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Back To Basics: Making Sense Of Ébauche Time-Only And Time-And-Date Movements Fratello
Feb 14, 2026

Back To Basics: Making Sense Of Ébauche Time-Only And Time-And-Date Movements

Welcome back to another instalment of Back to Basics, our series aimed at newcomers to our lovely watch hobby. This time, we will look into ébauche movements. “What is an ébauche movement?” might be your first question. Well, this is the term used for third-party watch movements used by multiple watch brands. As a result, […] Visit Back To Basics: Making Sense Of Ébauche Time-Only And Time-And-Date Movements to read the full article.

eBay Finds: Full Sets from Angelus and Longines, Plus a Rare Vintage Seiko Worn & Wound
Longines Plus Feb 13, 2026

eBay Finds: Full Sets from Angelus and Longines, Plus a Rare Vintage Seiko

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Longines Admiral  Leading off this week we have a stylish vintage Longines dress watch. The 35mm yellow gold filled case is a classic round style with simple, straight lugs and a steel back. The case is unpolished, with nice crisp edges. The silver dial looks fantastic, with slim arrow markers and no pesky date window and sword style hands. The original crown is signed with the Longines winged hourglass logo as it should. The watch comes on the original Milanese mesh bracelet with a signed buckle. Very elegant and classy look overall. The watch comes with the inner and outer boxes as well as the instruction and warranty booklets. The case is a front-loading type and there are no pictures of the movement, however the watch runs well per the seller. View auction here Vintage Omega Geneve Dynamic  Next up is a wild and unique vintage Omega Geneve Dynamic. This watch is about as pure 1970s funk as it gets! The 41mm wide horizontal oval case is superb and unpolished, with sharp edges and the original brushed finish. The crazy original strap doesn’t attach to lugs, instead it has a big hole in the middle that sits up against the case and is held on by the retaining ring on the bac...

The COSC Introduces the New Excellence Chronometer Certification Worn & Wound
Tudor as well as other Feb 12, 2026

The COSC Introduces the New Excellence Chronometer Certification

The Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC, the body responsible for certifying watch movements as Swiss chronometers) has just announced a new chronometry standard that will be rolled out over the course of 2026. The news comes at a time when the COSC has some competition for timekeeping certifications, most notably the METAS certification (which first requires a watch movement to be COSC certified) used by Omega and Tudor, as well as other certifications provided by the brands themselves.  The new COSC certification is being framed as an additional level of certification that will accompany the familiar “Certified Chronometer” tag that is seen on the dials and paperwork of millions (literally) of watches that have been put through the COSC paces over the years. The new “Excellence Chronomenter” certification provides an additional layer of guarantee of reliability that goes beyond simple accuracy. As a refresher, COSC certification certifies the movement is working at an optimal level, not a fully cased watch. To achieve a Certified Chronometer certification, a movement must show average accuracy of -4 to +6 seconds per day over a 15 day period, tested across 5 positions and 3 temperatures.  The Excellence Chronometer certification tightens the accuracy threshold from a spread of 10 seconds in total to 6 (-2 to +4 seconds per day). It also adds metrics for magnetic resistance and power reserve verification in fully cased watches. According to the COS...

The 18 Best Japanese Watch Brands For 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 12, 2026

The 18 Best Japanese Watch Brands For 2026

Before we get into the best Japanese watch brands for 2026, let's discuss Japan's role in watchmaking. Outside of Switzerland, Japan is probably the best-known watchmaking country, producing some of the world’s best watches in every category and at nearly every price point. When most people think about Japanese watches, their thoughts still likely envision mostly inexpensive and mostly quartz-powered watches from well-known, mass-market brands like Casio, Seiko, and Citizen. and to be sure, Japan is rightly regarded as a value leader in the global watch market, led by inexpensive but wildly popular and collectible watches like Casio's G-Shocks and Seiko's classically styled, automatic diver’s watches like the SKX series. However, Japan is also an excellent source for watches in the mid-level, luxury, and high-watchmaking categories, from both the country's handful of major players as well as from exciting, younger independent brands. [toc-section heading="Seiko"] At this point, Seiko is synonymous with Japanese watchmaking. The company was founded in 1881 by Kintaro Hattori and got its start by selling and repairing watches and clocks. Just 11 years later, Hattori started producing clocks and then pocket watches, followed closely by the company’s, and Japan’s, first wristwatch in 1913. The 1960s was a period of rapid growth for the company. Not only did Seiko introduce the first Grand Seiko watch and also Japan’s first dive watch, but the firm also gained interna...

