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Hublot, you’ve come a long way baby. 16 photos that show just how far the brand has come in 15 years Time+Tide
Hublot you’ve come May 5, 2020

Hublot, you’ve come a long way baby. 16 photos that show just how far the brand has come in 15 years

One fact that seems to have been roundly overlooked in recent years is the slow, steady, but really quite emphatic, elevation in Hublot’s yearly releases. In terms of technical complexity, case design and overall finishing. The Hublot of 2020 is not the brand that Jean-Claude Biver re-introduced to the world 15 years ago with the … ContinuedThe post Hublot, you’ve come a long way baby. 16 photos that show just how far the brand has come in 15 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Opens the First Virtual Boutique SJX Watches
IWC Opens May 5, 2020

IWC Opens the First Virtual Boutique

When IWC opened its boutique in Singapore’s ION Orchard mall in 2009, the store was the brand’s first in Southeast Asia. And now the store has just become the world’s first IWC Virtual Boutique. With malls in Singapore shut because of the COVID-19 coronavirus pandemic, as they are almost everywhere else, the IWC boutique has gone online in full and fine form. Also conceived to reach out to a new audience beyond the typical mall goer, the Virtual Boutique replicates the real-life experience in product and layout – though the well-stocked bar remains out of reach – encompassing all six of IWC’s product families. Everything’s included except sitting down for a drink The line-up includes the bestselling Pilot’s Watches and Portugieser, with watches arranged in showcases, with a click bringing them “up close”. And just like in a real store, the boutique’s salespeople are available for live, realtime chats on weekdays from 10 am to 7 pm. Clients can also schedule an appointment with a salesperson in advance. The virtual store, however, is not an e-commerce platform, so purchases cannot be made on it. “At a time where virtual connections are more frequent and accessible than physical ones, visitors can now enjoy the… IWC experience, outside the traditional retail infrastructure,” says Stanislas Rambaud, the brand’s chief in Southeast Asia, adding, “This endeavour also affirms our determination in extending the world of IWC to new friends, while str...

Junghans Introduces the Max Bill Mega Solar SJX Watches
Junghans Introduces May 5, 2020

Junghans Introduces the Max Bill Mega Solar

The quintessential Junghans is arguably any Max Bill wristwatch, which are all slightly different but share an instantly recognisable style that’s modern, mid-20th century, and still appealing five decades on. The German watchmaker now offers the Max Bill designs in a variety of watches from quartz to automatic chronograph, and the new Max Bill Mega Solar is the most extreme in its design and technological disparity – high-tech dressed in retro style, which makes for a pretty cool watch. Initial thoughts Junghans has solid timekeeping tech in its Mega radio-control watches, but for the most part they are unattractive, at least for someone who likes mechanical watches. Many look like gadgets trying to be an analogue wristwatch. As a result, the Max Bill Mega Solar is a blessing. A Swiss architect and designer whose style was spare and Bauhaus-inspired, Bill designed a series of clocks for Junghans in the late 1950s, followed by wristwatches in 1961. Today’s Max Bill watches are essentially identical to the originals of the 1960s. And now the delightfully concise styling has been combined with a solar-powered, radio-controlled movement. For someone who likes gadgets – and also values good design – this is hard to beat. Radio-control, now worldwide The Max Bill Mega Solar is an upgrade over the earlier Max Bill Mega, which has a quartz movement in a steel case. The new Max Bill Mega Solar has a titanium case, and is solar-powered. It’ll run for up to three ye...

INTRODUCING: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01117, a watch guaranteed to last for the full term of your natural life Time+Tide
Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01117 May 4, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01117, a watch guaranteed to last for the full term of your natural life

We often hear that mechanical watches last forever when given the love and attention they require. That’s part of the reason why they can command such high price tags, and even more in the long run when you factor in a service every five years, give or take. But really, we all know that a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01117, a watch guaranteed to last for the full term of your natural life appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Absolute Light SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces May 4, 2020

