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Stella Dial Rolex

1970s-80s lacquered colour dials for Rolex Day-Date; red / turquoise / salmon / lavender. Auction range $200k-$1M+.
Toledano & Chan Introduces the Breutalist, a Limited Edition for the Horology Club Worn & Wound
Jul 20, 2026

Toledano & Chan Introduces the Breutalist, a Limited Edition for the Horology Club

We’re about half a year removed from the release of Toledano & Chan’s b/1.3r, certainly the brand’s most ambitious release to date with a solid gold dial, subtly updated case construction, and their first “Swiss Made” designation. They’ve followed up that launch with their first collaboration with The Horologly Club, the Hong Kong based watch collecting community (which actually has members all over the world, including T&C; cofounder Alfred Chan), just announced this morning. The new limited edition, which they’ve called the Breutalist, takes on a familiar form with some very specific design codes that fans of the brand will likely welcome. The distinctive shape of Toledano & Chan’s watches have taken inspiration from the former Whitney Museum building, designed by Marcel Breuer, from the very beginning. The building is considered a masterpiece of Brutalism, an architectural discipline often cited as inspiration by watch designers, but rarely actually “getting it” in the way Toledano & Chan does (they ship their watches in concrete presentation boxes, which puts them miles ahead of other so-called Brutalist brands, in my opinion). The design of the iconic windows in that building, specifically, is what lends T&C;’s watches their distinctive, asymmetrical shape, and informs the shape of the crystal, which has become a T&C; calling card.  The idea behind the Breutalist is to be far more straightforward and literal in what it takes from Brutalism and Breu...

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DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler Takes the Adventure Icon into Titanium WatchRider
Doxa SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Jul 20, 2026

DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler Takes the Adventure Icon into Titanium

DOXA has returned to the world of novelist, explorer and shipwreck hunter Clive Cussler with its lightest tribute yet. Released on July 15—the day Cussler would have turned 95—the SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler is limited to 300 pieces and recasts the original 1967 SUB 300 in Grade 5 titanium. DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler. Image: WatchRider. A titanium dial with hidden history The most unusual detail is not the metal case but the dial. DOXA constructs it from two superimposed Grade 5 titanium plates. The upper plate is laser-cut, creating a layered relief, while the sandblasted finish gives the grey surface an appropriately industrial character. Black lacquered hands preserve contrast and the oversized orange minute hand supplies the familiar DOXA signal colour. The dual-plane titanium dial and two-scale bezel. Image: DOXA. The date disc and the numerals 15, 7 and 31 appear in orange, spelling out Cussler’s birth date: July 15, 1931. The unidirectional bezel is equally busy for a reason. Its polished outer scale shows DOXA’s no-decompression depths in orange, while the brushed inner track carries a conventional 60-minute scale in black. DOXA SUB 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler. Image: DOXA. Familiar SUB 300 proportions, less weight The cushion-shaped case measures 42.5 mm across, 45 mm lug-to-lug and 13.4 mm thick. Grade 5 titanium is used for the case, bezel, screw-down crown and screw-down caseback, while an anti-reflective glass-box sapphire crystal preserves the domed profi...

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Oris Artelier Calibre 113: The 10-Day Powerhouse Built for Business WatchRider
Oris Artelier Calibre 113 Jul 19, 2026

Oris Artelier Calibre 113: The 10-Day Powerhouse Built for Business

When most people hear the name Oris, their minds immediately jump to rugged dive watches like the Aquis or the vintage inspired Divers Sixty-Five. But if you only look at their sports watches, you are missing out on some serious mechanical flexing. Enter the Oris Artelier Calibre 113, a watch that proves this independent Swiss brand knows exactly how to build a highly complex, executive-level timepiece without losing its pragmatic edge. The Dial: A Masterclass in Organized Chaos Packing this much information onto a watch dial is risky. But Oris managed to keep the Artelier Calibre 113 remarkably elegant and legible. If you look at the outer perimeter of the dial, you will see the months of the year paired with weeks numbered 1 through 52. The use of varied textures, like a smooth outer ring for the calendar and a recessed finish for the sub dials, creates depth and prevents the watch from feeling overly busy. Calibre 113 The real star of the show is hidden right inside the name: Calibre 113. This is an in-house, hand-wound movement engineered by Oris that solves one of the biggest annoyances of manual watches, constantly running out of juice. Thanks to a massive, single oversized mainspring barrel, the Calibre 113 packs an astounding 10 day (240 hour) power reserve. Final Thoughts The Oris Artelier Calibre 113 is a testament to what independent watchmaking can achieve when it prioritizes practical utility over sheer tradition. By combining an ultra-long power reserve wi...

