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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

HANDS-ON: Does second thinnest mean second best? The new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Jan 22, 2023

HANDS-ON: Does second thinnest mean second best? The new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary

Watch brands can be known for boisterous claims or names for their novelties. Masterpiece, icon, ultimate or – in the case of this specific edition of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo – “ultra”. In the acclaimed anime My Hero Academia, “plus ultra” means going all-out, leaving it all on the battlefield, and pushing their abilities to be the … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Does second thinnest mean second best? The new Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra 10th Anniversary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Defy Watch Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Zenith Jan 21, 2023

Zenith Defy Watch Guide

Swiss watch manufacture Zenith traces its roots to 1865, when it was founded in the village of Le Locle by precocious 22-year-old watchmaker Georges Favre-Jacot. As one of the first watchmaking maisons to integrate all aspects of the watchmaking process under one roof, from case manufacturing to movement production to final casing and assembly, Zenith has long prided itself on its quest for timekeeping precision. The company has earned a record number of chronometry prizes over the years, and its most influential contribution to watchmaking history is its El Primero chronograph caliber, released in 1969. (Learn more about El Primero here.) In that same pivotal year, Zenith also released an avant-garde wristwatch series called Defy, whose bold, edgy design proved to be ahead of its time, and found its expression in the now-legendary Ref. A3642.  The Original Defy (1969) That watch was nicknamed the “coffre-fort,” a French term translating to “bank vault” or “safe,” a reference to its robustly angular, octagonal case, 14-sided bezel, and high-for-the-time water resistance of 300 meters, secured by its crown, caseback, and mineral crystal, all of which screwed securely into the case. Its “ladder-style” bracelet from legendary chainmaker Gay Frères also made the original reference notable. The Defy was positioned as Zenith’s toughest watch, featured in an advertisement in which six of the watches were strapped to the spokes of a motorcycle in a speed test a...

New: Cartier relaunches the Tank Française Deployant
Cartier relaunches Jan 21, 2023

New: Cartier relaunches the Tank Française

The Cartier Tank Française is a classic and timeless watch that exudes luxury and style. The design of the watch is sleek and elegant, with clean lines and a simple, yet sophisticated look. The case finishing is well-made, with attention to detail and high-quality materials used throughout. The bracelet is comfortable and the watch itself is weighty and substantial. Overall, the Cartier Tank Française is a luxurious and stylish watch.

VIDEO: The wide-ranging scope of the Franck Muller Curvex collection Time+Tide
Franck Muller Jan 20, 2023

VIDEO: The wide-ranging scope of the Franck Muller Curvex collection

Franck Muller is celebrating their 30th anniversary, and to celebrate, the brand has decided to update an icon. The Franck Muller Curvex, with its unique, domed sapphire crystal and arched case has been a signature since their inception not too long ago. Apart from a name change, the curved crystal now integrates into the bezel, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The wide-ranging scope of the Franck Muller Curvex collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

On-Wrist Reaction: Norqain Gets Wild, & Two Takes On The GMT Worn & Wound
Norqain Gets Wild & Two Jan 17, 2023

On-Wrist Reaction: Norqain Gets Wild, & Two Takes On The GMT

In this episode of On-Wrist Reaction, we take a look at three watches that bring three distinct flavors to the table, and all manage to make a compelling case in their own way. We start with something entirely new and slightly unexpected from a brand called Lorca, who have designed an elegant take on the GMT that would feel as at home in a cocktail bar as it would in the field. Next is a new GMT from Nodus, offering plenty of style and function for the money, it’s the Sector GMT. Finally, we have the Norqain Wild One, featuring Norqain’s new material, Norteq. We have a deeper look at all three watches coming soon, but until then you can see our initial reactions in the video below. You can see Zach Kazan’s introduction of the Norqain Wild One, including thoughts from Jean-Claude Biver, live from Switzerland right here. If you have any questions or thoughts on these watches that you’d like to see addressed in our reviews, be sure to let us know in the comments. Furthermore, if you have a watch or a piece of gear you’d like to see us react to, please reach out to us at info@wornandwound.com. The post On-Wrist Reaction: Norqain Gets Wild, & Two Takes On The GMT appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hermès Debuts a Luxe Take on the H08 Sports Watch SJX Watches
Hermes would remove Jan 17, 2023

