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Review: new Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph Deployant
Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph Dec 18, 2021

Review: new Blancpain Air Command Flyback Chronograph

The new Blancpain Air Command rides the waves of its predecessor but somehow lacks the finesse of the black dial model. Limited to 500 pieces, the 2019 model is mostly sold out if not completely sold out in stores. The new model benefits from it being a lighter and stronger material - titanium, and for those who prefer a subtler look, has a mostly matte finished case. In and of itself, the watch design is nicely executed and has a great movement behind it. And for those who prefer a blue dial over a black dial, a contemporary look over a homage, the new blue dial variant might be a better choice. But for those who prefer a more historically reminiscent timepiece, the 2019 homage would still be the leader of the pack.

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Dec 9, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic

For many, myself included, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo has been a consistent benchmark for  craftsmanship, artfulness, and bravery in watchmaking. Off the top of my head, I can’t even count how many records have been broken with these watches, including all the mind-boggling complications in wafer-thin movements that still maintain that Roman design foundation. In … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sarpaneva Introduces the Sarpaneva x Moomin SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Dec 3, 2021

Sarpaneva Introduces the Sarpaneva x Moomin

Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva had a hit on his hands with last year’s S.U.F. Helsinki x Moomin, a limited edition made to mark 75 years of the titular Swedish comic strip about trolls. Now the watchmaker is following up with the Sarpaneva x Moomin, which is seemingly identical in terms of design but actually an entirely different watch. Crucially, this is a Sarpaneva wristwatch, unlike last year’s Moomin edition, which was an S.U.F. Helsinki, a line of affordable watches spun off from Sarpaneva. Being a Sarpaneva, it is a higher end product, it has the decoration and finishing typical of Sarpaneva wristwatches, as well as the corresponding price. Initial thoughts Having enjoying a brisk sellout last year, the Moomin watch making a comeback is not a surprise. Ordinarily I don’t like repeats of the same thing, but here it’s not exactly the same thing. And in fact the new Moomin watch is tangibly superior. Sarpaneva is repeating the idea with a twist, putting the same design into a watch with better fit and finish. One obvious example of that improvement is the open-worked chapter ring around the dial, which is finished by hand with circular graining  and polished bevels. Another is the skeletonised rotor with the Sarpaneva moon “face” and solid-gold weights. While the intrinsic quality of the watch justifies the price, I would have hoped the dial motif would be different. Even though the dial is fancier with the hand-finished chapter ring, the primary moti...

Breitling Premier B15 Duograph Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Breitling Premier B15 Duograph Hands-on Dec 2, 2021

Breitling Premier B15 Duograph Hands-on Review

What we love: Split Second Complication with 100m WR- Yes please!Open caseback displaying manual winding movement Beautifully laid out dial  What we don’t love: Thickness, some may find this hard to wear under the cuff Could do without cutout numbers on the dial (2,4,8 and 10)Due to the design of the top sapphire crystal glass, cannot see the tachymeter scale properly when looking directly at the dial  Overall rating: 8.125/10 Value for money: 8/10 Wearability: 7.5/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 It’s not often you get a watch for a review and fall in love with it straight away! Well, for me this was the case with the new Breitling Premier B15 Duograph. Released a day earlier than the Watches of Wonders in 2021, Duograph is a part of the Premier heritage line. Originally released in 1943, Duograph is a spilt second complication that pays tribute to three generations of inventors – Léon, Gaston & Willy Breitling. Breitling used the term ‘Duograph’ in 1940 which refer to the complication “Chronograph Rattrappante”. Design: Breitling Duograph is offered in stainless steel or an 18K Red Gold case. The case size is 42mm with a thickness of 15.3mm and lug to lug measurement of 50mm. The variant we are reviewing today is the stainless steel model with the sunray blue dial.  Duograph had a fixed bezel and the Cambered sapphire (glareproofed both sides) acts as a bezel on its own. This Sapphire crystal top glass has a thickness of 3mm which adds to the o...

