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Under the hammer: 5 timepieces to keep an eye on at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIII Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Rolex Richard Mille Cartier May 6, 2021

Under the hammer: 5 timepieces to keep an eye on at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIII

The Phillips Geneva Watch Auction XIII takes place in Switzerland this weekend with 236 stellar lots for bidders and enthusiasts to get excited about. Of course, you have some head-turning pieces from the usual suspects – Patek Philippe, Rolex, Richard Mille, Cartier and more. But after combing through the auction catalogue, I wanted to highlight … ContinuedThe post Under the hammer: 5 timepieces to keep an eye on at the Phillips Geneva Watch Auction: XIII appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Andrew, Frank, Wei & RJ pick the 4 best watches under $10k, including IWC, Oris and ‘rapper’s weed’ Time+Tide
Oris May 6, 2021

VIDEO: Andrew, Frank, Wei & RJ pick the 4 best watches under $10k, including IWC, Oris and ‘rapper’s weed’

Recently, myself, Frank from Monochrome, Wei from Revolution and RJ from Fratello got together for a Zoom call that had no loftier intention than to kill our boredom for a couple of hours. The idea was to talk about the winners and losers from Watches & Wonders, the same way we’ve done in the media … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Andrew, Frank, Wei & RJ pick the 4 best watches under $10k, including IWC, Oris and ‘rapper’s weed’ appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new French Wave: 5 small watch brands setting a high bar for independents worldwide Time+Tide
Cartier May 1, 2021

The new French Wave: 5 small watch brands setting a high bar for independents worldwide

Paris, Haute Couture and summer on the French Riviera – France has elegance ingrained into its very soul. Wrist-worn style is something we are used to seeing from both Cartier and Chanel, while Hermès has evolved into a serious horological prospect – take their sporty H8-series this year. But for the more budget-conscious, there is … ContinuedThe post The new French Wave: 5 small watch brands setting a high bar for independents worldwide appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR V2-94 Full Lum SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Apr 29, 2021

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR V2-94 Full Lum

Though best known for its square, aviation-instrument watches, Bell & Ross actually offers a varied lineup of conventional, round watches that nonetheless remain military inspired, such as the BR V2-94. The brand now gives its vintage-inspired chronograph a fully luminescent makeover to create the BR V2-94 Full Lum. Initial thoughts Bell & Ross implemented the fully-luminescent dial on BR 03-92 Full Lum (which even had a luminous strap), so the dial treatment is not novel. However, it’s a first for one of the brand’s round watches. If you are a fan of the “Full Lum” concept but dislike large square watches, then the “lumed-out” BR V2-94 is right up your alley. And while its full-luminous dial is undoubtedly the watch’s biggest selling point, it isn’t a gimmick that appears merely after sundown. The BR V2-94 is eye-catching even in daylight. The luminous dial is a pale, mint green that’s akin to that in the new Breitling Premier Heritage Chronograph in steel. Furthermore, the BR V2-94 is perhaps the best-looking round watch in Bell & Ross’ current catalogue, good enough that I almost pulled the trigger on the BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze a while back. The BR V2-94 is a design that successfully fuses the brand’s military-issue heritage with a contemporary look. My only knock is the lack of luminous paint on the bezel as well as the date, which feel like odd exceptions for a “Full Lum” watch. The non-luminous date leaves a dark spot on the glowing ...

Green On Green: 5 Of The Best From Watches And Wonders 2021 By Tudor, Cartier, Zenith, IWC, And Patek Philippe Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Apr 27, 2021

Green On Green: 5 Of The Best From Watches And Wonders 2021 By Tudor, Cartier, Zenith, IWC, And Patek Philippe

The first day of Watches and Wonders 2021 highlighted that green is not a trend color anymore; it is a movement. Martin Green (perhaps unsurprisingly) has always had a particular fondness for his namesake color and thought it was good time to zoom in on five very different watches introduced during the fair that put green on center stage.

Modernising the Mad Hatter vibe of the Cartier Pasha Chronograph 41mm Time+Tide
Cartier Pasha Chronograph 41mm Apr 26, 2021

Modernising the Mad Hatter vibe of the Cartier Pasha Chronograph 41mm

To many people’s bewilderment, 2020 saw the rebirth of the Pasha de Cartier. While I happily count myself amongst the Pasha’s staunch fans, I had understood why it was originally discontinued. The styling is almost indecipherable, its origin tale lending us to believe that it was originally made in the early 1930s for the Pasha … ContinuedThe post Modernising the Mad Hatter vibe of the Cartier Pasha Chronograph 41mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: A return to elegance with the Longines Silver Arrow Time+Tide
Longines Silver Arrow Apr 26, 2021

