Hands-On: The New Baltic Hermétique Tourer Is A Late Entry For One Of The Year's Best Affordable Watches
Baltic's newest watch kicks off a new line from the brand and does it with a bang.
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Baltic's newest watch kicks off a new line from the brand and does it with a bang.
SJX Watches
In an unexpected movement, Louis Vuitton and Akrivia have just announced the Louis Vuitton x Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie. Reflecting the collaborative nature of the watch, it has two faces – the tinted sapphire dial for the time and a fired enamel dial on the back for the chronograph. The LVRR-01 also boasts an unusual combination of complications: a chronograph with a chiming mechanism that strikes once every elapsed minute, along with a five-minute tourbillon – and a constant-force gear train. [NB: The watch pictured is one of two prototypes so the finishing, particularly the cleanliness of the movement, is not up to par.] Technically-minded enthusiasts will appreciate the sophistication of the movement, since the chronograph and sonnerie are driven by secondary barrel and going train that is effectively a one-minute constant force mechanism. Limited to 10 watches, the LVRR-01 is the first of a series of five collaborative projects between Louis Vuitton and independent watchmakers. The next project will be revealed in a year’s time, with the subsequent projects following the same annual timetable. Initial thoughts The LVRR-01 has the heft and gleam of a finely made watch. The chamfered edges on the platinum case immediately catch the eye, particularly because of the contrast with the brushed surfaces, and then the movement finishing becomes apparent through sapphire crystal. In fact, the smoked sapphire crystal perhaps obscures too much of the...
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Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Seiko 5 Sports 6119-6400 Day Date Starting off this week with a sweet vintage Seiko 5 Sports diver. This one is really cool, with a round, UFO style steel case that has a simple black external bezel but an internal rotating elapsed time bezel. The black dial is clean with lume filled steel baton hour markers. The correct crown is recessed at 4 o’clock which gives it a clean look. The Hardlex crystal has some scratches, but you can find replacements with a little eBay searching. These models are usually beaten to a pulp, but this one is about as clean as you’ll find. The bracelet isn’t original unfortunately, but the watch is still on point. View auction here. Vintage Bulova Here we have a gorgeous vintage Bulova dress watch. This beauty is from 1950, and the fancy “knotted” lugs are the hero for sure. The 29mm case is in pretty good shape, with little wearthrough on the 10k gold plate case. The two-tone silver dial looks to be original and has only a light, even patina which looks fantastic. Gold dauphine hands round out the look. The Bulova caliber 10BC manual wind movement is clean and the seller states it runs well. Really an amazing and stylish Mid-Century Mod Bulova dre...
Worn & Wound
Something I think about quite a bit in this hobby is the idea that the watches we wear are often just part of a costume that we’re presenting to the outside world. They exist as aspirational symbols of what we’d like our life to be. There’s a cosplay aspect to wearing certain watches that I’m never quite able to shake, even watches I love. I wear, on most days, either a pilot’s watch or a diver, and I don’t fly a plane and I don’t even really like to swim. I wear these watches because I genuinely enjoy them as watches, but I’d be lying if a small part of me didn’t feel like a pretender, a guy asking himself who he thinks he’s kidding with this super tactical pilot’s instrument strapped to his wrist. I’ve never felt that feeling more acutely than in my time with the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Automatic in rose gold. This watch, let’s just say, is not in my normal wheelhouse. While I appreciate it aesthetically (in fact, I find it quite beautiful) it’s not the kind of thing I’d choose to wear. But more than that, this watch is part of a micro-genre of watches that is very specific, one that I’m fascinated by, but am personally so far removed from, I am legitimately probably closer to the pilot walking into the US Navy Strike Fighter Tactics Instructor program than I am the dude who this watch was made for. The Tonda PF Sport Auto is part of a class of watches I think of as “leisure sport,” with a heavy emphasis on the leisure. Th...
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SJX Watches
The latest release from Scottish microbrand anOrdain continues its run of interesting enamel dials. The Model 3 Method combines a stamped silver dial covered with translucent enamel to create a deep, textured finish similar to that of flinqué enamel. Created in collaboration with Method Studio, a Scottish woodworking studio, the pattern resembles a wooden block that has been artistically chiselled away. Initial thoughts This is not the first time anOrdain has used a textured silver dial base covered in translucent enamel. We have seen it before in the Model 1 Fumé, which boasted a hand hammered finish. In the new Model 3 the indentations are far more pronounced, giving a more dramatic look. I have been a fan of the Glasgow-based brand for a while now, and its willingness to try new things arguably shows a mindset that is lacking in the wider industry. While nothing technically new has been done here, the combination of a woodworking texture and technique, with the miniature canvas of a watch dial has given us this brilliant look that sits perfectly within the anOrdain aesthetic. While the dial is fantastic, there is one area that I could conceivably suggest an improvement from studying the imagery that we’ve been provided. And that is instead of pad printing the markers onto the dial surface, instead printing them onto the underside of the crystal which would have left the dial texture completely untouched. But that is really the only room for aesthetic improvement...
