Hodinkee
Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Watches From Geneva Watch Days 2025
With a strong set of releases from this year's Geneva Watch Days, our editors pick their favorites.
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Hodinkee
Fratello
I Found My Ultimate Dive Watch: The Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600
Rolex has always produced watches that I have gravitated towards. For a long time, though, I grappled with some of the modern baggage that the brand has taken on. Modern Rolex sports watches have a certain bling factor that turns me off. The problem is that vintage Rolex watches are either unobtainable or, if I […] Visit I Found My Ultimate Dive Watch: The Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Lug-to-Lug Explained: The Most Important Watch Sizing
Many factors go into the purchase of a new watch - from pricing to colorway to the choice of movement and materials - but perhaps none are more make-or-break for most consumers than sizing. Watches, of course, being three-dimensional objects, there are multiple areas of measurement to consider, though most watch brands tend to narrow it down to the two most basic: the diameter (or in the case of non-round watches, the dimensions) of the main case and the case’s overall thickness, i.e. how high it will rise on the wrist. However, neither of these accounts fully for how large or small the watch will wear on the wrist. For that, you will need the lug-to-lug measurement, sometimes referred to more simply as the “length,” with the diameter deemed in shorthand as the “width.” The lugs, sometimes called “horns,” are the protruding parts of the case that connect it to the bracelet or strap. The distance from the tip of the top lugs to the tip of the bottom lugs is perhaps the most important factor that affects not only how large the watch “wears” on the wrist but also how comfortable it is. (This measurement should not be confused with another occasionally listed stat, the “lug width.” The latter, which is perhaps most useful for those looking to swap out other straps or bracelets on their watch, refers to the distance between the lugs on each side of the case, i.e., the span in which the strap or bracelet fits inside them. If a watch has a lug width of...
Monochrome
News - Rolex to Release its Second Authorized Book “Oyster Perpetual Datejust - A Watch that Made History”
Exactly one year ago, Rolex, with the help of author Nicholas Foulkes and publisher Wallpaper, took us by surprise when releasing the first-ever Crown-authorised book, The History of the Oyster Perpetual Submariner Watch. While such initiatives have been done on multiple occasions by other brands, a historical book receiving the stamp of approval of Rolex […]
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Recent Watch Collaborations
Another Friday, another top 5. During and after last week’s Geneva Watch Days (GWD), we covered plenty of exciting releases here on Fratello. Some of the watches that always grab our attention during GWD are the crazy collaborations. Last year, we saw the incredible collaborative effort of Studio Underd0g and H. Moser & Cie. that […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Recent Watch Collaborations to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
What is a GMT Watch?
GMT watches, and other types of watches with useful complications for travelers, are enjoying a surge of popularity these days, with watchmakers large and small stepping up to produce travel watches with both user-friendly mechanics and attractive design, at a variety of price points. Yet, if you’re new to the watch game, you still might be a bit curious about what is a GMT watch, how to read and set them, and how one style differs from another. In this feature, we attempt to address all the pertinent questions you may want answered before purchasing a GMT or any style of watch with the ability to show multiple time zones. What is a GMT watch? GMT is the abbreviation for “Greenwich Mean Time,” the system of world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London. Established in 1884 at the International Meridian Conference, the Prime Meridian was conceived as a straight line running from the North Pole to the South Pole directly through Greenwich, serving as the point of zero degrees longitude from which 24 separate time zones divide the Earth: the Eastern Time Zone of the United States, for example, is designated as GMT -5 (i.e., five hours west of Greenwich, which is GMT 0). A GMT watch is essentially a timekeeper designed in that same utilitarian spirit, allowing its wearer to read the time in at least two time zones simultaneously. Many such watches actually use the initials “GMT” in their model names, whi...
Fratello
Stolen Watch Alert: A List Of Timepieces To Watch Out For
Unfortunately, one of our friends was robbed of several watches. Without going into detail about what happened, we will share the list of stolen watches along with their serial numbers (if known) below. This list aims to alert collectors, dealers, and private buyers so that these timepieces can be recognized if offered for sale. If […] Visit Stolen Watch Alert: A List Of Timepieces To Watch Out For to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Trade To Upgrade - Is It Possible To Trade Your Way To Your Grail Watch?
