Hodinkee
Hands-On: Dennison is Re-Revived With A Timely Emmanuel Gueit Stone-Dialed Design
And the brand is taking itself a bit less seriously this time around… in a good way.
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Hodinkee
And the brand is taking itself a bit less seriously this time around… in a good way.
Worn & Wound
I’m a pandemic-era watch enthusiast. Stuck inside along with the rest of the world, I found myself with an unusual amount of time on my hands in the spring of 2020. My interest in watches had been passing at best, reflected in my recent purchase of a quartz Citizen dress watch that, looking back, was likely the most generic version of a bland 3 handed watch available on the entire internet. It was this office-inspired watch (which I was not even allowed to wear to the now-shuttered office) that probably led YouTube’s algorithm to throw a watch review into the mix as it attempted to entertain me for hours on end. Imagine my surprise when my former coworker and Worn and Wound’s own Zach Kazan was on my screen, talking about the water resistance and case diameter of a Seiko. And just like that, I stumbled into an engaged group of local collectors that were more than happy to get a newbie like me up to speed. Sure, it felt like the world was on fire, but at least I had a new hobby and community to distract me as it burned. Stories similar to mine were playing out all over the world as a new wave of enthusiasts used an influx of time (and sometimes money) to give themselves self-curated crash courses in horology. For those of this cohort that still spend their free time reading watch blogs, it’s been a wild ride. We witnessed (and perhaps fueled) the rise of hype culture, the skyrocketing of prices, the divisive power of a plastic Speedmaster and the advent of not one...
Monochrome
Consider the current situation, with sluggish sales and a market that is being remodelled by the day with a few major players on one side and a swarm of small independent brands on the other. The trend has increased in recent years, and many enthusiasts/collectors are turning more and more towards the latter as independent […]
Monochrome
Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) embraced all facets of horology, from his gravity-defying tourbillon regulator to his neoclassical design language and legible displays. While the Reine de Naples is the go-to collection for women, last year, Breguet dipped into its Classique collection and confected two dazzling jewellery models: the Classique Tourbillon 3358. The latest interpretation in white […]
Time+Tide
Decked out in Red Bull livery colours, this limited edition marks Red Bull Racing's 20th season in Formula 1.The post TAG Heuer’s latest Formula 1 Chronograph celebrates Red Bull’s 20 years of F1 dominance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
This is a review with a difference. Why? Because it isn’t the typical watch you wear on the wrist, Hublot’s unique Arsham Droplet is a pocket watch, desk clock and wearable jewellery all in one! What We Love The totally unique shape It’s Hublot material science at its best! Its versatility as a three-in-one-piece What We Don’t You can’t wear it on your wrist It is not as practical in this day and age The crystal shape can distort the dial in places Overall Score: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability/Versatility: 8/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The Arsham Droplet is typically Hublot, even though it doesn’t look like anything else Hublot has produced. Ever. That statement sounds like an oxymoron a little, but if you know Hublot, then you’ll know that they pride themselves on creating pieces that are like no other watch brands out there. Just take a look at their watch collaborations. Orlinski, Sang Bleu, and Murakami to name a few. Or their Manufacture Pieces, like the MP-05 LaFerrari, the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System, or MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Retrograde. These are all Hublot, and while all very different, all have that distinct Hublot style, embedded with Hublot DNA at their core. One of the main reasons these are all unique is Hublot gives create reign to their designers and collaborators, to infuse as much of them into the pieces as Hublot. To me, I love this. Rather than sticking a logo on an already existing watch with a ne...
