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Time+Tide
Awake unveils a special edition Sơn Mài with a smoky yellow blood-splattered dial that the Black Mamba would be proud of.The post Awake just made the watch The Bride would wear to Kill Bill appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
A full wrist-time test of the Seiko 5 GMT and Tudor Black Bay GMT, breaking down $400 vs $4,000 in build, usability, and long-term value.
Monochrome
Lukas Pöhlmann and Josef Bresan-Rehor are two German watchmakers who met more than a decade ago while working under Marco Lang at Lang & Heyne in Dresden. They represent a new generation of artisans who combine a deep respect for traditional craft with a modern, understated aesthetic. After mastering restoration work and experimentation, they formally […]
Monochrome
Ressence is not what one would call a conventional watchmaker, and let’s hope it never will be. Since its founding in 2010, Benoît Mintiens’ Antwerp-based brand has built its catalogue and reputation by rethinking what a mechanical watch should feel like rather than what it should represent. This time, Ressence reaches out beyond its own […]
SJX Watches
Ressence has unveiled the Type 3 Marc Newson, an 80-piece limited edition that unites Marc Newson’s softly contoured, playful futurism with Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens’ long-running pursuit of a ‘dematerialised’ time display. Functionally unchanged from the standard Type 3, the MN edition introduces a colourway and set of visual cues drawn directly from the famed industrial designer’s archives, resulting in a new watch that feels instantly familiar. The Type 3 MN retains Ressence’s signature oil-filled upper chamber, which eliminates optical distortion and makes the indications appear projected onto the underside of the crystal - an effect that reads almost digital at first glance. Initial thoughts Some collaborations seem almost predestined; the partnership between Benoît Mintiens and Marc Newson is one of them. Both men share an affinity for modern minimalism and pebble-like organic forms, so their first joint project feels like an overdue meeting of minds. Benoît Mintiens and Marc Newson. Image – Ressence The Type 3 MN manages to combine the best instincts of both designers, resulting in a watch that lends an Ikepod-like lug-less case to Ressence’s signature oil-filled display. We’ll come back to the design, but one of the most impactful aspects of the Type 3 MN is its comfort on the wrist. Mr Newson is well known for his ergonomic designs; the strap he designed for Ikepod was later licensed by Apple, making it possibly the world’s most pop...
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On this channel, we review watches that are available for purchase on TeddyBaldassarre.com
Fratello
In the eyes of Benoît Mintiens, a Ressence watch should tell the time in the most user-friendly way. That’s why he came up with discs that are more intuitive to read than more conventional hands. Someone who’s also intrigued by simplicity and functionality is industrial designer Marc Newson. Known for his work in the automotive, […] Visit Introducing: The Ressence Type 3 Marc Newson - A Playful Nod To The Ikepod Megapode to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Ressence collaborates with the legendary Australian industrial designer on a highly legible take on the brand's iconic, oil-filled Type 3.The post Ressence’s Type 3 gets the Marc Newson treatment appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Earlier this week, Breguet rounded off its grandiose 250th anniversary with the unexpected launch of the Expérimentale 1 chronometer in Paris. Showcasing modern Breguet’s most impressive innovation to date - a magnetic constant-force escapement - the watch left many scratching their heads simply because the novel invention defies easy explanation. Here we explain the actual functioning of this remarkable invention, and why it represents such a significant step forward in terms of chronometry and escapement technology. The origins of the concept Before turning to the decidedly modern and futuristic Expérimentale 1, we must first take a short trip to the past and consider how the idea of using magnets in mechanical escapements first came to life. For that we must turn to the late 1930s, when Cecil Frank Clifford, Fellow of the British Horological Institute (BHI), started experimenting with oscillators maintained by magnetic rails or escape wheels. He was granted a British patent in 1954 for a variety of magnetised escape wheels paired with elastic vibrating magnetic blades. The device would operate silently and Clifford envisioned it being used for naval underwater torpedoes, so the lack of ticking would be harder to pick up by sonars. Iterations of Clifford magnetic escapements. His designs were rudimentary. The principle was that the escape wheel would be braked by a vibrating pair of magnetised blades (in several possible configurations), while simultaneously ...
Teddy Baldassarre
It’s easy to see Rolex exclusively as a sport watch brand, if even a luxury oriented one, thanks to collections that have helped to define their respective genres, such as the Submariner, the GMT-Master, the Explorer, and the Daytona. While they undoubtedly are just that, Rolex has another dimension to be discovered in more formal territory, and it’s a side we probably don’t see as often as we should, at least if their latest 1908 collection is anything to go by. Following the discontinuation of the Cellini collection in 2023, Rolex revealed its replacement in the 1908, sporting a familiar yet novel design language, and an entirely new movement in the caliber 7140. It was an immediate breath of fresh air, and a rare truly new release from the brand. [toc-section heading="Some Rolex Design History"] Rolex has more than a century’s worth of design language to draw upon, and it would do exactly that with the design of the 1908. From the shape of the case, to the details of the bezel, and even the design of the hour numerals, the 1908 feels like a love letter to the history of Rolex. As a result, it’s a design that doesn’t feel entirely formal in nature, landing in a more versatile space than you might imagine, especially in the right spec. This is a watch that feels appropriate in a wide range of uses, from dressed to the nines in a suit and tie, all the way down to t-shirt and jeans affairs, this is a truly dynamic platform. From the first oyster style cases ...
