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Fratello
Hey there, and welcome to this week’s episode of Fratello Talks. What are some of the most underrated watch brands out there? That’s the question that Nacho, RJ, and Daan have chosen for today’s discussion. And though there are indeed many brands that may not receive the praise and recognition they deserve, the guys have […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Most Underrated Watch Brands to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Best known for its TV-shaped watch, Hautlence marks its 20th anniversary this year with something radically different, but also entirely apt: the Retrovision ’47. Cleverly inspired by a 1940s radio, the watch has a titanium case painted in a bright green that contains a self-winding movement with a flying tourbillon. Though it’s powered by an existing movement (borrowed from Moser), the Retrovision ’47 is the brand’s first all-new model in a long time. Whether it marks a new direction for the brand is unknown, but it definitely makes a statement. Initial thoughts The Retrovision ’47 is a weird and interesting watch that is a surprisingly creative take on the vintage-inspired timepiece. Even though it is outlandish, the Retrovision ’47 is coherent. The watch achieves what it sets out to do: instantly evokes a vintage radio. It’s paradoxical in several ways: not exceptionally large, but it stands out because of its shape and colour. And at a distance, the Retrovision ’47 resembles a plastic toy, but up close the fit and finish make it clear that this is a high-end watch. I doubt I would wear one, but Hautlence should be commended for doing something bold and different. Beyond the watch itself, however, Hautlence still needs work. Weird and wonderful as it is, the Retrovision ’47 doesn’t explain where Hautlence is going, or even what the brand is really all about now. Even though the watch has a quirky, intrinsic appeal, the brand behind it still needs cla...
SJX Watches
Having been a fait accompli since the summer, LVMH is now a key sponsor of Formula 1. Starting in 2025, the 10-year sponsorship deal will see the French luxury group become a top-level sponsor of F1. Several LVMH brands will be part of the sponsorship, including Louis Vuitton, TAG Heuer, and its drinks division Moët Hennessy that owns champagne makers like Moët & Chandon. Coming just after Louis Vuitton’s high-profile presence at the 2024 Paris Olympics, the F1 sponsorship deepens the group’s involvement in sports and popular culture. Spearheaded by Frederic Arnault, the head of LVMH Watches, the deal is worth about €100 million annually according to an LVMH insider. “For many years, several of our Maisons have also chosen to invest in Formula 1…”, said Mr Arnault, “We want to further grow this experiential dimension that Formula 1 provides all over the world.” From left to right: Stefano Domenicali, President & CEO of Formula 1; Greg Maffei, President & CEO, Liberty Media; Bernard Arnault, Chairman & CEO, LVMH Group; and Frédéric Arnault, CEO, LVMH Watches LVMH takes the place of Rolex as a “Global Partner” of Formula 1, the highest-level of sponsorship, putting the group alongside Amazon and Aramco. The deal was sealed as Formula 1’s owner, American entertainment giant Liberty Media, has successfully grown F1 beyond its traditional audience with new race locations like Las Vegas, a hit Netflix reality series, and an upcoming movie starring Brad...
Time+Tide
Helping raise money for charity, the one millionth Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch to be made is heading to auction.The post The one millionth MoonSwatch is heading to auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Until the introduction of the Retrovision ’47 with its distinctive green Bakelite, radio-like case, black and blue had been the favourite colours of the re-launched Hautlence, part of the MELB Luxe Group, which also owns H. Moser & Cie yet remains an independent brand. In 2023, Hautlence presented the Sphere Series 1, featuring its emblematic […]
Worn & Wound
With the new school year in full swing, I’ve been reminded by my nephews and nieces just how much fun buying school supplies can be. I’m sure there is a direct correlation between my love of buying random notebooks before the school year began and my current job in the luxury pen industry (even though the line is a bit jagged, by way of dropping out of law school, working as a timeshare salesman, and a food blogger for a few years). But the collateral damage of my occupation has meant that I have a bit more of a discerning – read: judgmental – eye about stationery. Sure, I’m not going to tell my seven-year-old nephew that his composition notebook is the worst type of paper for fountain pens and is prone to tearing and bleeding…but I am thinking it. You see, it’s hard to appreciate these annual, almost Proustian moments this time of year now that I’ve been exposed to higher quality journals over the past few years. If there is anyone to blame, it would be Smythson for this chip I have on my shoulder. The British company, who has been making luxury stationery since 1887, is by all accounts a brand that puts craftsmanship, heritage, and aesthetics into every product – and once you’ve had the best, it’s hard to go back. History of Smythson With London heritage evident in nearly every aspect of Smythson – from their branding to products to cheeky little sayings on notebooks – it’s evident how steeped the brand has been in British culture since its ...