HANDS-ON: A return to elegance with the Longines Silver Arrow

The new Longines Silver Arrow constitutes a comeback for the functional steel dress watch, a watch that in its heyday would simply be a sporty everyday timepiece. It presents a reassuring throwback to the quieter times of the 1950s, a time when even half a day at the office would mean dressing up in a … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: A return to elegance with the Longines Silver Arrow appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Las Vegas ‘prostitute’ with lion tattoo stole Rolex and Audemars Piguet watches from hotel rooms Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet watches from hotel rooms Apr 23, 2021

Las Vegas ‘prostitute’ with lion tattoo stole Rolex and Audemars Piguet watches from hotel rooms

If you happen to find yourself in Las Vegas and find yourself with an attractive young woman with a lion tattoo on her thigh, keep a close eye on your watch. That’s the early take-home from a case that will go before a Sin City court next month in which two men had luxury watches … ContinuedThe post Las Vegas ‘prostitute’ with lion tattoo stole Rolex and Audemars Piguet watches from hotel rooms appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN – THE GREEN EDITION #2: We did a list of (almost) all of the green watches of 2021 Time+Tide
Grand Seiko ContinuedThe post FRIDAY Apr 22, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN – THE GREEN EDITION #2: We did a list of (almost) all of the green watches of 2021

If you hate the colour green, it’s probably time to find another hobby. Almost every single major watch brand on the planet has released a watch with a green dial since the start of the year. It seems that the seeds that were sown in 2020 with watches like the Longines HydroConquest Khaki Green, Grand Seiko … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN – THE GREEN EDITION #2: We did a list of (almost) all of the green watches of 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breaking News: Rolex “Zenith” Daytona Platinum Discovered to Have Turquoise Stone Dial SJX Watches
Zenith Daytona Platinum Discovered Apr 21, 2021

Breaking News: Rolex “Zenith” Daytona Platinum Discovered to Have Turquoise Stone Dial

The headline lot at Sotheby’s upcoming Hong Kong watch auction, the Rolex “Zenith” Daytona in platinum is one of just five known. Already a million-dollar watch before, the Daytona just got that much more unusual with a fresh discovery: the dial is not a blue-lacquer “Stella” dial as previously believed, but it is actually turquoise mineral stone. According to Sam Hines, Sotheby’s head of watches, the discovery came about only recently when light fell on the watch just right, revealing a detail that was not obvious before: the sub-dials are of a slightly different colour and texture. So the dial and movement were removed from the platinum case for inspection. And a close look at the reverse of the dial revealed it to be mineral stone. “What appeared to be a classic ‘Stella’ dial is actually a natural hardstone turquoise dial with a lacquer coating on top,” explains Mr Hines, “The lacquer coating hides the natural grain that can normally be seen in any hardstone.” While a revelation, the mineral stone dial is an eminently logical feature. Only five platinum Daytonas with the Rolex cal. 4030 (based on the Zenith El Primero) were ever produced, reputedly at the behest of the late Patrick Heiniger, then the chief executive of Rolex. It is believed he gifted four examples to important business partners, and kept the final watch for himself. (One watch was gifted to a member of the family that owns a long-established Rolex store in Italy – we told the...

Conversations: Wilhelm Schmid of Lange on New Launches and Allocation SJX Watches
Apr 20, 2021

Conversations: Wilhelm Schmid of Lange on New Launches and Allocation

With A. Lange & Söhne having unveiled a compact line-up of new models – just three strong – at Watches & Wonders 2021, I had assumed my chat with its chief executive Wilhelm Schmid would be similarly concise. But last week’s video interview turned out to be more interesting, because we went on to discuss Lange’s strategy for distribution and allocation. Mr Schmid outlined the new models for 2021 (so far), and then detailed the tweaks to the brand’s retail strategy – in the face of overwhelming demand for certain models, and shortages due to pandemic-induced disruptions. The discussion is worth a read for a Lange aficionado, but also more broadly for anyone interested in a well-reasoned explanation of how a watch brand has to balance all of the factors involved in getting a desirable watch onto the wrist of a client. Wilhelm Schmid, working from home The interview was edited for clarity and length. SJX: Lange only introduced three models at Watches & Wonders, but they were all warmly received – I liked them myself. Tell us about how the new watches came about. Wilhelm Schmid: So for this year, we decided to go back to the core of the business, which is always the Lange 1. We launched the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar in 2013, which was a great watch, because of its two big complications. But we also realized that we were running our Langematik Perpetual Calendar since 2001, almost 20 years, well, actually 20 years this year. That was the only standal...

