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Up Close: IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3716 SJX Watches
IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3716 Launched Jul 14, 2020

Up Close: IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3716

Launched three years after the Portugieser rattrapante chronograph of 1995, the first-generation Portugieser Chronograph ref. 3714 combined straightforward good looks, excellent dimensions and an affordable price. Unsurprisingly it was resoundingly popular, and a bestseller for over 20 years. Apart from an upmarket spin-off, the ref. 3903 with the in-house cal. 89361 – that was not quite a success due to a size and price – the ref. 3714 remained virtually unchanged since inception except for a new dial colour every so often. The movement within also remained the same over its two-decade production run – the cal. 79350, a gently upgraded Valjoux 7750. Then in 2018, IWC offered the first glimpse of the future when the brand celebrated its 150th anniversary. Amongst the commemorative editions was the Portugieser Chronograph Edition 150 Years ref. 3716, near identical to the ref. 3714 but powered by the in-house cal. 69355. Now the Portugieser Chronograph 3716 has officially joined the catalogue as a regular-production model, replacing the venerable ref. 3714. The ref. 3716 in the classic gold-on-silver guise The ref. 3716 in burgundy Initial thoughts The new Portugieser Chronograph ref. 3716 is essentially a ref. 3714 with a superior, in-house movement. If you liked the original, you will definitely like the ref. 3716. Importantly, the ref. 3716 6 is a good value proposition. It’s priced at less than 5% over the original, a modest and entirely reasonable increase....

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Tiger: So Lifelike You Expect It To Leap From The Dial Quill & Pad
Jaquet Droz Jul 13, 2020

Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Tiger: So Lifelike You Expect It To Leap From The Dial

When Martin Green first saw athe Jaquet Droz Petite Heure Minute Tiger he thought that Jaquet Droz had used a photorealistic print on the dial, so real was the miniature enamel painting for him. The artist focused on the eyes of the tiger, and its gaze is so lifelike and filled with restrained power that it is almost scary. It looks like it’s about to pounce right off the dial!

VIDEO: Highlights of the 2020 Panerai collection, including the watch with a warranty that will probably out-live you Time+Tide
Panerai collection including Jul 13, 2020

VIDEO: Highlights of the 2020 Panerai collection, including the watch with a warranty that will probably out-live you

96. That’s how old I’ll be when the warranty on one of these watches runs out. This year is all about the Luminor in the 2020 Panerai collection, with a number of exciting new references that have been released so far. We focus on two highlights within the collection, the Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01117 and … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Highlights of the 2020 Panerai collection, including the watch with a warranty that will probably out-live you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces Jul 13, 2020

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT

A star of contemporary watchmaking as a result of its consistent innovation in unusual, lightweight materials, Richard Mille watches have a unique style that is instantly recognisable. A bestseller that’s arguably the brand’s signature watch, the  RM 11 is large, technical-looking, and now in its fifth generation. The RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT is the latest to join the RM 11 line-up, which was first launched over a decade now but regularly face-lifted. Limited to 140 pieces and powered by the same RMAC3 calibre found in its predecessors, the RM 11-05 continues Richard Mille’s material-centric design with a case in grey cermet. Initial thoughts Richard Mille watches are unfailing bold, and often extravagant; the RM 11-05 sticks to that formula and is immediately identifiable. It is a modest, incremental change over earlier RM 11 variants, so it doesn’t offer substantial novelty. But for a fan of the brand and its trademark style, it is very much the traditional Richard Mille look and feel. Blending metal and ceramic The RM 11-05 is novel in its case material – surprising since the brand seems to have used every conceivable modern material – which is grey cermet case, a first for Richard Mille. A contraction of ceramic and metal, cermet is a composite of ceramic and metal alloy, resulting in a material that combines the properties of the two. Cermet is more commonly employed in  ballistic protection and aerospace components. Although the m...

