Hodinkee
Happenings: François Perez To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The Technical Director and Movement Constructor at Biver will discuss the processes that transform raw materials into exceptional mechanical timepieces.
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Hodinkee
The Technical Director and Movement Constructor at Biver will discuss the processes that transform raw materials into exceptional mechanical timepieces.
Fratello
With our long-lasting Thursday vintage column rebranded, it would be criminal not to look back closely at my 2024 watch-collecting moves. Here are some highlights: my obsession with vintage Gallet chronographs goes on (with room for impulse purchases still there), and I invested more in research, lost motivation to share on social media, and struggled […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Reflects On His Watch-Collecting Decisions Of 2024 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Fears Watch Company, initially founded in 1846 in Bristol (UK), thrived as a family-run business for over a century before closing its doors in 1976. In 2016, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill, the great-great-great-grandson of its original founder, revived the brand, bringing new life to this historic name. Nicholas happens to be an early supporter and friend of […]
SJX Watches
A monochromatic reinterpretation of Ulysse Nardin’s skeleton watch with a prominent “X”, the Blast “Amoureuxpeintre” is a collaboration with Vsevolod “Sever” Cherepanov, a Kyrgyz streetwear designer also known as Amoureuxpeintre who was one of the first to use augmented reality prints on fabric. Restrained and minimalist, the new Blast has a 42 mm sandblasted titanium case and an unusual frosted sapphire dial that partially hides the skeletonised “X” movement, leaving the calibre only faintly visible. According to Ulysse Nardin, the artist drew inspiration for the design from frosted glass panels found in offices. Initial thoughts Renowned for pioneering silicon components in mechanical watchmaking with its groundbreaking Freak, Ulysse Nardin has made some odd design choices in recent years, including the decision to make the letter “X” a centrepiece of its designs. The collaboration with Amoureuxpeintre hides the “X” and transforms the Blast case into something low-key with its all-black finish, and the result is a surprisingly different, and appealing watch. Styling aside, the latest Blast is typical Ulysse Nardin in terms of mechanics, which is to say accomplished. Although the Blast collection does not share the same status or historical significance of the Freak, it still demonstrates Ulysse Nardin’s commitment to contemporary horology with a high-spec, in-house movement that has all of its regulator – hairspring, balance, escape, and pal...
Quill & Pad
Everyday wines are very much a budget/quality/preference equation and you should always ensure you have sufficient of these available. Pointy end wines are those for special occasions and family events. These are the wines you want to be good for your cellar or wine fridge.
Worn & Wound
It’s long been a goal of the Worn & Wound team to use our platform to support charitable causes. Despite making philanthropic contributions from time to time over the years, we’ve never really used the full might of our platform to make an impact. And so I am very excited to share with the Worn & Wound community our partnership to support the 2025 Ride to Conquer Cancer. Before we get to the details…a little backstory. In 2023, at the NYC Windup Watch Fair, I got to chatting with friend, designer, and fellow watch-nerd, Matt Smith-Johnson. Matt’s been coming to Windup for as long as I can remember to support projects he’s worked on (like this, this, and this) or just basking in the watch tsunami that is the Fair. In the course of catching each other up on our lives, my sister’s then-recent breast cancer diagnosis came up (she’s doing great, btw!), which prompted Matt to share something I found really incredible. For nearly a decade, Matt has taken part in the Ride to Conquer Cancer, a two-day, 200+ kilometer cycling event through Southern Ontario, Canada, which raises funds for the Princess Margaret Cancer Centre-one of the world’s leading cancer research institutions. Needless to say, I was inspired by his commitment to the cause. The Ride to Conquer Cancer, launched in 2008, has raised over $300 million for cancer research and care, including $20.6 million in 2024 alone. Each year, more than 5,000 participants come together to support advancements in tr...