Worn & Wound
Seiko made some big news this morning, with the long rumored announcement of a new version of their classic 6117 Navigator Timer. That vintage reference is critically important for many Seiko collectors, an early GMT from 1968 in the same familiar design language of many classic Seiko sports watches. With new GMT calibers now in production, many enthusiasts expected the timing was right for a modern rendition of the 6117, and today they got their wish in the form of the SPB411, the Seiko Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition. This new reference is a fairly faithful rendition of the classic watch from the 60s, with modern components and design choices only where they’re most appropriate, and plenty of restraint everywhere else (no Prospex logo on the dial!). For GMT fans and Seiko collectors, the SPB411 is a significant new release. All the hallmarks of the 6117 would appear to be present in the SPB411. Namely, the distinctive cushion case, the rotating 24 hour bezel, and a slate gray dial. The “Navigator Timer” wordmark no longer appears on the dial, but otherwise it’s a solid recreation, with rectangular hour markers and thin, block hands carried over to the new release, as well as a short red arrow GMT hand. That gray dial has a sunray finish, and we get a date window at 3:00 with a contrasting white background. Most importantly for fans of the original, the case size has remained consistent. The SPB411 comes in at 38.5mm in diameter, just about half a mi...
Hodinkee
The most modern Santos-Dumont yet, complete with a tiny plane ready for take off.
Hodinkee
Getting up close and personal with the auction's most exciting creations.
WatchAdvice
Unveiled during the Monaco Grand Prix this year, Rebellion launched two limited edition RE-Volt pieces in partnership with the Alfa Romeo F1 team, and we’ve be able to go hands on with the Valtteri Bottas model! What We Love The layered coloured carbon caseSkeletonised dialThe actual pieces of the F1 car in the watch! What We Don’t Lack of water resistanceVelcro strap not as premium or comfortableMinimal power reserve Overall Rating: 8.375/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 8.5/10 As a fan of F1, it’s not everyday you get to go hands on and review a watch that the drivers wear. Let’s face it, many of the F1 teams have some very high end timing partners, like Richard Mille with Ferrari and Maclaren, whilst others like TAG Heuer and IWC are more mass luxury, some of the pieces the drivers sport are not, like the Lake Tahoe Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Lewis Hamilton has been seen with this year! So when Hardy Brothers, who are the official retailer for Rebellion in Australia, called and said they’ve one of the limited edition Valtteri Bottas C43 RE-Volt pieces available, let’s just say I was keen to get it on my wrist! The Rebellion RE-Volt Valtteri Bottas C43 Limited Edition to 50 Pieces Initial Thoughts Seeing this piece in person, you can’t help get some very strong Richard Mille and Hublot vibes from it. Partly due to the case designed in the Tonneau shape that is now synonymous with RM, and perhaps elements of the design an...
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Worn & Wound
Isotope initially piqued my interest two years ago with their uniquely design-forward Hydrium “Will Return” dive watch. This timepiece was intentionally crafted to resemble the iconic “Will Return” sign often seen in shop windows, and its “Why not?” approach left a lasting impression on me. Fast forward two years, and Isotope, founded in 2016 by José and Joana Miranda and headquartered in England, has expanded its Hydrium line with the Hydrium California. This watch, like its predecessors, boldly defies the conventions of typical dive watches, drawing inspiration from Isotope’s own heritage as much as from classic dive watches from the past century. $1115 Hands-On: the Isotope Hydrium California Case Stainless steel Movement Landeron Automatic Dial Black Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap FKM Rubber Water Resistance 300 meters Dimensions 40 x 48mm Thickness 12.9mm Lug Width 22mm Crown Screw down Warranty Yes Price $1115 When the Hydrium Califonia first arrived the first thing I noticed was its case. The starkly uniform bead-blasted finish, which reduces the risk of unwanted reflections that may attract predators during ocean adventures according to Isotope, immediately let me know I could expect this quirky dive watch to be utilitarian not only by design, but also in practice. I eagerly strapped it to my wrist and, despite its generous thickness of 14.9mm, including the double-domed Sapphire Crystal, was pleased to learn that it wears true to its 40 mm diame...
