Revolution
Gerald Genta’s Bestselling Designs Head to Auctions
Genta’s original watch designs of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus and more are paired with NFTs at Sotheby’s 2022 auctions.
Results for Glashütte Original Caliber 36
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Revolution
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Sotheby’s to Sell Gerald Genta’s Own Royal Oak
A watch designer whose talent lives on in his work, the late Gérald Genta was exceptionally prolific – he claimed to have penned over 100,000 creations. His family still possesses some 3,400 original sketches covering a bewildering diversity of timepieces. From that, a hundred sketches have been curated to form Gérald Genta: Icon of Time, a series of four thematic auctions staged by Sotheby’s in the first half of the year. The brainchild of Genta’s wife, Evelyne, the auctions will offer original sketches of his best known creations, including the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Disney Fantasy watches – each accompanied by a non-fungible token (NFT). Three of Genta’s best known designs. Notably, the illustration of the Nautilus includes its case profile, unlike most of his sketches that depict only the front of the watch Essentially digital representations of the sketches, the NFTs “serve as a record of ownership and proof of provenance for each design, ensuring the value of each physical artwork is intrinsically connected to its digital counterpart which cannot be resold without the NFT that attests to the legitimacy of the piece” according to Sotheby’s. And these original works will be affordable, with each sketch and its NFT starting at just US$100, CHF100, or HK$1,000, depending on the sale location. But the highlight of the event is an actual watch – Genta’s own personal Royal Oak. Slated to be sold at the final instalment of the event taking place...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph
Born in 1972, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is known for being the original luxury stainless-steel sports watch. The line has since grown and evolved, with multiple collections making up the Royal Oak name. The Offshore was developed to speak to the modern consumer, who at the time of its launch was skewing towards larger … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43 Flyback Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Czapek Debuts the Antarctique “Monochrome White”
Revived six years ago via crowdfunding, Czapek’s original claim to fame was being the original business partner of Patek before he joined with Philippe. The brand has since gained traction thanks to its proprietary movements and more recently, a sports watch with an integrated bracelet. Now the sports watch is the basis of a collaboration between Czapek and Dutch watch magazine Monochrome. Featuring a muted, all-white livery, the Antarctique “Monochrome White” has a grained dial in pearl white. Initial thoughts While the Antarctique is a new entry into the integrated-bracelet sports watch segment, the design sticks to a familiar formula because there are only so many ways a sports watch with an integrated bracelet can be accomplished. The Monochrome edition sets itself apart with its white dial – a good look that’s unusual for a sports watch, a category where blue, grey, and green dials dominate. It’s a refreshing look that’s also practical, as light-coloured dial makes for good legibility. The case and bracelet of the Antarctique are also finished neatly with contrasting surfaces, but where the watch shines is the movement. Developed in-house with the help of specialists, it’s a micro-rotor automatic with a modern style but unusual details that evoke vintage pocket watch movements. Few competitors in this category and price range have movements that are similarly elaborate in construction and finish. The individual “finger” bridges for the gear tra...
Revolution
Introducing Hublot x Arturo Fuente Ceramic Big Bang Unico
The latest collaboration between Hublot and Arturo Fuente cigar company pays tribute to Carlos A. Fuente with a Big Bang Ceramic limited edition fitted with Unico manufacture caliber.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Bremont Supermarine Descent II is a GMT diver with supermodel looks
Every once in a while, a watch just grabs me right in the feels. And oh boy, does this watch get me. I’ve been a Bremont fan for some time, especially of the original Supermarine 500, an elegant yet bomb-proof diver, executed at an extremely high level of craftsmanship. If Bremont were looking for a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bremont Supermarine Descent II is a GMT diver with supermodel looks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
New: Greubel Forsey Balancier S2
Greubel Forsey adds the new Balancier S2, to their lineup, featuring a more contemporary aesthetic with a new case, new finishing but with the same caliber.
Revolution
Introducing the Hanhart Bronze 417 Chronograph Edition No. 2 “Copperhead” For Revolution & The Rake
The much sought after Hanhart 417 Chronograph for Revolution & The Rake returns in 39mm, the size of the original 1950s 417 model, with a new bronze alloy and a stunning brown sunray dial.
Quill & Pad
Piper-Heidsieck Launches Hors-Série 1971 Champagne: An Incredible 48 Years On Lees!