Time+Tide
The LVMH Group has signed a 10-year global partnership deal with the Formula 1 racing series starting tin 2025. The post LVMH signs a 10-year partnership with Formula 1 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Every once in a while, you see a watch that raises more questions than it can answer. The Nomos Tangente 2date is such a watch. The biggest question is, “Why?” Since an answer isn’t immediately at hand, more and more questions arise. Is this a watch that can keep track of two different dates? Is […] Visit Just When You Thought The Heated Date Debate Couldn’t Get Any Hotter, The Nomos Tangente 2date Shows Up to read the full article.
Monochrome
The current watch market is polarized and most often highlighted by the major and mainstream brands on one hand, and let’s say, all the rest on the other hand. Among the latter, on the fringes of the groups and a few independent and historical brands, a swarm of new brands has emerged in recent years […]
Time+Tide
Alpina's sportiest sports watch's imposing aesthetic is made more accessible with a slightly smaller case diameter.The post Alpina’s beefy Alpiner Extreme becomes more wearable with new 39mm options appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Let’s start with some perspective: fewer than 700 human beings have ever been to space. Of them, only 24 went to the Moon. And of those 24, only 12 set foot on its rocky surface. Edgar Mitchell was number six. Most wore NASA-issued Speedmasters, which are property of the US government and will not be […] Visit Apollo Astronaut Edgar Mitchell’s Space-Flown Rolex GMT-Master Comes Up For Auction to read the full article.
SJX Watches
The Seiko Presage Craftsmanship Series Porter Classic Collaboration SPB449 is result of a collaboration with Japanese fashion label Porter Classic. It’s modelled on the Laurel, the 1913 Seiko timepiece that was the first wristwatch made in Japan, giving the SPB449 a look typical of early-20th century timepieces that were essentially pocket watches converted into wristwatches. Porter Classic was founded by a member of the family that founded Porter Yoshida, the cult luggage brand known for its functional and pricey nylon bags. The brand offers clothing and accessories with a vintage feel, including jackets that accommodate pocket watches. Its take on the Presage is a modest tweak on the original: a black enamel dial made by the workshop of Mitsuru Yokosawa, the longtime supplier of enamel dials for the Presage. Initial thoughts Collaborations between watch brands and lifestyle labels are now common, so the SPB449 isn’t a surprise, especially since it’s between two uniquely Japanese brands. Still, Seiko rarely does collaborations with the Presage Craftsmanship series. The aesthetic, however, is not new as this similar to earlier Presage limited editions, namely the SPB359 of 2022 and last year’s SPB441, that were similarly inspired by the Laurel. While the difference between this and the earlier Laurel edition is basically a change of dial colour, the SPB449 stands out thanks to the high-contrast, black enamel dial. It’s striking even though the case is undersized ...
Monochrome
The brainchild of Japanese independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka (also behind the return of Takano), Kurono Tokyo was defined as his vision of a more accessible take on his design language, with watches merging traditional Japanese cues and classic vintage flair. Recent introductions of the brand focused on compact, retro-inspired watches with a bit less of […]
Quill & Pad
The red carpet prize giving for the 2024 GPHG) will take place in Geneva on Wednesday the 13 November 2024. There are 16 categories with six finalists in each category making a total of 96 watches in the final round.