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Citizen Imperial Battle AW1857-57W Brings the Dark Side to Eco-Drive WatchRider
Citizen Imperial Battle AW1857-57W Brings Jul 18, 2026

Citizen Imperial Battle AW1857-57W Brings the Dark Side to Eco-Drive

Officially known as the Citizen Imperial Battle AW1857-57W, the latest Star Wars collaboration goes straight for the franchise’s most recognizable hardware. The red-and-black metal dial uses original embossed artwork to turn the Death Star into a richly textured backdrop, while a swarm of TIE Fighters appears to fly above it. An applied Galactic Empire crest occupies 12 o’clock, and the date window sits at 3 o’clock without trying to compete with the miniature space battle. Citizen Imperial Battle AW1857-57W. Death Star detail, wearable hardware Citizen did not stop at decorating the dial. The angular, hexagonal 42 mm stainless-steel case is finished in dark gray ion plating and shaped to recall the six-sided solar panels of a TIE Fighter. A matching ion-plated steel bracelet mixes brushed surfaces with glossy central details and closes with a fold-over clasp and twin push buttons. A ring of oversized five-minute numerals around the crystal reinforces the industrial styling, with selected markings picked out in red. The watch looks almost architectural from the front, but a relatively conventional crown and three-link bracelet keep the construction familiar. The rear view continues the theme with an engraved Imperial crest, Star Wars branding and Lucasfilm licensing. It also confirms 10-bar water resistance, equivalent to 100 metres. A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the elaborate dial, giving the watch specifications suited to regular wear rather than di...

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Introducing: The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II “Great White” Topper Edition [Live Pics] Hodinkee
Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II Jul 17, 2026

Introducing: The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II “Great White” Topper Edition [Live Pics]

What We Know Just when you thought it was safe to go back in the water (sorry), California-based retailer Topper Jewelers has released a limited edition take on Doxa's recently refreshed SUB 200 T.Graph II. This crispy, white-dialed variant comes fast on the heels of Doxa's own re-issue of its legendary dive chronograph. The name "Great White" obviously references the dial color, but is also a tribute to the Bay Area's notorious offshore aquatic apex predators, Carcharodon carcharias, the great white shark. To refresh your memory, the T.Graph was Doxa's first dive chronograph, originally released in 1969 with three dial color versions—Professional (orange), Sharkhunter (black), and Searambler (silver). Horological historians tend to agree that only 300 of each color were made, making it a rare and coveted watch for vintage collectors and Doxaphiles. While a limited-edition version was released back in 2017, including a solid-gold variant, Doxa finally rewarded fans last month with the non-limited T.Graph II. This new evolution is a faithful interpretation, but updated with a slimmer case, automatic movement, and a new (for the chronograph) colorway—the Caribbean (blue). Now, in limited numbers, comes the further-evolved "Great White" from Doxa retailer Topper, based in Burlingame, California. This isn't Topper's first foray into Doxa limited editions. Two years ago, the company collaborated with the Swiss brand on a "Great White" SUB 300 that sported a pearly white dia...