An email arrived: would Ken Gargett be interested in tasting an original prestige champagne from the popular house of Piper-Heidsieck? This is the sort of invitation he would crawl over broken glass to be part of and he shares his experiences here. Spoiler alert: Ken rates the 50-year-old champagne 99/100!
Deployant
New: Breitling Super AVI B04. With live pics and prices.
Breitling salutes the aviation history with the new Super AVI collection with watches inspired by the original 1953 “Co-Pilot” Ref. 765 AVI aviator’s watch and four legendary planes: the North American Aviation P-51 Mustang, the Vought F4U Corsair, the Curtiss P-40 Warhawk, and the de Havilland Mosquito. Press Release info with live photographs. We haveRead More
Time+Tide
Hamilton launches collaborative Capsule Collection with Mad Men’s costume designer Janie Bryant
There is a school of thought that nothing is truly original, and everything that exists now is just a riff based on something that has gone before (and many times is just a pale shadow of its forebears). And with the amount of sequels that Hollywood pumps out on an endless basis (hey, it was … ContinuedThe post Hamilton launches collaborative Capsule Collection with Mad Men’s costume designer Janie Bryant appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Franc Vila Returns with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero
A Spanish watch designer who founded one of the hot independent brands during the lead up to the last financial crisis, Franc Vila has made a quiet return with the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. Turning away from the excessive style that characterised his original watches, Mr Vila now relies on the movement construction to create a distinctive aesthetic. Produced by an unnamed independent watchmaker, the FVF1 movement is open-worked to give it an airy feel. And it features a novel “piston” mechanism for the roller indicator for the day. Initial thoughts When I first encountered the FVF1 C2, it was interesting both from a visual and technical perspective. But I was sceptical as the brand has baggage. Mr Vila’s original brand went under after the finial crisis of 2007-2008. And while it was successful before it was not – at its peak the brand perhaps 500 watches a year – that brand’s watches were oddly styled, with a dial that resembled a monkey’s head (or a cobra according to the brand itself). But a decade has passed and Mr Vila’s latest creation is appealing. The styling found in his original watches has been dialled back, which is a good thing. The movement is open-worked and unusually constructed, giving it a distinctive look despite the simple outline of the case. At the same time, it has a novel mechanical function with the “piston” adjuster for the day indicator. And it is also finished attractively to a level similar to that of the Poincon de G...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Bathyscaphe Titanium is a sexy beast of a dive watch
Fifty Fathoms. It’s a reference to an antiquated British unit of measure of approximately 91 and a half metres, but in the realm of horology, it’s synonymous with one of the first (along with Rolex’s Submariner) purpose-built dive watches, and its history is long and storied. First introduced in 1953, the original Blancpain Fifty Fathoms … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Blancpain Bathyscaphe Titanium is a sexy beast of a dive watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Is the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 the most batshit crazy watch of the year?
What’s been the most visually bonkers watch of the year? Possible contenders would have to include the Louis Vuitton Carpe Diem and the MB&F; M.A.D.1 Pink Dial Project. But fresh competition now comes in the form of the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021. To be fair, the dial of the original Zenith … ContinuedThe post Is the Zenith DEFY 21 Double Tourbillon Only Watch 2021 the most batshit crazy watch of the year? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The CuleM Skyline GMT Collection
When it comes down to it, a watch with a GMT complication is really just a love letter to travelling. Regardless of their original purpose as pilot’s watches or otherwise, whenever someone sees a GMT their mind instantly imagines adjusting that little fourth hand to their home time while taking off to somewhere new and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The CuleM Skyline GMT Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hands-On: Seiko Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation
Most familiar with its metallic, forest-green dial, the modern-day Seiko Alpinist is a mid-range model that’s long been a crowd-favourite for its distinctive design and affordability. But today’s Alpinist with its distinctive twin crowns, a design introduced in 1998, couldn’t be further from the original Laurel Alpinist that debuted over half a century ago as a sports watch catered to mountaineers. The original Alpinist of 1959. Photo – Seiko Seiko has successful grown the current Alpinist line up to encompass a diversity of models – all of which feature alternating Arabic and arrowhead hour markers – but finally returned to the original design of 1959 with a quartet of vintage-inspired reissues that were launched earlier in the year. Amongst the four, the standout is the Prospex 1959 Alpinist Re-creation (ref. SJE085 or SBEN001), which is almost a like-for-like reissue (the other remakes are more loosely based on the original and officially known “Re-interpretations”). Most closely resembling the vintage original, the Alpinist Re-creation is the flagship model of the remakes, having a more elaborate execution as well as a higher-end movement. A cool “Bund” style strap with zigzag stitching evokes the strap on the 1959 original Initial thoughts The Alpinist Re-creation is an appealing little watch that’s almost straight out of a 1950s watch catalogue – save for the date window – thanks to the smallish 36.6 mm case and retro-style dial. It certa...