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Absolute Light

Girard-Perregaux’s luxury-sports watch is available in the usual range of materials, as well as some unusual carbon-glass composites, and now sapphire with the Laureato Absolute Light. At first glance it appears to adhere to a common formula – executing a well-known case design in sapphire – but Girard-Perregaux has tweaked a few elements to make it a little more interesting, while maintaining transparent-mechanical look prized in such watches. Initial thoughts Ultra-luxe sports watches with sapphire cases are surprisingly common, despite the accompanying price tag. Typically the design can be varied little, since what most brands do is produce their signature style in sapphire. So the way to stand out is to make the details a little bit more interesting, and the price tag a little less high. Girard-Perregaux has succeeded in the former – amongst the interesting details here are the movement and hours chapter ring – while doing so-so on the latter. At 85,000 Swiss francs, the Laureato Absolute Light is a lot of money, but amongst sapphire-case sports watches, the price is middle of the road. Framed by lugs The 44 mm case is typical Laureato, which is a circle within an octagon within a tonneau-shaped case. Admittedly the standard Laureato does bear a strong resemblance to a handful of famous Gerald Genta case designs, but when rendered in sapphire the Laureato does look quite original. The case construction is unusual in that the titanium lugs bookend each side ...

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 03-92 HUD SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces May 4, 2020

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 03-92 HUD

In a smart bit of irony, the latest aviation-instrument edition from Bell & Ross – the BR 03-92 HUD – is a mechanical replica of the electronic heads-up display (HUD) in fighter jets, reproducing the green and black screen from the cockpit with sapphire crystal and Super-Luminova. The BR 03-92 HUD follows on other instrument panel-inspired BR 03 watches, including the BR 01-92 Red Radar of 2011, which was probably the cleverest of the editions, until new HUD. Initial thoughts In its initial years, Bell & Ross (B&R;) took the military-instrument aspect of the BR series pretty seriously, and the watches were largely no-nonsense pilot’s watches. But starting a couple of years ago the designs have gotten more lighthearted – from full “lume” to skulls – which conversely makes sense. The HUD continues with the theme, while managing some self-reflective humour in being a mechanical watch, but manages to capture the cockpit display. And as is typical for the BR series, the watch is powered by an ordinary movement, but presented in a high-quality case made by B&R;’s sister company, G&F; Chatelain (and both, in turn, are owned by Chanel), and accompanied by an accessible retail price. In short, it’s a fun, affordable watch that’s well executed. Tinted crystal The HUD-style watch face is achieved with simple but effective construction that creates several layers of glow-in-the-dark green: the sapphire crystal is tinted green with a coating on its underside, with the ...

Hermès Arceau Cheval Cosmique: Honest-To-Goodness Design That Increases Desire By Exciting The Eye Quill & Pad
Hermes May 3, 2020

Hermès Arceau Cheval Cosmique: Honest-To-Goodness Design That Increases Desire By Exciting The Eye

The Hermès Arceau Cheval Cosmique comes in two limited-edition designs and derives from the Cheval Cosmique design found on other Hermès objects. Both prominently feature the hand-engraved white gold cosmic horse, which takes the artisan almost a week to complete, and artist Gianpaolo Pagni's signature squiggles. For Joshua Munchow it's all about the art and the contrasts.

Bespoke, baby! You can now build your own custom Bremont Martin-Baker Time+Tide
Bremont Martin-Baker Watch customisation May 2, 2020

Bespoke, baby! You can now build your own custom Bremont Martin-Baker

Watch customisation is now a field you can get into at high and low price points, but it’s still fair to say that going bespoke with a quality watch fit for the Ministry of Defence for example, is generally reserved for the upper echelons of independent watchmaking. And up at a price point where you … ContinuedThe post Bespoke, baby! You can now build your own custom Bremont Martin-Baker appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, the three-quarters of a million dollar watch Time+Tide
A. Lange & Sohne May 2, 2020

INTRODUCING: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, the three-quarters of a million dollar watch

It takes an iron will to walk past an A. Lange & Söhne dealer without losing a few minutes of your day. The German masters ensure their collections soar above the competition, bewitching onlookers and dominating wish-lists around the world. If you’re lucky, dead in the centre of the captivating display will be a Zeitwerk … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater, the three-quarters of a million dollar watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ming Introduces the 27.01 SJX Watches
Ming May 1, 2020

