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Monochrome
A company that offers a wide variety of timepieces that cater to all tastes, Union Glashütte goes from bold to classic. Established initially as Uhrenfabrik Union in Glashütte in 1893 by Johannes Dürrstein, a prominent figure in the German watch industry, the brand swiftly rose to prominence in Glashütte watchmaking – until World War II […]
Worn & Wound
Thinness in a watch, real thinness, the type that requires the word “thin” to be in the name, is almost like a complication unto itself. This is not an original observation, but I think it bears repeating, especially when a watch is impressively, almost hilariously thin. The new MAEN Manhattan 39 Ultra Thin fits neatly into this category, taking every aspect of the popular 37mm version of the watch up a notch. To me it feels akin, almost, to the Lorier Hydra SIII released last year. Not because it has anything specific in common with that watch, but because it represents the manifestation of a type of watch enthusiasts have been dreaming of at an accessible price point for years. Before we get too deep into the wearing experience, let’s start with the numbers. The tale of the tape, for the MAEN 39 matters in a way I’d normally brush off. The 39mm diameter is just slightly larger than the original Manhattan. In truth, when you have the watches side by side, they look very similar. Part of this is because 2mm in this dimension is just not a whole lot of real estate on a case that’s elongated toward the bracelet sides, and part of it is a visual trick of the eye. $999 Hands-On: the MAEN 39 Ultra Thin Case Stainless steel Movement ETA 7001 Dial Green Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Integrated steel bracelet Water Resistance 10 ATM Dimensions 39 x 47.8mm Thickness 6.9mm Lug Width 24mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Yes Price $999 Where the differences be...
Hodinkee
Nitpicking nicknames for the final release of the second act of MoonSwatch.
Worn & Wound
Back in the 1950s when you were setting off for a distant land, a key piece of gear would be your trusty tool watch. Today, you’d reach for something like a Rolex Explorer II with its chunky steel case and bezel, bold handset and healthy application of lume. A Seiko SPB143 would make an excellent option on a tighter budget where other spendy gear takes priority. The point I’m trying to make is that the tool watch as we know it is today typically something big, chunky, robust, and borderline aggressive looking. The landscape for tool watches was completely different back in the 50s. If you were one of the American Navy’s Deep Freeze 1 task force and on your way to the South Pole back in 1955, the watch you would have been wearing is significantly different from the modern tool watch. That watch would have been the Nivada Grenchen Antarctic - a slim, art deco-inspired watch that was built tough, but not in the way you may think of it today. The Deep Freeze 1 task force’s mission was to establish a permanent base at the South Pole - one of the Earth’s most severe and ice-laden landscapes - and they needed to choose a timepiece that could withstand the conditions. Today we’re looking at the faithful modern recreation of the Antarctic. The 35mm case stays true to the original’s dimensions while retaining the robust construction, including anti-shock and anti-magnetic properties. Let’s take a closer look and see if the new Antarctic lives up to its vintag...
WatchAdvice
The new Rado Centrix Diamonds is that perfect all-around watch for women – a touch sporty and a touch dressy that can pair with any outfit for any occasion. What We Love The rose gold paired with the white ceramicThe ability to dress up or downThe diamonds are not too showy What We Don’t The weight (compared to other pieces worn)The stripes on the dial (initially)The movement finishing could be a little higher Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 9/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 8.5/10 So, this isn’t your typical watch review from me. I’m not the intended target for the new Rado Centrix Automatic Diamonds, which you may have seen Rado Ambassador and former Women’s World Number 1 Tennis Champion, Ash Barty sporting recently. However, my wife, Dominique on the other hand is the person who would buy and wear this particular piece. Given she already owns a Rado True Ceramic Thinline in white, which I bought for her 10 years ago, I felt she was the perfect person to test out Rado’s new Centrix Automatic Diamonds. The new Rado Centrix Automatic Diamonds So I gave it to Dominique for a week to wear as she went about her week. And as a busy Mother of our two girls, running around after them, working 3 days a week in a senior corporate job and juggling a side business as well, she had her hands full. While wearing it for the week, I asked her a range of questions about the piece on its design, how it wore and felt on the wrist. So I’ve turned her w...