Omega Debuts the Facelifted Globemaster Annual Calendar SJX Watches
Omega Debuts Dec 1, 2021

Omega Debuts the Facelifted Globemaster Annual Calendar

Launched in 2016, Globemaster Annual Calendar has remained under-appreciated, despite the distinctive design that combines several elements from historical Omega watches – most notably the “pie pan” dial of the Constellation – and perhaps more importantly, a practical complication. Originally available in the same muted colours as the base-model Globemaster, the Annual Calendar has been refreshed with dials in striking colours and in different metals, including a striking burgundy and of course an olive green. The burgundy dial in a two-tone case Initial thoughts The Globemaster Annual Calendar is an interesting proposition. The complication is unusual – it’s the only annual calendar offered by Omega – while the design is vintage-inspired but quirky. But the Annual Calendar has been overlooked perhaps because of the brand’s wide-ranging catalogue that is packed with more famous models like the Speedmasters, and also because of its old-school case design and restrained colours. So the new trio is certainly a good addition to the line, especially since each of the new colours are striking and relatively unusual. The olive-green version immediately stands out, not only because it’s the year’s most fashionable colour, but also the fact that the shade is perfect – it’s restrained but rich. And it’s in steel, which makes it the most affordable of the variants. Most interesting in terms of aesthetics is the two-tone version. The pairing of a burgundy dia...

MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Fortitude delivers a rugged pilot’s watch for under $500 Time+Tide
Nov 29, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Fortitude delivers a rugged pilot’s watch for under $500

What is it about pilot watches that makes them so popular? Is it their historically superior legibility? Maybe it’s the incorporation of aeronautical elements into the design? Or is it that utilitarian aesthetic that speaks to everyone’s collector spirit? Whatever the reasons are, it’s impossible to not see how passionate people get about their pilot … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Fortitude delivers a rugged pilot’s watch for under $500 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGJ253 is a GMT with a lustrous black dial Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGJ253 Nov 26, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGJ253 is a GMT with a lustrous black dial

There’s very little mystery left with Grand Seiko’s design strategy, especially with their Heritage collection. Often taking direct inspiration from natural scenes that surround the famous Studio Shizukuishi, the Grand Seiko artisans manifest the beauty of the world around them into dials that breathe life into the watch. For most of us who can’t even … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGJ253 is a GMT with a lustrous black dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Nov 25, 2021

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828”

Just debuted at Dubai Watch Week, the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” is different from the usual Moser watches. A limited edition with a bronze case, the Since 1828 is styled like an aviator’s watch, with a design that draws heavily on early 20th century wristwatches. The dial is naturally smoked, as most Moser dials are, but in a subtle manner. And in a nod to its own history, the dial bears the H. Moser & Cie. logo in Cyrillic, which before the Russian Revolution was found on most of the brand’s timepieces. Initial thoughts Moser is today best known for its fume dials and Streamliner sports watch, with the Heritage line being a lesser known part of its line up. Still, the Heritage watches offer the usual Moser quality – of both innovation and finishing – in a different package. Admittedly, a bronze pilot’s watch isn’t exactly novel, but it’s atypical for Moser. And it is executed well, with a retro design that features smart details like the wire-like lugs, flat crown, and applied numerals. But perhaps the best feature is the Cyrillic logo on the dial, which is a minor detail but manages to give the watch a different look. And it is historically appropriate, given that the Russian Empire was once the key destination for Moser’s watches. And with a price of about US$18,000, the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” is a fair deal for a watch with a solid, attractive in-house movement along with a dial and case featuring good details. Atypically Moser The H...

Could this be the Panerai my smaller wrist has been waiting for? Time+Tide
Panerai my smaller wrist has Nov 20, 2021

Could this be the Panerai my smaller wrist has been waiting for?

Admittedly, Panerai is a brand I have stayed away from in regards to my personal collection. I like the design, heritage, and robustness of their watches. It’s really just the size that has scared me off, due to the fact I have rather small wrists. I am intimidated by the 44mm and 47mm models we … ContinuedThe post Could this be the Panerai my smaller wrist has been waiting for? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: How my Grand Seiko Sport SBGM247 truly lived up to my dreams Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Sport SBGM247 truly lived Nov 12, 2021

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: How my Grand Seiko Sport SBGM247 truly lived up to my dreams

We all have a watch brand that we love. A brand that brings something to the table we can’t ignore. Whether it be their finishing or their language of design, we’re captivated by what they’re able to create. For me, that brand has always been Grand Seiko. For years, I’ve marvelled at their movements and … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: How my Grand Seiko Sport SBGM247 truly lived up to my dreams appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Available in the Shop: Two takes on the sporty Cartier Santos Revolution
Cartier Santos It’s no secret Nov 10, 2021

Available in the Shop: Two takes on the sporty Cartier Santos

It’s no secret that integrated bracelets are hot property, and one of the greatest integrated designs is the sporty Cartier Santos. We dive into the story behind the watch that practically defines sports chic, the brainchild of the legendary Dominique Perrin. This sporty design is now over 40 years old, but it’s still relevant, as major updates in 2018, along with our latest Watchfinder examples, show.