Worn & Wound
In this video, we take a closer look at the dressed up Italian diver from Venezianico, the Nereide 42 Stone Dial Avventurina. Is this piece all show and no substance or does it actually stack up again the competition at its sub-$1,000 price point? In this video, we take a closer look at the dressed up Italian diver from Venezianico, the Nereide 42 Stone Dial Avventurina. Is this piece all show and no substance or does it actually stack up again the competition at its sub-$1,000 price point? The post A Eye Catching Stone Dial Dive Watch For Under $1,000 – Venezianico Nereide Review appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Let’s get up close and personal… We have already explored the revamped IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 in detail when it was launched in 2023, the same year that the Schaffhausen-based brand decided to give this long-lasting collection its 1976 Genta-inspired design back. More recently, what is now a strong contender in the luxury sports watch […]
Hodinkee
The famed menswear designer joins Mark and Ben to discuss brand building, collaborations, and stepping outside one's comfort zone.
Worn & Wound
Edward East was one of the most successful and distinguished London clockmakers of the 1600s. He was a shrewd businessman and brilliantly talented artisan who earned the high regard of the rich and famous of society. East made his name against the backdrop of one of the most turbulent times in British history. Early Life in the City of London Edward East was born on the 22nd of August 1602 in Southill, Bedfordshire. He was well-educated, and began his training in London, with the guild associated with gold and silversmithing known as the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths. Edward’s apprenticeship began in May 1617 under the Master Robert Podmore. In March 1618, his apprenticeship was transferred to Richard Rogers through the Goldsmiths’ Company. Rogers lived and worked on London’s Fleet Street, a bustling centre of commerce where many famous clock and watchmakers had already set up business. It was in this lively environment that Edward learned how to work with different metals and trained in specialist skills, such as engraving and ornamentation. He also met one of the leading London watchmakers, Edmund Bull (1585-1622), son of the eminent watchmaker and goldsmith John Bull. At some point, East may have worked as an apprentice for Bull, as there is evidence that he travelled with him on a business trip to Holland during this time. Pear-shaped watch in a rock crystal case. Gilt-brass dial engraved with the Nativity and a figure of Time. Made by Edward East, London, c....
Time+Tide
A cheeky take on a Lunar New Year watch, this limited edition collab pays tribute to the iconic Snake mobile game from 1998.The post The Twelve Snake by Christopher Ward x seconde/seconde/ takes the Year of the Snake back to 1998 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Back in 2023, LVMH and its high watchmaking workshop La Fabrique du Temps revived the Daniel Roth brand, which had been owned by Bulgari since 2000. Roth was a towering name in independent watchmaking, having been a peer of Philippe Dufour and Francois-Paul Journe. Though the brand only lasted from 1988 to 1995, its resurrection in 2023 was only made more glorious due to the long gap. The resurrected brand debuted with the Tourbillon Souscription, which has been followed up with the new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription, a faithful remake of the original from the 1990s that was released at LVMH Watch Week 2025. The “Neo-vintage” craze has only gotten more popular in recent years, with the generation of watches sandwiched between vintage and modern gaining the respect and appreciation of collectors and newcomers alike. The Chopard L.U.C 1860 reissue from 2023 was one of the most celebrated neo-vintage reissues in recent years and I’d venture to say that this Roth will join the ranks. Staying true to the original aesthetics — with contemporary concessions for things like movement development — is a recipe for success in these small-batch, high-visibility watches. Small production numbers for relative rarity are helping to keep neo-vintage from becoming overexposed, but for how long? We’ll have to wait and see on that end, but for now let’s get back to the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription. The simple, two-hand dress watch comes in that recognizable double-e...
