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Fratello Dress Watch Season: Semifinal 2 - Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P Vs. Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 Fratello
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P Vs Breguet Nov 14, 2025

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Semifinal 2 - Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P Vs. Breguet Classique Souscription 2025

Welcome to the second semifinal in the Fratello Dress Watch Season contest, our bid to find the best dress watch of 2025. In today’s matchup, the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P takes on the Breguet Classique Souscription 2025. As we near the final, we see some of this year’s heavyweights going head-to-head. Both this Patek and […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: Semifinal 2 - Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P Vs. Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 to read the full article.

Driving Design: An Audi Enthusiast Finds His Place in the Watch Community Worn & Wound
Nov 13, 2025

Driving Design: An Audi Enthusiast Finds His Place in the Watch Community

Joey is a pianist, watch collector, and Volkswagen/Audi enthusiast.  Joey and I met as many watch enthusiasts do; overhearing a wrist check conversation and nudging our individual ways into it at the same time. Of course, this conversation was also at a car show, which served as the catalyst for this eventual article, and over the course of six months, a real friendship forged through timepieces and an Audi TT RS.  A San Francisco native with an eye for custom style, Joey naturally started his car journey with custom Volkswagens. “From the specific years you bought, how you lowered it, interior to the color scheme you could tell you were from San Francisco,” he says, motioning to a VW Kharmann Ghia across the sea of car enthusiasts that we stand distanced from on a warm and clear Sunday morning in September. Family and friends modified air-cooled V-Dubs, introducing him to the art of modifying cars-a topic that remains contentious among enthusiasts, some of whom prefer to keep their classic machines stock, in stark opposition to the hot rodders and lowriders of the scene.  A fleeting glance of a late-model Volkswagen Scirocco 16V in Brilliant Black kickstarted Joey’s personal pursuit of vehicular perfection, but his first automotive love was that car’s little brother. “I ended up going to the local dealer and bought a Mk2 big bumper Jetta GLI with the 2.0L bubble-block 16V instead”, Joey admits, showing a hint of his present self’s penchant for practical...

The Best Watch Straps For Every Budget Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 13, 2025

The Best Watch Straps For Every Budget

In every watch enthusiast's journey, there comes a day when you notice a piece that you used to wear constantly has suddenly lost some of its sparkle, and the watch that was once a constant companion has now been displaced into storage. That initial charm has been dulled by routine, and it doesn’t spark the same feeling of joy that it once had. But, before you accept that the piece has now been replaced by a shiny new favorite, there is one way to ignite the passion you once felt: try putting it on a new, fresh strap or bracelet. Here I will share with you some of the best watch strap brands out there to help shake things up. I will admit that this is quite a mundane suggestion, but we mortals crave novelty. A simple switch to a different strap can make an old, reliable piece feel suddenly new in our eyes. It can open up new ideas for what or when to wear it with, and, especially for more classic pieces, it can be an avenue to experiment with more boldness, more play with color and texture. So, today, instead of rounding up a list of watches that you might add to your collection or wish list, I’m going to break down some of the most steadfast watch strap makers on the market in an effort to help you breathe new life into a piece you already have that isn’t getting as much wrist time. We’re going to be running the gamut in terms of style, material, and design, and, hopefully, you’ll walk away from this humble article with renewed ideas on how to shake up your coll...

Lights Out: Christopher Ward Illuminates the Bel Canto Lumière SJX Watches
Christopher Ward Illuminates Nov 13, 2025