Worn & Wound
It takes a certain courage and determination to start a watch brand. One has to articulate his or her vision into three-dimensional, complex, and mechanical objects. I sometimes struggle to transfer thoughts and ideas about watches to paper, let alone deal with prototypes, source components, and market the final product. In order to get our attention, one must also offer something that is familiar while being different, well-made but not too expensive. If the watch looks too much like something we’ve seen before, we tend to shoot it down. If it comes attached to a price tag orbiting that of fashion watches, we frown at it. So, perhaps we should celebrate the efforts brands put out on an almost daily basis to bring us new watches, as many of us wouldn’t be able to do the same. In that spirit, today we’re going to take a look at the second model from a young French brand called Manime. The model in question is La Fidèle (“The Loyal One” in French) which is the founder’s take on the popular genre of sport watches with integrated bracelets. Manime was founded in 2020 by Edouard Paris, a countryman based out of Thailand. I say countryman because I was born and raised in France, a country which was put back on the horological map ten years ago thanks to popular brands in the likes of Baltic, Serica, Beaubleu and Yema. I may (obviously) be biased here but I believe that French watches come with a certain aesthetic that leans strongly towards elegance and sobriety...
Worn & Wound
At this point in my watch collecting journey, most of my purchases are considered. They are often the result of months, or even years, of planning, or simply waiting until the planets align and the rarest of pieces comes up for sale. However, I’m gleeful to see that sometimes I can still be blindsided by a new release and find that my fingers have entered my card details even before my brain has realized what’s happening. That’s how the Polycarbon ‘Sketch’ from D1 Milano ended up in my watch box. It’s cheap and cheerful, but is it good value? After a close examination, I’m still happy. Looking at D1 Milano’s online catalog of watches, most play heavily on the current integrated-bracelet sports watch trend, and it would be fair to say that some models are influenced rather heavily by other luxury watches. The Polycarbon series, for example, features an 8-sided bezel and overall vibe that definitely brings a specific, more expensive, watch to mind. What has drawn me to this particular variant though, is not the likeness it bears to anything else, but the immediate impact it has and individuality it displays. It just so happens that the case, bezel and bracelet lines on show here, whether original or not, make a great canvas for the sketch effect that D1 Milano has embellished it with. $195 Hands-On: the D1 Milano Polycarbon Sketch Case Polycarbonate, soft-touch coating Movement Seiko VJ21 Dial Matte black Lume None Lens Mineral Strap Polycarbonate, soft-touch...
Hodinkee
A new direction for the fan-favorite field watch.
Hodinkee
The "Devil Diver" has been issued a passport.
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Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Movado Zentih El Primero Going to start this week off strong with a super cool, big ol’ vintage Movado El Primero chronograph. This bad boy has it all, big chunky 44mm steel case, El Primero automatic movement, and beautiful acrylic 12 hour bezel insert. The black dial with three subdials is superb, with nice lume filled white hands, and a blue chrono seconds hand. The case looks unpolished and has a great blocky style. The El Primero is a classic chronograph movement with a long history, and was the first high frequency automatic chrono. Seller states this gem was recently serviced and runs perfectly, so you should be good to go. You don’t see these for sale in auction format often! View auction here Vintage Seiko Turtle 6309-7040 Following up one classic with another! The vintage May 1977 Seiko 6309-7040 diver is the real deal. The Seiko 6309 is still one of the most under-rated vintage divers, despite its amazing quality and history. This example looks to be all original and in really nice shape. The large steel case still exhibits the original brushed finish, but does have some marks. The original bezel insert is also excellent, with only some small nicks here and ther...
Worn & Wound
Our friends at Fratello have announced their latest limited edition collaboration, a follow up to last year’s release with Minase. That watch, the M-3 “Very Peri,” marked the first time Minase’s cushion shaped case was available outside of Japan. This year’s version borrows the same case profile, but lands on a very different dial execution. The Fratello x Minase M-3 “Nori” has a subtle green dial inspired by Japanese seaweed, making for a toned down and perhaps more under-the-radar version of the M-3 than last year’s brightly colored purple variant. Minase, for the uninitiated, is a Japanese brand that produces about 500 pieces per year in the Akita Prefecture. They incorporate many traditional Japanese craft elements in their watchmaking, with a focus on hand-made components, but also incorporate plenty of modern manufacturing techniques. If you’ve handled any of their watches (we’ve been happy to have them at several recent Windup Watch Fairs, and they’ll be joining us once again in NYC next month), you know that they machined and finished immaculately. Zach wrote about Minase’s Divido here, which has an extremely complex case and bracelet construction, paired with a dial that’s made with a very traditional Japanese lacquering technique. The M-3 has a simpler case, but it’s machined and finished to the same high standard as Minase’s more complex designs. The cushion style case measures 39mm in diameter, 46mm lug-to-lug, and is just 10...