SJX Watches
Quick Take: Longines Legend Diver Watch in Gradient Blue and Brown
Introduced in 2007 as Longines’ first remake of a vintage sports watch, the original Legend Diver was one of the earliest entries into the vintage-reissue segment. And it was a faithful recreation that managed to channel the look and feel of the vintage-original ref. 7042, though Longines subsequently added a date display to the model. In recent years, however, Longines begun to inject contemporary style into its remakes, including the Legend Diver, with last year’s 42 mm model in bronze with a striking, green fumé dial being a prime example. This year saw a continuation of the trend with a pair of new dials – in either blue or brown with a smoked finish – for the full-sized Legend Diver Watch in steel. Initial thoughts My first impression of the duo was simple: they are appealing in both design and colour. The design is clearly vintage; the remake stays true to the original. Its best feature is the inner rotating bezel adjusted via a second crown, which immediately sets it apart from typical dive watches that usually have a bulky external bezel. But important is the colour, which unlike the design it is a modern addition. Though fashionable today, gradient or dégradé dials are were actually a thing in the 1970s, though never found on the vintage original. The smoked dials lends the watch a youthful and contemporary feel. The blue is the most striking, though I personally prefer the warm and nostalgic brown dial that evokes a “tropical” dial. While t...
SJX Watches
Baltic Unveils the MR01 Micro-Rotor
A French brand that specialises in affordable, vintage-inspired watches, Baltic is back with another affordable, vintage-inspired watch. Evidently modelled on gentlemen’s watches of the 1930s, notably the Patek Philippe ref. 96 Calatrava, the MR01 is the brand’s first dress watch. Compact at just 36 mm in diameter, the MR01 is also thin at under 10 mm thanks to the micro-rotor automatic movement within, which is also the reason behind the unusually positioned seconds at seven o’clock. Initial thoughts Baltic has consistently released vintage-inspired watches that are the right combination of design, details, and affordability, which is exactly what the MR01 is all about. It has an aesthetic that instantly brings to mind the Patek Philippe ref. 96, accented with overtly vintage details like the applied numerals and stepped bezel. But its most novel aspect is arguably the movement, which has a micro-rotor, an uncommon feature in watches at this price point, for now. The fit and finish of Baltic’s offerings is good considering the price, which is an affordable US$600 or so for the MR01. That’s possible due to the fact that most of the watch is assembled using components made by Chinese suppliers. Chinese watchmakers themselves produce watches of comparable quality for less money, but most have yet to offer the design and eye for details that Baltic possesses. And that is why Baltic’s watches are value propositions that enjoy with commercial success. Effectively vi...
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS Régulateur Squelette
Having launched one of the best watches of 2020 with the spectacularly decorated Chronomètre FB 2RE, Ferdinand Berthoud (FB) returned to its very first model this year, remaking the FB 1 by bestowing upon it an open-worked movement accompanied by more contemporary styling. The result is the Ferdinand Berthoud FB RS – short for Régulateur Squelette, or “regulator skeleton”, which tidily sums up the time display format as well as the movement. Like the original FB 1, the new model has both a tourbillon as well as a chain and fusée. Notably, the FB RS is actually two models but equipped with the same movement, the FB-T.FC-RS. One is an octagonal case in sandblasted steel, the decidedly modern FB 1RS.6, while the other is the more conventional FB 2RS.2 in a round case of polished 18k rose gold. The FB-T.FC-RS While the two versions are quite different in terms of style, both share a similarly large diameter – resulting from the calibre within that boasts exemplary construction and finishing. The FB 1RS.6 in steel The FB 2RS.2 in gold Initial thoughts FB’s watches are best described as big and chunky – too big mostly – with equipped with exceptional movements. And the models with a tourbillon are especially big. Because of the their size, FB tourbillons tended to have a wide, empty expanse on the dial (which was dressed up with italic script in recent models). In contrast, the FB RS does away with all that empty real estate by uncovering the mechanics b...