Monochrome
A watch that combines robustness and fine watchmaking – something we even put to the test in the wild, believe it or not – the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer has been seen in a variety of editions since its introduction. Bright colours, appealing skeletonized haute horlogerie movements, and even a funky retrograde seconds display […]
Fratello
Urwerk is confused. The brand doesn’t know if its new watch has a green or gray face, and a compromise entered the name. The Urwerk UR-100V “Hunter Green” is sober green with hints of cool gray. Hunter green - Hex code #2c5f34 - is a lush, cool-toned green color between blue and green. If you […] Visit Introducing: The Urwerk UR-100V “Hunter Green” - Not All Green, Not All Gray, But Definitely An Urwerk to read the full article.
Time+Tide
We're looking to raise £3 million in private investment to open a retail space in New York.The post Andrew reveals plan to open a Time+Tide NYC Discovery Studio to Financial Times appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Working at Fratello has its perks. One of them is that, on rare occasions, we get access to our absolute grail watches. I had such an experience just a few months ago when I spent time with a Rolex Submariner ref. 5508. Today, I get yet another such opportunity. It’s my pleasure to go hands-on […] Visit Meeting My Grail: The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Chronograph to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
When Timex launched the Giorgio Galli S1 in 2020, an eponymous watch designed by the brand’s long-time creative director with over 30 years in the industry, it was met with shock. It didn’t look like a Timex, having a stripped-down, retro-luxury vibe. It didn’t feel like a Timex, constructed from injection molded steel and featuring a Miyota movement inside. It wasn’t priced like a Timex, initially listed at $450. And yet, it was described by the historic brand as “the most ‘Timex’ Timex ever made,” a bold statement and perhaps even a challenge to what we expect from the brand. It was met with excitement, if also some confusion, that wore off as the S1 took root and eventually spawned subsequent versions, including an enthusiast-friendly 38mm variety. In 2023, Timex followed up with the S2, which took Giorgio Galli’s vision further into conceptual territory as well as upmarket. The DNA of the S1 was clear, but the S2 was more than a refinement; it was a genuine evolution of the concept. Combining steel and titanium, the 38mm x 46mm x 12mm case was hollowed out from the side, revealing an unexpected structure for a sleeker, more contemporary style. The dial was further reduced to an expansive surface with a single applied ring, notched at intervals of five. Finally, it was Swiss-made, and powered by a decorated Selitta SW200 automatic. Minimal in a Euro-chic way, the S2 was a restrained and mature design intended to speak to the enthusiasts in Timex’s fa...
Worn & Wound
From Steve McQueen’s Heuer Monaco to Breitling clocks in Bentley GTs, there’s simply no denying how inextricably linked cars and wristwatches are. The mechanical artistry exhibited in both of their productions demonstrates how creativity and engineering can produce incredible pieces of technology with a hint of style and flair. Autodromo––a watch brand inspired by the history and allure of the automotive industry––is set to release a limited-edition variant of their Monoposto timepiece in collaboration with Mobil 1 to celebrate the company’s 50th anniversary of their synthetic motor oil. Limited to 100 pieces for the stainless-steel variant and 50 pieces for the gold tone variant, this model is the first re-issue of the original three-hand Monoposto produced by Autodromo in 2012. Let’s start off with the Mobile 1 Edition’s specs. Both steel and gold tone cases have a rather large 43mm diameter, employing the design principles utilized in “the oversized dashboard gauges of 1950s ‘monopostos’ or single seater racing cars,” according to Autodromo. The watch’s wire lugs support 20mm handmade Italian buffalo leather straps fitted with stainless roller buckles. Powering the piece is the dependable Miyota 9039, an automatic 24-jewel movement with hacking and hand winding, beating at a solid 4 Hz with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. The movement can be admired through the exhibition caseback featuring Mobil 1 branding and other informatio...