SJX Watches
A significant transition is underway at Voutilainen as Angélique Singele is appointed chief executive officer of the brand, marking an important step in its long-term succession planning. The announcement follows Dubai Watch Week, where Kari Voutilainen discussed the future of founder-led independent watchmaking and his desire to keep the enterprise - spanning Voutilainen, Comblémine, Brodbeck Guillochage, and Voutilainen & Cattin - firmly independent. With Ms Singele taking over day-to-day leadership, Mr Voutilainen plans to refocus on creation, unique pieces, and client relationships, signalling a new chapter for one of the most influential names in contemporary independent horology. In conversations, Mr Voutilainen sometimes expresses frustrations at his long days filled with administrative and management matters, which leave him less time to deal with the watchmaking he is most passionate about. Initial thoughts The timing of Ms Singele’s appointment makes a lot of sense coming shortly after Dubai Watch Week, where Mr Voutilainen was a panelist, alongside Maximilian Büsser, on the topic of succession for founder-led independent watch brands. During the discussion Mr Voutilainen revealed that this is something he’s thought about since the beginning. “I was already thinking, almost at the beginning of my career, that there are only three ways [it might end]: stop the business, sell the business, or have the family continue it.” The appointment of Ms Singel...
Video
For many years, I have brought up the debate between Rolex watches vs other luxury watch alternatives such as Omega. Today, this watch collector discussion still lives on, though perhaps it is time to consider trying...
Worn & Wound
Anyone who reads this site on a regular basis already knows that I can’t resist a Zenith Defy. I’ve long claimed the Defy collection is the great overlooked sports watch line in watchmaking, offering an unparalleled mix of creativity, robustness, and history that no large brand can compete with. It’s evident throughout the collection, even in the most run of the mill, bare bones Defys that Zenith makes. They are inherently weird when you consider the case shapes, styling, and high frequency movements. It’s no surprise, though, that as you get into the higher tiers of the Defy lineup, things get stranger and cooler, and that’s what we have here today with the new Defy Extreme Chroma Limited Editions. We return to the Defy Extreme, the most exotic take on the Defy, for the second time in less than a month. These Chroma executions are admittedly a bit less “extreme” in some ways than the lapis lazuli accented edition we told you about in November, but they’re honestly probably a little better for it. The Chroma concept is not new for Zenith – it allows them to play with color in a very specific way, using a spectrum of bright colors across a very busy dial to great effect. The Defy 21 chronograph received the Chroma treatment last, but now it’s the Extreme’s turn in two limited edition variants: a blacked out titanium as well as a lighter version in titanium and white ceramic. These watches exist, effectively, as two sides of the same coin, with the ...
Monochrome
When it comes to watch brands, Moser is something of an iconoclast. From the start, Moser took a less conventional path, often taking jabs at the watchmaking industry with the Swiss Alp watch, deriding smartwatches, and the Swiss Mad watch with its Swiss cheese case. Time has worked its way, and Moser’s preoccupations have matured […]
Fratello
The collaboration between TAG Heuer and Fragment continues with the new Carrera Chronograph × Fragment Limited Edition, bringing Hiroshi Fujiwara’s keen enthusiast’s eye to the modern Glassbox chronograph. This new release continues the ongoing connection between the streetwear brand and the Swiss watchmakers at TAG Heuer. Once again, we get a clean, monochrome iteration on […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph × Fragment Limited Edition - A New Collaborative Chronograph to read the full article.
Monochrome
Since its debut in 1992, the Master Control collection by Jaeger-LeCoultre has embodied the brand’s refined approach to timeless design and precision. The line was introduced as the first to undergo the Manufacture’s 1000-Hour Control testing, a rigorous in-house certification of accuracy and reliability applied to the complete watch, not just the movement. Decades later, […]
Time+Tide
A unique complication plus an alluring, ultra-subtle pink dial make this Parmigiani the ultimate "stealth wealth" watch.The post The new Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Arctic Rose is a masterclass in understated luxury appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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On this channel, we review watches that are available for purchase on TeddyBaldassarre.com
SJX Watches
Cavasino makes its debut with the Inaugural Tourbillon FT60, a compact flying-tourbillon wristwatch that reflects the industrial engineering background of its founder, Didier Cavasino. Before establishing his eponymous brand, Mr Cavasino spent more than a decade at Rolex working on the industrialisation of new projects, followed by a leadership role at Bulgari focused on process optimisation. That experience informs both the FT60’s ensemble execution and supports the brand’s vision, which emphasises modern manufacturing methods and traditional haute horlogerie craftsmanship in equal measure. Initial thoughts Cavasino is a new brand making its debut with a deceptively intricate flying tourbillon. An engineer by training with dual degrees from École Nationale Supérieure d’Arts et Métiers (ENSAM) and Karlsruhe Institute of Technology (KIT), founder Didier Cavasino entered the watchmaking industry through industrial engineering roles, including more than a decade at Rolex working on the industrialisation of new projects. From there, he moved on to Bulgari where he led a team of 20 people focused primarily on process optimisation and continuous improvement. This background contrasts with the bench training that is more typical among up-and-coming independent watchmakers, but it’s this industrial orientation that makes Mr Cavasino’s plan to produce and deliver 15-20 pieces per year seem quite feasible. While it’s unreasonable to expect to fully derive a new brand...
