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Results for ISO 6425 (Diver's Watch Standard)

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Ming Debuts their Fifth Generation Design Language with the 57.04 Iris Worn & Wound
Ming Aug 25, 2025

Ming Debuts their Fifth Generation Design Language with the 57.04 Iris

It comes up, somehow, in almost every article you read about Ming: they have an incredibly distinct design language all their own. How many times have you read something like, “you can spot a Ming from across the room!” I admit, we’re as guilty as anyone. But it’s undeniable that the look of these watches defines them, and that they’ve landed on something with that flying blade lug design that is both easily identifiable and well suited to building a supremely comfortable case. It’s something that’s always been there, but has slowly evolved over the course of Ming’s still relatively short history. Today, the brand announces the new 57.04 Iris, the first watch in what the brand terms as their fifth generation design. It’s at once both a radical departure from previous Ming designs, and very much related to all that’s come before.  The new 57.04 is influenced rather unapologetically by Art Deco design cues, particularly the dramatic stepped lugs, still with the same flared design. Ming says that the lugs make use of nine separate pieces in what has to be one of the most complex case designs the brand has attempted to date. The top of each step is polished and sides (which have very small surface areas by design) are brushed. It’s a bold design for sure, and makes an immediate impression, and strikes me as being quite a bit more ornate than the inherently minimalistic case designs Ming has produced in the past. Still, the shape is unmistakably Ming.  T...

Prix Gaïa 2025 Awarded to Dr Helmut Crott for Scholarship SJX Watches
Aug 25, 2025

Prix Gaïa 2025 Awarded to Dr Helmut Crott for Scholarship

Awarded annually by the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH), one of Switzerland’s leading timekeeping museums, the Prix Gaïa recognises individuals who have contributed to watchmaking in three categories. This year’s winner in the “History [and] Research” category is Dr Helmut Crott. Best known for having founded the eponymous auction house, Dr Crott is also an author, scholar, and former owner of Urban Jürgensen, amongst other roles. In 2021 he authored Le Cadran, an in-depth study of dials and dial making techniques of 20th century wristwatches. Le Cadran by Dr Helmut Crott Past winners of the Prix Gaïa include Reinhard Meis, Jonathan Betts, Pierre-Yves Donzé, Kathleen Pritschard, and Ludwig Oechslin, all scholars and authors who have contributed substantively to the body of knowledge in the field. Alongside Dr Crott, this year’s winners are Jean-Jacques Paolini for “Entrepreneurship”, and Roger W. Smith for “Craftsmanship [and] Creation”. As the successor to Georges Daniels’ brand of English watchmaking, Mr Smith now produces watches under his own name, with his achievements and timepieces well known. Jean-Jacques Paolini Mr Paolini, on the other hand, is less known outside the industry, but he is arguably most responsible for building the enterprise that’s the largest employer in La Chaux-de-Fonds. In 1980, Mr Paolini took over his family’s case and bracelet manufacturing business, developing its operations sufficiently that it was acq...

First Look – The new Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24 Monochrome
Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series Aug 24, 2025

First Look – The new Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24

Headquartered in the historical centre of Delft, The Netherlands, Holthinrichs Watches, named after its founder Michiel Holthinrichs, is one of the rising stars of the indie watchmaking scene. The brand has a truly unique approach to design and manufacturing, combining advanced metal printing techniques (yes, 3D printed cases are THE signature feature there) with high-end […]

The Best Solar Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 22, 2025

The Best Solar Watches

  Solar watches are an eco-friendly alternative to traditional quartz watches with lithium battery-powered movements. Watches with solar-powered movements still maintain the accuracy and reliability of quartz technology, which makes them much more precise than any mechanical watch. Here's a brief history of solar technology in watchmaking and a selection of notable solar watches on sale now. Solar Watch Technology - A Brief History In the late 1960s, the Swiss watch industry was on the precipice of a technical revolution that would ultimately threaten the very existence of traditional mechanical watchmaking while simultaneously ushering in the dawn of mass-produced electronic watches. By the 1970s, quartz movements had won out over a handful of other early technological approaches to producing electronic watches (you can delve a bit more into that history here), giving rise to the era now known known within the industry as the Quartz Crisis. Experiments with using solar power to charge watches, however, go all the way back to the '60s, to the development of the first solar-powered movement by American engineer Roger Riehl. This technology was introduced to the market in 1972, with the first prototype called the “Synchronar” and the first production piece, the Synchronar 2100, released later that same year.   Priced at nearly $500 (about $3,200 in today's money), the Synchronar 2100 was considered something of a luxury product and struggled to compete in...

