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Deployant
We got our hands on the latest in the long line of M cameras from Leica. The Leica M is legendary. First introduced in 1954 as the M3, the family has an illustrious history. This is the latest member of the family – the M10-R. The Leica M10-R with the Summilux-M 35 and Summilux -MRead More
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A reissue of the Deepstar chronograph and the 2020 relaunch of the Aquastar brand
SJX Watches
Originally founded in 1962 to capitalise on the popularity of leisure diving at the time, Aquastar specialised in making diving instruments and notched up several patents, such as a “no-decompression” bezel. But like the rest of the Swiss watch industry in the 1970s, the Aquastar suffered during the Quartz Crisis and faded away, although it never really died. Now it’s been resurrected and makes it debut with, unsurprisingly, a vintage remake with the Deepstar Chronograph. Initial thoughts The Deepstar is obviously a watch of the 1960s, with the angular, tonneau-shaped case and dial design giving away its origins. The retro-diver look is now back in vogue, which was no doubt a reason behind the revival of the brand. And the popularity of the design is for good reason. It is clean and attractive, and unusual compared to today’s dive watches (although vintage remakes are increasingly common). The vintage Deepstar All of the best elements of the vintage original are found on the remake, including the oversized, “big eye” minute register. And though it’s larger than the 37 mm original – a necessity due to the La Joux-Perret movement inside – the remake is 40.5 mm, smallish by today’s standards, which means it still retains the vintage feel. Aside from the true-to-original grey dial, the Deepstar is also offered in black and blue, with an “early-bird” price of US$2,790 (which rises to US$3,590 after the initial run of 300 pieces in each colour). The pre-...
Time+Tide
Like we said in the previous instalment, 2020 has been so bad that fantasy is often all we’ve had left. Fantasies of leaving our houses are still being had daily in Melbourne, and fantasies of new watches and sunny days are not far behind. So, to try to make something good of the bad, we’ve … ContinuedThe post 2020 FANTASY WATCH COLLECTION PART 2 – What watches would we buy with a budget of $10,000 USD? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s a story we’ve been writing in our weekly editorial meeting for months and months: the idea that lug to lug measurement is a more important fit-telling metric than any other. In layman’s terms, that’s the distance between the outer tip of two opposing lugs on either side of the case. So much discussion. So … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: You need to know your ideal lug to lug size, or you’re doing watches wrong appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Moser Swiss Alp Watch is a thoroughly intriguing proposal, in what seems a familiar smooth shape of a rectangular pebble with re-imagined wire lugs. Your non-horologically biased mates, family and colleagues will no doubt pose the question as to why this has a crown and a hand-sewn alligator strap, only to be silenced by … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Moser Swiss Alp Watch is less a clever gimmick than it is just great appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
One of TAG Heuer’s most distinctive watches because of its angular, square case, the Monaco turned 50 last year and the brand marked the occasion with a variety of limited edition watches as well as a hand-finished, one-off watch that was sold to benefit charity. At the same time, the regular-production Monaco in blue – arguably the quintessential Monaco design – received a substantial upgrade, with the ETA movement replaced with the in-house cal. Heuer 02. The Monaco Calibre Heuer 02 is now also available with a black dial, and a new, retro-inspired Monaco bracelet is also making its debut. Initial thoughts The Monaco is an intrinsically interesting watch because of its case. But TAG Heuer has produced many iterations that unfortunately look similar – despite having different movements – making it difficult to distinguish between them. The latest variant still looks similar, but manages to stand out from the crowd thanks to the bracelet, which has not been part of TAG Heuer’s offerings in a long time. The new bracelet is modelled on the 1970s original, but has been made more robust while being finished better. The result is a bracelet looks original and sporty. There have been numerous Monaco variations, but most were solidly constructed and well priced. The same appears to be true here. While the Monaco Heuer 02 has a new movement and bracelet, it retains the well finished case that’s a wearable 39 mm, along with the symmetrical, “Compax” dial layou...
Revolution
The Omega Speedmaster is one of the most popular chronographs and has been made in many different iterations. We have selected a few of them worth adding to a collection.
WatchAdvice
Back in February this year, Breitling released the stunning re-edition to one of the much-loved aviation models from the past. The reference 765 AVI chronograph, born in 1953, was a popular piece among enthusiasts and is as much of a collectable now as it was back then. In 2020, Breitling decided to bring back the 765 AVI chronograph with almost the same design as the original, only this time with their modern in-house movement. Dubbed the AVI ref. 765 1953 Re-edition, this new model brings the same stylish flair as the original, but now is offered in stainless steel, 18k rose gold or 950 platinum. We at Watchadvice got our hands on the stainless steel model (reference AB0920131B1X1), as we think the black dial with steel casing is the most versatile out of the three. Before we dive into this latest re-edition, it’s good to look at the original piece’s history, to do the new one justice. Reference AB0920131B1X1 Although the Breitling AVI Ref. 765 was created in 1953, the creation of the Ref. 765 AVI started back in 1930. In 1930, Breitling released two pilot watches named the Premier ref. 765 and Ref. 734. These Ref. timepieces were more compact in design, with the tri counter layout cutting into the hour indexes. The 1930’s models were still elegant in design and would pave the future for the iconic Ref 765 Avi that would be born some 23 years later. The second world war had quite an impact on timepieces throughout the world, with many new watches coming into ...