Hermès Debuts a Luxe Take on the H08 Sports Watch

Having just introduced the cushion-shaped H08 sports watch last year, Hermès is now giving it a new look with a case in rose gold, ceramic, and DLC-treated titanium. While the design is identical to the earlier versions, the new H08 gains a bold and luxurious look – along with a steeper price tag – with the new mix of case materials. Initial thoughts The mix of materials on the new H08 are a perfect complement to the clean design and simple lines of the watch. Though certainly a bit more flashy than the muted originals, the new H08 is still an understated watch. I appreciate the use of ceramic and DLC-coated titanium as it creates contrast while dialling down the bling factor. The result is a watch that manages to look different from other sports watches, even though the black-and-rose-gold formula is a familiar one. But as with the original, I wish Hermes would remove the date between four and five o’clock. Given its functional design and focus on geometric shapes, I feel the H08 should be about an unconditional focus on the time. Priced at US$17,000, the new H08 costs almost double the model in titanium. That’s about the going rate for upgrading from titanium to a precious metal case, but it is still a chunk of change. While the original was fair value given its cost-to-performance ratio, this one is a little tougher to justify, though it is arguably far more attractive. Two-tone cushion The new H08 is actually comprised of three different materials: the bezel a...

New: Seiko 62MAS modern interpretation Seiko SLA065 Deployant
Seiko 62MAS modern interpretation Seiko Jan 14, 2023

New: Seiko 62MAS modern interpretation Seiko SLA065

The SLA065 is comfortable on the wrist and fits well despite its relatively tall 13.1mm thickness. It is now issued in a larger 41mm case instead of the 39mm case in the SLA017 reissue. The watch is water resistant to 200 meters, making it suitable for everyday wear. Overall, the Seiko Prospex SLA065 is a great choice for anyone looking for a fun daily beater. The combination of high-quality case finish and craftsmanship, along with the mechanical movement, make the new 62MAS reissue a standout choice. The watch is limited to 1300 pieces.

Why the Grand Seiko “Snowflake” captivated the watch world Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Snowflake” captivated Jan 12, 2023

Why the Grand Seiko “Snowflake” captivated the watch world

What’s cooler than being cool? Well, if you’re Outkast, the answer is “ice cold!” (alright, alright, alright), but if you’re a watch collector, there’s a good chance the answer is the Grand Seiko ‘Snowflake’. When first introduced, watch fans were dazzled by the ultra-fine finishing of the titanium case, wowed by the technological prowess of … ContinuedThe post Why the Grand Seiko “Snowflake” captivated the watch world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay Finds: Electric Watches, Fat Lugs, & Vintage Formal Wear Worn & Wound
Bulova Ambassador Here’s Jan 12, 2023

eBay Finds: Electric Watches, Fat Lugs, & Vintage Formal Wear

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Bulova Ambassador Here’s a sweet vintage Bulova Ambassador, complete box and original strap. The steel case is 35mm wide and in great shape, with nice slim lugs and clear deeply engraved ‘Ballerina’ caseback logo. Gorgeous silver dial with simple steel stick markers and hands and a date window at 3 o’clock. The original acrylic crystal looks perfect and has the correct internal date magnifier window. This is front-loading case so no surprise that there is no photo of the movement. This beauty comes with the original Bulova strap, and maybe even the original Bulova buckle, although there is no photo of it and the seller doesn’t say. Boxes are included which is nice, although the seller states the inner box is damaged. View auction here. Eterna-Matic Centenaire This vintage Eterna-Matic Centenaire is one you don’t see too often, which is a shame as it’s a great looking watch. That said, here’s your chance at one! The 35mm steel case is simple with slim lugs like the Bulova above, with the biggest difference being the crown is neatly recessed into the case giving is a streamlined look. The dial is white with killer applied steel faceted arrow markers and the class...

LVMH Watch Week: The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings intrigue with a subtle pop Time+Tide
Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings Jan 12, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings intrigue with a subtle pop

LVMH Watch Week is back, and Zenith is bringing out the big guns to kick off 2023. And one of the biggest and boldest has to be the new limited-to-50 Defy Extreme Glacier chrono, a technological tour-de-force in a striking package that incorporates a unique material. The 45mm titanium case still retains the angular, architectural … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: The Zenith Defy Extreme Glacier brings intrigue with a subtle pop appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Hublot Classic Fusion Original SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Jan 12, 2023

Hands-On: Hublot Classic Fusion Original

One of the “it” watches of the 1980s, Hublot’s porthole-inspired watch on a rubber strap has been revived. Forty-two years since the brand made its debut with the iconoclastic hublot watch – it was the first watch to combine a gold case and rubber strap – the brand is paying tribute to its founder Carlo Crocco with a new range modelled on the original design. Taking after the original in look and feel, the Classic Fusion Original collection comprises three sizes, each available in three material configurations. Initial thoughts Almost minimalist in its design, the Classic Fusion Original is simpler and sleeker than the typical Hublot. It is relatively compact and thin in all three sizes – the largest model is 10 mm high – giving it a surprisingly elegant profile on the wrist. The no-frills design is strongly appealing, except for the date window, which isn’t too prominent but still unnecessary. And I would have gone even further in the minimalist direction by doing away with the seconds hand. That said, both the date and seconds are part of the original 1980 design. Despite the clean styling, the watch is instantly recognisable as a Hublot. In fact, the Classic Fusion Original is arguably more distinctively Hublot than the some of the brand’s other models, which occasionally resemble offerings from Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. Starting at around US$8,000 in titanium with an automatic movement (the smallest, 33 mm versions are all quartz), the Cl...

