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Tool Watch vs Dress Watch

The two ends of the wristwatch axis: utility vs formality. The Submariner / Calatrava extremes and the 1972 Royal Oak hybrid.

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding 270th Anniversary SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding 270th A... Apr 1, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding 270th Anniversary

Vacheron Constantin is marking its 270th birthday in style with a clever limited edition of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding featuring a unique dial pattern that depicts the brand’s emblematic Maltese Cross. In total, 740 pieces will be made, with production split evenly between the platinum and 18k rose gold editions. Initial thoughts The 38 mm Traditionnelle has long been a staple (and fan favourite) within the Vacheron Constantin (VC) catalogue. Over the years we’ve seen numerous limited editions for specific boutiques and the brand has even made one-off pieces for its best customers. So it makes sense that VC would return to this watch as part of its milestone 270th birthday. On paper, the anniversary edition is classic Traditionnelle, featuring the model’s goldilocks proportions of 38 mm by 7.77 mm. One of my favourite characteristics of this watch, and the Traditionnelle collection more broadly, is VC’s unique take on the Dauphine-style hands, which are divided along their length into polished and frosted sections. This touch catches the light in a truly special way, and brings a great deal of life to the dial. The Traditionnelle is powered by the well-known cal. 4400, but it’s dressed up with special ‘côte unique’ finishing for this anniversary edition. It’s an interesting choice, being more muted in its appearance than typical Genevois finishing. The only other difference between the anniversary Traditionnelle and the regular production models is...

First Look – The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic Jaeger-LeCoul... Mar 31, 2025

First Look – The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso started life in 1931 as a pragmatic solution for British polo players in India who were constantly smashing the glass on their watches. Thanks to its patented swivelling case, players could protect the dial and switch it back in time for a Pimms Cup. A pivotal moment in the life of the Reverso, […]

Introducing: The Surprising Sartory Billard By Studio Underd0g SB05 Sunfl0wer Fratello
Studio Underd0g Mar 31, 2025

Introducing: The Surprising Sartory Billard By Studio Underd0g SB05 Sunfl0wer

Did Sartory Billard and Studio Underd0g announce one of the most exciting watches of this release-packed week? The two brands joined forces to create a very special version of Sartory Billard’s SB05. This new SB05 Sunfl0wer features a unique dial designed by Studio Underd0g and produced by Sartory Billard. This 10-piece limited edition will undoubtedly […] Visit Introducing: The Surprising Sartory Billard By Studio Underd0g SB05 Sunfl0wer to read the full article.

Singer Reimagines the Valjoux 236 SJX Watches
Mar 28, 2025

Singer Reimagines the Valjoux 236

An offshoot of the cult “restomod” automaker specialising in Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined has up till now specialised in chronographs powered by the novel, modern AgenGraphe movement. Now the brand is taking the opposite tack with the Singer Reimagined Heritage Collection. The Heritage chronograph retains the signature Singer style, but is equipped with a rejuvenated and decorated Valjoux 236 movement that was originally made in the 1970s. The “new old stock” movement makes the Heritage more affordable than Singer’s earlier chronographs; it retails for CHF16,700 before taxes. Initial thoughts The Heritage chronograph has an appealing design with thoughtful details, which is unsurprising since Singer founder Marco Borracino is a designer by profession. Many of the details evoke 1970s motorsports chronographs, but the watch still manages to look original and capture the Singer house style. That said, the Heritage is less interesting than earlier Singer chronographs because the movement is pretty straightforward. The Valjoux 236 is a good example of high-quality industrial watchmaking of the mid-20th century, moreover it’s been dressed up well in for the Heritage. But it’s still a fairly basic chronograph movement that doesn’t have the inventiveness of the AgenGraphe found in Singer’s flagship Track 1 chronograph. But the Heritage chronograph is priced fairly for what it is. The CHF16,700 price tag makes it a competitive proposition. And it enjoys the adv...