Worn & Wound
Lorca, founded just about two years ago by New York City based watch enthusiast and recording artist Jesse Marchant, has unveiled their second watch. The new watch, the appropriately named Model No.2, is a follow up to the GMT we looked at in the early months of 2023, and subsequently developed a cult-like following among many discerning vintage watch aficionados. Lorca taps into something that is tough to put your finger on, but is nevertheless kind of obvious when you have one in hand. They could be vintage watches if you didn’t know any better – they are sized to feel like true mid century timepieces. But at the same time, they could really only be born out of the experiences of a present day collector and enthusiast, someone who cares about the little details enough to put them front and center on his idiosyncratic designs. The Model No.2 is a chronograph that is immediately linked thematically with the Model No.1 GMT thanks to its vintage inspired size (it measures 37mm) and ornate details. It’s a sports watch, for sure, but it veers strongly toward the elegant end of the spectrum. This does not feel like a “tool watch” to me at all, in spite of its rather robust properties that are, frankly, fairly standard these days with any modern watch, no matter the style. The design cue that will likely stand out most prominently to those who encounter the Model No.2 is the bezel, which has a guilloche pattern consisting of very fine straight lines engraved in som...
Monochrome
If you’ve been following Nomos for a while, you certainly know that despite a certain German rigour and classic minimalistic inspiration (so-called Bauhaus), the Glashütte-based brand doesn’t like to do things too seriously – at least, design-wise. Small touches of colour, original shapes and a youthful approach are key elements of the brand’s design language. […]
Worn & Wound
There is something incredibly satisfying about good design. Sure, this may seem like a basic statement; but, in the world we live in today, maybe it isn’t. So much of the watch market now relies on a steady IV drip of collaborations, bright colors, and sometimes novelty capabilities that classic design can feel like a sorbet course after a particularly heavy meal. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute line-up is that for me. Longtime readers may know that I’m quite fond of the classic Cartier Tank, and it wouldn’t be a stretch of the imagination to say the Reverso is cut from the same cloth. First created in the 1930’s as a watch that could withstand being beaten up during polo matches (can you think of a more 1% sentence?), the Reverso has now become a cult classic of sorts for, of course, its beauty – but also the fun tactility of the reversible case. While there have been many iterations of the Reverso collection, the latest in their Tribute line really show the sophistication and engineering know-how from the brand. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute collection features three new references to ogle: the Reverso Tribute Monoface, Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon (in steel), and the Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds (in pink gold). With three personalities to introduce you to, I’ll go through each separately. The first thing to notice about the Reverso Tribute Monoface is its size. Designed to be more in-line with the original Reverso from 1931, coming...
Time+Tide
While it wasn't the first watch to reach the Moon, the GMT-Master that is up for sale beat all other Rolex watches up there. The post The first Rolex worn on the Moon is up for auction appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Girard-Perregaux releases a Laureato in support of the ELA, a charity dedicated to fighting leukodystrophies in children.
Monochrome
Unquestionably one of the best-selling models at Oris, the Divers Sixty-Five resurfaced after a period of dormancy in 2015 with its vintage appeal and ancestor’s traits practically intact. A year later, Oris revisited its Divers Sixty-Five in a limited edition with a larger 42mm diameter and a bronze case dedicated to Carl Brashear with a […]
Fratello
What could you do to make a time-only watch distinctive? How about letting the case rotate up to 90° to adjust the dial to the ideal position when driving? You don’t even have to be a petrolhead to appreciate Dutch independent watchmaker Laurens de Rijke and his latest collaboration with Guy Allen. Designs make watches […] Visit Hands-On With The De Rijke & Co. Guy Allen “Land” From The Amalfi Series to read the full article.
Time+Tide
With subtle nods to padel with its grid dial texture, the new DS-7 Chrono Auto from Certina is a great all-around entry-level chronograph.The post The Certina DS-7 Chrono gets an automatic movement and a padel inspired dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Released in 2021, the Presage Style60’s was positioned as Seiko‘s vision of a casual, all-rounder-oriented and vintage-inspired watch. Far from the classism of the Craftsmanship Series or the funky colours of the Cocktail models, this collection was loosely based on the 1964 Crown watch, Japan’s first wrist chronograph – hence the sporty touch of this […]
Fratello
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss the increasing number of claims about movement production and wonder whether it all truly matters. “In-house,” “in-house-designed,” and “third-party” are only some explanations we hear about movements and their origin. It’s gotten a bit nutty! For our listeners, there’s horology content interspersed initially, […] Visit Fratello On Air: Is In-House In The Outhouse? to read the full article.
