Hodinkee
Introducing: The Breguet Marine Tourbillon Équation Marchante 5887
A new case and dial for one of Breguet's most complex timepieces.
Results for DLC and PVD Coating
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Hodinkee
SJX Watches
Unboxing the G-Shock Dream Project ‘Pure Gold’ in 18k Yellow Gold
Preposterous, outrageous, and very, very cool, the G-Shock Dream Project ‘Pure Gold’ G-D5000-9JR was announced last year. The watch cost US$70,000 – about the same as a Patek Philippe ref. 5172G chronograph or a Voutilainen Vingt-8 in steel – which was a shocker. But with only 35 made, the Dream Project sold out faster than you can say DW-5000. Though the watches were allocated to clients via ballot in May 2019, the first watch was only delivered in January 2020, with the rest of the watches trickling out at a gradual pace until late 2021 when the final watch will be completed. The very first watches were delivered to retailers in Japan, but one recently arrived in Singapore, the only one sold in the city state. Most countries only got one, with very large markets like the United States getting two, and the rest going to Japan. Gold and iron Made entirely of 18k yellow gold – it weighs 297 g or about 10 oz – the Dream Project was first exhibited at Baselworld 2015 as a concept watch. According to watch magazine Chronos Japan, the idea for a gold G-Shock came from Yasuyuki Iima, the president of Eye Eye Isuzu, a noted watch retailer. His suggestion led to G-Shock inventor Kikuo Ibe embarking on a “dream project” – the solid-gold G-Shock. The watch took five years to make it to market primarily because of the challenge in making it as shockproof as a standard G-Shock – basically the watch’s functionality has to survive being thrown out a third-storey ...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Bell & Ross BRV3-94 R.S.20 Chronograph
A modern racing chronograph born out of the partnership between Bell & Ross and the Renault F1 Racing team.
Deployant
Review: Where Classic Meets Contemporary – The Breguet Tradition 7067
In the spirit of 'better late than never', we bring you the low-down and our thoughts on the Breguet Tradition 7067 in white gold.
Revolution
1996 36mm Steel Franck Muller Chrono Seen on A Collected Man
Revolution speaks with the team at A Collected Man on their recently listed 1996 steel Franck Muller Chronograph and why it looks so much like the Roger Dubuis Hommage Chronograph.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Blue Snowflake” SBGA407
One of the all-time best-selling Grand Seiko watches is the Spring Drive “Snowflake”, which gets the name from the its distinctive textured dial. And until recently, the snowflake dial was only available on models with bracelets, save for a few pricey limited editions with gold cases. That changed last year when Grand Seiko debuted the Spring Drive “Blue Snowflake” SBGA407. It combines the famous dial with a more classical case, and a good deal of practicality – date, Spring Drive accuracy, and a surprising 100 m water resistance. On the wrist While most Grand Seiko watches are pretty discreet on the wrist, the “Blue Snowflake” makes a statement due to its colour. The styling is most definitely old school, but the pale-blue dial is both modern and unusual; it’s an unorthodox colour for a man’s watch, especially one that leans towards the dress-watch category, but it works. And the “Blue Snowflake” is also a manageable but modern size. The case is a bit over 40 mm in diameter, and fairly thick, while the bezel is narrow. The result is a watch that wears well and has a good presence on the wrist (with one caveat that is common to Grand Seiko watches on straps: the band has odd proportions, with one side being unnecessarily long). The snowflake story The original “Snowflake” was the Grand Seiko Spring Drive ref. SBGA011 (now known as the SBGA211) that made its debut in 2005. While it did have a titanium case and bracelet, which was fairly uncommon a...
Quill & Pad
Hautlence HL Vagabonde Tourbillon: Not All Those Who Wander Are Lost
The Hautlence HL Vagabonde Tourbillon has the perfect nom de guerre for a watch that both mechanically wanders and represents an attitude upholding its values of exploration, creativity, and innovation. Joshua Munchow explains how this watch works and what sets it apart from other tourbillon models.
Time+Tide
Is AFL star Dustin Martin’s hook-up with luxury watch chain Kennedy a case of retailers finally getting real?
Luxury brands invariably dangle a world of mahogany-panelled exclusivity. Viewed through the prism of their marketing, life is presented as a stately whirl of weekend polo, yachts and vintage convertibles. Access is restricted by a velvet rope and the relative depth of your wallet. But the chance to belong to this rarified community - the champagne … ContinuedThe post Is AFL star Dustin Martin’s hook-up with luxury watch chain Kennedy a case of retailers finally getting real? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: Become A Speedmaster Master
Loving the Speedmaster to the moon and back.
Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Goes ‘Modern Times’ At Charlie Chaplin’s World
In April 2016 a new attraction opened its doors in Switzerland, one that has garnered a lot of attention in the Helvetic country due to the unusual touristic nature of its existence: Chaplin’s World. Come with me on a tour of the museum property and find out why Charlie Chaplin lived in Switzerland and which timepieces he proudly owned. Hint: Jaeger-LeCoultre figures prominently.
Time+Tide
Land, Sky or Sea – 5 Bremonts whose claim to fame is toughness
British watchmaker Bremont may have only been around since 2002, but in that time they’ve earned respect for watches that are durable and robust to an extreme degree, and British to a tee at all times throughout. Few breakthroughs have helped this reputation quite as much as the significant percentage of watches Bremont produce being … ContinuedThe post Land, Sky or Sea – 5 Bremonts whose claim to fame is toughness appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Quick visit: Girard-Perregaux in La Chaux-de-Fonds
We had the opportunity to visit Girard-Perregaux Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds last November, and here is our account of the tour and photographs.
Time+Tide
David Beckham just wore a rare custom Tudor, we’ve tracked down three more you’ve probably not seen
The Tudor Pelagos dangling from David Beckham's wrist prompted us to dig up a few other rare custom co-branded Tudors and Rolexes.The post David Beckham just wore a rare custom Tudor, we’ve tracked down three more you’ve probably not seen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko Blue Snowflake Reference SBGA407: On The Wrist
Grand Seiko’s Blue Snowflake Spring Drive has pushed the venerable Japanese watchmaker to the top of Chris Malburg's horology charts. After spending considerable time with this timepiece, Chris relates the Snowflake’s triumphs and reveals its shortcomings.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Kiu Tai Yu Year of the Pig Commemoration
Kiu Tai Yu (1946-2020) was famed for achieving several firsts in watchmaking. He was the first watchmaker in Asia to build a tourbillon wristwatch – he debuted the Kiu Tai Yu tourbillon no. 1 in 1991 – and also the first Asian member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI). Kiu preceded today’s Asian independent watchmakers by some two decades. He joined the AHCI in 1992, making him one of the earliest entrants into the trade body for independent watchmakers that counts George Daniels (1987), Francois-Paul Journe (1988), and Philippe Dufour (1997) as pioneer members. Working out of a tiny shop named Kew & Cie. in Hong Kong’s Central business district, Kiu did one better after building conventional tourbillons – he invented his very own Mystery Tourbillon that had neither a cage nor visible bridge, for which he was granted patents in China, Switzerland, and the United States. Though he was inactive since 2007 when he suffered a stroke, Kiu was prominent internationally in the 1990s, being a regular at Baselworld where he exhibited his exceptionally distinctive watches. His timepieces encapsulated his philosophy of watchmaking – he did it his way. Kiu Tai Yu in his shop. Photo – Vincent Calabrese Inimitable design The aesthetic of his watches was strikingly Chinese and evocative of a particular period in East Asia. It was not so much the elegant, classical style of historical China, but the over-the-top, exuberant look of Hong Kong and ...
Time+Tide
Great ‘Grams: The Independent Watchmakers Edition
This week on Great ’Grams, it’s all about independent watchmakers, and taking a look at the many different ways these patrons of watchmaking go about their work. One such independent watchmaker is Franck Muller, a man whose factory is known for producing sveltely curved and complicated watches but was once something of a traditionalist. The … ContinuedThe post Great ‘Grams: The Independent Watchmakers Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Tudor’s Golden Child – 50 Years of the Chronograph
Tudor is having its second golden anniversary in successive years – 50 years of the snowflake hands last year, and now the 50th year of the chronograph.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The Apple Watch Series 5 review for people on the go
As I mentioned in my video review of the Apple Watch Series 5, this isn’t the sort of watch that Time+Tide typically reviews. But since 2017, when the Series 2 was launched, the Apple Watch has made headline after headline as it sold millions of units and increasingly worried Swiss watch executives. This shifted the … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Apple Watch Series 5 review for people on the go appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Montblanc Heritage Manufacture Pulsograph Limited Edition, In Rose Gold (Live Pics, Pricing)
One of the world's most beautiful chronographs gets a precious metal case – and an uncommonly beautiful movement.
Quill & Pad
Actor Aldis Hodge Wears Independent Watchmaker Hajime Asaoka’s Kurono Classic In ‘The Invisible Man’
American actor Aldis Hodge recently landed his biggest Hollywood role playing alongside Elisabeth Moss in 'The Invisible Man.' The massive publicity surrounding the film has seen him showcasing two indie watchmakers: MB&F; and Hajime Asaoka, whose Kurono Classic he wore in character during filming of the movie.
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: We’ve run out of apocalypse gags …
At times like this, when everything you looked forward to has been cancelled, when Uber Eats, Netflix and self-isolation are likely to become the new normal, and when there’s an accelerating sense of backsliding into a pandemic abyss, all I can really suggest we do is hold on to what we love. And we love … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: We’ve run out of apocalypse gags … appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing the TAG Heuer Connected Watch’s Third Generation
The TAG Heuer Connected Watch gets a new more ergonomic case and a tailored version of Google’s Watch OS for its third generation, geared towards sports enthusiasts.