Deployant
Panerai celebrates the reopening of the flagship boutique at ION Orchard mall in Singapore with a special edition Luminor GMT featuring customized details and available in 100 pieces starting from November. Press Release PAM01177 (Retail price: SGD13,850) LIMITED EDITION OF 100 PIECES Panerai Luminor GMT Ion Special Edition The Panerai flagship boutique located withinRead More
SJX Watches
With its auctions earlier in the year having been delayed due to the pandemic – and supplemented by weekly online sales – Sotheby’s has resumed its traditional schedule and the fall auction season in Hong Kong is now in full swing. Preceded by sales of wine, art, and jewellery, Important Watches takes place in Hong Kong in two days – at 4:00 pm on October 9. Made up of just over 180 lots, the catalogue encompasses independent watchmakers like Philippe Dufour – there are two Dufour Simplicities in the sale – who are notable and known, and also some who are less prominent today, like Antoine Preziuso and Svend Andersen. And the sale naturally the usual suspects, with the headline watch being a possibly-unique Rolex Daytona “Zenith” with a lapis lazuli dial, and perhaps the most intriguing being a quartz Rolex Beta 21 in white gold that might be one of a kind. Here’s a look at a couple of interesting lots, and the complete catalogue is available here. The lapis Daytona The white gold Rolex Beta-21 Lot 2062 – Andersen Geneve Secular Perpetual Calendar Known for his inventive complications and unique bespoke watches, Svend Andersen was a pioneer in independent watchmaking. He established his own brand in 1979 and cofounded the AHCI in 1986. Four decades on, he continues to produce watches using artisanal and traditional methods. A good example of his mechanical creativity is the secular perpetual calendar that made its debut in 1996 – the first of its...
SJX Watches
Conceived as an affordable entry into the world of the integrated-bracelet, luxury-sports watches, the BR 05 was first launched in steel, priced at a little under US$5,000. Now the brand has just taken the covers off the decidedly more lavish BR 05 Blue Gold, which is rendered in the trendy colour combination of a metallic blue dial with a rose gold case, and even a matching gold bracelet. Initial thoughts When it made its debut last year, I found the BR 05 to be as good looking as it was controversial. At a glance the design is redolent of the usual suspects in the luxury-sports watch genre. However, there’s originality to the design that is less noticeable, such as the bezel derived from the quintessential Bell & Ross (B&R;) wristwatch, the square BR 01. And the case finishing on the steel BR 05 is well done; not overly complicated yet managing to have well defined edges. All of those qualities carry over to the rose-gold variant, which coupled with the blue, sunburst-brushed dial, results in a compelling watch. But the price is far from compelling. At US$32,500 on a bracelet (and US$11,000 less on a rubber strap), the BR 05 in gold is expensive, especially since the competition is very, very strong. It is cheaper than the Royal Oak or Overseas in solid gold, but the difference doesn’t seem like that much of a stretch at this level. The Overseas in gold, for instance, costs a little over US$46,000. A good look While the value proposition in terms of the movement an...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: As we discussed here and in Part 1 of this article, watch lug to lug is an oft misunderstood element in finding the perfect fitting watch to your wrist. Here’s why. Ressence Type 1 Slim (42mm x 46mm) While some Ressence Type references push upwards of 52mm lug to lug, if you are … ContinuedThe post Big watches for small wrists – 10 watches that wear smaller than their case diameters Part 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Relatively simple men's watches are perhaps the most popular watches by sales, and the nominated watches in the 2020 GPHG highlight that this is a vintage year for the genre. So it's not surprising that our panelists are split three ways in their predictions for the winner. Find out what we think about all of the contenders and how ruthless we were in comparing them here.
Hodinkee
A green dial and bezel for a tough diver's chrono.
Time+Tide
Ceramic is a notoriously tricky material to work with in watchmaking, with only a handful of brands able to produce the material at scale. One of the few brands that can claim to have mastered it is Rado, who are well known for their brightly coloured and scratch-resistant timepieces. While Rado use the material throughout … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Thinking outside the box with the Rado True Square collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It goes without saying that fans of Omega Speedmaster are some of the most ardently passionate people within the watch community and, indeed, the general population. As a watchmaker, Omega understand and foster this enthusiasm, and have this year acknowledged the legions of Speedy supporters with a very special new release. To commemorate one of … ContinuedThe post An old dog has learned a new trick with the new NON-limited Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’ 50th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Celebrate James Bond Day with some style and gadgetry.
Revolution
After the 2003 Blue Snoopy and the 2015 Silver Snoopy, Omega now presents the highly anticipated, Speedmaster “Silver Snoopy Award” 50th Anniversary.