If you like high horology, you’ll love this cannabis watch that celebrates 4:20 right Time+Tide
Apr 19, 2021

If you like high horology, you’ll love this cannabis watch that celebrates 4:20 right

Kickstarter can be a great place to find the weird and wonderful watches of tomorrow, as new brands battle for funding on what is basically a marketplace of ideas. A new player in the watch game who just hit their funding target is MVMNT, a brand who produces a range of different products with one … ContinuedThe post If you like high horology, you’ll love this cannabis watch that celebrates 4:20 right appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull SJX Watches
Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull Apr 17, 2021

Up Close: Bell & Ross BR 01 Cyber Skull

Bell & Ross (B&R;) got its start in 1992 with no-nonsense watches – it produced watches for French military and police units like GIGN and RAID – but has since broadened its repertoire by tapping sci-fi and military concepts and applying them in a more creative manner, resulting in watches like last year’s that had a dial resembling a fighter jet’s head-up display. The BR 01 Cyber Skull draws on a theme that’s familiar to B&R;. A recurring element in B&R;’s line up for over a decade – its first skull watch arrived in 2009, well before such watches became a fad – the skull motif was inspired by military emblems, often those of airborne units. But while the theme is similar, the Cyber Skull is in many ways a culmination of the idea, having been improved technically and refined aesthetically. Best described as a sci-fi interpretation of the vanitas, the Cyber Skull has both its case and dial in black ceramic, while being powered by a proprietary movement featuring an automation that opens and closes the skull’s jaws when the movement is wound. Initial thoughts A complete package in terms of construction and technical finesse at its price point, the Cyber Skull is more accomplished than the typical B&R; watch (though it does cost more than the typical B&R;). Almost all components were developed for the watch, from the case to the dial to the movement. The Cyber Skull’s design is original, despite the skull being somewhat fashionable in watches today. Essential...

INTERVIEW: What we learnt from Nick English about Bremont’s grand plans for The Wing Time+Tide
Bremont s grand plans Apr 15, 2021

INTERVIEW: What we learnt from Nick English about Bremont’s grand plans for The Wing

Editor’s note: A few weeks after Bremont opened the doors of its impressive new watchmaking facilities, The Wing, our European editor Mike Christensen was treated to a guided tour from the British brand’s co-founder Nick English, to see what all the fuss is about. Gobsmacked, absolutely gobsmacked. It was like someone had transported me to … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: What we learnt from Nick English about Bremont’s grand plans for The Wing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A photographer explains why the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch is so great to shoot Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch Apr 14, 2021

A photographer explains why the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch is so great to shoot

Earlier this year Grand Seiko announced a watch that was an instant hit within collectors’ circles. The new Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 9SA5 Series 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 had everything you might expect from a Grand Seiko. It had a well-proportioned 40mm steel case, contained the brand-new 9SA5 automatic hi-beat movement and also featured a … ContinuedThe post A photographer explains why the Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch is so great to shoot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it? Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 58 Apr 13, 2021

Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it?

Recently I published my thoughts on the new Tudor Black Bay 58 18K in yellow gold. Tudor really surprised us all this year at Watches & Wonders, throwing their hat in the ring for the higher price tier of precious-metal watches. Personally I think the watch is stunning, but nothing is perfect. I would have … ContinuedThe post Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin delivers the dazzle of diamonds in the Égérie collection Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin delivers Apr 12, 2021

Vacheron Constantin delivers the dazzle of diamonds in the Égérie collection

The new Égérie collection from Vacheron Constantin presents the beguiling combination of Haute Horlogerie with Haute Couture. Merely seeing the photos makes me jealous of my wife, as this is something I surely cannot classify as unisex. But maybe for once, that’s a good thing. While citing inspiration from the world of high fashion, there … ContinuedThe post Vacheron Constantin delivers the dazzle of diamonds in the Égérie collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C QF Jubilee SJX Watches
Chopard Introduces Apr 10, 2021

Chopard Introduces the L.U.C QF Jubilee

Named after Chopard founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the L.U.C line is all about haute horlogerie, encompassing both complications and fine finishing. To commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier, the brand is releasing the L.U.C QF Jubilee, a doubly-certified chronometer with a steel case, offering a finely finished movement at a relatively accessible price. Initial Thoughts The L.U.C QF Jubilee is an attractive watch that straddles the line between vintage and modern design. It is 39 mm wide and a hair under 9 mm thick, making it the perfect size for a classically-styled dress watch. The vintage inspiration extends to the shape of the lugs and the proportions of the mirror-polished case – both the bezel and case back are domed and sandwich a thin case middle, giving it proportions reminiscent of watches from the first half of the 20th century. Despite being a dress watch, the QF Jubilee is surprisingly practical – the hands are filled with Super-LumiNova, as are the indices. While the sector-style design and syringe hands are vintage-inspired, the blue-on-silver colours and lume are concessions to modernity. But the best thing about the watch is the movement, which is an in-house automatic with a sophisticated construction and refined finishing. Even though the calibre is not decorated to the top grade of L.U.C finishing (those have the Poincon de Geneve), it is good enough to be better than almost all watches at this price range. The vinta...