Everyone knows the story: you start with a paperclip and trade your way up to a house. Canadian blogger Kyle MacDonald made it happen in 2006 with his One Red Paperclip project. Could this principle, on a smaller scale, be applied to watches? Today on Fratello Talks, Nacho, Thomas, and RJ join to discuss the […] Visit Fratello Talks: Trade To Upgrade - Is It Possible To Trade Your Way To Your Grail Watch? to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Panerai revives a military-exclusive dive watch icon with the Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218
A nearly one-to-one revival of the coveted ref. 5218-202/A from 1993, the Panerai Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 is a reissue done right.The post Panerai revives a military-exclusive dive watch icon with the Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Behrens And Vianney Halter Team Up For The KWH Watch
I have said it before, and I will happily say it again: Behrens is one of the most exciting independent brands working today. Few companies make me lean forward in my chair when their emails pop into my inbox, but Behrens is one of them. The Shenzhen-based team has built a reputation for making watches […] Visit Behrens And Vianney Halter Team Up For The KWH Watch to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
H. Moser Updates their Flying Hours Complication and Adds a Smoked Salmon Perpetual Calendar for Geneva Watch Days
At last year’s Geneva Watch Days, H. Moser had one of the most talked about (and divisive) releases of the week, a splashy collaboration with Studio Underd0g that saw the high end and affordable indie sharing a passion fruit inspired colorway across a pair of watches, sold as a set. It generated a lot of opinions and was, for a time, one of the most buzzed about watches of the year. Moser returned to Geneva Watch Days this year with a slate of new releases that, I think, has succeeded in evading the kinds of hot takes we saw last year, while still, as always, being very “Moser.” The new Pioneer Flying Hours and Endeavour Perpetual Calendar in smoked salmon might not inspire heated opinion pieces from watch writers like yours truly, but they remain exciting in their own way in a year that’s already seen Moser push some boundaries and play with our expectations. The new reference in the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar line is about as classic Moser as it gets. This dial color was first introduced in a Streamliner back in 2023, and was an immediate hit for the way it spun the traditional idea of a “salmon” dial into a new, more contemporary context. Less rosy pink and more of a metallic rust, this salmon dial has a reserved and almost autumnal presence that really suits the Endeavour, itself a more reserved and mature segment of the Moser lineup. The case of the perpetual calendar is white gold and measures 42mm in diameter, and wears extremely well, if not razor thi...
Time+Tide
A Matter of Time Episode 05: What women really think about your watch choice on a first date…
For Episode 5, A Matter of Time co-host Eleonor was put in the hot seat to bring perspective on what women actually notice about your watch.The post A Matter of Time Episode 05: What women really think about your watch choice on a first date… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Recap - The 10 Best Watches of Geneva Watch Days
In just a couple of short years, Geneva Watch Days has grown from about 20 brands into a global powerhouse fair of 66 officially participating brands, and a lot of others in and around the city showcasing tradition, creativity and innovation in watchmaking. This year, several major brands joined in on the celebration of watches […]
Time+Tide
Geneva Watch Days 2025 Special: new releases from Bulgari, Berneron, Laurent Ferrier and more
We’re in the middle of Geneva Watch Days 2025, and brands are trying to outdo each other... Including those not even exhibiting in Geneva!The post Geneva Watch Days 2025 Special: new releases from Bulgari, Berneron, Laurent Ferrier and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Ed Jelley’s Accidental Small Business: How a 3D Printing Experiment Led to the Miniphone Ultra, an EDC Inspired Case for the Apple Watch Ultra
When does an Apple Watch go from being a watch to being something else? I’m sure, for some, the answer is something like, “As soon as you walk into an Apple Store,” but (as I’ve discussed before) the Apple Watch has, especially in its last few iterations, really come into its own. Thanks to additions like GPS and cell service, it’s even become a decent phone replacement for those days when you want to leave your phone at home. Personally, I love the freedom I feel walking out of the house for a hike or bike ride without my phone, secure in the knowledge that if someone really needs to get a hold of me, they can (that I could also theoretically call for help isn’t the worst thing either). But despite that wonderful feeling, I still don’t love wearing an Apple Watch, especially not when it so often comes at the expense of wearing one of the many other watches I’ve picked up over the years to fill that bottomless hole that exists somewhere deep inside every collector. That’s where the Miniphone Ultra comes into play. Designed by our close friend and Worn & Wound Contributing Editor, Ed Jelley, the Miniphone Ultra is a case that transforms the Apple Watch Ultra (or Ultra II) into a kind of phone replacement, freeing up your wrist space, but still giving you the flexibility to leave the phone at home. Admittedly, using one screen to limit your use of another would sound ridiculous to our great-great-grandfathers, but it’s an elegant solution to what is a ver...
