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Quill & Pad
In this non-chronological multipart series called “History of Ferrari Watches,” Elizabeth Doerr takes us through a comprehensive look into the Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari collaboration, which took place between 1993 and 2004 and culminated in the Girard-Perregaux Pour Ferrari Tribute to Enzo Ferrari Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges perpetual calendar chronograph.
SJX Watches
One of Seiko’s pioneering dive watches, the “Tuna” ref. 6159-7010 was launched in 1975 as an automatic, titanium-case diver with the greatest depth rating Seiko could muster at the time, an impressive 600 m. And in 1986, Seiko upped its game with the 1000 m “Golden Tuna” ref. 7C46-7009/7010, a quartz watch that got its nickname from the gold-coated titanium inner case. With this year being the 35th anniversary of the “Golden Tuna” 1000 m, Seiko has announced a commemorative model that’s an essentially a dressed up version of the vintage original. The Seiko Prospex 1986 Quartz Diver’s 35th Anniversary Limited Edition retains the iconic shrouded case in titanium and ceramic and the same, exceptionally robust quartz movement found in the original. The key design feature of the anniversary model, however, is the gradient blue dial that’s dark blue on the upper half of the dial and fades downwards into black, evoking the depths of the sea. At the same time, the gilded details of the original have been reduced, leaving the gold plating for just screws that secure the shroud as well as the buckle. Initial thoughts The “Tuna” – in all its myriad variations – is an attractive, both for its distinctive style and its legit professional-diver heritage. More notable is the fact that the most basic “Tuna” starts at just a few hundred dollars – though the entry-level models are not true dive instruments – making the design relatively wallet-friendl...
SJX Watches
Introduced last year as part of the 175th Anniversary trio, the 1815 Rattrapante Honeygold “Homage to F.A. Lange” is the first straightforward split-seconds chronograph wristwatch unveiled by A. Lange & Söhne. Simpler, but not simple, the 1815 Rattrapante is appealing in the way that many Lange watches are – the quality of fit and finish is obvious – but it is also notable in both style and movement construction. Initial thoughts A small run of just 100 watches, the 1815 Rattrapante is mostly sold out. Nonetheless it’s a beautiful and unusual enough that it is worth a look. While the other two “Homage to F.A. Lange” 175th Anniversary limited editions – the 1815 Thin and Tourbograph – are powered by movements found in other models, the 1815 Rattrapante is equipped with its own calibre, the L101.2. Granted, the L101.2 derived from the movement in the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar, but it is still substantially different. For one, it has more elegant proportions than the average complicated Lange, with a profile that’s relatively flat. The brand’s complex watches are often big – both wide and thick – so the 1815 Rattrapante stands out for being smaller in comparison. It is a still a largish 41.2 mm in diameter, but just 12.6 mm high. While clearly an 1815 in style, the Rattrapante diverges in its colours. Lange rolls out fewer colour iterations of its models than its peers, which makes this combination unorthodox. Bringing to mind the f...
Quill & Pad
As the resident Quill & Pad watch spotter, Nick Gould spends hours on random searches looking for interesting horological finds. Most of the time he finds nothing, but occasionally he discovers nuggets of gold. Here are four of his favorite wrist spots for 2020.
SJX Watches
A restrained yet modern take on Chopard’s ultra-thin gentleman’s watch, the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton is the result of a collaboration between the watchmaker and the Neapolitan suit maker. Perhaps because casual or sports attire is the de facto dress everywhere, the L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton is thin and refined, but also clad in a striking red and black. Initial thoughts Watchmaker-tailor collaborations generally haven’t worked well. Anyone remember the Zegna watches made by Girard-Perregaux? The Chopard-Kiton tie-up, however, succeeds by subtly incorporating Kiton elements into the L.U.C XP – short for extra plat, or “extra flat”. It’s essentially an all-black watch with accents of red and red gold, a high-contrast combination that works well when done tastefully, as this is. And the fact that it’s an L.U.C also helps, because L.U.C movements are uniformly excellent in their respective price segments. The L.U.C XP is an extremely high quality watch for about US$10,000, which is strong value. Restrained style Headquartered in Naples and family owned like Chopard, Kiton is a vertically-integrated maker of high-end menswear, including suits made of ultra-fine wool that cost more than this watch. An elegant watch with accents of colour, the new L.U.C XP is dressed in the colours of the Kiton logo – red and black – with the tailor’s button emblem discreetly placed above six o’clock. It features a subtle houndstooth pattern printed on the dial, which is ma...