Teddy Baldassarre
Among today’s Seiko watch models and collections, it’s fair to say that the Seiko Astron does not receive nearly the amount of love from enthusiasts and collectors as do its contemporaries, like the Prospex and Presage models and even the budget-friendly 5 Sport series. And yet I believe a substantial case can be made that the Astron — at least, the first watch to bear that name, way back at the collection’s inception in 1969 — is the most important watch of the 20th Century. The first watch to the market with a quartz movement, the Seiko Astron was a game-changer for the entire watch industry, with an impact that is still being felt today. When Seiko revived the Astron in 2012 after a long hiatus, it was with the recognition that the model represented a quantum leap in watchmaking technology and the determination to take it to the next level. Seiko has fulfilled that promise with subsequent editions of the modern Astron, which brought GPS technology into watchmaking much as the original brought quartz. Here is the story of the Seiko Astron and its 50-plus-year journey to the cutting edge of technology. The Road to Quartz: 1952 - 1968 The quartz watch movement, as with many other groundbreaking inventions, did not emerge from a single burst of creative vision, but ultimately proved to be the most workable version of many such mechanisms, all aimed toward addressing the same industry-wide challenge. As I explore in greater depth in my article on the History of Tim...
Deployant
A new experience watch from Panerai, this time with the Radiomir 8 Giorni Eilean Experience Edition and a journey to Sicily.
Monochrome
Under Manuel Emch’s capable and creative leadership, Louis Erard has evolved from relative obscurity to become an exciting player on the watch scene, offering original timepieces by contemporary artists, designers and watchmakers. However, what makes Louis Erard’s doubly attractive is the combination of original content with accessible prices. The notion that a handcrafted Grand Feu […]
SJX Watches
A historical brand that was recently revived, Aquastar continues to mine its past catalogue with the Benthos Heritage II, a contemporary interpretation the original Benthos diver’s watch of 1970. Drawing on sketches from Aquastar’s archives, the new release has a typical 1970s style with a “turtle” case that’s a suitably compact 40 mm in diameter, but with a modern-day ceramic bezel insert and Sellita movement. Initial thoughts The Benthos Heritage II is essentially an affordable, wearable dive watch with contemporary specifications and materials. While the brand’s earlier Benthos was a substantial 42 mm by 15.4 mm, the new model is scaled down, reduced by 2 mm in diameter and 3.5 mm in thickness, giving it the smaller, vintage-like proportions that are popular today. However, Aquastar is just one of many brands producing vintage-inspired dive watches. In fact, its owner was also behind the relaunch of Doxa, also a brand specialising in vintage-remake dive watches. As a result, the new Benthos is not a unique concept, but it is well considering the price. Priced at US$1,490 on a stainless steel bracelet, the Benthos Heritage II is a decent value proposition. It’s priced similarly to other micro-brand offerings of comparable quality, but unlike startup brands, it comes with the historical background of the Aquastar brand. Part of its affordability is explained by the pre-order sales model, which means orders placed and paid for now will only be fulfilled in Ma...
Monochrome
While primarily known for its minimalistic watch displaying the time thanks to a single hand (which is used to display the hours mainly, and a deliberately vague indication of the minutes), MeisterSinger is no stranger to additional complications, in particular astronomical and calendar features – admitidely, a great match with slightly old-school and poetical single-hand […]
SJX Watches
The ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition is Oris’ second collaboration with The Muppets, following the ProPilot X Kermit two years ago. Housed in a 34 mm stainless steel case, the Miss Piggy Edition has vibrant “hot pink” dial with a synthetic diamond for a 12 o’clock marker, while the Muppets character makes an appearance on the rotor, and can be glimpsed through a small porthole on the case back. The new edition retains the model’s signature knurled bezel and integrated bracelet equipped with a “Lift” folding clasp modelled on an aircraft seat belt buckle. Initial thoughts Though part of the ProPilot line that’s mostly made up of no-frills aviator’s watches, the Miss Piggy Edition is definitely not a traditional pilot’s watch. Instead, it’s a playful interpretation of the genre that’s conceived for women, which also encapsulates the brand’s experimental spirit found in its limited editions. The novelty of the Muppets theme aside, the watch also has an acceptable level of fit and finish for the price, which is nonetheless a little steep. With a retail price of US$3,200, the Miss Piggy Edition is relatively expensive given its movement, even considering the synthetic diamond marker. It is powered by the Oris cal. 531, which is actually a Sellita SW100, a movement with easy serviceability and reliability, but one that’s inexpensive. Many of its competitors in this price segment, Tudor and Longines for instance, offer watches with higher-spec movements, ...