Ming Introduces the 27.01

Ming is a “micro brand” that has gained tremendous recognition in a remarkably short period thanks to a well-cultivated design language and smart pricing. While the brand started out with the affordable 17 series, it then went upmarket with the 19 series. Now the brand has unveiled a new model that’s in-between the two, the Ming 27.01. In many ways it’s an evolution of the entry-level 17 series, with a more elaborately-conceived but notably thin case as well as a major upgrade in terms of mechanics, resulting in a slightly higher retail price of 3,950 Swiss francs. Initial thoughts The 27.01 is a good-looking derivative of the 17 series that launched the brand. But it’s not just a similar design, the watch has been upgraded in a useful way, mainly with slimmer proportions and a more interesting movement. Though the base movement is a pedestrian ETA Peseux, it’s been smartly modified to look different and attractive (though the revamped bridges look a bit skimpy leading to minor worries about shock resistance). While the 17 series was great value for money – and cost very little money – the 27.01 is pricey in comparison. It’s priced substantially higher, at about US$4,000, which is still reasonable value, but less easily compelling than the 17 series. An exercise in reductivism While the 27.01 retains the same 38 mm case diameter as the 17.01, its height of just 6.9 mm 27.01 makes it the slimmest Ming watch to date. Because of its svelte dimensions, the ca...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: An open letter describing how you schooled us on the place of watches in a pandemic. How can they still matter? Time+Tide
Apr 30, 2020

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: An open letter describing how you schooled us on the place of watches in a pandemic. How can they still matter?

This time a couple of weeks ago, the challenge was set, and it was formidable. A fast approaching watch fair – Watches & Wonders – with no watches in sight. None to have. None to hold. None to video. What choice but to fold? We didn’t do that, though. We’re Aussies, we don’t give up … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: An open letter describing how you schooled us on the place of watches in a pandemic. How can they still matter? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Cartier Santos-Dumont “La Demoiselle” Limited Edition in platinum, a feast of details Time+Tide
Cartier Santos-Dumont “La Demoiselle” Limited Apr 30, 2020

INTRODUCING: The Cartier Santos-Dumont “La Demoiselle” Limited Edition in platinum, a feast of details

This year, Cartier are shining the spotlight on the pioneering age of aviation as a source of inspiration. And that brings to the fore the wristwatch that started it all, the Santos-Dumont. The model returned to prominence in 2019 with the quartz Cartier Santos-Dumont. While the Cartier family and Brazilian inventor Alberto Santos-Dumont are inexorably … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Cartier Santos-Dumont “La Demoiselle” Limited Edition in platinum, a feast of details appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pandemic Truths – François-Henry Bennahmias SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Apr 30, 2020

Pandemic Truths – François-Henry Bennahmias

Audemars Piguet is one of the most recognised brands in haute horlogerie, but since François-Henry Bennahmias took over as chief executive in 2012, it has enjoyed turbocharged growth, with turnover more than doubling to over a billion francs in 2019. As the crisis hit, Audemars Piguet was still in the midst of executing some drastic strategic changes in the brand’s distribution and marketing – eliminating all third-party retail as well as pulling out from the SIHH trade fair. Has the crisis changed its plans? François-Henry Bennahmias answers our questions from his home in Nyon, a town 40 minutes to Audemars Piguet’s headquarters in Le Brassus (which just opens its new museum shaped like a glass spiral). Francois-Henri at home in Nyon How has this crisis impacted your business? All our manufacturing sites are closed; 85% of our stores worldwide are closed. So we are drastically impacted as you can imagine. 2020 will be affected in a substantial way. But with what our team have achieved in the past eight years, Audemars Piguet can weather the storm. Our financial health is good. We are able to keep every single employee around the world on the payroll. That is mainly what we have been working on: taking care of our people, of their health and of their jobs. In this regard, I would say that all is good! Obviously, the situation calls for a deep reflection on the “after”. Anyone who believes that we will go back to the normal we once knew is completely mistaken. ...