Introducing The New Breitling Top Time B31 With A Brand New Engine WatchAdvice
Breitling Top Time B31 Mar 25, 2025

Introducing The New Breitling Top Time B31 With A Brand New Engine

Breitling has released its latest Top Time collection and with it, a new in-house movement in the form of the Calibre B31 What We Love The vintage style will tick a lot of boxes for collectors The dial colour choices are on the mark The new B31 is a great step forward for Breitling What We Don’t The 38mm size may not suit all wrist sizes The date magnifier slightly detracts from the clean dial layout A quick change mechanism on the straps would have been welcomed, as would a screw in crown Overall Rating: 8.4 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Before we get into the new watches, for those who are not up with their Breitling history, then let’s take a step back and look at just how the Breitling Top Time came to be, given it is one of the more niche, or cult collections in the brand’s stable. The Breitling Top Time burst onto the scene in the 1960s as a bold, youthful alternative to the brand’s more aviation-focused chronographs. Designed for a new generation of style-conscious adventurers, it stood out with striking dial layouts, often featuring contrasting sub-dials that gave it an unmistakable sporty edge that was inspired by and closely associated with all forms of motorsport. It quickly found its way onto the wrists of racers, thrill-seekers, and even Hollywood icons—most notably, James Bond in Thunderball (1965), where a specially modified Top Time doubled as a Geiger counter. This moment cemented its reputati...

Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Geometry Black Worn & Wound
Schwarz Etienne Introduces Mar 25, 2025

Schwarz Etienne Introduces the Geometry Black

In 2023, Schwarz Etienne debuted the Geometry line of watches. With its deconstructed dial, this collection has mixed technical precision and artistic license to create a set of watches that show that going a little avant-garde can have a huge pay-off. Right in time for Watches and Wonders, the Swiss house has released the final addition to their Geometry line, the Geometry Black.  Previous iterations of the Geometry line have included a salmon and silver dial option, both accentuating the ripples of guilloché in alternative patterns, including a variety of finishes: fluted lines, azuré, clous de Paris and fine sandblasted finishes. Here, the Geometry Black is a bit more subtle, but nonetheless visually appealing. The black colorway is a grown-up alternative to previous models that feels more appropriate for everyday wear, or for more formal occasions, without sacrificing the impressive technical expertise needed to build a watch as balanced as this one. Apart from the dial, Schwarz Etienne made the right decision in keeping the rest of the watch fairly spartan. Other than the lacine-style hands and sandblasted anthracite subdial, there aren’t a lot of bells and whistles – or even numerals, for that matter – to distract from the real star of the show. Coming in a 39mm stainless steel case and paired with a patinated black leather strap, I wouldn’t say this watch is simple but it’s minimal in the best way possible. Like previous references in the collection, th...

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: Reverend Henry Leonard Nelthropp – The First Great Collector of Watches and Clocks Worn & Wound
Mar 25, 2025

The Greatest Horologists You’ve Never Heard Of: Reverend Henry Leonard Nelthropp – The First Great Collector of Watches and Clocks

Few private horological collections survive intact from the 19th century. The fully catalogued collection of clocks and watches by Rev. Henry Leonard Nelthropp FSA was made initially without the benefit of any reference books. The extensive collection of 260 items was presented to the Clockmakers’ Museum in 1894 and is a fascinating insight into the mind of a pioneering private collector. Reverend Henry Nelthropp FSA (1820 – 1901) began his career as a curate in Bristol. He then served as Chaplain to the British Legation in Switzerland but after receiving an inheritance, retired to London. From 1854, he had indulged in his fascination for horology and had begun to collect. He built up a remarkable knowledge of his subject, although few reference books were available to him. After receiving an inheritance, Nelthropp focused on collecting clocks and watches with historical significance, particularly those from the 17th and 18th centuries. His collection included examples of all types of British and European clockmaking and scientific instruments, including a variety of longcase clocks, bracket clocks, early pocket watches, hour glasses, astrolabes, celestial globes amongst other horological items. Drum shaped clock by an unknown maker, Germany, 1525-1550. The Clockmakers’ Museum/Clarissa Bruce © The Clockmakers’ Charity This is one of the earliest pieces in the Nelthropp collection. A drum shaped clock by an unknown maker in Germany made between 1525-1550. It has an...

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Rolex Watches With Integrated Bracelets Fratello
Rolex Watches Mar 25, 2025

Pre-Owned Spotlight: Rolex Watches With Integrated Bracelets

Okay, we have all seen those grainy, allegedly leaked Rolex images, right? Could we see a return of Rolex watches with integrated bracelets this spring? Who knows? We haven’t engaged too much since we cannot possibly confirm anything anyway. Time will tell. However, that doesn’t stop us from enjoying the idea. So, how about a […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Rolex Watches With Integrated Bracelets to read the full article.