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Roger Dubuis Reimagines the Excalibur as Samurai Art SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Reimagines Jul 17, 2026

Roger Dubuis Reimagines the Excalibur as Samurai Art

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur “The Kabuto Legacy” transforms the brand’s monumental Excalibur case into a showcase for Japanese history and miniature craftsmanship. Thematically similar to the the Knights of the Round Table (KRT) collection, the samurai-inspired dial centres around a contemporary interpretation of an Edo-period castle with 12 individually hand-engraved pink gold kabuto, each based on the distinctive helmet of a historical warrior. Initial thoughts Watches like the Excalibur Kabuto are not ‘watches’ in the typical sense, and only make sense through an artistic lens. Collectors who spend a lot of time in the spec sheets will likely come away unimpressed, but with only 28 pieces being made, the Excalibur Kabuto represents a sub-segment of haute horlogerie that treats the watch case as a miniature art gallery. While some may be indifferent to the samurai motif, the quality of work — from the hand-engraved helmets on the dial to the laser-engraved precision of the crests in the rotor — is remarkable. Furthermore, the playful minimalism of the Edo castle, which from some angles looks like an enormous faceted sapphire, is an inspired work of miniature architecture. The case is identical to that of the KRT collection. It’s 45 mm and nearly 17 mm thick — height that accommodates a sapphire crystal ring underneath the bezel. This elaborate construction helps flood the miniature sculptures with light and provides a better look at the engraving work. In...

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Nodus and Raven Collaborate on their Fourth TrailTrekker Worn & Wound
Nodus Jul 16, 2026

Nodus and Raven Collaborate on their Fourth TrailTrekker

Nodus and Raven have collaborated once again for their fourth edition of their popular TrailTrekker watch, a sporty GMT with EDC design codes. This new release is perhaps the most EDC oriented yet, with the prominent use of forged carbon fiber front and center on the dial and bezel, as well as lots of decorative lume. It also represents the first time a TrailTrekker has crossed the thousand dollar mark, but this one feels like it’s a step up in terms of its ambition, and seeing all four on the Nodus website side by side, it’s clear the two brands are building out a product line that can be taken in a number of different directions going forward.  The new TrailTrekker Carbon maintains certain core design elements that Nodus and Raven have always adhered to with these watches. The basic principle is relatively simple: it combines the Nodus Contrail’s sporty case profile with Raven’s dial design (most notably in their Trekker series) that prioritizes legibility and functionality above all else. Each TrailTrekker, including the new Carbon version, also makes use of the Miyota 9075 GMT movement, an easy to operate “true” GMT that is a genuinely great option for travel.  A huge part of the appeal of the original TrailTrekker was its unique bead blasted “Clay” colored case finishing. This new edition appears to have a similar vibe, with a gray DLC treatment over the steel case and bracelet that is just a shade or two lighter than solid black. Nodus and Raven hav...

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Swatch Debuts MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969 SJX Watches
Omega MoonSwatch Mission Jul 16, 2026

Swatch Debuts MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969

In the run-up to the 57th anniversary of mankind’s first steps on the moon, Swatch has launched the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch Mission to the Moon 1969, a watch that follows the proven MoonSwatch formula but enhances the value proposition with a substantial amount of 18k MoonShine gold. In fact, the 11 g of 18k gold contained in the dial, crown, and pushers is worth nearly twice the retail price of the watch at today’s spot price. In addition to the historical “OM” designation found at six o’clock, the dial is also engraved “Au 750” denoting its solid gold construction. Initial thoughts The anniversary of the moon landing, which took place July 21, 1969, is an annual reminder of the Omega Speedmaster’s legendary status as ‘the moon watch’. It’s an old story, but it remains a good one. The MoonSwatch leans heavily on this heritage, and the latest iteration is arguably the greatest, borrowing several aesthetic motifs from the so-called “Nixon” Speedmasters that were gifted to American astronauts and government officials — namely the gold dial and black inlay for the hands and dial markers. Substantively, the Mission to the Moon 1969 is much like any other MoonSwatch, with a plastic case that’s a dead ringer for that of the Speedmaster Professional. An ETA quartz chronograph ticks inside, and the battery — now protected by a scratch-resistant cover — is accessible from the case back. That said, the Mission to the Moon 1969 is an atypical Moon...