SJX Watches
Twenty-twenty four marks the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s 9R Spring Drive movement platform, an occasion the brand has chosen to mark with a range of anniversary editions including the Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary SBGC275. A large, richly detailed watch with a captivating dial, the SBGC275 is robust, interesting, and capable of nearly anything, short of fitting under a short cuff. Initial thoughts At first glance, the SBGC275 looks like just a Spring Drive chronograph with a red dial. But a closer look reveals a highly nuanced colour that changes from red to orange depending on the angle – the result of a proprietary dial coating technique. At 44.5 mm in diameter and nearly 17 mm thick, the SBGC275 is unapologetically big and bold. That said, the watch feels smaller than it is thanks to the use of titanium for the case and bracelet, and the unusually wide 23 mm lug width helps reduce the visual size. This latter dimension may limit the options for aftermarket straps, but since most owners will likely stick with the bracelet, this concern is largely academic. The watch is powered by an upgraded version of the familiar cal. 9R86 Spring Drive chronograph GMT movement, which made its debut in 2007. But eagle-eyed movement geeks will notice the SBGC275 is equipped with the fine-tuned cal. 9R96 first seen in 2017, which was also used in the Nissan GT-R 50th Anniversary edition. In many ways, the SBGC275 captures Grand Seiko’s strengths and weaknesses. The b...
SJX Watches
Omega revived the CK 2998-inspired Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” earlier in the year. More than just another remake, I am convinced the FOiS may just be the perfect Speedmaster, at least for me. The second-generation “First Omega in Space” (FOiS) sports details that will appeal to enthusiasts, including a blue-grey “soleil” dial and domed sapphire crystal that completes the vintage-inspired look. And it’s powered by the latest generation Moonwatch cal. 3861. Initial thoughts Despite being interested in watches since my sophomore year in high school, I can’t say that the Speedmaster was ever a go-to watch for me. I have had a couple of Speedies here and there, but the model was never the centre of my attention as a collector. I mostly felt the modern Speedmaster, in its many forms, is good, especially for the price point, but never perfect. Based on that experience, I didn’t expect much of the FOiS, thinking it be yet another reissue, which is why I hesitated when I got the call from the Omega boutique in Seoul. My opinion changed when I went to the boutique to try it on. I was surprised to see how appealing it looked on the wrist, especially compared to the first-generation FOiS that was too plain with a black dial that seemed flat. Others seem to share my opinion. The critical response to the new FOiS has been mostly positive, other than the familiar debate over the faux-aged lume, which some find excessive but I personally don’t mind. In fact, I ...
Worn & Wound
One of my favorite pastimes within the world of watch enthusiasm is to tell anyone who will listen that the “Leopard” Rolex Daytona is my favorite version of the storied chronograph. When the Daytona comes up in conversation (and it does, a lot) I’m always ready to share that the intricate gem and diamond set version inspired by leopard prints and favored by Nicolas Cage is my favorite example. This assertion is only half a joke – I really do admire craftsmanship inherent in these watches (which is somewhat uncommon for Rolex) but mostly I like that the watch exists as a transgressive alternative to the norm. And what better way to do that than with a watch inspired by big cats and the jungle? The new Zenith Defy Extreme Jungle, a watch which immediately made me think of my favorite Daytona, knows that there is, in fact, no better way to gently push on the expectations of the typical watch enthusiast. There’s an important distinction to be made between this new watch from Zenith and the Daytona, and that’s that the Leopard Daytona is, in every way, an outlier in the Daytona collection and for Rolex as a whole. The Zenith Defy Extreme, and the Defy line more generally, are made up almost entirely of outliers. In other words, it’s not actually that strange to see a jungle inspired Defy Extreme when we’ve already seen high concept Defys taking on various themes over the course of many years. This isn’t even the first time Zenith has played with the “jung...