Lights Out: Christopher Ward Illuminates the Bel Canto Lumière

The Christopher Ward Bel Canto Lumière builds on the success of the original Bel Canto, which earned praise for being one of the most accessible chiming watches on the market. Its open-worked hour striker module remains the star of the show, combining a tidy architectural layout with a distinctive acoustic signature that sets it apart from anything else in its price segment. The Lumière keeps that mechanical drama intact but takes a futuristic turn with a smoked sapphire dial, luminous blue-green chapter ring, and a matching rubber strap that glows in the dark. The new execution gives the watch a distinctly modern, almost Tron-like character, yet it remains faithful to the core idea that made the Bel Canto a hit: offering a well finished, technically interesting hour striker at a reasonable price. Initial thoughts The Bel Canto made waves upon its release for being a visually dynamic hour striker at a price well below the norm for this complication. Not only cost effective, the hour striker module is neatly designed and well organised on the dial. In this respect, the Bel Canto exceeded previous attempts at making this complication affordable. In other words, it looks as good as it sounds. The last time we saw new dials for the Bel Canto, the brand went the traditional route with laser-etched guilloché and Roman numerals. This time, the Christopher Ward (CW) is going the other way, with a futuristic luminous treatment that extends to the rubber strap, encircling the wr...

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Armillary Tourbillon “Myth Nov 13, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades”

Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary Les Cabinotiers offerings include a variation on a theme with the Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades”. Having been introduced several years ago, the Armillary Tourbillon is a double-axis regulator with a bi-retrograde time display. This unique iteration is dressed entirely in yellow gold, and intricately hand engraved across all of the case surfaces. Initial thoughts The Armillary Tourbillon “Myth of the Pleiades” channels the same celestial inspiration found on the other 270th anniversary watches into mythological storytelling, blending the brand’s signature double-axis tourbillon with sculptural engraving. Still inspired by the stars, this unique piece takes its theme from the Greek myth of the Pleiades - seven sisters transformed into stars who have guided sailors for millennia. The watch is as much about artistic expression as it is about mechanics. The heavily open-worked dial exposes much of the movement beneath, showcasing the double retrograde system for the hours and minutes. The champagne-toned bridges share the same warm hue as the Cosmica Duo, while the finishing throughout is of the highest standard. The cal. 1990 inside remains as appealing as ever, with skeletonised snail cams and beautiful swirling levers for the retrograde works, all tightly packed on the right side of the dial. The blued hands point to a numbered half-circle sector, which is useful since reading the time on this “halved” fo...

Introducing: The Czapek Time Jumper - A Flying-Saucer-Shaped Half-Hunter Watch With A Spacy Optical Effect Fratello
Czapek Time Jumper - Nov 13, 2025

Introducing: The Czapek Time Jumper - A Flying-Saucer-Shaped Half-Hunter Watch With A Spacy Optical Effect

A decade after its revival, Czapek once again surprises with an intriguing creation - the Time Jumper. This is a modern interpretation of a 19th-century pocket watch crafted by François Czapek. The 40.5mm wristwatch with a half-hunter cover presents a fresh twist on traditional guilloché and partially conceals the new open-worked caliber 10.01. In celebration […] Visit Introducing: The Czapek Time Jumper - A Flying-Saucer-Shaped Half-Hunter Watch With A Spacy Optical Effect to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: With Claude Greisler Of Armin Strom Fratello
Armin Strom Nov 13, 2025

Fratello Talks: With Claude Greisler Of Armin Strom

On this week’s episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho and RJ sit down with Claude Greisler, co-founder and master watchmaker at Armin Strom. Together, they explore Claude’s journey from a young apprentice to leading one of Switzerland’s most technically inventive independent brands. The trio discusses how Armin Strom evolved from a workshop known for skeletonization to […] Visit Fratello Talks: With Claude Greisler Of Armin Strom to read the full article.

What Is A Fluted Bezel On A Watch? Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 12, 2025

What Is A Fluted Bezel On A Watch?

If you’re new to the watch-collecting hobby, you’ve undoubtedly seen or heard references to watches with fluted bezels, but what does that description actually mean? Are fluted bezels a feature of sports watches or dress watches, of watches for men or for ladies? Are they designed for practical use or purely as an aesthetic touch? As is common in the world of watches, the answers to all of these questions are not as simple as you might think.  Before getting into the fluted type in particular, let’s get really basic and review what a watch’s bezel is and what it’s for. As we explore in more detail here, a bezel is the front part of a watch’s case (often but not always ring-shaped) that frames the dial and secures the crystal. Bezels can be made of the same material as the case middle and/or the caseback, but can also be made of a different material. They can also be thin or wide; stationary or built to rotate in either one direction or both; purely decorative (i.e., set with diamonds) or utilitarian in nature (i.e., inscribed with a scale for some type of calculation). Fluting is defined as “a groove or set of grooves forming a surface decoration,” so a fluted bezel is one that features this type of grooved or ribbed texture on its top surface. Initially, as with most every element of a watch, a fluted bezel design was designed with a practical purpose in mind: the grooved surface made it easier for a watchmaker to screw the bezel tightly into the case to...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Nov 12, 2025