MICRO MONDAYS: Spinnaker watches might just be your next sub-$1000 throwdown Time+Tide
Jul 12, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Spinnaker watches might just be your next sub-$1000 throwdown

It’s Monday in July in 2020, folks, and that means two certainties for yours truly – the first of five full weeks stuck in lockdown, and a chance to focus on another independent watchmaker. That’s right, it’s MICRO MONDAYS, and today we’re taking a closer look at a brand that is already well known in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Spinnaker watches might just be your next sub-$1000 throwdown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition is more grit than glamour Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Jul 11, 2020

HANDS-ON: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition is more grit than glamour

This year, Daniel Craig will star as James Bond for the final time in the upcoming No Time To Die film, a blockbuster that is sure to be action packed and offer a much needed reprieve from the dystopian movie that is our current reality. On his wrist for this film will be a watch … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition is more grit than glamour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Two New Breguet La Tradition Models For 2020 (+ Live Photos): No Battle Of The Sexes Necessary Here Quill & Pad
Breguet La Tradition Models Jul 10, 2020

Two New Breguet La Tradition Models For 2020 (+ Live Photos): No Battle Of The Sexes Necessary Here

The drama of Breguet's La Tradition lay – and continues to lie – in its stylistically vintage appearance coupled with a movement finished using historical techniques and the extreme visibility of the mechanical components from the dial side. Here Elizabeth Doerr looks at two new models for 2020 that are bound to make you a fan of the style.

The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport Jul 10, 2020

The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes

Much like a car manufacturer does when it designs a brand new engine, TAG Heuer are making sure that their flagship self-winding chronograph movement, the Calibre Heuer 02, finds its way into every chrono they’ve released this year. And just days after letting us know that their three in-demand limited edition chronographs equipped with the … ContinuedThe post The boldly modern new TAG Heuer Carrera Chrono Sport is here to save those tiring of heritage remakes appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New: Omega Constellation Gent’s Collection with Editorial Commentary Deployant
Omega Constellation Gent’s Collection Jul 10, 2020

New: Omega Constellation Gent’s Collection with Editorial Commentary

The next generation of the ever popular Omega Constellation is now launched. Here is the Press Release with our commentary in italics. The Constellation collection has been available in 39 and 36 mm in both mechanical and quartz movements. In this release, the collection gets updated with a 41mm case size, and mechanical movements. TheRead More

Bovet Introduces the Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two SJX Watches
Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire Jul 10, 2020

Bovet Introduces the Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two

Helmed by Pascal Raffy, Bovet is a small and independent brand that excels in timepieces that are ornate, original and eccentric – and often highly complicated. The modern-day philosophy of the brand echoes the brand’s origins in the 19th century when it was a leading purveyor of pocket watches to the Chinese market. This year, Bovet furthers its distinctive expression of watchmaking with the Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two. Features an imposing but transparent sapphire case with a sloped, “writing desk” profile, the watch is equipped with a host of complications, from a flying tourbillon to a three-dimensional moon phase. And despite the name, Brainstorm Chapter Two is not just a sequel to the Brainstorm Chapter One, but is more like a newly-conceived watch. Initial thoughts Immediately eye-catching, the sapphire case has a very unconventional inclined shape. Introduced in 2016, the form takes after the traditional sloped-top writing desk and is now a signature Bovet design. While transparent sapphire cases are not new – they are in fact commonplace today with watches with several launched this year, including the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire and the Chanel J12 X-Ray – the Bovet case is unusual in form. It is not entirely sapphire, however, and instead made up of a titanium frame of the case back and lugs, with the sapphire case middle and front mounted on the frame. The titanium case back and its pins that secure the sapphire case middle Though fashi...

Business News: James Murdoch to Become Major Shareholder in Baselworld Owner SJX Watches
Jul 10, 2020

Business News: James Murdoch to Become Major Shareholder in Baselworld Owner

Having been pummelled by the COVID-19 pandemic and the implosion of Baselworld, the watch fair’s owner MCH Group has just announced a CHF104.5m rescue led by the canton of Basel and James Murdoch. But the crown jewel is not the Baselworld watch and jewellery fair, but Art Basel, which is undoubtedly the prize Mr Murdoch is after. As part of the rescue, the canton of Basel will convert its CHF30m loan to MCH into equity, with the balance being made up of a rights issue priced at a 25% discount to the 30-day average for MCH shares, which hit a peak of CHF80 in 2017 and traded around CHF17 in recent weeks. Through his family investment office Lupa Systems, Mr Murdoch will underwrite the rights issue, subscribing to all rights not taken up by other shareholders. At the same time, the canton of Basel and its regional bank have extended the repayment period for outstanding loans to MCH, while a bond offering is planned in the near future. Beyond shoring up the finances of MCH, the exercise will leaving Mr Murdoch with 30-44% of MCH Group, along with three board seats. Restrictions on shareholder voting rights will also be abolished, removing the outsized voting power of the cantons of Basel and Zurich, once the dominant influences in MCH. A long-term investment Mr Murdoch is the younger son of Rupert Murdoch, perhaps the most powerful figure in the broadcast and news business in the Western world. Recent newspaper reports have said the younger Murdoch was negotiating with MC...

