernist sculptures. The new gray, black, and white color scheme, however, promises a more subtle take on the shape that aligns more with the third inspiration-river stones, smoothed over time by passing water. The 316L stainless steel triangular case is likely the first detail on the A1, whether the First Series or the Slate, that an observer will notice. Measuring in at 30mm x 38mm (though Anoma notes that the shape and lack of lugs make the fit closer to 37mm), the case is mirror-polished, and meant to refract and bend light at every angle. Without having the watch on hand, I can’t vouch for this effect, but Worn & Wound’s own Zach Weiss reviewed the A1 First Series back in January 2024 and attested to the charm of the watch’s styling and finish. The vertically-brushed dial itself stands out against the case, with individually-engraved contrasting inner triangles coated with three layers of glossy black lacquer. Leaf hour and minute hands adorn the dial, with the Anoma logo below the centerpoint. A cleverly-situated cross with lines at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clo...
Hodinkee
Former APRP and Girard-Perregaux talent join up for a bid to become the next big, complicated name on the international watch stage.
Monochrome
About a year ago, a new micro-brand launched on the scene and caused quite some noise due to its oddly shaped, slightly overdesigned but rather appealing triangular watch, the Anoma A1 Watch. The project of a young French-British watch enthusiast, Matteo Violet Vianello, the watch made a sensation with a sculptural case playing on the […]
SJX Watches
Having made its debut last summer, London-based Anoma returns with the A1 Slate, an entry level watch that punches above its weight in terms of design. Inspired by a triangular table designed in the 1950s by French designer Charlotte Perriand, the A1 Slate executes the mid-century aesthetic with aplomb. Over the past few years we’ve seen a number of unusually shaped watches come to market, perhaps as a cultural reaction to the proliferation of classical designs that otherwise dominate. Among these, the Anoma A1 stands out for its commitment to value and its undiluted form. Initial thoughts When the Anoma A1 debuted with the First Series, my first reaction was that it was simply a triangular watch. Closer examination revealed a number of intriguing details, like the offset rotation of the crystal relative to the case. The A1 Slate takes things up a notch, with an attractive grooved dial that brings the design to life. The A1 is all about its triangular stainless steel case, which is roughly 39 mm in diameter. The curved edges call to mind a Wankel rotory engine, and give the watch a pebble-like presence. A slim leather strap fits into hidden lugs, allowing the watch’s shape to remain undiluted. Like its predecessor, the A1 Slate is powered by the Sellita SW100, a diminutive automatic movement that was chosen for its ability to fit within the compact triangular case. The movement is common and industrial, which should give potential buyers confidence in its ability to be...
Deployant
We had a loaner of the new Citizen Attesa Eco-Drive Satellite Wave GPS for a couple of weeks, and here is our hands-on review of the watch.
Time+Tide
A contemporary, limited-edition take on the Fifty Fathoms formula that supports ocean conservation efforts? Sign me up.The post Blancpain’s sporty new Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV supports a good cause in style appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Last year, Seiko updated one of its best-selling models, the classic, rather compact and vintage-inspired Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver, releasing a new collection with improved mechanics, reduced dimensions, upgraded water-resistance and a new bracelet – all the evolutions can be explored in this in-depth video. As you know, this watch is a modern recreation of […]
SJX Watches
In the 1970s, arguably no watch brand was having more fun than Seiko, which launched the bold King Seiko Vanac collection in 1972. Five decades on, Seiko returns to the concept with the all-new King Seiko Vanac, with bold dial colours and an angular, faceted case inspired by its namesake. Despite an entirely new design – the modern-day Vanac is not a remake – the collection captures the style and spirit of the funky 1970s originals perfectly. Available in five different dial colours, each inspired by the Tokyo skyline at a different time of day, the Vanac also features a new automatic cal. 8L45, now the highest-spec movement for Seiko’s mid tier watches. Initial thoughts The past decade has treated us to more than our fair share of vintage reissues, which by and large have focused on the glorious designs of the 1950s and 1960s. But there are only so many historical designs from this era that a brand can revisit, and as we move into 2025, it’s nice to see a little variety as Seiko looks to the 1970s. And while the Vanac is very much vintage inspired, it isn’t quite a reissue of any particular historical model. Though the bracelet is integrated, the design is different enough from Gerald Genta’s designs that it avoids the common pitfall of looking like it’s trying too hard to look like something else. A selection of vintage Vanac watches The Vanac features a 41 mm case that is quite chunky at 14.3 mm. The case itself is essentially an elongated hexagon, with a ...
Monochrome
In 1965, Seiko entered the race for the best dive watch, much later than the Swiss did. Seiko released its first ever dive watch, known as the 62MAS, the mother of all upcoming aquatic watches of the brand. It’s a story that we’ve told many times on MONOCHROME. What matters most today is that 2025 […]
Hodinkee
Citizen celebrates the 55th anniversary of their world's-first titanium watch and the launch of the new "Citizen Premier" category.