Monochrome
Let’s cut to the chase. In my book, the Union Glashütte 1893 Johannes Dürrstein Edition Power Reserve takes the crown as one of the most aesthetically pleasing, if not the most attractive watch currently offered by the brand. I’ve appreciated certain pieces in the Belisar and Noramis collections, and Union Glashütte consistently demonstrates a keen […]
Monochrome
Gone are the days when dive watches truly challenged watchmakers. The Submariner and Fifty Fathoms battled it out in the 1950s, pushing for just 100 metres of water resistance. Modern tech allows microbrands to hit triple that depth today, so small watchmakers like Peren need to focus on design to really stand out. They’ve done […]
Monochrome
There are only so many square-shaped timepieces that we dare call contemporary classics. Yet, the watches in the Seventies collection from Glashütte Original, first presented by the Swatch-group-owned brand in 2011, are worthy of the title and the praise. Unfortunately, the current Seventies line-up is limited to only 11 variations of the Chronograph Panorama Date, […]
WatchAdvice
The 75th Anniversary Seamaster Professional Diver 300M “Summer Blue” may just be the perfect watch for Summer and we’ve taken it out to see if it really is. What We Love The gradient blue dialComfort factor of the rubber strapWears smaller than stats suggest What We Don’t Colourway could limit it’s versatility across the yearThis version on the bracelet, get the rubber!No display caseback on this version Overall Rating: 9/10 Value for money: 8.5/10Wearability: 9.5/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 9/10 This year marks the 75th Anniversary of the Omega Seamaster, and to celebrate, the brand released the “Summer Blue” Collection in one of the most iconic locations, Mykonos Greece. In a unique move, Omega released a Summer Blue variant of each watch in the Seamaster lineup (which you can read our coverage of here) designed to mimic the Aegean Sea, and the deeper the watch’s depth rating, the darker the blue. It’s a cool concept. The Omega 75th Anniversary Summer Blue Seamaster Collection Now it’s Summer here in Australia, it felt timely to take possibly the best-known, and most popular of the Seamster collection, the Diver 300M on rubber strap out and about to see if this is “THE” watch for the Summer. Initial Thoughts The Omega Seamaster Diver isn’t an unfamiliar watch for me. I’ve now owned two of them: an original Seamaster Diver James Bond Quartz, and then more recently, the current SMP300 with the black dial and bezel. You can read my Owners Perspe...
Monochrome
After a career in financial technology, the Festa-Bianchet couple embarked on a new entrepreneurial project driven by their passion and desire to create their own watches. As evident from their inaugural timepiece, the B 1.618 Openwork, they have specialized in crafting ultra-modern tourbillons, with the number 1.618 serving as a reference to the golden ratio, […]
Monochrome
In the vast realm of heavenly wonders, a timepiece exists tailored for every cosmic inquiry. Whether you yearn to unravel the Earth’s speed at the equator, comprehend its orbital dance around the Sun, or learn the angles at which sunrays caress your corner of the world throughout the year, rest assured. There’s a watch designed […]
Monochrome
Moritz Grossmann (a manufacturer named after the founder and director of the German School of Watchmaking) creates some of the most beautifully crafted wristwatches available today, and one of its finest offerings is the Tefnut Silver-Plated by Friction, introduced earlier this year. Like the brand’s Tremblage, Hamatic or Benu Heritage models, this watch is rich […]
Monochrome
The 1950s and 1960s have been a groundbreaking era for watches when it comes to water resistance. Although the concept of a watertight case wasn’t new at that point, technological and material advancements allowed for great strides to be made in creating waterproof watches. Names such as Submariner, Fifty Fathoms, SUB 300, Seamaster and many […]
Worn & Wound