King Seiko SPB389 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Aug 22, 2025

King Seiko SPB389 Review

Everyone knows about Seiko and Grand Seiko, but…what exactly is King Seiko? Well, King Seiko is one of those cult-classic throwbacks that dodges easy categorization or market segmentation. The 1960s elegance and sheer retro vibes exuded by this collection is charming and a little quirky in a world where big brother Grand Seiko has reached downright mainstream status. In 2021, the King Seiko KSK SJE083 resurrected the historic KSK model and the collection has slowly grown since then under the Seiko Luxe collection of higher-end offerings. Here we see the Seiko SPB389, which is a mid-century-inspired watch that will appeal to the kind of person who loves being early to a trend. Seiko Luxe Explained First off I wanted to address the Seiko Luxe collection, because I know not everyone is up to date with the tiers of Seiko. Where standard Seiko is your more classic, accessible fare, the Seiko Luxe collection is the higher-end series that consists of offerings like King Seiko as well as Presage watches with special touches like enamel dials and the more refined pieces in the Prospex collection. Seiko Luxe generally starts around the $750 mark and goes up to over $3,000, so the range is quite broad. Personally, the only Seiko watch I’ve ever purchased is from the Seiko Luxe collection (an enamel dial Presage I reviewed here) and it really is so much watch for the money. King Seiko SPB389 Case and Bracelet When King Seiko first returned to the scene a couple of years back, it w...

Louis Erard Introduces the Gravée Main, with a Fully Engraved Case Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Introduces Aug 22, 2025

Louis Erard Introduces the Gravée Main, with a Fully Engraved Case

Of all the artisanal specialities in watchmaking, case engraving has to be among the most obscure and unheralded. I think there are a few reasons for this. One, the dial is where the action is on most watches, and applying a time consuming artistic craft on the case might be seen by some watchmakers as a waste of valuable time. Another factor is that to a large extent, we’ve all been trained to appreciate a particular type of case finishing. We see crisp transitions between brushed and polished surfaces, and that registers as being of a certain level of quality that we expect in a luxury watch. If those elements aren’t there, even if they’re substituted by something that might be visually striking, our reptile brains feel like there’s something missing. The latest in Louis Erard’s ongoing Métiers d’Art series, however, is a good opportunity to appreciate complex case engraving in a new way.  The whole idea behind how Louis Erard approaches Métiers d’Art, and to a certain extent the brand’s focus more generally, is to make craft accessible. The new Gravée Main is perhaps their most ambitious attempt in this area to date. Virtually every steel surface (the case, bezel, lugs, crown, and buckle) is hand engraved. According to the brand, each watch takes upwards of 50 hours to engrave by hand, and only 99 will be made.  Engraving is one of those things that really comes alive when you look at it closely and imagine that painstaking work that went into creat...

Retro Watches Are Here To Stay For Generations To Come: Here’s Why Fratello
Aug 21, 2025

Retro Watches Are Here To Stay For Generations To Come: Here’s Why

There’s a strong demand for products and experiences from the past. Nostalgia is a yearning for the good ol’ days. The word “nostalgia” is derived from the Greek words nostos (return) and algos (pain). That “pain” is felt today by practically all, from the baby boomers, born between 1946 and 1964, to Generation Alpha, those […] Visit Retro Watches Are Here To Stay For Generations To Come: Here’s Why to read the full article.