Citizen Introduces the Promaster Land GMT Worn & Wound
Citizen Introduces Feb 11, 2026

Citizen Introduces the Promaster Land GMT

So vast and varied is the Citizen lineup, that it’s easy to miss new releases, even when they definitely shouldn’t be missed. It’s that breadth and diversity of models that make Citizen such a storied brand, and two new Promaster models are fresh on the scene to add even more flavor.  The Promaster Land GMT touts travel-ready capabilities of the Promaster Air GMT, but focuses it on grounded robustness instead of pilot task-managing. All of that sounds complicated, but really boils down to aesthetics, materials, and sizing. With two dial color options, the Promaster Land is burly and simple, but bold enough to catch some attention on the wrist. Both models feature a 39.5mm stainless steel case with a fixed 24-hour GMT bezel, giving the watch a muscular, no-nonsense silhouette, whether on the provided bracelet or strap. Even numbers receive the numeral treatment on the bezel, with indices marking the odds. The crown sits at 6 o’clock, matching the date window, and providing a standard, balanced profile that appears almost soft, given the dimensions of the case, and the typeface used.  The two dial colors reflect the practicality-first design ethos of the Promaster Land: red and blue, or reference BJ7150-50W and BJ7150-09L respectively. Both feature the same detail accoutrements, with large, effortlessly visible white numerals and hour, minute, and second hands, and a yellow, arrow-tipped GMT hand. A relatively subtle minute track circles the dial, but doesn’t dra...

Back To Basics: How To Evaluate A Vintage Watch And Avoid Buying A Dud Fratello
Feb 11, 2026

Back To Basics: How To Evaluate A Vintage Watch And Avoid Buying A Dud

Welcome back to another installment of Back to Basics, our series aimed at newcomers to the watch hobby. This time, I will share some tips on how to evaluate a vintage watch and avoid buying a dud. This article is aimed particularly at those looking to buy their first vintage watch. As always with Back […] Visit Back To Basics: How To Evaluate A Vintage Watch And Avoid Buying A Dud to read the full article.

Hands-on – Timex MK1 Automatic, a Faithful and Truly Accessible Take on the Military Watch Genre Monochrome
Timex MK1 Automatic Feb 10, 2026

Hands-on – Timex MK1 Automatic, a Faithful and Truly Accessible Take on the Military Watch Genre

Timex has been on a roll in the last few years, returning to mechanical watches after a decades-long hiatus. Quartz watches still dominate the portfolio, of course, ever since the brand first ceased mechanical production in 1982. A renewed focus on mechanical collections at lower and mid-tier levels began in 2017 after the 1960s-era hand-wound […]

Why My First Speedmaster Had To Be The Calibre 321 Fratello
Feb 10, 2026

Why My First Speedmaster Had To Be The Calibre 321

Having been a part of the Fratello team for more than five years, I suspect some people might find it mildly shocking that it’s taken me this long to add a Speedmaster to my collection. With Fratello being so closely associated with the mighty Speedy, not owning one almost felt sacrilegious. The truth is simpler. […] Visit Why My First Speedmaster Had To Be The Calibre 321 to read the full article.

Precious, Not Pretentious: Introducing the Niton Prima Worn & Wound
Cartier Feb 9, 2026

Precious, Not Pretentious: Introducing the Niton Prima

The great thing about watches is that, although they all essentially do the same thing, plus or minus some bells and whistles, there are an infinite number of ways to achieve it. Whether through form, function, or fashion, cleverness finds a way. I’ve been looking at watches for almost my entire life, but professionally for 15 years, and I can still be surprised and excited by a new release. It’s part of what makes this industry so great to be a part of. But, this isn’t about me; rather, it’s about a watch that both surprised and excited: the Niton Prima. Niton (pronounced nee-tone) is an old and obscure brand name revived by two veterans of the watch industry, Leopoldo Celi and Yvan Ketterer, who combined have several decades of experience in design, production, and marketing. Originally founded in 1919, Niton was known for its movement manufacturing and for supplying to brands such as Patek, Cartier, and Chopard. It was also one of the largest producers of movements with Geneva Seal certification. A certification dating to 1886, among its many requirements, which cover everything from reliability to finishing standards, are that movements are assembled, adjusted, and cased in Geneva. credit: Bonhams In 1928, Niton registered a jump-hour design with a distinct display, placing the hour window above separate minute and seconds sub-dials, much like a regulator. Featured in wrist watches and pocketwatches, it’s this complication, identified by Leopoldo and Yvan as ...