Revolution
A. Lange & Söhne’s German Timing at Sydney’s Concours D’Elegance
A. Lange & Söhne takes on official timing duties at the Sydney Harbour Concours D’Elegance, strengthening its presence and influence with the Australian watch and vintage car community.
Time+Tide
What should you do when a knife-wielding maniac tries to steal your Rolex?
Picture the scene: it’s a dark night and you’re leaving work when suddenly a man in a balaclava accosts you, waving a 12-inch knife in your face. Give me your Rolex or I’ll “f***ing stab” you, he yells. This was the nerve-jangling scene that confronted Mark Ewart last week as he left his business, … ContinuedThe post What should you do when a knife-wielding maniac tries to steal your Rolex? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Angostura 1787: A Rich, Ultra-Premium Rum Destined For Sipping Not Mixing
If anyone ever questions rums as a sipping spirit, Ken Gargett directs them to Angostura's Cask Collection and they never again doubt. For those who enjoy this style, he thinks that Angostura will very quickly become a go-to choice for a sipping rum. In this article Ken delves into the entire delicious Angostura collection, too.
Time+Tide
The Report Card: Seiko’s 2020 novelties so far
We may only be three months into 2020, but Seiko is dropping new novelties like the world could end tomorrow … which, given the current state of affairs, does feel ever so slightly plausible. Anyway, I know what you’re thinking: “enough of the doom and gloom, what about the watches?” Well, the Japanese watchmaker has … ContinuedThe post The Report Card: Seiko’s 2020 novelties so far appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Stefan Ketelaars Introduces the 3D Terra in Motion
Twenty-nine year-old Stefan Ketelaars started his eponymous brand in 2017, producing watches based on the ETA Unitas 6497 and 6498 but modified in a novel manner while still being affordable, starting at just €3,800, or about US$4,300. His signature complications are the “flying regulator” time display and spherical day and night display, but most notable is the balance wheel repositioned to the front of the watch. The most recent model unveiled by Ketelaars Watches, the 3D Terra in Motion with Reverse Balance. The new watch builds on his earlier creation that features a miniature Earth that functions as a day and night display, but adds on the elevated balance wheel. Like the rest of his watches, the 3D Terra in Motion is powered by a heavily modified Unitas 6497. But unlike the usual modified-Unitas fare in this price range that reshape the bridges for a new look, Mr Ketelaars retains most of the components on the back and instead reworks the front. From the back, the distinctive Unitas bridges retain the same shape, but enhanced with pronounced, sloping bevelling on all the edges. The anglage is wide enough that its top edge almost touches the countersinks for the nearby screws and jewels. A Ketelaars Unitas 6497 with a standard balance wheel on the back; the bridges are finished with radial graining and anglage The Reverse Balance The most significant modification on the new 3D Terra in Motion is the repositioning of the balance wheel. Instead of being on the...
Deployant
New: Two new Villerets – Villeret Quantième Complet & Villeret Ultraplate
Blancpain extends the Villeret line's the Quantième Complet and the Ultraplate with stunning new midnight blue dials and in red gold cases.
Revolution
Casio Releases its G-SHOCK MR-G × Bruce Lee Collaboration Model
In the pantheon of cultural icons, Bruce Lee stands tall and defiant; now the philosopher martial arts movie star gets a G-SHOCK tribute for his 80th year.
WatchAdvice
Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date Review
“Beauty drives our decisions. In beauty, we find attraction, love even, which drives us to invest. We buy what we love. With a watch, that’s very true. Most often, the heart rules the head.” Those words are from Oris’s Joint Executive Officer; Rolf Studer. The brand celebrated a very important historical role of the Big Crown Pointer Date by giving the latest edition a solid bronze casing and a unique finish on the dial that makes each watch different from one another. The original Big Crown Pointer Date played a significant role for Oris during the 1970s Quartz Crisis and the revival of the Swiss watch industry. When Oris decided to only build mechanical watches during the mid to late 1980s, the Big Crown Pointer Date was vital in this decision. The watch carried a presence of history and emotional value along with a driven purpose that many of the quartz-powered timepieces in the era of the Quartz Crisis couldn’t compete with. The Big Crown Pointer Date become a signature for not only Oris but also the revival of the mechanical Swiss watch from the Quartz Crisis. In 1938, the creators of the Big Crown Pointer Date designed the watch so that it was well suited for the aviation industry. Timepieces that were designed in the early days for the aviation industry had to be easily readable at a glance so that pilots were able to do calculations quickly. They also needed to be easily adjustable while also being sturdy and reliable enough to withstand the turbulenc...