Time+Tide
Hot, hectic, humid, horological: we’re on the ground for Geneva Watch Days 2025!
There's so many horological goodies on show at this year's edition of Geneva Watch Days. Here's the vibe from on the ground.The post Hot, hectic, humid, horological: we’re on the ground for Geneva Watch Days 2025! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Releases Seen During Geneva Watch Days 2025
Another Friday, another list! This week, we will follow up on last week’s article on the brands to watch during Geneva Watch Days. We have seen many great releases from various brands in this super-busy week. Some are hyper-expensive timepieces with grail potential, while others are more affordable stunners from small brands. As a result, […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Releases Seen During Geneva Watch Days 2025 to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
What is a Chronograph Watch?
Chronograph watches are among the most popular styles of timepieces: iconic models like the Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, TAG Heuer Carrera, and Breitling Navitimer, for example, have become some of the most famous and collectible watches in the modern era and have contributed to the enduring appeal of the chronograph to generations of enthusiasts. If you're new to the watch game, however, you might be wondering not only what all the buzz is about but what these watches actually do that makes them so special. Read on for a comprehensive primer on chronograph watches, from their earliest ancestors to the most ambitious, avant-garde timekeeping technology available in chronographs today. Chronograph vs. Chronometer As I explore in depth in our guide to chronometers, one of the first hurdles to clear for newcomers to watch appreciation is the clarification of two very common horological categories: Chronometer and Chronograph. Quite simply, a chronometer (from the Greek chronos, meaning time, and meter, meaning measure) is any watch or clock that keeps reliably accurate time, usually as determined by an outside independent testing agency, whereas a chronograph (from chronos and graph, i.e., to “write time”) is any watch or clock with the ability to track and record intervals of time, aka a stopwatch. The terms are not interchangeable but they are also not mutually exclusive: a watch equipped with chronograph functions can also be a chronometer if it has met a s...
Monochrome
First Look - The Lang & Heyne Hektor II, the Evolution of the Brand’s Elegant Sports Watch (Incl. Video)
A luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet from Dresden that looks like nothing else on the market, with a highly distinct personality, is how we could define the Hektor, the more casual, everyday-friendly offering by Dresden-based, high-end manufacture Lang & Heyne. The watch was first introduced in 2021 and marked a fundamental shift in […]
Worn & Wound
The Power of Community: Expanding My Watch Family at the Brew Summer Popup
Whether you’re a collector or working in the watch industry, the experience is never just about the watches themselves – it’s about the people you meet along the way and finding a sense of community. Not to sound dramatic, but when you do, it changes everything. There are so many subsets of the watch world, and discovering the people that align with you to nerd out, swap stories, and take wrist shots is what makes this hobby and this work fulfilling and, above all, fun. First off, let’s get a little personal: a lot of people both within the industry and the community may not know I’ve been working in the watch sphere for 13 years. In that time, I’ve experienced firsthand that exclusivity is an inherent and at times more problematic part of horology and that there can be barriers to feeling a part of this incredible watch world, particularly as a woman. For me, getting here – having opportunities for my voice to be heard on influential platforms like Worn & Wound that are vital to this industry and collector community – has been a slow burn. It took time for me to carve out my place in watches as a woman, as a millennial, and as a freelancer. Early on, there were a few people who became the foundation of my watch community – people who didn’t care to measure my value by the number of outlets where you could find my byline or the number of watches in my personal collection. They saw my genuine curiosity and infatuation with timepieces and my abiliti...
Teddy Baldassarre
13 Best French Watch Brands (2026)
Switzerland is the modern world’s center of watchmaking, with Germany a distant but respectable second in Europe and Japan having long staked out its own spot as the premier watch producer in Asia. Great Britain and the U.S.A., while no longer world leaders, both have a proud history of watchmaking and maintain a small but steadily growing cottage industry in the modern era. But France has its own respectable horological heritage, centered around the commune of Besançon (below), which borders Switzerland’s own heartland of watchmaking, the Vallée de Joux. France was, in fact, a home for many historically significant watchmakers and clockmakers, including Julien Cordray, Jean-Antoine Lépine, Ferdinand Berthoud, and Abraham-Louis Breguet (actually born in the Prussian principality that would become Neuchâtel, Switzerland, but renowned as a Paris-based watchmaker to French royalty). The latter three all plied their trade in workshops on Place Dauphine at the western tip of Paris' Île de la Cité in the Seine. Watchmaking was a thriving industry in France for a century, up until KIng Louis XIV’s (below) revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, which ushered in the religious persecution of Huguenot watchmakers, who fled to Switzerland to essentially establish that nation as a horological power. The French Revolution in the 18th Century, which halted the sales of luxury goods like watches in France, further eroded the country’s watch industry, and it has never ...