Time+Tide
One of Germany's most underrated watchmakers has gone for a particularly sporty take on a GADA watch.The post Mühle-Glashütte’s new Sportivo collection aims for sophisticated sporty versatility appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Hublot and Arturo Fuente, renowned for its premium cigars, have had a fruitful partnership since 2012. Together, they have launched several watch editions and supported charitable initiatives in the Dominican Republic through the Fuente Family Foundation. Today, at the Arturo Fuente Cigar Factory, Hublot unveiled its latest collaborative piece, the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Arturo […]
Monochrome
Jacques Bianchi is a French watchmaker based in Marseille. He’s been in the business for over five decades, working with the French military and names like Jacques Cousteau. A notable piece was the JB300 diver from the 1990s, produced in a total run of 1,000 for the French Army’s combat divers. The new JB300 isn’t […]
Fratello
This year marks the 65th anniversary of the first watch officially issued to NASA. This watch, a LeCoultre, was based on an existing model (Quartermaster) but customized at NASA’s request. In this article submitted by space-watch buff (and author) Philip Corneille, you can read about this specially commissioned LeCoultre 24 Hours wristwatch. In the header […] Visit The Very First Watch For Astronauts - LeCoultre 24 Hours to read the full article.
Between the office holiday party, family get-togethers, and galavanting around town-’tis the season for leveling up your go-to timepiece for special occasions and cold weather layering. There are only so many options out there when it comes to a COSC-certified chronograph with a sweet selection of both case materials and colors. The Longines Spirit Flyback collection, with its wildly useful quick reset chrono functionality, is the perfect companion to ensure you won’t be late to any of those special events or last minute holiday sales. We managed to get our hands on three different variants and styled them for the season. The post Lookbook: Get into the Holiday Spirit with the Longines Spirit Flyback appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
Once upon a time, the name Patek Philippe was synonymous with the Calatrava, complications, old money, class, and elegance, among other things. These are aspects that still form the core of what Patek Philippe is today, but we do also live in a rapidly changing world. The brand has been immensely keen to appeal itselfRead More
Monochrome
Following the trail set by the Desert and Glacier editions, Zenith sends its Defy Extreme into the jungle to complete its trilogy of hostile environment-inspired models. The boldest, most robust and technical-looking model in the brand’s collection roars loudly with tiger stripes and lush green jungle accents. Zenith’s Defy Extreme collection, released in 2021, is the […]
SJX Watches
Time on My Hands: A Collector’s Journey in a World of Watches. By Mitch Katz. Tasfil Publishing. US$24.99 in paperback, US$10.89 for e-book Thanks to the growing popularity of watch collecting, there is no shortage of books one can find about watches. Even mainstream bookstores often have a few in stock, while specialty bookstores across the world, from Powell’s in Portland, Oregon to Tsutaya in Daikanyama, Tokyo, have entire sections devoted to watch books. But the watch publishing industry is dominated by brand books, like MB&F;: The First Fifteen Years, that celebrate a particular brand or model. Perhaps because watch collecting is still a nascent hobby, there have not been many (if any) memoirs written about watch collecting. And while Time on My Hands by Mitch Katz is highly educational at times, it succeeds most as a personal story about one man’s long journey down the rabbit hole of watch collecting. Initial thoughts As hard as it is to find a book written by a fellow collector, it’s rarer still to find one that recounts events that formed the basis of one’s own watch education. I first became aware of Mr Katz in 2008 when I joined the Purists forum, which is also where I became acquainted with SJX. When I was at university, the forum served as my nightly reading, and the wisdom I gained reading Mr Katz’s posts, and those of fellow Purists, helped me get up to speed on the many nuances of the watch industry. In Time on My Hands, Mr Katz shares the ups and...
Monochrome
Since its debut in 2021, the Tribute 1 collection – a contemporary take on the classic dress watch by Armin Strom – has expanded with a series of remarkable additions, like the Fumé and California dial series that captivated enthusiasts by blending traditional finishing techniques with Armin Strom’s modern design sensibilities. The series is taking […]
Fratello
Since visiting Armin Strom at Geneva Watch Days 2024, I’ve been keeping an eye out for the brand’s newest releases. Today, the Tribute 2 Copper Edition makes its debut, and it’s a gorgeous watch with a beautifully detailed dial and mainplate. Métiers d’Art are a popular trend, and this watch perfectly infuses them. Handcrafted dials […] Visit Hot Take: The New Armin Strom Tribute 2 Copper Edition to read the full article.