I have long believed and said before, on this site and elsewhere, that we are living in the golden age of being a watch enthusiast. As time has passed, the quantity and quality of selection at accessible price points is remarkable. Alongside the influx of collectors are new brands catering to every taste and budget, and therein lies the challenge: how do watch companies stand out and make lasting names for themselves with tool watches in the crowded sub-thousand dollar segment? Texas-based (Dallas represent!) Jack Mason claims to have answers with two of its most prominent models, the travel-ready Strat-o-timer GMT and more recently-released Hydrotimer dive watch. A closer look and hands on provide clues to how these references can set themselves apart from one another and their competition today. Cases and Bracelets In a clever move, Jack Mason has decided to utilize the original Strat-o-timer case as the foundation for the Hydrotimer. The turtle-esque cushion style cases measure 40mm wide, 47mm lug-to-lug, and 13mm thick with screw-down crowns. Beyond the obvious economic and manufacturing benefits of sharing a case, this allows the brand to have a recognizable and consistent silhouette across its product lines. Initial impressions of the cases and bracelets are that they are substantial and are of high and obvious quality, especially for the price. In particular, the edges between the brushed and polished surfaces of the case are well-defined and well done. The toleranc...
Monochrome
Established in 1822, Bovet emerged as a prominent player in the high-end timepiece industry. Throughout the 19th century, Bovet became one of the most distinguished names in China, crafting opulent pocket watches adorned with lavish enamels and embellished with pearls. This distinctive, ornate aesthetic has transcended time and echoes in the contemporary Bovet timepieces, a […]
Worn & Wound
When it comes to deciding on a new watch, I know I think about all the usual suspects: build quality, fit and finish, movement, and most importantly (for me anyway) is the look. In my conversations with other enthusiasts, brand heritage has also come up. But what happens if you’re looking at brands who are not old enough to have years of heritage? Well, I would argue that it’s important to discern what that brand stands for – their ethos. $1185 Hands-On: the Buci “Garde-temps” Case Stainless steel Movement Soprod Newton Dial Red Lume None Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 30 meters Dimensions 38 x 46.8mm Thickness 11mm Lug Width 20mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Yes Price $1185 Buci, established in 2022 out of Paris, has a soul that is super-charged with poetry. Brand owner Nousseïma Baraket is both a poet and avid reader of poetry, on top of being filled with a love for horology. If you stop to think about it, our passion for watches is not without romance and poetry. Afterall, we willingly wear some of the smallest engine turning ecosystems in the world on our wrists, knowing full well that time is kept better on our phones and computers. We don’t need them, but our lives are enriched by their presence. At this point we all know that watches have different stories to tell. Studio Underd0g lets us know that we can have fun with our classic watch designs. Grand Seiko manages to capture the nuances of nature in their dials. Buci oversees the integrat...
Hodinkee
Refreshed for 2023 with new colors and a brand new movement.
Hodinkee
A black tri-color dial is the El Primero we never knew we always wanted.
Hodinkee
For the first time, Vacheron Constantin previewed its new "Récit de Voyages" with the press before its clients, giving us a sneak preview of the watches before they were gone.
![[Hands-On] Ming Brings Lightweight and Big Textures to Dubai Watch Week](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/11/MING_37.08_SAND_3.webp)
Worn & Wound
Ming has had a deep presence at this year’s edition of Dubai Watch Week, not just with their latest and greatest on display, but with Ming himself offering insights to his process, including creation of the ultra-lightweight LW.01, in the form of a speech given at the beginning of the show. He even found time to challenge Rexhep Rexhepi to a game of foosball in the halls of the show. At the booth, a selection of new Ming releases drew a consistent crowd throughout the week of the show, and we took the opportunity to get a hands-on look at a few of our favorites, including one of the best releases around the fair in Dubai: the 37.08 Sand. If there’s one thing that Ming has excelled at in recent years it is the delicate interplay between forms and textures, and how they can be harnessed to create a unique dial and case experience. Their skill here was on full display this year in Dubai with two watches in particular, the 37.08 Sand, and the 37.04 Rose Gold. In addition, Ming released a 29.01 Dubai worldtimer for Arabic speaking collectors. A trend we saw realized across many of the exhibiting brands at the fair. Both the 37.08 Sand and 37.04 Rose Gold feature extraordinary dial work, though in very different ways. Beginning with the 37.08 Sand, which Ming says is the first in a series of watches that will showcase deep-relief textured dials, the initial offering does not disappoint in this department. The dial depicts a somewhat ambiguous wave pattern that could be int...