SJX Watches
T3 Special Watches Introduces the Dague
Founded by a pair of Italian watch collectors, one of whom is vintage-watch dealer Andrea Marzari, T3 Special Watches is a young and unusual brand. T3 originated in the pair’s other hobby – both are motorcycle enthusiasts. They attempted to create a watch suited for long rides, but that ultimately proved fruitless. Instead, the two pivoted and conceived a vintage-inspired watch with an original design, and powered by a refinished Longines pocket watch movement from the early 2oth century, the Dague. The motivation behind the watch was simple – they wanted a watch that appealed to their taste in both design and mechanics, while being stylish and robust enough for everyday wear. After a year of riding their motorcycles with the prototypes, the duo debuted the first-generation Dague in 2018. Now the model has been refreshed with lacquer dials in eight vibrant colours ranging from turquoise to orange. Think of it as “Stella” dial meets a Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96, while powered by a vintage pocket watch movement. In lightweight titanium Initial thoughts The Dague is unusual for its mix of modern and vintage features. And it is not just vintage inspired – the movements are bona fide antiques, being based on Longines calibres from the 1920s and 1930s that were originally made for pocket watches. The use of vintage movements sets T3 apart from most micro-brands that rely on modern movements from makers such as ETA. That said, the use of refurbished vintage...
Quill & Pad
How The Wall Came Tumbling Down: Watches Made In Germany – Reprise
I clearly remember watching the history-altering events on television on November 9, 1989: the day that the Berlin Wall came tumbling down. Since then, watchmaking in Germany, just like the country as a whole, has undergone a lot of change, including the rebirth of Glashütte’s horological industry.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Rolex Explorer II Ref. 226570
Now updated with the in-house 3285 caliber.
Time+Tide
HANDS ON: The Baltic Aquascaphe Dual Crown draws from the past, but looks to the future
When Baltic released the first look at its Aquascaphe Dual-Crown back in May, the first impression was that this was a step forward for a brand whose superb designs had quickly pushed itself to the front of the crowded world of affordable vintage-inspired watches. The original Aquascaphe took its cues from mid-century divers, with gilt … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Baltic Aquascaphe Dual Crown draws from the past, but looks to the future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Citizen Series 8 Automatic
I was impressed by the Caliber 0200 that Citizen unveiled earlier in the year. A new design with an integrated bracelet and an automatic movement developed from scratch, the Caliber 0200 costs US$6,000 – more than the typical Citizen – it is unquestionably a value proposition. The level of fit and finish, especially on the case and bracelet, surpasses practically everything else at that price. Still, US$6,000 is not affordable for everyone. Citizen soon followed up with the Series 8, a line of watches similar to the Caliber 0200 in style but far more accessible price-wise, with the base model starting at US$1,200. Like the Caliber 0200, the Series 8 outperforms in its far lower price segment. The Series 8 is made up of three models – 830, 831, and 870 – but the standout is the 870, the watch pictured below. Citizen loaned me one for a few days, an experience that confirmed my initial impressions. Initial thoughts The Series 8 watches are all excellent at their respective price points, but the 870 impressed me the most – it’s the most expensive but paradoxically the best value. Admittedly, the 870 is yet another sports watch with an integrated bracelet. The familiarity of the concept makes it more difficult for a new entrant to succeed. One benchmark for success in this category is design – the watch has to look good while avoiding being derivative. And another is competitive pricing, since most fresh arrivals in the space can’t compete with the establishm...
Revolution
Introducing Gucci’s 100th Anniversary High Watchmaking Collection
Gucci celebrates their 100th anniversary by introducing four high caliber timepiece collections with a staggering 33 new models.