First Look – A Fresh New Green Dial for the Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic When Aug 20, 2025

First Look – A Fresh New Green Dial for the Bulgari Octo Roma Automatic

When it comes to watches for men made by Bulgari, it seems the multiple-time record-breaking Octo Finissimo range gets all the attention… Rightfully so, you’ll admit, as this collection is as spectacular visually as it is technically. Bold, ultra-thin, highly distinctive in its approach to design and materials and undeniably Italian, it is the brand’s […]

Roger Dubuis Impresses with the RD780 Flyback Chronograph SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey though Aug 20, 2025

Roger Dubuis Impresses with the RD780 Flyback Chronograph

Representing a new era for the Roger Dubuis manufacture, the Excalibur Spider Flyback is an aggressively styled, motorsports-themed chronograph – boasting the impressive, high-spec RD780 movement with some unusual tricks up its sleeve, including an inclined balance. While the Excalibur Spider Flyback harkens back to the brand’s early aspirations in terms of movement construction and ambition, it diverges entirely in style with its supercar-inspired lines. Limited to 88 examples in pink gold, it debuted at Monterey Car Week – Roger Dubuis is a partner of Lamborghini – this variant in pink gold and blackened titanium is a new iteration of a model originally available in carbon composite. The RD780 Initial Thoughts In its past life, Roger Dubuis raised a menagerie of ambitious – perhaps overambitious – movements. While the brand thinned the herd after the 2008 financial crisis, some of that spirit lives on inside the Excalibur Spider Flyback. It attempts the dial-movement integration and three dimensionality mastered by some independent watchmakers like Greubel Forsey, though the construction is still fairly traditional, leading to some lost opportunities. The calibre is impressive – especially for a brand owned by a luxury group – but could be better. For example, the minutes counter could be inclined by 12° to mirror the balance and the imitation barrel bridge to be more convincing in terms of style and symmetry. With its over-the-top-style, the Richard Mil...

Tudor Black Bay Pro Review Teddy Baldassarre
Tudor Aug 19, 2025

Tudor Black Bay Pro Review

At Watches & Wonders 2025, Tudor expanded its existing catalog to address some fan requests as well as to reset some long neglected collections. One release that does both is the new Black Bay Pro with a silver opaline dial. This is a configuration long requested from enthusiasts, and Tudor did the idea justice by getting the small details right. This is more than a mere dial swap, even if the underlying platform remains largely the same. This is the kind of methodical evolution we’ve come to expect from Tudor, though in some ways, the new Black Bay Pro plays things a little too safe.  Let’s take a quick look back at Tudor’s recent history with the GMT complication to set some context for the newest Black Bay Pro, because - while this configuration has been highly requested - as far as fan requests go, this watch has one glaring omission. Tudor released the Black Bay GMT back in 2018 with a black dial and a throwback red-and-blue aluminum bezel. As popular as the watch was right off the bat, the size made it a tough pill to swallow for some, particularly the thickness of the case paired with the relatively flat sidewall.  Tudor Black Bay Pro Case Tudor partially addressed this with the release of the first Black Bay Pro in 2022 in a 39mm steel case. The watch also played up ties to the Rolex Explorer II with a fixed steel bezel. It was an unexpected release but it hit many of the right notes, and it made the substantial thickness a bit easier to stomach. It wor...

Hands-On With The New Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II Fratello
Oris Aquis New York Harbor Aug 19, 2025

Hands-On With The New Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II

We know Oris as a watchmaking company dedicated to reducing its environmental impact and supporting good causes around the globe. Today, I got a chance to go hands-on with the brand’s latest effort in that spirit. This is the Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II. This 2,000-piece limited edition supports the Billion Oyster […] Visit Hands-On With The New Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition II to read the full article.

eBay Finds: Another Cool Vintage LED, a Gorgeous Grand Seiko, and an Art Deco Bulova Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Aug 15, 2025

eBay Finds: Another Cool Vintage LED, a Gorgeous Grand Seiko, and an Art Deco Bulova

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Shreve & Co LED  Another week, another cool vintage LED! I honestly don’t know why there are so many of these coming out of the woodwork, but I’m glad they are. This one is a vintage Shreve & Co. with a nice space-age chunky look. The 36.5mm steel case is in great shape with sharp edges and unpolished. The bracelet is original and complements the watch perfectly. The display works and the watch runs as it should. Nice 1970’s goodness from a seldom seen brand. View auction here Vintage Grand Seiko 6146-8000  We have a real winner here, a vintage Grand Seiko 6146-8000 dress watch. This 61GS epitomizes Grand Seiko’s Grammar of Design aesthetic. The broad planes, sharp edges and mix of brushed and polished finishes is simply sublime. The silver dial is clean and has the classic simple stick markers and a day/date window at 3 o’clock. The dauphine hands have gorgeous bevels, a testament to the precise craftsmanship of the Grand Seiko line. The 6146 movement is hi-beat, pulsing at 36000 beats per hour. The deeply grooved crown is original and signed with the GS logo as it should. The gold GS caseback medallion is in really nice condition as well. Really a beautiful piece here. Vie...