Hodinkee
Over land and ice to understand the Overseas.
Hodinkee
It looks identical to its predecessor, but the new cycling features as well as "double-tap" might've put me over the edge.
Hodinkee
Can a fan-favorite "Kind of Blue" be upstaged by a new, subtle release from a bold brand?
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Worn & Wound
It’s no surprise that after the successful launch of the Time Eater, the viral collaboration between Louis Erard and Konstantin Chaykin that launched in April, that the two would attempt a follow up. In fact, not only is it not a surprise, it was expected by anyone who paid close attention to the marketing materials we saw earlier this year, which teased another release to come. Well, like the horror movie franchises that this collaboration sometimes evokes, the sequel has come quickly. The Time Eater II: From Dusk to Dawn, is a pair of watches that use the same basic design as the original Time Eater, but in a darker (literally and figuratively) execution. I don’t know if a “Halloween watch” is actually a thing, but given the aesthetic of the new Time Eater and the season we find ourselves in, it makes a strong case. Like the first drop, this release sees two different versions of the watch in two different case sizes, released alongside one another. Instead of the silvery white dials of the first pair, here we have black (for the 39mm watch) and anthracite (on the larger 42mm version). Both have bright red minute hands that match the major aesthetic shift on these new Time Eaters: a truly gross bloodshot eye hour register. It’s paired with the same sawtooth seconds register at 6:00, and when everything is put together it certainly gives off a spookier vibe, making the original watches with hints of purple and green seem downright playful by comparison. The ...
Hodinkee
Audemars Piguet could find themselves boxed into a corner of design with the "Jumbo" but instead, they keep finding ways to do something new with an icon.
WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre released their latest Polaris Chronograph a couple of weeks ago, and we had the first look, and quite frankly it’s stunning. Now we’ve gone hands on to review the blue dial variant! What We Love Super comfortable on the wristBeautiful textured lacquered dialLegibility and lume both day and night What We Don’t Clasp is a little fiddly with no push buttonNon-screw down crown makes me nervous on WRMovement isn’t as finished as you would expect Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 9/10 The Polaris is a quiet hit for Jaeger-LeCoultre in my opinion, and the new Chronograph released at the start of September was a nice surprise to most. We were lucky enough to get our hands on it before it’s release, and you can read the details on it here. However, being able to wear it around for a week for review really gives you a sense of how this watch really wears and looks on the wrist. In short, the blue dial pops, but recently, we also compared it to the grey dial variant, call it curiosity to see which is better – my initial thoughts are… it’s a very hard choice! The new Polaris Chronograph in Blue and grey dials The Design Let me say this first. The JLC Polaris Chronograph needs to be seen and felt in person. Photo’s really don’t do it justice, especially the texturing and gradient through the centre and main part of the dial. Both the blue and grey variants differ in this aspect, and whilst we’...
Hodinkee
Refinement and flyer functionality, now in a smaller package.
Worn & Wound
“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. This week’s Watches, Stories and Gear is sponsored by Panerai. Check out the new Panerai Navy SEALs collection below. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com DP Review Dives into an Exciting new Fujifilm Camera Photo courtesy DP Review The latest from Fujifilm is generating a lot of conversation among photographers and videographers alike for its slick design and impressive feature set. The just announced GFX 100 II is a medium format camera that features loads of new tech, like an AI based autofocus system that quickly recognizes potential subjects, and a 102 MP BSI CMOS 44x33mm medium format sensor. Best of all, this camera shares a body style with the much loved GFX 100S, prized for its easy to handle small size, but with many of the technical features of the original GFX 100. DP Review has a detailed breakdown of the new camera right here, which seems to offer a ton of value even at the high asking price of $7,500. Panerai Launches an All New, Wide Ranging Navy SEALs Collection For the first time ever, a new collection of Panerais made in partnership with the Navy SEALs will be available internationally, with a sele...
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