SJX Watches
Independent watchmaking continues to draw enthusiasm from collectors, particularly as a new generation of creators begins to establish its voice. New brands are springing up to cater to that demand, and one of the most interesting recent debuts is The Owl by L’Atelier Bernard, a sold-out six-piece limited edition that blends unconventional aesthetics with equally unconventional mechanics. Handcrafted in Fleurier by the young duo Bernard Van Ormelingen and Bernard Braboretz, the watch showcases now familiar elements of artisanal finishing and inverted-movement architecture, along with something rarely seen, a duplex escapement, which makes The Owl a more distinctive entry in the crowded field of emerging independents. Initial thoughts The Owl is handcrafted by a pair of young and talented watchmakers, the Bernards who gave their name to the brand. Clearly a show of their shared aesthetic sensibilities and technical chops, the Owl is meant to kickstart the independent creators’ artisanal venture in Fleurier. One of the Bernards is not new to independent watchmaking; those who closely follow independent watchmaking might remember Mr Van Ormelingen’s name from Van Bricht, a now-defunct brand for which he produced guilloche dials. The Owl is unexpected and intriguing on several fronts. Its aesthetics, mechanics, decoration, and layout seem almost at odds with one another, yet the result is a distinctly artisanal object. There is no conventional dial; instead, the watch pr...
Hodinkee
A pair of 45mm Defy Extreme models joins the Chroma line, each powered by the El Primero 9004 and produced in runs of 100 pieces.
Quill & Pad
Berneron unveils its new Quantième Annuel, a bold take on the annual calendar. Explore whether this release sets a new benchmark in watchmaking or enters the market at the wrong time amid cooling demand. A detailed look at design, mechanics, pricing, and collector appeal.
Teddy Baldassarre
Since the advent of wristwatches, the watch industry has continuously been defined by a constant drive to refine and innovate. In the modern context, we typically see that in the competition to make the thinnest watch ever, the most intricate, complicated movements, and recently, the most sophisticated complications at the most affordable price point. All of this is fine and dandy, and makes up much of the great majority of the stories your humble writer finds across her desk on any given week. But today, we’re getting into the weeds on an even more astoundingly specific side quest, possibly the most granular I’ve embarked on yet. That is, the pursuit of pushing the limits of one particular color. We’re entering the void of Vantablack – the blackest material in existence – and the few watchmakers out there that have dared to create Vantablack watch dials. [toc-section heading="What Is Vantablack?"] I’m going to prepare you up top that this article will be touching on some pretty complex science elements. Largely, that’s what makes the subject at hand so interesting. Admittedly, it is also what took me the longest time to wrap my head around. It’s been a long time since I was in any sort of science class, okay? But the short answer to the question at hand is, put simply, Vantablack is among the darkest substances on planet Earth. Vantablack is not naturally occurring and is the brainchild of the British company Surrey NanoSystems, which, as its name sugg...
Video
2.5 years of lawyers, tens of thousands of dollars, and that was just the start. Let me tell you the story of Patenting my first product.
Hodinkee
The stone dial craze shows no signs of stopping any time soon, and Baltic is throwing its hat into the ring again with new, unique colors.
Monochrome
Since 2017, the French watch brand Baltic has built its reputation on compact, retro-inspired designs with sharp detailing and accessible pricing. The Prismic collection, launched in 2024, marked a step up in refinement: a 1960s “cocktail watch” take with a complex steel-and-titanium case, crisp Dauphine hands and a slim hand-wound Swiss calibre. Later that year, […]
Monochrome
Zenith continues to evolve its high-frequency El Primero chronograph platform with two new references that combine the brand’s core technical identity with a sharper, more architectural use of colour. The Defy Extreme Chroma Limited Editions mark the next phase of the Chroma concept, introduced in 2022 with the Defy 21 Chroma and followed by the […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Discover how the TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Glassbox’ stacks up against the Zenith El Primero A384 in design, movement, and authenticity to find out which revival wins.
Fratello
It’s been a while since my last appearance on Fratello. However, those of you who have been reading for a long time may remember me as the previous photographer. For those who don’t remember me, now you know. What you may also know is that Dubai Watch Week recently closed its doors, and I was […] Visit Dubai Watch Week Highlights Through The Lens to read the full article.
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