Monochrome
It’s now widely known that Citizen can be pretty aggressive when it comes to its price policy. Whatever the range of watches you’re looking at, you’ll always end up with great value for your money – the EUR 299 Tsuyosa is a great example, but so are the Promaster Automatic Diver or the Challenge Diver […]
Worn & Wound
Few things in your everyday carry (EDC) kit are as important as the bag that holds it all together. Huckberry and GORUCK are both known for their quality craftsmanship and robust product designs capable of withstanding a lifetime of use. Their collaboration on the GR1 Slick backpack brings together GORUCK’s mission-ready form factor with Huckberry’s aesthetic aptitude. Whether you’re a seasoned adventurer or someone who just values durable, functional gear, the Huckberry x GORUCK GR1 Slick is a game-changer in the world of EDC. The Huckberry x GORUCK GR1 Slick comes in both a 21L and 26L option. For this review, I went hands-on with the 21L in ranger green, though both options are also offered in black and coyote colorways. I had familiarity with GORUCK and its reputation within the military community before receiving this bag, and was curious to see if my experience with it lived up to the hype. GORUCK founder Jason McCarthy, a former Green Beret, wanted to create a product that could take a beating and continue performing under extreme conditions. The GR1 was originally designed as a bag that could withstand the intense demands of special forces operations. I am not a veteran myself, but I’m fortunate to have a close circle of veteran friends, one of whom kindly lent me his well-loved GORUCK GR2 for comparison. Though his backpack is 40L, nearly twice the capacity of mine, it was helpful to have something older with which to compare the Huckberry x GORUCK GR1 S...
Monochrome
Being a watch enthusiast/collector often requires looking at things with more than a little bit of romance. To make us want to keep acquiring the same tiny combination of metal, gears and springs over and over and over again, a watch must be more than the sum of its parts. Sometimes, that means looking back […]
Time+Tide
Faithful to designs produced by the brand long before its rebirth, the Ref. 502 is a vintage revival done right.The post A travel through time with the Trematic Ref. 502 Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
On March 9th, 2024, the inaugural British Watchmakers’ Day occurred in Westminster, London, England. Organized by the Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, this event was celebrated as the premier watch gathering in the U.K. More than 40 brands participated, including Christopher Ward, Elliot Brown, Isotope, and even Roger W. Smith. The event was by all accounts a success, so it’s no surprise that a second event has been scheduled for Saturday, March 8th. One of the 2024 exhibitors was Beaucroft, based in Cambridge. Our very own Garrett Jones had a hands-on experience with their Forest Green Element watch in December 2024, and he enjoyed it. For this year’s British Watchmakers’ Day event, Beaucroft has collaborated with Bristol-based artist Tim Gresham, known as Penfold, to create the Penfold Special Edition watch. Penfold’s portfolio includes abstract paintings, screen printing, large-scale murals, and immersive installations. He has exhibited in galleries worldwide and collaborated with iconic brands. His influences range from skateboard graphics and Memphis-style furniture to artists like Tom Wesselmann and Eduardo Paolozzi from the Pop Art movement and contemporary figures like MOMO and KAWS. Based on their Element platform, the matte-finished white dial provided a blank canvas for Penfold to showcase his artwork. Apart from the rehaut and hands, the rest of the design is Penfold’s creation. From the supplied images, the airbrushed design elements app...
Quill & Pad
The new The Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence has received a lot of press recently, and well deservedly so: it's a well-size (37 mm), quirky take on modern dress watch. But Ian Skellern think it looks too much like a Urwerk UR-101.
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