Introducing: The Citizen Limited-Edition 30th Anniversary Models Fratello
Citizen Limited-Edition 30th Anniversary Models Mar 23, 2025

Introducing: The Citizen Limited-Edition 30th Anniversary Models

This year, Citizen celebrates the 30th anniversary of its The Citizen line. That may sound surprising, but it’s because the brand’s top-tier watches haven’t always been available globally. Little by little, though, we’re seeing more of these creations that often feature uncommon dial materials and highly accurate movements. Today, we’ll look at two limited global […] Visit Introducing: The Citizen Limited-Edition 30th Anniversary Models to read the full article.

Hands-On With A Stealthy Trio Of Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chronos Fratello
Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chronos It Mar 21, 2025

Hands-On With A Stealthy Trio Of Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chronos

It has been a while since we reviewed a Hamilton Intra-Matic, let alone a series of them. The brand’s classic chronograph is one of my favorite watches in its current catalog. The panda-dial version of the Intra-Matic Auto holds a special place in my heart. I wore that quite a bit before I wrote the […] Visit Hands-On With A Stealthy Trio Of Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chronos to read the full article.

Breitling Acquires Gallet Worn & Wound
Breitling Acquires Gallet After several Mar 18, 2025

Breitling Acquires Gallet

After several weeks of speculation, Breitling has made an official announcement that they have acquired Gallett, the Swiss watchmaker that traces its roots back to 1826. The news was first reported by Tony Traina and a small handful of other outlets back in February, but this is the first time Breitling has acknowledged the deal in a public way. Breitling had previously announced their acquisition of Universal Genéve in 2023, a move that immediately led many to wonder of Georges Kern, Breitling’s CEO, might be looking to make additional expansions to bolster his business. Now, with the Gallett acquisition, his plans and those of the Partners Group (the investment firm which has had a stake in Breitling since 2017) appear to be coming into focus.  “This acquisition is a natural next step in Breitling’s expansion,” Kern said in a statement. “We are reviving Gallett under the umbrella of Breitling’s expertise and craftsmanship. Our vision is long-term – reviving Gallett as a strong brand in watchmaking, while honoring its legacy and innovation in chronographs.”  Unlike watches in the upcoming Universal Genéve collection, it is expected that Gallett will be sold alongside Breitling in the brand’s boutiques and, presumably, other authorized channels. This will provide potential Breitling customers with a lower priced option and is something of a  tacit admission that the asking price of a new Breitling has crept up to a level that some new customers might...

Hands On Review Of The New Vacheron Constantin 222 WatchAdvice
Vacheron Constantin 222 Building Mar 13, 2025

Hands On Review Of The New Vacheron Constantin 222

Building on the success of the yellow gold 222 reissue in 2022, Vacheron Constantin started its 270th-anniversary celebration in full swing this year with the introduction of the 222 in Steel, a long-awaited addition to its Historiques collection. What We Love: Timeless design of the 222 lives on. The stunning matte blue dial does justice to this timepiece, making it even more appealing. Case and bracelet design is exceptional with modern finishes. What We Don’t: Lack of micro-adjustment on bracelet. Lack of finishing on movement (skeletonised rotor perhaps?) Water resistance of 50m could be improved to offer better assurance for daily wearability. Overall Rating: 8.95/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 In January 2025, Vacheron Constantin kicked off its 270th-anniversary celebrations in spectacular fashion with the highly anticipated release of the 222 in steel. 2025 is shaping up to be an incredible year in the watch world, with many brands celebrating their anniversaries, but none quite like Vacheron Constantin. There are only a few brands that have surpassed the 250-year anniversary mark, which, when you think about it, is quite astonishing. Vacheron Constantin is one of those brands, but even more rare is that they have been in continuous production since 1755, a feat that remains unmatched in the world of horology. Over its 270-year history, Vacheron Constantin has created some genuinely timeless watches. From the FiftyS...