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline 36 mm SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jan 12, 2023

Zenith Introduces the Defy Skyline 36 mm

In 1971, Zenith introduced the Defy, a steel sports watch with an octagonal case and tetradecagonal bezel that was the inspiration for the Defy Skyline, a simple three-hander in steel with an integrated bracelet. Today, the brand has updated the Skyline with a smaller case of 36 mm and three new dial colours. While its design is nearly identical to its larger sibling, the reduced size of the new Skyline makes it more wearable. Initial thoughts The highlight of the Defy Skyline is its compact, 36 mm size. For someone like me who leans towards classic proportions and prefers smaller watches, the size is a plus while also making it more wearable. Along with the size, the clean, simple design is also versatile enough for both genders. And the option of a diamond-set model and bright dial colours certainly elevate its appeal for a wider audience. At US$8,500 for the standard model and 50% more for the diamond-set variant, it is priced competitively against comparable sports watches. And while it might not have all the bells and whistles of some of Zenith’s signature chronograph offerings, it’s easy to like for someone looking for a straightforward sports watch with an in-house movement. More colours and a compact size While the original Defy Skyline was 41 mm, the new version is considerably smaller. In spite of its reduced size, the case still retains the distinctive octagonal form with a brushed finish and matching bracelet. But it is equipped with a strap-change mechan...

LVMH Watch Week: Hublot revitalises a classic and introduces some bold evolutions Time+Tide
Hublot revitalises Jan 12, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: Hublot revitalises a classic and introduces some bold evolutions

Hublot is kicking off 2023 with a big bang, debuting a brightly hued tourbillon in an exotic new material. An OG classic makes its return, now in new case materials and a wide range of size choices. A bold new chronograph looks and does good, created to benefit endangered wildlife. LVMH Watch Week is upon … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: Hublot revitalises a classic and introduces some bold evolutions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LVMH Watch Week: TAG Heuer unleashes a flurry of releases Time+Tide
TAG Heuer unleashes Jan 11, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: TAG Heuer unleashes a flurry of releases

TAG Heuer gives us another helping of the Monza, now in a carbon case and bold colours. New Sport, Golf and Titanium Connected watches mark the brand’s continued evolution of their smart watch collection. The Aquaracer Solargraph line continues, now with a Grade 2 Titanium bead-blasted case. The Carrera celebrates its 60th with a 600-piece, … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: TAG Heuer unleashes a flurry of releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LVMH Watch Week: Bulgari dazzles with their new “Time is a Jewel” collection Time+Tide
Bulgari dazzles Jan 11, 2023

LVMH Watch Week: Bulgari dazzles with their new “Time is a Jewel” collection

The Divas’ Dream and Allegra have been given new colour schemes. The Serpenti Seduttori is now available with a black lacquer dial. The Serpenti Tubogas Infinity now has flowing diamonds between the case and the bracelet LVMH Watch Week is bringing in the new year in fine form. For this particular series, instead of breaking … ContinuedThe post LVMH Watch Week: Bulgari dazzles with their new “Time is a Jewel” collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 “Expanding Hands” SJX Watches
Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 Jan 11, 2023

Up Close: Breguet Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 “Expanding Hands”

Even though Breguet is not a name that instantly comes to mind when it comes to ladies’ watches, the brand makes one of the most distinctive female watches on the market today. Late last year Breguet debuted perhaps its most ladies watch in some time: the Reine de Naples 9835 and 9838 that both possess a quirky yet graceful complication inspired by “expanding hands” pocket watches from the 18th century. Immediately recognisable thanks to its distinctive egg-shaped case, the Reine de Naples was inspired by similarly-ovoid bracelet watch delivered in 1812 to Caroline Bonaparte, Queen of Naples and the younger sister of Napoleon. Reine de Naples – literally “Queen of Naples” – remains the brand’s signature watch for ladies, though the line-up has grown to encompass many iterations over the years. Admittedly, the models are numerous enough that few leave a lasting impression, but the “expanding hands” allow the new duo to easily stand out. Initial thoughts I was impressed when I first laid eyes on the new Reine de Naples. Neither is a typical ladies’ timepieces that lazily relies only on a bejewelled case to stand out. Both models have a striking, elegant aesthetic that’s slightly more modern than expected from Breguet but still possessed of enough intricate detail. Though seemingly simple at the glance, the new Reine de Naples has a clever and unusual hour display with “expanding hands”. The simplicity of the time display combined with the n...