Fratello
Here in the Netherlands, it seems the cusp of winter is upon us. Last week, we were still enjoying the summer weather in T-shirts and shorts. Right now, though, I’m wearing jeans, a shirt, and a merino wool vest, and I’m still cold. We simply skipped the fall season completely and went from 25 degrees […] Visit Introducing: The Ice-Blue Seiko Presage Style60’s European Limited Edition SRPL19 to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
The Romain Gauthier Prestige HM is a rare instance of a creator finding his voice on the first attempt. Even through the lens of 17 years of the brand’s evolution, the Prestige HM remains immediately recognizable as a product of the engineer-turned-entrepreneur whose name it bears.
SJX Watches
A dormant name recently revived, Edouard Koehn was once famous for its high-quality pocket watches, usually signed “Ed. Koehn”, one of which inspired the Legacy Rattrapante Split-Seconds Chronograph. Powered by an automatic calibre made by Concepto, the Legacy Rattrapante has a fired enamel dial inside a stainless steel case. Initial thoughts Though it was resurrected only a short while ago, Edouard Koehn has put out a variety of watches, ranging from chunky sports watches to world-timers. The Legacy Rattrapante is its most classical design to date. The styling essentially replicates a vintage pocket watch, so it’s not imaginative, but the functional simplicity is appealing. But because the watch employs a Concepto calibre, it is thick at 14.6 mm high, which is at odds with the vintage-inspired design. And the Legacy Rattrapante is also pricey at almost CHF16,000, or about US$19,000. Though the fired enamel dial is an expensive bonus, it still costs double the Habring² Doppel, which has a more sophisticated movement for almost half the price. Pocket watch style Born in Germany, Edouard Koehn (1839-1908) was a watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe before establishing his own brand in Geneva that produced watches signed “Ed. Koehn” as well as under the brand name, H.R. Ekegren, a Danish brand he acquired. Koehn’s son, also named Edouard, inherited the firm, which went bust during the Great Depression. Several years ago, the Edouard Koehn trademark was acquir...
Time+Tide
Pulling from old Soviet designs and astrological complications the new collaboration between Lorier and Worn & Wound is a great new piece.The post The Lorier x Worn & Wound Astra Stargazer for the astronomically attuned appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
In Bovet’s cosmos of extravagant complications, dramatic staging and lavish decorative flourishes, the new Dimier Récital 15 looks positively demure. Unlike earlier editions produced by Bovet since its release in 2014, the mechanisms powering the jumping hours, retrograde minutes and double-second complications are not revealed on the dial, which is now interpreted in a lovely […]
Worn & Wound
When I think of Louis Erard, two things tend to spring to mind: regulators and collaborations. As a brand, they have mastered each of these, and they have contributed to some of my favorite releases in recent years (the brand’s whimsical collaborations with Alain Silberstein spring to mind as a high watermark). The consequence of this success is it can be easy to ignore the other things Louis Erard does well. With the new Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph, the brand is trying to remind us. When compared with mother-of-pearl dialed regulators, this latest trio of limited edition sports watches - each of which will be available in a “99-piece limited edition numbered in multiples of 3” - is a more down-the-middle release than we’re used to seeing from Louis Erard. But as one might expect from the brand, a closer look will reveal Louis Erard’s signature touch. On its surface, the 2300 Sport Chronograph is a fairly by-the-number Valjoux 7750-powered sports chronograph, with a large case (44mm across, 52.4mm lug-to-lug, and 15mm thick in well-finished Grade 5 Titanium) reminiscent of straight-lug Speedies and Carreras, a black ceramic bezel, and the very familiar 6-9-12 layout with day and date that most often accompanies the iconic movement. But the signature Louis Erard touch is there and, as with so many of their other watches, the magic here comes with the dial. When you take a moment to step back and think about it, chronograph dials - with their multiple ...
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