A Charming Tribute to the Analog Life: Introducing the Xeric Omnigraph Automatic

Somewhere, in a drawer lined with yellowed graph paper and sharpened No. 2 pencils, there’s a circular slide rule waiting to be understood. It belonged to a grandfather who spent his life chasing the elegance of equations-someone who could balance a checkbook in his head and chart a rocket’s trajectory on a napkin. For the person who inherited that drawer-and the curiosity that came with it-the new Xeric Omnigraph Automatic feels less like a watch and more like a reunion.   Before computers, before calculators, before “Hey Siri, what’s 38 times 72?”-there was the circular slide rule. It wasn’t just a tool; it was a visualization of thought, an instrument for those who found beauty in precision. Xeric’s Omnigraph takes that analog intelligence and transforms it into a timepiece where mathematics itself becomes the design language.     The post A Charming Tribute to the Analog Life: Introducing the Xeric Omnigraph Automatic appeared first on Worn & Wound.

LVMH Acquires Stake in Movement Maker La Joux-Perret SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton LVMH just announced Nov 12, 2025

LVMH Acquires Stake in Movement Maker La Joux-Perret

The world’s largest luxury group, Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH), just announced that it has taken a minority stake in Swiss movement manufacturer La Joux-Perret, an important supplier to the group’s watch brands as well as the industry at large. Owned by Citizen of Japan, La Joux-Perret also controls a few of its own brands, including Arnold & Son and Angelus, that will remain independent. The solar-powered TAG Heuer Formula 1 that relies on technology licensed from Citizen Initial thoughts LVMH’s investment in La Joux-Perret marks a logical next step in its long-term effort to consolidate movement production within the group. Such arrangements are becoming increasingly common - Hermès and Chanel, for instance, have taken similar minority stakes in movement makers Vaucher and Kenissi, respectively. LVMH, which owns TAG Heuer, Bulgari, Zenith, Hublot, and of course Louis Vuitton, had already hinted at this direction. Last year, Frédéric Arnault, son of Bernard Arnault and then the head of LVMH’s watch division, proposed expanding Zenith’s manufacture to supply movements to other group brands. That plan has been partly realised with Zenith now producing Bulgari’s Solotempo calibre. However, the idea of Zenith supplying a high-volume brand like TAG Heuer always seemed unlikely, which helps explain this latest move. La Joux-Perret’s solar technology for movements is particularly important to TAG Heuer, the most important watch brand in LVMH in terms o...

Ralph Lauren Adds a Turquoise Dial to their Western Watch Collection Worn & Wound
Piaget lots Nov 12, 2025

Ralph Lauren Adds a Turquoise Dial to their Western Watch Collection

One of the very common knock-on effects of diving deep into any hobby or enthusiast pursuit is that eventually you’ll find yourself kind of obsessed with something that most would likely perceive as a waste of energy, or not actually all that interesting. I liken it to a cinephile finding a deep appreciation for the films of Michael Bay, constantly reminding everyone that Armageddon is in fact in the Criterion Collection (and has one of the best commentary tracks ever recorded – but that’s beside the point). Sometimes I feel like all of my watch interests are deeply niche. As my taste has evolved and, dare I say, matured, it’s also gotten a little bit weirder. But one niche of a niche that I know is underappreciated by many of my peers and perhaps even derided by some are the watches of the Ralph Lauren “Fine Watchmaking” division, specifically those in the American Western Watch Collection (but I have soft spot for the ones with the bears, too). A new release from Ralph Lauren in this very collection bolsters my position, I think, that these watches are actually quite special. It’s important to start, though, with an understanding that while you’re likely to see “Polo” branded fashion watches anywhere Ralph Lauren apparel is sold, and certainly in the vitrines of big retailers at malls, and so forth, these are absolutely not what we could typically call fashion watches. The Western Watch Collection features movements made by Piaget, lots of handcraft, ...