Hodinkee
Honey, I shrunk the PRX.
Worn & Wound
There are relatively few brands out there that don’t need a name on the dial. Sure, you can tell apart a Submariner, Seamaster, and Aquis with all branding removed. But how about recognizing a whole brand rather than a single model? One brand that doesn’t need a name or logo on their watches, yet still remain distinctive and recognizable to many enthusiasts is ochs und junior. From displaying the date through a series of holes around the dial, through to a moon phase complication accurate to 1 day every 122 years, the brand has continued to push ingenuity in function and display while keeping steadfastly true to its design ethos. Like many others, my admiration for the brand and designs have continued to grow, yet this is the first time I’ve held one in my hands. $2300 Hands-On: the ochs und junior Settimana Seasons “Autumn” Case Titanium Movement Sellita SW200-1 Dial Light Orange Lume SuperLuminova Lens Sapphire Strap Textile Water Resistance 50 meters Dimensions 40 x 41mm Thickness 13mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $2300 The watch I’m looking at today forms part of ochs und junior’s more affordable (and non-customizable) collections. What you see offered is what you can get. There is no choice of case material. No long list of dial, hand, disc and marker combinations. For some customers this probably doesn’t represent the full ochs und junior experience. For others, like me, restricting the choices to a small selection of pre-defined...
![[Hands-On] MB&F; Reveals Horological Machine Number 11: Architecture](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/11/MBF_HM11_3.webp)
Worn & Wound
A new Horological Machine was released this week in Dubai, marking the 11th numbered edition to the series. The last HM was released in 2020, making this the longest gap between new Machines since Max Busser launched the brand with HM1 in 2007. The new HM11 is simply called Architect, a nod to the inspiration for the unconventional design, which was a particular form of mid-century habitat architecture. Like the Machines that came before it, the 11 is a conceptual wonder, with no shortage of fully bespoke elements that coalesse into something otherworldly on the wrist. What it lacks in practicality, it more than makes up for in pure creativity that pushes horological boundaries in the same way the very first one did. I’ll start off by saying that this isn’t a watch that’s easy to judge by conventional standards; none of the Horological Machines are. And that’s kind of the point. That said, they all present a surprising level of nuance and yes, even ergonomic practicality. The F, or Friends part of MB&F;, aren’t restricted to the usual bounds of mass produced timepieces, but rather work toward the shared goal of expressing an idea and design concept provided by the MB, or Max Busser part of the equation. The end result in the case of the HM11 is a watch modeled after a habitat of another time, or even another world. It tells a story, and offers a landscape of discoveries within its 42mm by 22mm frame. There is a case here, but it defies simple explanation. A flyi...