Introducing The Formex Essence 41mm Space Ghost - A New Medium Size With A Meteorite Dial And Even More Technical Ingenuity Fratello
Formex Essence 41mm Space Ghost Aug 15, 2025

Introducing The Formex Essence 41mm Space Ghost - A New Medium Size With A Meteorite Dial And Even More Technical Ingenuity

The Essence is one of Formex’s most innovative and all-around watches. It’s also the most popular one because of the specs it features for the price, and its comfortable wearing experience. Today, the brand introduces the Essence Space Ghost in stainless steel and a new 41mm size. But this is not just another Essence that’s […] Visit Introducing The Formex Essence 41mm Space Ghost - A New Medium Size With A Meteorite Dial And Even More Technical Ingenuity to read the full article.

An Inside Look At The New Glashütte Original Dial Manufacture Teddy Baldassarre
Glashutte Original Aug 14, 2025

An Inside Look At The New Glashütte Original Dial Manufacture

Here’s the headline: this summer, the namesake and flagbearer of the Glashütte watchmaking region, Glashütte Original, has opened its own, dedicated dial manufacture. You might be asking yourself, “I thought G.O. already did everything in-house, what’s the deal?” And while you would be right to ask, the basis of the question is also correct. Glashütte Original, while owned by Swatch Group, does, in fact, “do everything in-house,” or to be more specific: 95% of everything. However, up to this point, the dials for G.O. watches were made in a facility six hours away in Pforzheim. This move has brought production to a 5,000-plus-square-foot facility that is just a quick float down the babbling Muglitz River - 450 meters, to be exact. In a market where collectors are placing increasing importance on “in-house” everything, this is a big move for a company that has been preaching the Homemade Gospel from the Saxon hilltops for decades. Not only does this allow for more agile production timelines, but it increases G.O.’s production capabilities as a whole. G.O. brought me to Germany to see the new facility and to tour the full manufacture as well. In addition to the photos here, which won’t tell the full story, we also have a full video touring the manufacture.   This sort of care for detail and attention to craftsmanship is deeply ingrained in the region, and in Glashütte Original as a brand. The people at this manufacture take the namesake very seriously...

Going Hands-On With The Brand New Farer Integra Viridis With A Malachite Dial Fratello
Farer Integra Viridis Aug 14, 2025

Going Hands-On With The Brand New Farer Integra Viridis With A Malachite Dial

What I love about Farer is that you recognize their watches instantly. Over time, the English brand has developed a collection with a very distinct style. The dial colors, the font types, and the colorful overall presence of the watches have gained Farer many fans. The latest addition to the line-up is the new Integra […] Visit Going Hands-On With The Brand New Farer Integra Viridis With A Malachite Dial to read the full article.

Business News: Audemars Piguet Advances Vertical Integration with Inhotec SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Advances Vertical Integration Aug 14, 2025

Business News: Audemars Piguet Advances Vertical Integration with Inhotec

Audemars Piguet (AP) has just announced a majority stake in Inhotec, a supplier of components for high-end mechanical movements. Long a supplier to AP, Inhotec produces parts ranging from base plates to springs, in both raw and fully decorated states. The value of the deal was not revealed, but founder Alexandre Eme will retain a minority stake and continue to serve as chief executive of Inhotec, which was founded in 2011. According to the announcement, AP will “provide strategic and financial support” while leaving Inhotec to retain “operational autonomy” over “managerial decisions, industrial activities and commercial relationships”. Lucas Raggi, the chief industrial officer of AP, explains the acquisition “is about consolidating key strategic skills and supporting the continuity of an expertise that is essential to the future of haute horlogerie“. AP’s acquisition of Inhotec reflects two trends. One is the longstanding and continued development of AP’s production capabilities, exemplified by the recent inauguration of the expansive Arc manufacture in Le Brassus. The other is macro, a slowdown in business for specialised suppliers across the watchmaking value chain.  