SJX Watches
Czapek Introduces the Antarctique Rattrapante
Czapek & Cie unveiled the Antarctique a year ago, its first foray into the popular category of luxury-sports watches. While the Antarctique had many of the elements synonymous with a luxury-sports watch, namely a steel case, blue dial, and integrated bracelet, it lacked what is arguably the signature element of Czapek’s design DNA – a pair of sub-dials at five and seven. Just unveiled at Geneva Watch Days, the followup to the original model combines a light touch of high horology with styling more faithful to the brand’s origins – the Antarctique Rattrapante, which is also the brand’s first split-seconds chronograph. Initial thoughts At a glance, the Antarctique Rattrapante is a noble effort in fusing the brand’s signature look with a modern, open-worked dial. Aesthetically, the design works well. The concept of having the entire split-seconds chronograph module visible on the dial creates an intricate view of the mechanics that would normally be hidden. And the mechanics are interesting, as the look is the result of substantial contortions to lower the sub-dials while ensuring they do not run into the gear train for the central hands. Notably, the repositioning was done with extra wheels – the chronograph mechanism actually has the registers in their traditional three and nine positions. At its core however, the chronograph remains a traditional, mono-pusher mechanism, albeit one that’s modular. The split-seconds mechanism does lack a key feature found ...
Hodinkee
This Lucky Man Buys Thousands of Watches For a Living
An interview with Crown & Caliber's Mark Hackman.
SJX Watches
Exhibition: Two Decades of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch in Singapore
Modelled on a navigation instrument of the second world war, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch has since become the archetypal modern-day aviator’s watch for the Schaffhausen watchmaker – and reputedly a favourite of Formula 1 champ Lewis Hamilton. As the Big Pilot approaches its 20th anniversary – the original ref. 5002 was introduced in 2002 – IWC is staging an exhibition dedicated to its oversized pilot’s watch in Singapore. The exhibition will showcase 31 Big Pilots from the IWC Museum, including the legendary and quirky Big Pilot’s Watch Markus Bühler “Turbine” ref. 5003 (stay tuned for a few highlights from the exhibition, including the Bühler). The exhibition is open to the public daily from September 9-12, but registration is required for entry. Update September 7, 2021: Registration is closed as the exhibition has reached the maximum capacity allowed by government guidelines, as a result walk-in visitors cannot be admitted. The watch that started it all, a 1940s Beobachtungsuhr, or “navigator’s watch”, made for the German Air Force Exhibition details The Big Pilot Exhibition Design Orchard 250 Orchard Road Singapore 238905 September 9-12, 2021 12 pm – 9 pm on weekdays, and 11 am – 9 pm weekends Entry is free, but registration is required on IWC.com. Update September 7, 2021: All pre-registration tickets have been taken up. Walk-ins will be accepted on a first-come- first-served basis, but subject to venue capacity. This was brought to y...
Quill & Pad
‘Time Bandit’: The Urwerk Opus 5 For Harry Winston That Almost Was – Reprise
The Opus 5 by Felix Baumgartner/Urwerk for Harry Winston is one of the best of this series of exceptional timepieces. But, as this drawing by Urwerk designer Martin Frei from June of 2003 shows, one of the original ideas behind Urwerk’s Opus 5 was a digital display in a model christened with the working title "Time Bandit." Check out this superb almost-was timepiece!
SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Superleggera Edition
Essentially a dressed-up version of the Monsieur in black ceramic, the Monsieur Superleggera Edition takes inspiration from the J12 Superleggera, a chronograph named after the ultra-light racing cars of the mid-20th century. Like the J12, the Monsieur Superleggera has an obvious automotive theme in its design, with its time display redesigned to resemble a speedometer. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of the Monsieur de Chanel in its earlier iterations, including the original model in “beige” gold and more recent version in ceramic and marble. They were all clean, stylish, and mostly monochromatic – and equipped with a sophisticated, attractive movement. The Superleggera Edition has the same movement, but the style is the opposite. It has a techno-automotive style that tries a bit too hard for my tastes. While the texturing and scales have a clear automotive inspiration, they don’t add much to the visual appeal of the watch. Ironically, the inspiration for the new Monsieur, the J12 Superleggera of 2005, actually looks more streamlined, despite being a chronograph. Still, the Monsieur Superleggera probably like a fancy bodykit for a car – it’ll divide opinions. Anyone who finds the plainer Monsieur boring would applaud this. Superleggera Italian for “super light”, Superleggera was an Italian coachbuilder that specialised in lightweight automobile bodies comprising a tubular steel frame cover in thin, aluminium-alloy panels. Perhaps the most famous automobile w...