![[Hands-On] H. Moser Refines Streamliner with New Small Seconds Blue Enamel](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/11/HMoser_SSSBE_1.webp)
Worn & Wound
H. Moser made waves with their Streamliner watch when it was first released in 2020 thanks to the unconventional case and integrated bracelet design. In a market flooded with integrated bracelet sport watches, the Streamliner somehow manages to stand apart with its scale-like bracelet. It’s a watch we’ve taken a closer look at here, and here. This year, the Streamliner takes a new form in a move toward a more wearable experience in the form of the Small Seconds Blue Enamel. The result is a 39mm watch with a revised case and bracelet design that remains true to the original DNA while being far more wrist-friendly in the process. The Streamliner has always been defined by its bracelet, with the cushion case transitioning to a dial with largely minimal takes on complications from perpetual calendars to chronographs. The newest addition adjusts the proportions of everything just enough to make a tangible difference on the wrist, without compromising the impact of the shapes and forms at work. In fact, the bracelet is in peak form with this release, combining the dramatic architecture with a silky taper that works incredibly well in practice. What’s more, the tweaks reduce some of the tension between the shoulder of the case and bracelet integration, making for an overall more graceful appearance. That said, if you were never a fan of the Streamliner, this new example isn’t likely to change that. This is still a Streamliner through and through, and fans of the watch l...
Hodinkee
It's a Middle East-twist on the microbrand-meets-vintage format that I immediately fell in love with.
![[Hands-On] Zenith and Time & Tide Prove that Sequels Can Work with New Skyline Collaboration](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/11/Zenith_TimeTide_7.webp)
Worn & Wound
Zenith has teamed up with our friends at Time & Tide for a second time to release a new Defy Skyline dubbed the Night Surfer 2. The theme began with the Defy Classic in the original Night Surfer released in 2021, playing with black and blue tones around the openworked dial and case. The Defy Skyline Skeleton replaces the outgoing Classic, a move we may not be entirely comfortable with just yet, but the Night Surfer colorway works equally well here with the redesigned dial and frantic running seconds hand at 6 o’clock. This is a watch we’ve looked at in-depth in both its closed dial, and open dial forms, and this might be the biggest personality we’ve seen from this watch to date. Night Surfer 1 at right, Night Surfer 2 at left We see plenty of blue dials in the watch world and I’d count this as one of the more interesting executions. Like the original, the new four-pointed star structure that comprises the center of the dial is treated to a dynamic application of blue that is darker toward the top, and lighter toward the bottom, with the center of the bridge structure bifurcated by a white line creating a sharp contrast to the deep blues underneath. It’s a visually striking dial as a whole that’s framed by the uniformly finished matte titanium case and bracelet. The 41mm case is angular, without a curve in sight. It’s aggressive in a way, but the dark finish it’s received here means it doesn’t interfere with the dial. It’s the same story with the brac...
Worn & Wound
Oris expands their ProPilot X collection this week at the Dubai Watch Week event, with the introduction of the ProPilot X Laser. The watch continues with the theme of the ProPilot X, bringing the same trim titanium case and bracelet to the party, but this time mated to a very different dial experience than we’ve seen before in this collection. There are big changes and some smaller ones that we appreciate seeing here, as this represents the biggest departure from the standard trio introduced last year. Oris has never been afraid to wade into experimental waters with their dials, and this ProPilot X continues that trend in a new way. The latest ProPilot X is called Laser thanks to the technique used to create its dial, a method which Oris claims has not been applied in watchmaking before. Oris enlisted the help of a research lab affiliated to the prestigious ETH Zürich university to bring the concept to life. The result is something bordering ethereal in person, with a constantly changing palette of colors rendered in the unique texture. The iridescent effect is quite powerful and Oris has demonstrated a deft hand in making sure it’s the focal point of this watch. We’ve been spoiled by some truly amazing dial creations in recent years from the likes of Grand Seiko, Czapek, Arcanaut, and yes, even Oris. My first thought upon seeing a truly compelling dial is to how it fits in with the rest of the watch. For instance, the Arcanaut Arc II Fordite boasts a unique color...
Hodinkee
Drawing on Büsser's love of 1960s design, the new watch has more rooms than a New York City apartment and is one of the most fascinating MB&F; designs yet.
Deployant
MB&F; adds to their Horological Machine collection with the new HM11 "Architect", and introducing their 21st caliber, inspired by architecture of the 1960s.
Hodinkee
Less than 10 Film Compax examples are known; this week, another one appears.
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