Fratello
Geneva Watch Days 2025: Everything You Need To Know
Geneva Watch Days returns for its sixth edition from September 4th to September 7th, 2025, continuing its rise as one of the key events on the horological calendar. Since its founding in 2020, the fair has embraced an open, decentralized approach. This came in the shadow of a disrupted Baselworld and an evolving SIHH. Instead […] Visit Geneva Watch Days 2025: Everything You Need To Know to read the full article.
Deployant
New & Reviewed: Earthen Watch Co., Summit Collection
What if we democratise ceramic watches. Enter the Earthen Watch Co.'s Summit Collection. A modern take on the Alpine Pilot Watch with ceramic case.
Time+Tide
The MoonSwatch is the best thing to happen to the watch industry in the last 10 years
No other timepiece has had the same impact inside and outside the world of watches as the collaboration between Omega and Swatch.The post The MoonSwatch is the best thing to happen to the watch industry in the last 10 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Asian Buzz at the 2025 Hong Kong Clock and Watch Fair
Some trade fairs simply showcase new products. Others illuminate entire industries, their supply chains, and market dynamics. The Hong Kong Clock and Watch Fair, opening September 2 for its 44th edition, falls squarely in the latter category.
Fratello
Watch Brands Of Yesteryear: Whatever Happened To The Heroes?
I wrote this article after hearing a 1977 punk/rock song on the radio and reading an introduction to a new watch. The song “No More Heroes” from British band The Stranglers asks, “Whatever happened to all the heroes? All the Shakespearoes?” The song was still playing in my head when I read an introductory article […] Visit Watch Brands Of Yesteryear: Whatever Happened To The Heroes? to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Windup Watch Fair Returns to NYC for Its 10th Anniversary Capstone Event
After a banner year with successful fairs in Dallas, San Francisco, and Chicago, the Windup Watch Fair is returning home to New York City for the final stop of its 10th anniversary tour. From Friday, October 17th through Sunday, October 19th, we’ll once again take over Center415 in Midtown Manhattan for what promises to be our biggest and best Windup yet. Here are the critical details: Center415 on 5th Avenue Between 37th and 38th Streets (415 Fifth Ave) Friday, October 17: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, October 18: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, October 19: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public No registration necessary Last year, more than 10,000 enthusiasts came through the doors, and this year we’re expecting even more. Over 140 brands from around the world will be on hand, showcasing watches, gear, and everyday carry essentials. From fresh independents to established names, there will be something for every collector, enthusiast, and curious passerby to discover. We’re thrilled to welcome back Bulova, Christopher Ward, Oris, and Shinola as returning Lead Sponsors-and equally excited to announce Bremont as the fifth Lead Sponsor, making their Windup debut. Other first timers to any Windup include MB & F’s M.A.D.Editions, Arken, Clemence, CIGA Design, and more. Beyond the show floor, Windup NYC is expanding its experiences like never before. The EDC Expo presented by NOMATIC returns, spotlighting innovative everyday carry alongside the watch brands. Miyota joins as our first...
Time+Tide
Fears gets ready for Geneva Watch Days 2025 with three atypical takes on its best-sellers
The Brunswick 38, Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour and the Redcliff 39.5 Date have all received fresh details such as dials and surface coatings.The post Fears gets ready for Geneva Watch Days 2025 with three atypical takes on its best-sellers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Brands To Look Out For During Geneva Watch Days 2025
Another Friday, another list! This time, we’re focusing on the brands that will be present at Geneva Watch Days 2025 next week. The event grows every year, and we have seen an increase in the number of participating brands. It’s a mixed bag of small and big ones that are active at every price level, […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Brands To Look Out For During Geneva Watch Days 2025 to read the full article.
Fratello
The Nodus Sector II Dive GMT Is The Best Affordable Traveler’s Watch
With the Contrail GMT, Nodus delivered one of my favorite affordable GMT watches that is currently available. The Los Angeles brand showed that an awesome travel watch does not have to cost more than €1,000. On top of that, the quality and level of finishing of the Contrail is nothing short of impressive. Stating that […] Visit The Nodus Sector II Dive GMT Is The Best Affordable Traveler’s Watch to read the full article.