Teddy Baldassarre
Tastes great, less filling. That’s the tagline for a famous light beer, but the same could be said for Doxa’s latest version of its iconic Sub, the 200T. It’s a slimmed-down take on the iconic Doxa Sub diver, and although it features a new case size, this might be the Doxa for people who thought they could never wear the brand, including yours truly. It’s also available in a huge array of colorways, so now there really is something for everyone when it comes to the Doxa Sub. The Doxa brand is certainly among the stars of the classic dive watch universe, and the Doxa we think of first is almost invariably the orange-dialed Sub 300 Professional from 1967, along with the black-dialed Sharkhunter version made famous by legendary oceanographer Jacques Cousteau, not to mention Robert Redford in Three Days Of The Condor. But today, we’re taking a look at the newest member of the Doxa Sub family, and there’s a lot to like here, not least of which is a lower price point. And although I haven’t been diving in quite some time, I can’t help feeling a little like an undersea explorer whenever I wear the 200T, which is quite often these days. The classic Doxa Sub 300 and 300T have always worn rather well for larger watches, due to that distinctive tonneau case shape and those short lugs, but now, there’s a new version for someone who wants a tool watch that’s a bit less…tool-like. Enter the Doxa Sub 200T, rendered in a just-right size at 39mm. Honestly, it feels li...
Deployant
A new Breitling Navitimer B19 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. It is in a steel case, 43mm case diameter, and not limited.
Fratello
As a materials engineer, I get excited whenever a watchmaker uses an atypical material. Over the last decade, carbon and ceramics have become more prevalent for watch cases. However, aside from new gold alloys, it has been relatively quiet on the metals front. Using tantalum isn’t new, but it’s so uncommon that it deserves attention […] Visit Introducing: The Ming 21.01 “Project 21” In Tantalum to read the full article.
Time+Tide
This tantalum-cased beauty is the ‘chef’s choice’ of the watch world, with Ming Thein in complete creative control.The post Would you drop $35k on a mystery watch? That’s how the Ming Project 21 Horological Omakase was funded appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
With the Windup Watch Fair Dallas just a little over a week away, we’re excited to introduce you to our Lead Sponsors and give you a taste of what to expect from their offerings this year! As a reminder, the Windup Watch Fair is free and open to the public to encourage anyone to attend, including both watch nerds and novices alike. Here are the details of our Dallas event: Hickory Street Annex 501 S Second Ave #200, Dallas, TX 75226 Saturday, March 15: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, March 16: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public No registration necessary Our Lead Sponsors at Windup Dallas-Christopher Ward, Oris, and Zodiac-are pillars of the Windup Watch Fair experience and the enthusiast community. They represent the breadth of what you can find at the show, so we’re excited to highlight a bit of what they plan to have on display. The Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT Christopher Ward, the UK-based watch company, has never shied away from a “big umbrella” approach when it comes to making price-accessible timepieces that don’t compromise on style or quality. Their latest C63 Sealander 36 GMT is no exception. True to the Sealander’s ‘Go Anywhere, Do Everything’ mantra, the 36 GMT boasts an ultra-legible dial adorned with applied indices, a twin-flags logo, a symmetrical 6 o’clock date, and brushed and polished hands filled with Super-LumiNova®. The GMT hand, featuring a vibrant orange accent, adds a sporty contrast to the White, Black, and Dragonfly Blue d...
Teddy Baldassarre
IWC is a Swiss watch company, founded by an American, whose history is closely tied with Germany. But one of its most enduringly popular timepiece families is called the Portugieser, and it’s likely that lots of enthusiasts and would-be owners don’t even know why - or that the watch itself preceded that now-familiar name by many decades. What's indisputable is the Portugieser's key role in IWC's history and its impact on watchmaking - from its humble origins as a market-specific experiment to its modern incarnation as a major pillar of IWC's collection. 1939: Two Portuguese Businessmen Walk Into a Watch Factory… Stop me if you’ve heard this one before. Actually, don’t bother, because I’ll be retelling the origin story of the IWC Portugieser anyway, for those who aren’t familiar with it. Like much of the rest of the world, in the throes of the Great Depression and under the gathering storm clouds of a second World War, the Swiss watch industry was facing rough economic times in the 1930s. The International Watch Company, based in Schaffhausen in Switzerland’s German-speaking north, dealt with the challenges in a number of practical ways. One was by making wristwatches that could be worn by military pilots for the aerial combat that was looking increasingly inevitable. (I tell that story in much more detail here.) Another was by expanding its reach to international markets such as Portugal. Thus it came to be that two gentlemen by the name of Antonio...
Hodinkee
The brand is up for whatever design challenge the community puts in front of them – so long as enough people vote for it. And now you can vote too.
Blending the Mido Commander 1959’s vintage style with modernity, this Pixel edition finds itself in a world of retro joy.The post Mido’s Commander 1959 Pixel time travels to the disco dimension appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Seiko has released a flurry of special and limited Seiko 5 models since the collection staged a comeback in 2019. Today marks the debut of a new model, the Seiko 5 Mooneyes Limited Edition. Fans of hot-rodding culture in Japan, America, and worldwide should find this one fun. Mooneyes is a supplier of custom car […] Visit Hot Take: The Seiko 5 Sports Mooneyes Limited Edition SRPL39 to read the full article.
Time+Tide
For the first time, Breitling equips a non-limited edition Navitimer with one of its most technically ambitious movements – the Calibre B19.The post Breitling’s platinum-bezeled, blue B19 belter – the Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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