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Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” SJX Watches
Ming s Jul 16, 2026

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”

A. Lange & Söhne’s flagship launch for the year, so far, is the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”. It follows a familiar template, applying the desirable “Lumen” treatment to a complicated, top-of-the-line model. But unlike earlier Lumen editions, the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar is more than a mere cosmetic makeover. The unique calendar display requires a more complex dial construction, and the movement has been reworked for visual impact. Even though the concept is predictable – and predictably pricey – the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” is unexpectedly appealing. Initial thoughts This is stating the obvious, but the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen” is clearly the most appealing iteration of the most complicated Lange 1. Visually it is more striking in both light and darkness, with the new look also adding to the intricacy of the dial construction. And because Lange doesn’t do things in half measures when it comes to movements, the L225.1 inside this has been reworked by some margin to solve one of the shortcomings of the original model, a tourbillon that was barely visible. The original Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar was and still is the most complicated version of Lange’s iconic watch design. All perpetual calendar indicators were cleverly incorporated in the Lange 1’s distinctive yet sensible layout. Add to that a tourbillon visible only on the back meant there was a lot going on ins...

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The Titanium Treatment: Introducing The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler Fratello
Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Jul 15, 2026

The Titanium Treatment: Introducing The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler

Doxa is marking what would have been Clive Cussler’s 95th birthday with a new take on its most emblematic dive watch. The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler keeps the shape of the 1967 Sub 300 but features a case, crown, case back, and even the dial crafted from Grade 5 titanium. This COSC-certified chronometer […] Visit The Titanium Treatment: Introducing The Doxa Sub 300 Ti5 Clive Cussler to read the full article.

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The Ice-Cold Anti-Summer Watch: Hands-On With The Straum Frozen Metal Titanium Fratello
Straum Jul 14, 2026

The Ice-Cold Anti-Summer Watch: Hands-On With The Straum Frozen Metal Titanium

The Straum Frozen Metal Titanium adds a new dial treatment to the brand’s Jan Mayen platform. Its white perimeter gradually gives way to bright silver at the center, creating what Straum calls a reverse fumé. The result is a dial that appears to be caught right as it freezes from the outside in. This is […] Visit The Ice-Cold Anti-Summer Watch: Hands-On With The Straum Frozen Metal Titanium to read the full article.

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Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Obsidian is Volcanic Class SJX Watches
Cartier Santos-Dumont Obsidian Jul 14, 2026

Hands On: Cartier Santos-Dumont Obsidian is Volcanic Class

Amongst Cartier’s crowd favourites launched this year is a new take on its elegant aviator’s watch, now upgraded with a mesh-link bracelet. The standout is the Santos-Dumont LM Obsidian that matches the yellow gold case and bracelet with a dial that is actually volcanic glass. This sticks to the classic Santos-Dumont template with a slim case containing an even slimmer Piaget movement, but the dial gives this a distinctly different feel from the conventional versions of the model. And unusually given the dial material, this is regular production. Initial thoughts Even though the original 1904 Santos was conceived as a professional’s “tool” watch of sorts, the modern-day Santos-Dumont is undoubtedly a dress watch, but one with a little flair. The form case and screws on the bezel set it apart from the average dress watch that is usually plain. This takes the design to another level with the bracelet and obsidian dial. The bracelet is a little showy since it is entirely yellow gold, but the links are fine enough that it still feels elegant. Similarly, the dial is high contrast but arguably passes as a dress watch. The case is compact and slim, so this still passes as a dress watch, one that is both ostentatious and elegant. If anything, I would have wished it was one size larger. This, along with the other variants of the Santos-Dumont on a bracelet, is in the “LM”, or “large model”, format. At under 32 mm in diameter, the case size is reminiscent of a vint...