Luminous Pixels and Retro Design on Mido’s Commander 1959 SJX Watches
Longines amongst others Mar 13, 2025

Luminous Pixels and Retro Design on Mido’s Commander 1959

Originally a low-key, perhaps even boring, vintage remake, the Commander 1959 Pixel Dial livens things up with a vibrant array of blue, purple, and pink squares printed on the black dial. The new Mido departs from our usual focus on higher-end mechanical watchmaking, but at a little over US$700, it combines affordability, good-enough quality, and fun. The blue and pink squares are actually Super-LumiNova on matte black, creating a striking illuminated pixel dial in the dark. The dial is housed in the classic Commander 1959 case characterised by a “Milanese” mesh bracelet, flat bezel, and domed acrylic crystal, which evokes an unmistakable mid-century aesthetic that contrasts with the funky pixel dial. Initial thoughts Several of Mido’s recent releases, including the Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961, combine inject vibrant colours and details into vintage-inspired designs. The new Commander 1959 continues this with its unmistakably 1950s-style case paired with a modern dial. Despite the dial’s array of colours, legibility is excellent thanks to the wide hands and markers. The Pixel Dial is a simple iteration of the original, and consequently remains affordable at US$740. Like many other watches in the same price range made by Mido’s parent Swatch Group (which also owns Tissot and Longines amongst others), the Commander 1959 is equipped with the Powermatic 80, a no-frills, economical movement that nonetheless provides an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Pattern...

Blancpain Scales Down the Fifty Fathoms Tech SJX Watches
Blancpain Scales Down Mar 12, 2025

Blancpain Scales Down the Fifty Fathoms Tech

Primarily vintage-inspired, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was given a modern makeover with the first “Tech” model launched in 2023. Now Blancpain follows up with the Fifty Fathoms Tech Ocean Commitment IV. While retaining the same lug-less case, the latest model is more compact and streamlined than its Tech predecessor, though it’s still 45 mm in diameter. And it features an “absolute black” dial - coated with a substance that absorbs 97% of incident light - ensuring maximum contrast for the luminescent hands and block-shaped hour markers. Like earlier Ocean Commitment editions, which were all vintage-inspired, this watch will help support the Blancpain’s marine conservation efforts, specifically the Blancpain x Sulubaaï Marine Research Center in Palawan, Philippines. Initial thoughts The new Fifty Fathoms Tech offers notable refinements over the earlier Tech Gombessa edition from two years ago. While the oversized, 47 mm Tech Gombessa was designed primarily as a specialised diving instrument, making it arguably too large for everyday wear, the new model adopts a more conventional dive watch dimensions. At 45 mm, it’s still large but more manageable, improving its wearability. The “absolute black” dial is also an interesting upgrade that makes sense in a dive watch given the need for legibility. While Blancpain doesn’t specify the details of the dial coating, it appears to be similar to Vantablack and other blacker-than-black coatings used by other ...

Hermès Elegantly Facelifts Arceau Complications SJX Watches
Hermes Mar 11, 2025

Hermès Elegantly Facelifts Arceau Complications

Whimsical and graceful in the typical Hermès style, the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune and Arceau Le Temps Voyageur are both unusual takes on familiar complications; the two were incidentally conceived with the aid of Chronode, a complications specialist. Hermès has reworked the palette for both models, most notably with a two-tone case for the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune. This returns as a set of three watches, each featuring a dial made of a specific type of meteorite, namely Blue Grey Moon, Vesta, and Erg Chech. All three are housed in a 43 mm case with contrast-colour lugs. The Arceau Le Temps Voyageur, on the other hand, is offered separately in two guises: 41 mm in white gold, or 38 mm in rose gold with diamonds. The Arceau L’Heure de la Lune three-piece set Initial thoughts Among Hermès’ whimsical complications, the Arceau L’Heure de la Lune stands out as an unconventional and interesting reinterpretation of the simple date-and-moon-phase watch. Unlike traditional moon-phase displays, this employs mobile counters that orbit the dial over a 59-day cycle to reveal the current lunar phase. It’s a large watch and a little thick, but still elegant thanks to the design. The new variants look more modern than their predecessors thanks to the two-tone cases and meteorite dials that sport subtle colour accents that are typically Hermes. The main downside is the fact that the three are delivered as a set, which not only means the cost is high – the set retails for ...