We don’t want to sound like broken records, but Bulgari just broke another world record   Here is our top 5 from 2021 Time+Tide
Bulgari just broke another world Apr 10, 2021

We don’t want to sound like broken records, but Bulgari just broke another world record Here is our top 5 from 2021

I had to ask the question. I was live on Zoom with Fabrizio Buonamasa-Stigliani, we were encouraged to ask anything that was on our minds. So how about this elephant in the room: “Are you nervous about the year you don’t break a world record with one of your watches?” He played a straight bat, … ContinuedThe post We don’t want to sound like broken records, but Bulgari just broke another world record Here is our top 5 from 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Apr 7, 2021

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925

Met with critical and commercial acclaim at its launch  in 2018, the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight hit the sweet spot with enthusiasts who had been clamouring for a Black Bay in a trimmer and smaller case. At Watches & Wonders 2021, Tudor releases two variants of the model that are perhaps its most unusual dive watches ever: the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 in sterling silver, and the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K in solid yellow gold. Initial Thoughts Though a precious-metal case for a “tool” watch seems incongruent, it’s a familiar combination for high-end sports watches. But Tudor has done it differently, with the evocative 925 silver case a perfect match for the Fifty-Eight, which is at heart a vintage remake. The look of the Fifty-Eight 925 is pure understatement – a low-key yet striking watch that will be recognised only by those in the know. Thankfully, Tudor resisted using faux-aged Super-Luminova on the hour markers and Snowflake hands, a decision that preserves the watch’s clean look. The Fifty-Eight 925 in sterling silver And the look is clean. The bezel and dial are in taupe – a restrained grey-brown – a versatile colour that is studiedly neutral. Despite the inconspicuous colour – and specifically because of it – the watch is actually quite noticeable on the wrist. It is vaguely vintage in style, which goes with the soft, silvery colour of the case. Given both the colour and smaller case size, the Fifty-Eight 925 is perhaps the most gender neutr...

Supercollector Eric Ku responds to the 5 key 2021 Rolex releases in this candid video Time+Tide
Rolex releases Apr 7, 2021

Supercollector Eric Ku responds to the 5 key 2021 Rolex releases in this candid video

It’s crazy to think we only crossed paths with Eric Ku in January of last year, when he so kindly donated a Tiffany stamped Rolex to the Watch & Act auction.  Since then, yet another luminary in the game who had previously been a face on a screen – Hodinkee’s Talking Watches a real highlight … ContinuedThe post Supercollector Eric Ku responds to the 5 key 2021 Rolex releases in this candid video appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Introduces the Submersible Bronze Blu Abisso PAM 1074 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Apr 7, 2021

Panerai Introduces the Submersible Bronze Blu Abisso PAM 1074

Before bronze became the modish material for dive watches, Panerai got there first with the Bronzo PAM 382 in 2011. Since then, there have been multiple iterations of the Bronzo – which had a 47 mm case – with the latest being the PAM 968 introduced two years ago. At Watches & Wonders 2021, Panerai unveils a smaller, 42 mm Bronzo, the Submersible Bronze Blue Abisso PAM01074. Initial thoughts If the new Bronzo looks familiar, that’s because the bronze-and-blue guise has been done before with the Bronzo PAM 671 of 2017. But there’s a significant difference: the smaller form factor of the new PAM 1074, which is eminently more wearable at 42 mm. It’s still a sizeable watch, but by Panerai standards, the PAM 1074 is a small watch. Not only does that make it more appealing as an everyday watch, the smaller size also makes it a practical option for female watch enthusiasts. Despite the reduced size, the watch is distinctly Panerai in style. And the bronze and blue combination remains striking. The beige Super-Luminova and oxidised bronze will give the watch a well-worn look that is thematically congruent with the Submersible’s status as the brand’s “tool” watch. And though it complements the bronze case, the heavy dose of faux patina may prove divisive, especially those who prefer a clean, white lume. At US$15,900, the latest Bronzo is priced at the mid-range of Panerai’s offerings, and is fair value as far as Panerai watches go. In fact, it’s slightly ...