Introducing the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X Revolution
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X Nov 9, 2021

Introducing the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X

Thirty years after the last Countach left its factory, Lamborghini announced a 21-century environment-conscious remake in August this year: the Lamborghini Countach LPI 800-4 hybrid. A perfect complement to this insane piece of engineering and design is the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Countach DT/X, the latest creation from the manufacture’s partnership with Lamborghini Squadra Corse.

EDITOR’S PICK: Five wacky Day-Dates that show why it’s the most interesting Rolex model Time+Tide
Rolex model EDITOR’S NOTE Don’t Nov 7, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: Five wacky Day-Dates that show why it’s the most interesting Rolex model

EDITOR’S NOTE: Don’t mess with a classic? We reckon that can be rather unimaginative advice. Iconic watches often earn their status because the bones of their design are stronger enough to absorb a fair amount of experimentation without compromising their identity.  And, as this story proves, the Rolex Day-Date is a text-book example. The Rolex … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Five wacky Day-Dates that show why it’s the most interesting Rolex model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Unimatic U3-FFF is a distinctive bargain of a dive watch that proves less is more Time+Tide
Unimatic Nov 6, 2021

A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Unimatic U3-FFF is a distinctive bargain of a dive watch that proves less is more

In today’s watch world, Unimatic are punching above their weight. Founded in 2015 by two Italian industrial design students, this relatively new company has established a clean and unique core style in an environment flooded with start-ups and Kickstarter watches. Often the key to good design (and indeed writing) is to edit down.  Just because you … ContinuedThe post A WEEK ON THE WRIST: The Unimatic U3-FFF is a distinctive bargain of a dive watch that proves less is more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm Nov 5, 2021

HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm

They say that fashion trends move in cycles, but when a design remains attractive for over a century, you’ve got to admit that it goes beyond mere stylistic whims. The Vacheron Constaintin Historiques American 1921 is unashamedly a period piece, but that’s not to say it belongs to a bygone era. It might look strange … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 36.5mm appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Is the Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 42 the new value rival of the Rolex Datejust? Time+Tide
Rolex Datejust? Nomos are known Nov 3, 2021

Is the Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 42 the new value rival of the Rolex Datejust?

Nomos are known for their distinctive Bauhaus designs that are immediately distinguishable from across a crowded room. When the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik 42 made its way into my feed, however, I immediately clocked its new bracelet and was confounded by what I saw (in a good way). Nomos, with their new bracelet design, has … ContinuedThe post Is the Nomos Glashütte Club Sport Neomatik 42 the new value rival of the Rolex Datejust? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Our Predictions In The Challenge Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève: This Most Affordable Of GPHG Categories Has Something For Everyone Quill & Pad
Furlan Marri Nov 2, 2021

Our Predictions In The Challenge Category Of The 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève: This Most Affordable Of GPHG Categories Has Something For Everyone

Petite Aiguille is a fun Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève category with a diverse set of contestants offered at a retail price equal to or under 3,500 Swiss francs. These include rising stars anOrdain, Furlan Marri, and independent specialist Massena Lab. Oris is also present here with the chic Divers Sixty-Five Cotton Candy, and Doxa represents the affordable diver corner with a SUB 200 model. Last but not least, there is Ciga Design’s interesting Blue Planet.

INTRODUCING: The REISER Alpen Skeleton is an integrated bracelet watch with a fresh twist Time+Tide
Nov 2, 2021

INTRODUCING: The REISER Alpen Skeleton is an integrated bracelet watch with a fresh twist

With a watch as visually complex as the REISER Alpen Skeleton, it’s always hard to know where to begin, but perhaps the most unique aspect of its design is the signature Alpen case profile. Although the hexagonal case shape may be more than a touch familiar to most watch enthusiasts, there’s a lot more to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The REISER Alpen Skeleton is an integrated bracelet watch with a fresh twist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.