Introducing: The Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V Fratello
Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk Nov 12, 2025

Introducing: The Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V

The C1 Jump Hour Mk V marks the return of Christopher Ward’s mechanical jump-hour complication, now housed in a 39mm stainless steel case. It comes in two variants - Noon and Dawn - each available either on a steel bracelet or a leather strap. I got a chance to play with the blue Noon version […] Visit Introducing: The Christopher Ward C1 Jump Hour Mk V to read the full article.

First Look – The new Mido Multifort TV Big Date S01E02, a Fun Take on the Retro TV Test Card Motif Monochrome
Mido Nov 12, 2025

First Look – The new Mido Multifort TV Big Date S01E02, a Fun Take on the Retro TV Test Card Motif

Mido’s TV-shaped Multifort has quietly become one of the most distinctive value propositions in the sports-chic bracket. The core model provided you with the compact square-with-rounded-corners, TV-shaped case, a big date at 12 o’clock, and a modern Powermatic-based calibre, while last year’s S01E01 Test Screen showed how playful the format could be without losing seriousness […]

Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide  - A 28-Piece Limited-Edition Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar Fratello
Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide  - Nov 12, 2025

Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide  - A 28-Piece Limited-Edition Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar

It certainly seems like 2025 is the year of anniversaries. Big names are celebrating many centuries of watchmaking, and many brands, young and old, are releasing exceptional commemorative creations. Some are intricate masterpieces that express their maker’s savoir-faire, while others represent an evolution of a historical benchmark creation. The Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide is […] Visit Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide  - A 28-Piece Limited-Edition Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar to read the full article.

Bi-Retrograde’s Back: Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide Celebrating Nov 12, 2025

Bi-Retrograde’s Back: Roger Dubuis Hommage La Placide

Celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, Roger Dubuis (RD) revisits its earliest triumph with the Hommage La Placide, a 28-piece limited edition that reimagines the brand’s signature bi-retrograde perpetual calendar. Named for the late Dubuis’ childhood Boy Scouts nickname, the Placide celebrates the classical roots of the Geneva-based manufacture while honouring the design codes that first put RD on the map three decades ago. Faithful to the originals yet refined in execution, the Placide reaffirms the brand’s ability to merge mechanical ingenuity with expressive design - a reminder that beneath its modern flamboyance lies genuine horological pedigree. Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis today is best known for its over-the-top, modern design - skeletonised movements, sharp case lines, and a visual language that often borders on the theatrical. It’s a far cry from the brand’s origins three decades ago, when Dubuis himself was focused on classical watchmaking rooted in Genevan tradition. Paying tribute to those early creations, the Placide reimagines the bi-retrograde perpetual calendar that first established the horloger genevois 30 years ago. The bi-retrograde perpetual calendar was first conceived in the late 1980s, when Dubuis collaborated with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht to develop a novel perpetual calendar mechanism featuring twin retrograde indicators for Harry Winston. It was only in 1995, upon founding his own brand, that Dubuis introduced the complication ...

Hands-on – The Lebois & Co. Heritage Chronograph Atelier “Coquille d’œuf” with a Grand Feu Enamel Dial Monochrome
Nov 11, 2025

Hands-on – The Lebois & Co. Heritage Chronograph Atelier “Coquille d’œuf” with a Grand Feu Enamel Dial

Lebois & Co. was founded in 1934, and since its revival a decade ago, the independent has been steadily building a catalogue that treats vintage codes with the utmost care. The turning point was the Heritage Chronograph, a compact, community-shaped bi-compax that gave the brand a clear design language: classical proportions, crisp typography, and useful […]

WU25 Panel: A Conversation with Bremont CEO Davide Cerrato Worn & Wound
Bremont CEO Davide Cerrato Windup Nov 11, 2025