Seiko Luxe Presage SPB495 Review: An Enamel Value Proposition Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Feb 9, 2026

Seiko Luxe Presage SPB495 Review: An Enamel Value Proposition

Seiko has one of the most expansive catalogs in the watch industry, which is key to the Japanese brand’s prowess, but its nuances can also make it quite overwhelming at times to sort through from a consumer perspective. Today, I’m going for hyperspecificity on multiple levels, not only focusing on the brand’s “Luxe” tier, but also on a specific series within that tier, and on one watch, well, specifically. As you’ve likely already noticed from this article's title, we’re gathered here today to jump into the deep end with the Presage Classics Craftsmanship Series SPB495. Though its name doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue, the Seiko Presage SPB495, to me, truly demonstrates the dynamic range to be found within the contemporary Seiko lineup, given that you have the patience to sort through the complexities of the brand’s collections and naming convention nuances. [toc-section heading="History And Context"]  Seiko’s Craftsmanship series officially made its start in 2013 as the brand celebrated its centennial anniversary. Positioned within the larger Presage collection, this initiative has been a way for the brand to further enhance the collection's foundational elements, mainly being a mechanical line, guided by and harkening to Seiko’s centuries-long history, with a focused attention to its dials. Essentially, the Craftsmanship series adds in more sophisticated, high-end elements into the mix, paying tribute to many traditional, artisanal techniques th...

Introducing: The Chopard × Zagato Lab One Concept Watch - Experimental, Outspoken, And Just 43.2 Grams Fratello
Chopard × Zagato Lab One Feb 9, 2026

Introducing: The Chopard × Zagato Lab One Concept Watch - Experimental, Outspoken, And Just 43.2 Grams

Chopard working with Zagato is a bold move. Of all the famous Italian coachbuilders, Zagato is the most outspoken. The marque dates back to 1919, and its automotive legacy started in 1928, when a Zagato-bodied Alfa Romeo 1750 claimed victory at the Mille Miglia. The bulbous forms and flowing shapes recall Ugo Zagato’s expertise in […] Visit Introducing: The Chopard × Zagato Lab One Concept Watch - Experimental, Outspoken, And Just 43.2 Grams to read the full article.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces A New Overseas Tourbillon In Titanium With A Deep Red Dial Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Feb 7, 2026

Vacheron Constantin Introduces A New Overseas Tourbillon In Titanium With A Deep Red Dial

Vacheron Constantin unveils a new Overseas Tourbillon model with a captivating deep red sunburst dial. The aperture at 6 o’clock provides an unobstructed view of the tourbillon regulator, with the 22K gold peripheral rotor allowing light through the case back’s sapphire display. This model is the third iteration of the Overseas Tourbillon in a Grade […] Visit Vacheron Constantin Introduces A New Overseas Tourbillon In Titanium With A Deep Red Dial to read the full article.

Three New “Codes” To Crack: Two 38mm Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Watches And One 41mm Tourbillon Fratello
Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Watches Feb 7, 2026

Three New “Codes” To Crack: Two 38mm Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Watches And One 41mm Tourbillon

Let bygones be bygones. When the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet collection debuted in January 2019 at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), the reception was mixed, to put it mildly. Since then, the collection has evolved and become increasingly refined. The upgrade that won me over was the elaborate stamped dial that […] Visit Three New “Codes” To Crack: Two 38mm Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Watches And One 41mm Tourbillon to read the full article.