Monochrome
A new collaboration between our Dutch fellows from Fratello and independent watchmaker Czapek has just landed. Following their first and successful collaboration, which was a green take on the brand’s luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet, the Antarctique Passage de Drake, the Dutch magazine is back with its signature Viridian Green colour, but on […]
Monochrome
Taking its design cues from a 1973 forebear with a rounded square TV-shaped case, Mido’s Multifort TV Big Date was rereleased on its fiftieth birthday in 2023. A timely move, the accessibly priced Multifort TV Big Date ticks all the boxes of a luxury sports watch and provides an alternative to the over-priced and impossible-to-get […]
Quill & Pad
The Patek Philippe 5208R is exceptional, even by the perception-warping standards of a watch industry insider like Tim Mosso and here he explains why.
Deployant
BREAKING! IWC has just released a new colourway for their iconic Ingenieur 40 with a blue dial! Here's our take of it and why blue is our favorite colour.
Time+Tide
A handsome addition to IWC's Genta-inspired sports collection.The post A classic blue dial joins the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Founded by a Japanese transplant to Switzerland, Aigaki is making its debut with the impressive Direct-Impulse Tourbillon. Though relatively youthful, brand founder Takahiko Aigaki is a watchmaker of the old school who developed the watch and then makes almost all of it by hand. Produced almost entirely in Takahiko Aigaki’s own home-workshop with hand-operated tools, the Tourbillon is characterised by its hand-engraved silver dial and a finely-finished movement combining unique architecture with a proprietary escapement. Initial thoughts I’ve been following Aigaki on Instagram for several months, having become intrigued by the unusual in-line architecture of the movement, and its symmetrical direct-impulse escapement. Initially, only the movement components were shown, but even this sneak peak was enough to pique my interest. Now that the watch has been unveiled, I feel like it was worth the wait. The Tourbillon is a compact, 37 mm timepiece with a clean aesthetic and domed crystal that lends it something of a vintage feel. On its face, the appearance is simple, but the watch instantly conveys the sensation of a finely-crafted object, especially when you turn it over. But even on the front, the details of the dial give away the fact that it is hand-made. Interestingly, there is no ink or paint used on the dial. All of the dial markings and elements are hand-engraved using traditional tools; the brand name is engraved with a hand-operated pantograph. The Tourbillon is v...
In a move that should delight customers, IWC now offers a customization program for the Portugieser Chronograph. Buyers can visit a participating IWC boutique and configure a bespoke model, which can be delivered in just three weeks. Plus, new dial colors are available as part of the program. It’s nice to see a large brand […] Visit Now In IWC Boutiques: Portugieser Chronograph Customization to read the full article.
Fratello
Blancpain has been hard at work filling out its Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe collection. Earlier this year, we saw the introduction of two new ceramic Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet models. Several months later, we were treated to the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune and Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback, both in 18K […] Visit Hands-On With Three New Ceramic Blancpain Bathyscaphe Models to read the full article.
Time+Tide
An updated version of the Norwegian brand's original stellar offering, the Satellite Ground Station II offers out-of-this-world value. The post The Áigi Satellite Ground Station II is a Nordic nod to our connection with space appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
After a re-entry into the world of watch enthusiasts, the AMIDA Digitrend-the iconic 1970s Swiss 'casquette' watch and now a GPHG 2024 'Petite Aiguille' nominee-is making a comeback. Revived in two fresh versions inspired by its late-70s origins, the Amida Digitrend can now be found in silver, black and gold models.
Fratello
Circula was founded in 1955 by the grandfather of Cornelius Huber, the current owner. As a family business, the brand established itself in the German town of Pforzheim, a watchmaking hotspot that’s home to brands such as Junghans, Laco, and Stowa. Today, the brand releases a new model with a new level of quality and […] Visit Hands-On Introduction: Circula Turns A Sharp Corner With The New Facet to read the full article.
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