WU25 Panel: A Conversation with Bremont CEO Davide Cerrato

Windup Watch Fair 2025 NYC might be over, but we’re still experiencing the high. One of the most popular aspects of the fair is the live panels, where industry leaders and insiders can share insights and dialogue directly with collectors and enthusiasts. There was no better way to kick off the weekend than with Bremont CEO Davide Cerrato, who graciously sat down with Worn & Wound’s Sam Amis to discuss Cerrato’s unique perspective on the industry and vision for Bremont. There is also an audience Q&A; at the end. Enjoy the full video of the interview below, or read along with the following transcript. The following conversation has been lightly edited for brevity and clarity. Sam Amis: Thanks for being here, Davide. This is going to be fun. Davide Cerrato: Thank you for inviting me. Sam Amis: Let’s start with the classic first question: what’s on your wrist today? Davide Cerrato: Today I’m wearing a very special watch that’s dear to me-a new version of the Terra Nova Jumping Hour. We launched the first version at Watches and Wonders in bronze, limited to 100 pieces. It sold out in two and a half weeks. Now we’re releasing a 904L steel version. It perfectly embodies the bold design direction Bremont is taking. Sam Amis: Love it. If you haven’t seen this watch, it’s on display upstairs. I was admiring the vertical brushing on the dial-it’s beautiful. I’m wearing a Tudor FXD, which I got when my second son was born, so it means a lot to me. I know you...

Hanhart Introduces the 417 ES Mocha Flyback Date Worn & Wound
Nov 11, 2025

Hanhart Introduces the 417 ES Mocha Flyback Date

Brown is a divisive color; get it right, and it can make whatever it adorns seem luxurious, rich, and warm. Get it wrong or pair it with a color that doesn’t go well with earth tones, and you end up with something either dull or downright ugly. Fortunately, German watchmaker Hanhart has gone the right route when designing their 417 ES Mocha Flyback date, with a naming convention and brown and silver color pairing that conjures cafes on a rainy day. Made in collaboration with the Porsche Fahrer magazine, the Mocha Flyback is actually a handsomely-masked nod to motorsport, albeit with a coffee-centric aesthetic twist. The 42mm stainless steel case measures in at 49.75mm lug-to-lug, with a smooth stainless steel bezel, and a crown at the 3 o’clock position. Flanking the crown are two pushers-one matching steel at 2 o’clock, and one in a daring HyCeram red at 4. The red pusher is the sole deviation from the moody brown and silver design, and the first indication of the Mocha Flyback’s infatuation with speeding automobiles. It’s not just for optics, either; the bright red is a hallmark of flyback watches, intended to warn pilots (or race car drivers) before they accidentally reset the stop timer. The dial is a deep mocha brown, with two subdials inset at 3 and 9 o’clock for small seconds and 30-minute counter functionality; a date window sits at 6, replacing the numeral. Around the dial is a military-esque minute track, echoing the pilot watch origin of the model....

Introducing – The Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Julie, a Unique Edition of the World’s Smallest Mechanical Planetarium Monochrome
Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Julie Nov 11, 2025

Introducing – The Christiaan van der Klaauw Planetarium Julie, a Unique Edition of the World’s Smallest Mechanical Planetarium

Any watch from Christiaan van der Klaauw that carries a planetarium is, by definition, special. Since the mid-1990s, this rare and spectacular complication has been the brand’s signature feature, conceived and calculated by Mister van der Klaauw himself. Recently, the brand, now under the guidance of Pim Koeslag, presented the fantastic Grand Planetarium Eccentric, the […]

Introducing – The All-New Moritz Grossmann Perpetual Calendar Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann Nov 11, 2025

Introducing – The All-New Moritz Grossmann Perpetual Calendar

One of the founding fathers of watchmaking in Glashütte, together with F.A. Lange, Moritz Grossmann also established the German School of Watchmaking. This important name returned in 2008, when trained watchmaker Christine Hutter founded a manufacture of classically German, high-end watches. For its 17th anniversary, the brand is about to release a first: a watch […]