The Evergreens – An Interesting Case… The History of the Almost Century-Old Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Mar 7, 2025

The Evergreens – An Interesting Case… The History of the Almost Century-Old Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

Today, there is only one Reverso, with Jaeger-LeCoultre printed on its dial, but this was not always the case. During the 1930s, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Cartier made watches that used the Reverso case for their timepieces. Moreover, the 1931 Reverso was not the first reversible case design. A few years earlier, Universal Geneve […]

Anoma Debuts the A1 Slate Worn & Wound
Mar 6, 2025

Anoma Debuts the A1 Slate

In a monochrome, modernist twist on the recently released A1 First Series, London upstart brand Anoma-short for Anomaly- has announced its followup, the appropriately named A1 Slate. Sharing the same smooth triangular shape with rounded angles and an offset face, the A1 Slate was similarly inspired by a free-form table designed  by Charlotte Perriand in the 1950s, and Constantin  Brâncuși’s modernist sculptures. The new gray, black, and white color scheme, however, promises a more subtle take on the shape that aligns more with the third inspiration-river stones, smoothed over time by passing water.  The 316L stainless steel triangular case is likely the first detail on the A1, whether the First Series or the Slate, that an observer will notice. Measuring in at 30mm x 38mm (though Anoma notes that the shape and lack of lugs make the fit closer to 37mm), the case is mirror-polished, and meant to refract and bend light at every angle. Without having the watch on hand, I can’t vouch for this effect, but Worn & Wound’s own Zach Weiss reviewed the A1 First Series back in January 2024 and attested to the charm of the watch’s styling and finish. The vertically-brushed dial itself stands out against the case, with individually-engraved contrasting inner triangles coated with three layers of glossy black lacquer. Leaf hour and minute hands adorn the dial, with the Anoma logo below the centerpoint. A cleverly-situated cross with lines at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clo...

Unique Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie Editions for Audemars Piguet’s 150th SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s 150th Feb 28, 2025

Unique Code 11.59 Grande Sonnerie Editions for Audemars Piguet’s 150th

The centrepiece of Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary is the ingenious perpetual calendar cal. 7138 (at least for now), but the most complicated of the commemorative editions is the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Grande Sonnerie Carillon Supersonnerie. The anniversary line-up of striking watches is comprised of five unique grande sonnerie wristwatches: three have sapphire dials that reveal the intricate strikework, while the remaining pair are fitted with iridescent opal dials. The harlequin opal dial Initial thoughts Though criticised at launch, the Code 11.59 has evolved into a varied range of watches, some of which are notably appealing (some are still pretty boring unfortunately). The grande sonnerie falls into the appealing category. The mechanics of the grande sonnerie are exceptionally complicated, and because it is a Supersonnerie equipped with AP’s patented amplification construction, the grande sonnerie is incredibly loud. The volume of the chimes are loud, but not so much that they are harsh. In short, the acoustics are impressive. The sapphire dial in sand gold case The anniversary edition grande sonnerie are individually appealing, though the opal dials are more interesting due to the novelty of the material. That said, the grande sonnerie can be customised, so a buyer is not necessarily limited to the options available for the anniversary. If I wanted to spend this much on a grande sonnerie, I’d work on my own. The pinnacle of striking watches AP is one...

New Shades for Nomos’ Affordable Club Campus SJX Watches
Nomos Affordable Club Campus Feb 25, 2025

New Shades for Nomos’ Affordable Club Campus

Nomos has just introduced four new references to its line of entry-level watches conceived for fresh graduates, the Club Campus Starlight and Night Sky. The new releases are set apart by the bold colours - blue or yellow - for the “California” dial combines Arabic and Roman numerals. Each is offered in the customary sizes for the line, 36 mm and 38.5 mm, and retain the no-frills closed case back with 100 m water resistance. Initial thoughts Appreciated for its value proposition watches with solid in-house movements, Nomos has recently suffered from a lack of novelty. Indeed, the new Club Campus models differ only in dial colours from their predecessors. But the watches are still have appeal, particularly the entry-level models like the Club Campus; some of the high-end models are arguably too pricey for a competitive segment. In short, the Club Campus is compelling value proposition, thanks to its accessible price and the basic but appealing Alpha calibre. Vibrant colours Sharing the same dimensions and overall design as its predecessors, the new pair is set apart by its vivid dial colours. Available in Starlight and Nightsky configurations, this model prominently features a small seconds display with a bold orange second hand that contrasts against the dial. Driving the watch is the Alpha movement, a manual-winding calibre based on the Peseux 7001 architecture but heavily reworked, dressed up, and now made in-house by Nomos. It delivers a 43-hour power reserve an...