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SJX Watches
Romain Gauthier’s latest watch is a skeletonised version of its Insight time-only automatic first introduced three years ago. The Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette retains the same style as the brand’s other watches, but with more elaborate finishing thanks to the open-worked movement. Initial thoughts Romain Gauthier excels in finishing and the new watch undoubtedly has even more of the brand’s top-quality work since there are more surfaces to decorate. The skeletonisation also goes well with the movement, accentuating the long curves and sharp points that are typical of Romain Gauthier style. Importantly, it’s not just a visual upgrade, but also a tangible one – instead of the usual brass, the bridges and base plate of the skeletonised movement are made of titanium. But the titanium parts are finished to the same degree as a standard brass movement, which is quite a feat. And the basic Insight is already a well-conceived watch in the first place. It avoids some of the impractical features, like button winding and back winding, that Romain Gauthier installed on earlier models just to be different. That said, the skeleton version also suffers from one shortcoming of the standard model, which is the thick, 12.9 mm case. Nonetheless, the Insight skeleton is largely an enhanced version of an already-excellent watch. The Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette with a carbon-composite case The only downside is the price – which is no doubt justifiable. The skeleton in an 18k gold...
![Up Close: Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Chronograph 40 mm](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/audemars-piguet-remaster-01-chronograph-review1.jpg)
SJX Watches
Rumours were percolating for some time that Audemars Piguet was going to unveil a vintage-inspired watch to mark the opening of its recently-finished, hairspring-shaped museum. But when the Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph 40 mm was revealed, it was still surprising. In the metal, the “remastered” watch is appealing; it looks good and the execution is impressively high quality in all aspects. The dial in particularly is sharply done, with even the tiniest details done right. And the movement inside is modern – and looks modern – but is impeccably constructed. But at the same time, the watch is a bit thick, and also expensive. The [Re]master01 in steel and 18k pink gold The ref. 1533 As with many reissued or “remastered” timepieces, the inspiration for the [Re]master01 is a well-known and well-documented watch: the ref. 1533, a chronograph wristwatch produced in the 1940s. It was 36.5 mm in diameter, extra-large for the period, and a three-counter chronograph, instead of the two registers typical then. Only nine of them were made, three with two-tone, steel-and-gold cases. The archive photograph of the ref. 1533. Photo – Audemars Piguet Two examples of the steel-and-gold ref. 1533 were sold in recent years at Phillips auctioneers, both setting price records for the most expensive vintage AP chronograph sold at auction. The first sold for 305,000 Swiss francs in 2015 – going to the Audemars Piguet Museum – and the second, 384,500 franc...
WatchAdvice
In 2018, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M celebrated its 25th anniversary since the first release back in 1993. To celebrate this momentous occasion for one of the brands popular range, Omega gave the Seamaster Diver 300M a complete changeover while still retaining some of the design cues from the original model. The original 1993 Omega Seamaster 300M was introduced as a replacement for the Seamaster 200M model. Jean-Claude Biver cleverly marketed the original 1993 Omega Seamaster Diver 300M to raise the popularity of the model quite a bit, by having James Bond wear it in the 1995 film ‘Goldeneye’. Since the first Seamaster Diver 300M, there have been four generations of models including the latest 25th-anniversary release. Almost all generations kept the same design cues with changes coming from different materials and movements. From first glance, the most notable changes throughout the four generations are the case sizing and the bezel design. The bezel seems to get larger numerals in each of the latest generations. Design: The 25th-anniversary edition has a laser-cut wave pattern dial, similar to the 300M model released by Omega in 2006. The latest version, however, has more prominent waves, making them much more easily visible. The wave pattern certainly adds a unique look to the dial while drawing attention to what the watch is really about. Even with the wave pattern, however, the dial is still easily legible. This is thanks to the rhodium-plated hour indexes ...