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Introducing - The New Speake Marin Ripples Portobello, Inspired by London’s Colourful District Monochrome
Speake-Marin Jul 13, 2026

Introducing - The New Speake Marin Ripples Portobello, Inspired by London’s Colourful District

Speake Marin introduced the Ripples in 2022, and with it, the independent brand entered the crowded luxury sports watch category with its own, slightly eccentric creation. The rounded-square La City case, the strongly textured dial, and the small seconds at 1:30 made it instantly recognisable. Infinity Date, Dune Date, Ripples Skeleton and even a full […]

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Northern Exposure: Louis Vuitton’s Escale en Alaska SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s Escale en Alaska Jul 9, 2026

Northern Exposure: Louis Vuitton’s Escale en Alaska

Louis Vuitton (LV) has taken the covers off its latest unique Escale Autour du Monde pocket watch — the Escale en Alaska is the most complicated Escale pocket watch yet, including both a minute repeater and a tourbillon along with nine dial-side animations. Initial thoughts Possibly more than any other so-called ‘fashion brand’, LV excels in creativity and world-building, which has only become more stylish, whimsical and nuanced. The Escale en Alaska exemplifies this development, and demonstrates the breadth of artistic crafts practised by La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Translating as ‘Stopovers Around the World’, the Escale Autour du Monde collection embodies the expressive flair of a leading fashion house — something many traditional watch brands simply can’t match. Following LV’s previous Escale pocket watches celebrating the beauty of Mount Fuji and the Pont-Neuf in Paris, the brand’s latest creation has looked north for inspiration, this time celebrating the desolate beauty of Alaskan glaciers and their exotic inhabitants. Arctic artistry The term ‘fashion watch’ is often used pejoratively to describe a watch with no real watchmaking value that trades solely off the fashion name, but watches like Escale en Alaska transcend this categorisation. The Escale Autour du Monde is a double-sided pocket watch with animated jacquemarts on one side and an exposed movement with an inverted hand stack on the other. The latter is unchanged from that of previous e...

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Hands-On With The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem WatchAdvice
Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Jul 7, 2026

Hands-On With The Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon Saxem

Hublot’s Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM is one of those watches that leave you in awe, combining neon sapphire brilliance with high-complication tourbillon watchmaking. What We Love The bold Yellow Neon SAXEM case completely transforms under different lighting. The skeletonised dial offers a beautifully balanced design that gives the watch real mechanical theatre. Few watches in watchmaking will command attention quite like this, especially in natural light. What We Don’t The 44mm case size wears better than expected, but it is still on the larger side. Even sapphire lovers may find the Yellow Neon SAXEM a lot to handle. A black structured strap option would let the case and dial take centre stage even more, while simultaneously reducing the overall ‘distinctive’ presence of the watch. Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8.5/10 Design: 9.0/10 Wearability: 8.0/10 Build Quality: 9.0/10 Few timepieces in the world of watchmaking can grab attention like a bright yellow-coloured watch. Now imagine adding a transparent sapphire case to the mix, and suddenly, you have something that becomes almost impossible to ignore on the wrist. That is exactly what we get with the Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Yellow Neon SAXEM. This is a watch that does not ask to be seen, but rather commands it the moment you see it. In that regard, this, in my opinion, is the kind of timepiece that perfectly encapsulates what Hublot is all about. Since the beginnin...

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A Double Shot, Please: New And Refined Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Models Fratello
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Models Jul 7, 2026

A Double Shot, Please: New And Refined Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Models

The Seiko Presage Cocktail Time is back in three new references, and the changes are subtle but significant. The new HCB001, HCB002, and HCB003 keep the familiar formula but bring a smaller 38.5mm case, new dial textures and colors, and a less prominent date display at 4:30. That may not sound like a complete overhaul, […] Visit A Double Shot, Please: New And Refined Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Models to read the full article.

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Studio Underd0g’s Second-Generation 02Series Becomes An Even More Seriously Fun Collection Fratello
Studio Underd0g s Second-Generation 02Series Becomes Jul 6, 2026

Studio Underd0g’s Second-Generation 02Series Becomes An Even More Seriously Fun Collection

Three years ago, Richard Benc and his Studio Underd0g brand released the 02Series collection. The design was based on the iconic Dirty Dozen field watches, with the addition of Studio Underd0g’s typical playful sauce, of course. That resulted in four versions, all of which shared the same layered dial construction. Except for the matte black […] Visit Studio Underd0g’s Second-Generation 02Series Becomes An Even More Seriously Fun Collection to read the full article.

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