A Hands-On Comparison of the Omega Speedmaster Black and White, White Dial, and Classic Moonwatch Worn & Wound
Omega Speedmaster Black Feb 6, 2026

A Hands-On Comparison of the Omega Speedmaster Black and White, White Dial, and Classic Moonwatch

There are certain “easy wins” with watch enthusiasts that brands rely on. Put a line of red text on a black dial diver, and you’ll get some smiles. Add a micro-adjust to your clasp, and you’ll avoid some angry emails. Drill your lugs, and… well, I at least will be excited. And when it comes to chronographs, a sure-fire way to get some attention is to invert your sub-dials. Yep, though it has been done countless times, “panda” dials still get the thumbs-up from us nerds. So, it was no surprise that the recently released “Black and White” Speedmasters (which, to those of us from NYC, brings to mind a certain iconic cookie before a watch dial) were received with much excitement. Take one of the most celebrated watches in production, give it a dial treatment that is hard to mess up, and, unsurprisingly, you have a hit. Well done, Omega. Yeah, the Speedmaster Black and White is very nice looking To make matters more exciting, despite the many, many, many versions of Speedmasters over the years, Pandas are not common among them. I’m no Speedy scholar, so my internal reference archive isn’t complete, but having been the occasional Speedy customer, I know that pandas were few and far between, usually limited, or precious metal, and rarely a “reverse” or “evil” panda (white sub-dial on a black surface) in form. That this new model is available in steel and not limited actually makes them special, by not being special. The dilemma, if you can call it th...

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour Feb 6, 2026

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour

Having celebrated its 150th anniversary in 2025, Audemars Piguet (AP) has kicked off 2026 with a slate of new models, including one of the most complicated watches in its history. But it was a simpler watch that that generated the most buzz at the glamorous launch event in the Swiss alps: the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, which is both a new watch and the beginning of a new collection that replaces the [Re]master series. The Neo Frame is a regular production wristwatch in 18k rose gold inspired by the Pre-model 1271, a historical AP reference from 1929. Though rooted in the Art Deco era, the Neo Frame is an eminently modern watch with a novel case and dial construction and the brand’s latest-generation automatic movement. Initial thoughts The name Audemars Piguet is nearly synonymous with that of its signature product, the Royal Oak. While many brands would probably trade their entire catalogues to have a single hit like the Royal Oak, AP has sought to diversify its product line up with the introduction of collections like the Code 11.59 and the short-lived [Re]master series. Despite these efforts, the Royal Oak family remains AP’s commercial engine, making the introduction of a new collection, anchored by a rectangular jumping hours watch, especially notable. The jumping hours complication seems to be enjoying renewed interest among collectors, which makes release of the Neo Frame feel timely. But up close and on the wrist, it doesn’t look or feel like anything else on t...

IWC Introduces a Pair of Limited Edition Pilot’s Watches in Collaboration with F1 Driver George Russell Worn & Wound
IWC Introduces Feb 5, 2026

IWC Introduces a Pair of Limited Edition Pilot’s Watches in Collaboration with F1 Driver George Russell

Recently, over the course of a brutally cold weekend here in Concord, NH, I rewatched last year’s F1, the Brad Pitt vehicle that is essentially a very long advertisement for the sport for which it is named. It’s a fun movie, and even though it was made for giant screens and deafening surround sound systems, it played just fine at home as a fairly standard sports movie. I had been wanting to give the film another look as it was recently nominated for Best Picture at the Academy Awards (a bit of a surprise to most observers) and figured it was time to see how it stood up to a repeat viewing. The answer is that it’s still really enjoyable popcorn fare, but my one real reservation is in the almost nonstop product placement.  IWC watches factor heavily into the texture of the film itself. If you look closely, you can see a watch or the IWC logo in more scenes than not. It speaks to the importance of the relationship between IWC and F1, so I was not at all surprised when I learned that IWC’s first big novelty release of the year would be a pair of watches representing a collaboration between the brand and F1 driver George Russell, who races for the Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS team, which IWC has had a longstanding relationship with.  Unlike previous watches IWC has released as part of their partnership with Mercedes-AMG PETRONAS, this one is tied to a specific driver. Rather than the teal color highlighted in those earlier watches, these feature a more traditional blue hue, ...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Neo Frame Jumping Hour Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Introduces Feb 5, 2026