New: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1 Deployant
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Jan 7, 2023

New: Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Act 1

Overall, we find this to be an interesting watch with a legendary history, re-issued in a package which is faithful to the original, and yet modern and up to date. The aesthetics remain excellent, with the principles of a great dive watch as set out by Blancpain since the early 1950s being well respected. The most unique part of this release is the 42 mm watch case. This is an exclusive diameter, as no contemporary Fifty Fathoms has ever yet been offered in this size. Regular models measure 45 mm, while the usual limited-edition Fifty Fathoms has a 40 mm case.

Blancpain Introduces Fifty Fathoms “70th Anniversary Act 1” SJX Watches
Blancpain Introduces Fifty Fathoms “70th Jan 4, 2023

Blancpain Introduces Fifty Fathoms “70th Anniversary Act 1”

Twenty twenty-three marks the 70th anniversary of Blancpain’s landmark dive watch, the Fifty Fathoms. Introduced in 1953, the diver was revived in 2003. Kicking off the commemorative editions is the Fifty Fathoms “70th Anniversary Act 1”, the first instalment in a year’s worth of anniversary models. Like the current model, the “Act 1” is inspired by the vintage model, but sports dimensions patterned after the original from seven decades ago, with a reduced case diameter of just over 42 mm. Initial thoughts  The familiar form of the modern dive watch is due in part to the Fifty Fathoms – whether that or the Rolex Submariner was launched first is an endless debate – so it is unsurprising that Blancpain’s current catalogue includes a vast array of Fifty Fathoms-inspired timepieces. Thankfully, Blancpain has done something to cater to watch enthusiasts with the anniversary model that has a smaller diameter, perhaps in response to criticism that the closest equivalent in the line-up is 45 mm wide (Blancpain does offer dive watches with smaller cases, but they are either limited editions or the Bathyscaphe). Even though the anniversary watch is broadly similar to the standard Fifty Fathoms in terms of design, it has been refined and arguably improved, especially on the dial. Blancpain skipped the easy route of copying the earlier model and scaling it down. Instead the designers commendably captured the spirit of the original with the vintage typography un...

Seiko Introduces the Presage 110th Anniversary SPB359 SJX Watches
Seiko Introduces Dec 13, 2022

Seiko Introduces the Presage 110th Anniversary SPB359

Seiko made history when it produced the first-ever made-in-Japan wristwatch in 1913. Known as the Laurel, the 1913 wristwatch was typical of the era when pocket watches were evolving into wristwatches. To mark the 110th anniversary of its first wristwatch, Seiko debuts the Presage Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary ref. SPB359. Featuring a fired enamel dial, the Presage 110th Anniversary is modelled on the 1913 original, right down to the case reminiscent of a pocket watch. Initial thoughts Seiko regularly rolls out Presage limited editions with dials ranging from porcelain to Japanese lacquer, but all share the same case style despite the diversity in dials. In contrast, the Presage 110th Anniversary is refreshingly different and unique within the Presage line-up. Not only is the case executed in the style of an early 20th century watch, it is also more compact than the typical Presage, measuring at 37.5 mm in diameter instead of the usual 40.5 mm. That said, the new Presage is still fairly thick at over 12 mm high as a consequence of the movement inside. Both the case design and dimensions give it a distinctly different look and feel from past Presage models. This means the anniversary edition has appeal even for someone who already owns a past Presage model. And as expected for Seiko, the Presage 110th Anniversary is solid value with a retail price of about US$2,000. The 1913 Laurel in the Seiko Museum Retro styling Entirely polished and stainless steel, the case of t...

Magon Fórsa Titanium Automatic Column Wheel Chronograph By Stephen McGonigle: Incredible Engineering And Unparalleled Quality For The Price – Reprise Quill & Pad
Dec 10, 2022

Magon Fórsa Titanium Automatic Column Wheel Chronograph By Stephen McGonigle: Incredible Engineering And Unparalleled Quality For The Price – Reprise

Stephen McGonigle, owner and co-founder of McGonigle watches, has been regularly asked by friends and watch aficionados over the years to make something that they could afford – or at least aspire to. Making a relatively affordable watch that he could be proud of was a challenge, but one McGonigle has met with the first watch from his new Magon brand: the Fórsa Titanium, an automatic column wheel chronograph in a distinctive tonneau-shaped case.

Phillips adds a sector touch to their limited-edition Bulgari Octo Finissimo Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dec 10, 2022

Phillips adds a sector touch to their limited-edition Bulgari Octo Finissimo

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo is known first and foremost for its baroque-sculptural case design. But another defining feature across the Finissimo Automatic line is the clean dial that crops up through the collection. These dials are typically not very busy, either brushed, sun-ray lacquered, or matte sandblasted, with simply the hour indices and an asymmetrically … ContinuedThe post Phillips adds a sector touch to their limited-edition Bulgari Octo Finissimo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.