SJX Watches
In one fo the most widely predicted announcements of the year, Omega has just unveiled the Speedmaster “Silver Snoopy Award” 50th Anniversary. Essentially the latest-generation Speedmaster Moonwatch dressed up in Snoopy livery, the watch commemorates the Silver Snoopy award bestowed on Omega by NASA in 1970. And crucially, this is not a limited edition, unlike the two earlier Speedmaster Snoopy editions. Initial thoughts While hardly a surprise, the new Speedmaster Snoopy is an attractive variant of the Speedmaster. While the design elements are the most obvious, the coolest bit of the new watch is on the back: the running indicators linked to the dial are a nifty detail that sets this apart mechanically from all other Speedmasters. But there really are so many Speedmaster limited editions. The new Speedmaster Snoopy is not a limited edition, which is probably disappointing news to owners of the earlier editions, which were limited. That said, with a price of about US$9,000, the new Speedmaster Snoopy is modestly priced – it is intrinsically a well-priced watch offering solid value – and will no doubt sell extremely well, at least initially, until supply catches up with demand. Saving the day 50 years ago Because the crew of the disastrous Apollo 13 mission used their Speedmasters to time a 14-second engine burn to position the craft for reentry into Earth’s atmosphere – an explosion forced them to shut down the craft’s electronic systems – the Omega chrono...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet has been progressively unveiling increasingly compelling versions of the Code 11.59, starting the year with the smoked-dial models and then following with the tourbillon-chronograph. And now it’s revealed what is no doubt the flagship of the line, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Carillon Supersonnerie. Originally slated to have been launched earlier in the year alongside the official opening of the Audemars Piguet Museum but delayed by the pandemic, the Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie is powered by a movement enhanced with the brand’s Supersonnerie that results in one of the loudest chiming watches on the market. The pusher at 11 o’clock activates the minute repeater, while the crown at two o’clock sets the strike mode – silent, grande or petite sonnerie Beyond its technical innovation, the new Grande Sonnerie is bestowed with a dial made by Anita Porchet. It’s a limited edition of five watches, with three unique paillonné dials already having been made, while the remaining two dials can be customised by the buyer. Initial thoughts The new Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie is a well-designed watch that is surprisingly simple in style. Like the recent Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon, the grande sonnerie is strikingly modern, but the paillonné technique used to create the dial is eminently artisanal and classical. The gold paillons are arranged at random, giving the enamel dial a beautiful, almost organic appearance. Mec...
SJX Watches
Having pivoted to take a more interesting direction – exemplified by its recent collaboration with watch designer Alain Silberstein – Louis Erard is now working on facelifting its more classical watches to give them a more contemporary appearance. The result is the Excellence Triptych, a trio of watches that are simple yet smartly detailed. Made up of a time-only, regulator, and mono-pusher chronograph, the line up is named after a three-panelled painting, perhaps reflecting the artistic interests of Manuel Emch, the former chief executive of Jaquet Droz who is now a consultant to Louis Erard and responsible for the brand’s renewal. The Excellence Triptych (from left): Petite Second, Régulateur, Chronographe Monopoussoir Initial thoughts The Triptych is fundamentally appealing because of its reasonable and affordable pricing, starting from about US$1,600 for the time-only and rising to a still-modest US$3,800 for the mono-pusher chronograph. The intrinsic value is especially strong for the regulator, as the complication is rarely seen in this price segment (though Louis Erard has made it something of a speciality). The Régulateur And the facelift is subtle but significantly, boosting their visual appeal over the earlier generation of watches. Amongst the more obvious tweaks was replacing the Roman numerals with applied Arabics and batons, while also sharpening the lance-shaped hands, giving the watch a more modern look. While the dials are in a muted silver, ...
Quill & Pad
The GPHG foundation describes the Ladies Complication category for watches entered as “women’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity." And our panelists wonder: is a tourbillon enough to take home the prize?
Time+Tide
A round watch case like few others, sharp angles, quirky Japanese design and a Swiss movement? Surely that can grab your attention, even in these weeks of big stories from Switzerland. At a time when just as many gravitate towards the well known, we have the ones that turn towards another path, a path less … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Minase Divido appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
When it comes to dress watches, its design is somewhat always predictable: Simple, elegant, and unassuming. Due to the fact that there are only so few elements for the watch manufacturers to explore, most of the dress watches have more similarities than differences. Hence, there are quite a sizeable number of collectors that find dressRead More
Quill & Pad
The Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace features a pair of hearts that mesh with the point of one heart meeting the cleft of the other and moving at constantly differing speeds for an utterly enchanting effect. Joshua Munchow feels that it also offers a perfect horological metaphor for the complexities of love. What do you think?
Time+Tide
The SRPE39K is Seiko's new take on the “King Turtle”. With a blue degradè dial and stingray motif, this is one sharp-looking watch.The post INTRODUCING: These incredible photos of the Seiko SRPE39K Save The Ocean say it all appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
For watches released this year, blue has definitely been a trending dial colour. Tudor, Panerai, Montblanc, and more have all released blue watches this year – making it hard to stand out in its usage. H. Moser & Cie, however, is always up to the challenge and continually preserves its status as a pioneering haute … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Funky Blue Black Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Of mainsprings and Tri-synchro regulators.
Time+Tide
See how the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Steel fares next to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref.15202 and the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711.The post Does the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Steel truly belong with the big hitters? We put two Trinity Watches next to it to find out…. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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