SJX Watches
Conceived by Louis Cartier for Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont – who needed a timepiece he could read while flying – the Santos-Dumont wristwatch has the double distinction of being the first wristwatch designed from the ground up for men, as well as being the first-ever pilot’s wristwatch. Now the 116-year old design has just received its latest update with the unveiling of the hand-wound Santos-Dumont XL. [Update March 23, 2020: Read the review with more photos.] Though the Brazilian pilot got his wristwatch in 1904, it took until 1911 for the design to be sold commercially. For most of the century since, the Santos-Dumont has been part of the Cartier line-up in one way or another, often in gold but occasionally in platinum (one outlier was a special edition in titanium with a skeleton movement). The most recent facelift happened in 2005, which saw the unveiling of a version without a bezel. The new Santos-Dumont XL in all three versions Last year, the latest generation of the Santos-Dumont was unveiled, marking a return to the iconic Santos bezel with screws. For the first time ever, the Santos-Dumont was available in steel as well as two-tone steel and gold, along with the traditional all-gold case. However, the new Santos-Dumont didn’t quite receive unanimous acclaim because it was quartz movement. But now Cartier has finally unveiled what was long expected, the mechanical Santos-Dumont XL. Measuring 46.6 by 33.9 mm and just 7.5 mm in height...
SJX Watches
Originally introduced in 2017 for the Grand Exhibition in New York, the Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R was the first minute repeater that could chime the local time, as opposed to a conventional world-time repeater that would only strike the home time. The reference then entered regular production in 2018 with a cloisonné enamel of Lake Geneva, or the lac Léman as locals know it, a recurring motif on Patek Philippe enamel watches. Patek Philippe has now unveiled a special-edition version for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition 2019 in Singapore, featuring a cloisonné enamel dial depicting the city centre of Singapore, along with the country’s name listed on the city disc in place of Beijing. It joins the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Singapore 2019 Ref. 5303R as one of the grand complications created especially for the event. As was always the case, the watch is in red gold and measures 40.2mm wide. it features hand-guillochéd, hobnail pattern on the case band as well as on the repeater slide on the left. In it is the self-winding cal. R 27 HU which features the patented repeater mechanism that chimes the time of the city at the 12 o’clock position on the world time mechanism. While a minute repeater usually operates independently from the world time and thus chimes only the home time, the two mechanisms in this case are mechanically coupled. The hour snail of the repeater is continuously driven by the time zone wheel of the world time mechanism. ...
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SJX Watches
The Phillips Perpetual boutique in London officially opens this week with 40 watches encompassing all important genres of watch collecting, from a Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” to a Patek Philippe Nautilus “Jumbo” ref. 3700 (from the collection of Jean-Claude Biver no less). But one of the flagship offerings is an important example of independent watchmaking – a Roger W. Smith Series 2 “Edition 2” that’s “No. 1”. It is very much a quintessential, early Roger W. Smith creation with the hallmark elements of his watchmaking. But the watch is also historically interesting, being an example of the road not taken for Mr Smith. The forgotten “Edition” This watch illuminates an intriguing bit of early Roger W. Smith history. Shortly after Mr Smith delivered the first batch of Series 2 watches in late 2007, he decided to create the “Edition” concept. According to Mr Smith, the idea was to produce Series 2 as a limited edition of 90 watches in total, with 30 watches in each colour of gold. All Edition watches had 38mm cases and solid silver dials; the Edition 1 was in yellow gold, Edition 2 in rose, and Edition 3 in white gold. At the same time, Mr Smith also offered custom versions of the Series 2, which were also available in a platinum case. But as it turned out, most clients wanted a custom watch, rather than an Edition example. So Mr Smith discreetly abandoned Edition not long after, and only a five of each Edition were made. This is on...
Time+Tide
Panerai has just dropped a quintet of new, boutique-only watches and they are straight fire. These watches, called the Mediterraneo Edition, are all in Radiomir 1940 cases, and include a 42mm steel automatic (PAM00933), a 45mm GMT and a 45mm GMT with power reserve (PAM00945 and PAM00946 respectively), a red gold 45mm automatic (PAM00934), and … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: 5 new Panerai Radiomir 1940s – the Mediterraneo Edition, inspired by the deep blue sea appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
In Conversation: Karl-Friedrich Scheufele Part 2 of 3. Qualitie Fleurier Foundation, the support for Fairmined Gold, and Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud.
Deployant
Just a year ago, we reviewed the Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 Tourbillon with Three Golden Bridges. We were amazed by the design and quality of the watch. Not to be disappointed, Girard Perregaux's latest release at Baselworld 2016, the Girard Perregaux Esmeralda Tourbillon has once again impressed us with its high quality craftsmanship and mechanical expertise.
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