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Neo Frame Jumping Hour

I have what you might call a love/hate relationship with Audemars Piguet. They are, without a doubt, makers of some of the finest watches in the world. Objectively speaking, there’s a level of craft involved with the production of AP watches that is hard to match at the scale at which they operate. Every Royal Oak I’ve ever handled feels like a perfectly made thing without any compromises. I honestly can’t say the same about equivalent watches from other brands in the so-called Holy Trinity.  And yet, there’s so much baggage with Audemars Piguet in our current watch culture. I wrote about it here, specifically as it relates to the Royal Oak and how it has become a signifier of wealth and status that has overshadowed watchmaking and watch culture. I find this flex culture to be a huge turn off, and the way AP seems to lean into it, by producing more and more varieties of Royal Oak, some with mini sculptures of Marvel characters on the dial, to be a signal that they’re a willing participant in the watering down of their brand.  But then Audemars Piguet will go ahead and release something beautiful that is not a Royal Oak and I’m reminded that derisively referring to them as The Royal Oak Company (something I’ve done frequently over these last few years) is ultimately unfair. Earlier this week, as part of a larger drop that included several exotic Royal Oaks, a pocket watch, and more, AP launched what might be one of the riskier watches they’ve introduced in...

Introducing: The Louis Vuitton × De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Varius Fratello
Louis Vuitton × De Bethune LVDB-03 Feb 5, 2026

Introducing: The Louis Vuitton × De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Varius

Collaborations in high watchmaking are nothing new, but most stop at the wrist. The LA VDB-03 Louis Varius Project goes a step further by pairing a modern GMT wristwatch with a large mechanical clock designed to wind and reset it automatically. Developed jointly by Louis Vuitton and De Bethune, the project brings together a contemporary […] Visit Introducing: The Louis Vuitton × De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Varius to read the full article.

Audemars Piguet Jumps Retro with the Neo Frame SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jumps Retro Feb 4, 2026

Audemars Piguet Jumps Retro with the Neo Frame

Ahead of its much anticipated Watches & Wonders return, Audemars Piguet (AP) has reached deep into its archives for what in past years would have been a [RE]Master model. But now AP has renamed its vintage reissues, and it is the Neo Frame Jumping Hour that takes inspiration from a similar guichet model from 1929. This perfectly timed launch comes at a time of renewed interest in the digital display format. Initial thoughts Each time an established brand launches a completely new collection, the public response can be either positive (think Rolex Land-Dweller) or underwhelming. AP has come face-to-face with this in the past with the Code 11.59, which was bold but not well received initially (though much of the early criticism can be chalked up to cynicism). That experience hasn’t stopped the brand from continuing to diversify its portfolio away from the Royal Oak, and the latest effort capitalises on the growing interest in guichet watches. In doing so, AP reimagines an obscure piece from its own past, adding strong touches of modern design to create something with a more distinctive visual identity than one might expect from a simple jumping hours watch. Though the Neo Frame nomenclature might take a while to enter the vernacular, the guichet design feels like it’s coming to market at the right time. Ironically, the sleek profile of the Neo Frame’s case looks much like a sports smart band - albeit much glossier. Specifically, the way the polished black face connec...

Enamel Dial Watches: 10 Of Our Favorites Teddy Baldassarre
Feb 3, 2026

Enamel Dial Watches: 10 Of Our Favorites

Watches with enamel dials rarely fail to impress with their exquisitely finished surfaces, their impressive durability, and a level of artisanal craftsmanship that might not even be readily apparent to the naked eye but somehow elevates the entire timepiece to a higher level of luxury. Enamel dials - which are made by fusing finely ground, colored glass powders onto metal substrates through repeated firings in a kiln at high temperatures - are still fairly rare in the watch world, and almost (but not entirely) impossible to find below a certain echelon of pricing, Often, as in some of the limited editions below, an enamel dial is one essential component of a timepiece that combines several notable elements, including elite or unusual case metals, high-complication movements, or any number of special features. Here are 10 watches with enamel dials that have caught our eye over recent years.  [toc-section heading="A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst"] Price: 315,000 euros at release, Case Size: 29.5mm x 39.2mm, Thickness: 10.3mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Manually wound Caliber L042.1 In 2008, German haute horlogerie house A. Lange & Söhne brought a technical upgrade to the tourbillon - an 18th century invention originally designed to shield a watch’s balance from the ill effects of gravity - that was both subtle and substantial. The Saxon brand’s Cabaret Tourbillon featured the first tourbillon movement with a st...