IN-DEPTH: Linde Werdelin release ‘3 Timer’ GMT in sandblasted steel with stunning blue gradient dial, limited to just 55 Time+Tide
Linde Werdelin Jul 9, 2020

IN-DEPTH: Linde Werdelin release ‘3 Timer’ GMT in sandblasted steel with stunning blue gradient dial, limited to just 55

No fauxtina, no sub 40mm case and seemingly hewn out of a three ton block of arctic granite … I am blown away by how something so big can be so refreshing. A massive chunk of sandblasted blue freshness. You can tell by my name that I might have a Nordic bias here – but … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Linde Werdelin release ‘3 Timer’ GMT in sandblasted steel with stunning blue gradient dial, limited to just 55 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Introduces the Constellation Gents’ 41 mm with Ceramic Bezels SJX Watches
Omega Introduces Jul 9, 2020

Omega Introduces the Constellation Gents’ 41 mm with Ceramic Bezels

One of the longest-lived models in the Omega line up, the Constellation with its characteristic “claw” bezel made its debut in 1982 as the Constellation Manhattan. Still looking like a 1980s design many years after that, the collection was face-lifted this year and given a smart new look that retained all of the key elements but with tighter, more modern lines. Now Omega has just taken the covers off the flagship men’s model, the Constellation Gents’ 41 mm that features an unusual combination of a metal case, polished ceramic bezel, and an integrated strap or bracelet. Initial thoughts Offered in a variety of striking dial and bezels combinations – with the red gold and blue ceramic being the most striking – the latest Constellation is the most noteworthy of any recent model. Despite the number of iterations, each model has a cohesive look with all the elements complementing each other. My favourite is undoubtedly the steel version with a irregularly textured dial thats adds visual appeal and intricacy compared to its counterparts with simpler dial finishes. Regardless of iteration, the new Constellation also has a slightly sporty look that is appealing, unlike earlier attempts at a sporty Constellations – like the chunky Constellation Double Eagle – that fell flat. Overall its a good-looking but affordable luxury-sports watch in steel And it does look much better in 18k gold, but then it costs three times as much. Shiny ceramic What makes them special a...

Five Great Montblanc Chronographs For 2020: One For (Nearly) Every Occasion Quill & Pad
Montblanc Chronographs Jul 8, 2020

Five Great Montblanc Chronographs For 2020: One For (Nearly) Every Occasion

Montblanc has kept the Minerva spirit alive, not only through the chiefly handmade and -decorated movements still manufactured in Minerva’s historical factory in Villeret, but also in these watches' wonderfully nostalgic designs. Martin Green highlights five new Montblanc chronographs for 2020 that blend tradition with good modern design in the best way.

NEWS: Hublot launch an ecommerce site with a big bang, huge number of references available for purchase now Time+Tide
Hublot launch Jul 8, 2020

NEWS: Hublot launch an ecommerce site with a big bang, huge number of references available for purchase now

Adapt or die. You either get with these troubled times, or consign yourself to the pages of history. For watchmakers and retailers alike, or really anyone in the world of horology, this sentiment has never been more real or more confronting. COVID-19 poses a threat to the luxury watch industry that may dwarf even the … ContinuedThe post NEWS: Hublot launch an ecommerce site with a big bang, huge number of references available for purchase now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kanye West is running for US President, here are 5 of his watches you might spot on the campaign trail Time+Tide
Jul 8, 2020

Kanye West is running for US President, here are 5 of his watches you might spot on the campaign trail

Earlier this week, Kanye West announced that he was going to run for President of the United States. That’s right, the 43-year-old rapper and streetwear designer married to Kim Kardashian says he will run in this year’s election that is set to play out in November. While it’s certainly a late announcement, and it isn’t … ContinuedThe post Kanye West is running for US President, here are 5 of his watches you might spot on the campaign trail appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda GT Collection SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe Parmigiani Jul 8, 2020

Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda GT Collection

Following up the more complex Toric Tourbillon Slate, Parmigiani is launching its first ever luxury-sports watch, the Tonda GT. Founded in 1996 by highly-regarded independent watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, the brand specialises in complicated watches like the tubular, Bugatti-inspired Type 390. A departure from the brand’s usual far in both form and price, the Tonda GT line comprises a time-and-date base model, the Tonda GT, as well as the star of the show: the Tondagraph GT chronograph with annual calendar. Tondagraph GT Both are sports watches, with screw-down crowns and water resistance of 100 m. But they takes they cues from past Parmigiani designs, but translated into a more angular, modern shape. The knurled bezel, for instance, takes inspiration from the Toric, the brand’s very first wristwatch. And the dials are decorated with traditional clous triangulaire guilloché. Initial thoughts The new watches add a more casual, sporty offering to the Tonda collection. With distinct designs that don’t ride on the styling of Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Parmigiani is offering a unique and well-priced line that’s suited to both the great outdoors and more formal occasions. Importantly, the Tonda GT is attractively priced, given the high quality of execution and in-house movements. Parmigiani makes almost all components in-house or at its sister companies, and if its current watches are anything to go by, the fit and finish on the Tonda GT will be as good a...

Ressence Introduces the Type 1 Slim X SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces Jul 7, 2020

Ressence Introduces the Type 1 Slim X

Founded only a decade ago, Ressence has already left an indelible impression on watchmaking. Lauded for a design philosophy that is centred on legibility, wearability and intuitive function, the brand’s unusual perspective is thanks to its founder Benoît Mintiens, an industrial designer by profession. To mark its 10th year, Ressence has debuted the Type 1 Slim X, the first of four watches in the commemorative Collection X – “X” being a Roman “10”. Limited to 40 watches, the new watch is essentially identical to the standard Type 1 Slim, but face-lifted with an intriguing dial in a single shade of olive green but finished with contrasting surfaces to achieve a two-tone effect. The remaining Collection X watches will be dressed in a similar shade of green. Initial thoughts I have long been fascinated by Ressence and its watches. The first time I laid eyes on a Ressence, I assumed that it was just an electronic watch with a high-pixel density display; the dial on it was truly flat. When I found out what it was – the effect was due to the oil-filled time display chamber – surprise was an understatement. They are in a class of their own in terms of design, and are, in fact, great examples of “postmodern” mechanical watchmaking. The dark olive dial on the anniversary Type 1 Slim is a first for the brand. The colour is attractive but not as widely used as I would like, with the exception of military-style timepieces, which this is definitely not. To see i...

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces Jul 7, 2020

Breguet Introduces the Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097

Breguet is one of the grandest names in watchmaking, and mostly makes watches that are rooted in its history. The aptly named Tradition exudes, well, tradition. Modelled on the souscription pocket watch created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796, the wide-ranging collection has been gently modernised in recent years. The newly-announced Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 continues that trend, with a dark blue guilloché dial against a grey movement. Initial thoughts This version of the Tradition 7097 is possibly my favourite yet, mostly because of the off-centre dial in blue. Engine-turned by hand, the blue dial is striking against the monochromatic movement. And it looks especially appealing when compared against the earlier versions that have plainer and more conventional silvered dials, which offer less contrast against the movement. But as with all other Tradition watches, there’s a nit to pick here: the serial number plaque on the dial makes it look a bit cluttered, especially since the dial is small to begin with. One solution would be to put the serial numbers beside the Breguet logo, as done on the female Tradition Dame 7038. And while I like the retrograde seconds, its position feels awkward as it cuts into the sub-dial. Though intersecting indicators are a feature in some historical Breguet pocket watches, the face of the Tradition is a bit too small to accommodate it comfortably. The white gold case is in classic Breguet style a delicately-fluted ...

MICRO MONDAYS: Ollech & Wajs are the tool watch company you should check out if utilitarian is your thing Time+Tide
Jul 5, 2020

MICRO MONDAYS: Ollech & Wajs are the tool watch company you should check out if utilitarian is your thing

This week on Micro Mondays, we are looking at a brand that is a little older than most of the watch manufacturers we feature in this column - Ollech & Wajs. And what a story the company has … This might be one of the best-kept secrets in the watch industry, with the Zurich-based company … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Ollech & Wajs are the tool watch company you should check out if utilitarian is your thing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.