Not Another Indie: How Armin Strom Stands Out in a Crowded Playing Field Fratello
Armin Strom Stands Out Aug 12, 2025

Not Another Indie: How Armin Strom Stands Out in a Crowded Playing Field

I’ve written several articles about Armin Strom. From normal reviews to a closer look at the brand’s resonance calibers, it’s fun to take a closer look at this brand. But why is that? In my view, the brand stands out among other haute horlogerie brands for several reasons. The watches seamlessly combine technical chops in […] Visit Not Another Indie: How Armin Strom Stands Out in a Crowded Playing Field to read the full article.

Introducing – The New Unimatic ModelLo Uno Prodiver Collection Monochrome
Massena Lab where archival design cues Aug 12, 2025

Introducing – The New Unimatic ModelLo Uno Prodiver Collection

Unimatic is a relatively young yet popular Milan-based independent watchmaker with a loyal following. Thanks to its minimalist, military-inspired dive watches, the brand has attracted international attention through its own collections and various collaborations, most notably with Massena Lab, where archival design cues met Unimatic’s modern, utilitarian aesthetic. These projects have cemented Unimatic’s reputation as […]

Unimatic Introduces the New Prodiver Collection Worn & Wound
Unimatic Aug 12, 2025

Unimatic Introduces the New Prodiver Collection

While minimalism may be as trendy as ever these days (one look at any modern car interior will tell you that) a lot of brands miss the mark when it comes to balancing that aesthetic with function, or the lack thereof. Not so with Unimatic’s all-new Prodiver line, which promises both a streamlined design language and robust mechanical functionality. But do the watches actually pull it off? Let’s take a deeper dive and find out. Perhaps the biggest factor in Unimatic’s favor here is the Italian brand’s penchant for design cohesiveness across their lineup. Even before taking the new Prodiver into consideration, Unimatic watches share aesthetic hallmarks, namely chunky, round indexes, sans serif typefaces, and symmetrical dial balance. Even models that deviate from this norm, like the UT1 and UT4, which feature hour numerals instead, carry a uniformly round and hardy profile, which gives each Unimatic watch friendly-yet-tough dimensions. This is all personal conjecture, of course, but rarely does a brand manage to maintain consistency in design across their entire lineup quite as well as Unimatic does.  Back to the Prodiver, though; like most other watches by the brand, it also bears the signature round indexes, though it adds some legitimate dive watch pedigree, too. Each of the three new Modello Uno models sports a democratically-sized case, measuring at 40mm in diameter and 49mm lug to lug. The case thickness is a healthy 14.4mm with the domed sapphire crystal, and...

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Tribute to the Celestial” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Tribute Aug 12, 2025

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art “Tribute to the Celestial”

Long a pillar of Vacheron Constantin’s line-up, Métiers d’Art has usually been about figurative, decorative, and classical watches, with traditional motifs and techniques being a recurring theme. The Métiers d’Art “Tribute to the Celestial” is, however, different in style from the usual Métiers d’Art offers, although its distinctive look is inspired by a one-off grand complication from 2021. The Tribute to the Celestial is a combination of familiar elements, but executed in a surprising way. It’s centred on traditional techniques, namely the hand guilloche dial and gem-set case, but modern in approach and aesthetics. The palette is largely blue and almost monochromatic, while the guilloche forms a geometric, polygonal motif. Initial thoughts At a distance, the Tribute to the Celestial is not what you expect. Across a room, it looks like a shiny, all-blue watch that could be ceramic or another contemporary material. It also doesn’t reveal much detail. But up close the Tribute to the Celestial shows off lots of refined detailing; it’s a double dose of metiers d’art, engine turning and gem setting. The primary metiers d’art on the Tribute to the Celestial is the guilloche on the dial that is done by hand in-house at Vacheron Constantin’s engine turning workshop. Instead of the common guilloche found on many watches, this employs straight lines at different angles to create a polygonal motif that forms a zodiac symbol, illustrating the versatility of...