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Results for IWC Caliber 52000

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Type Casting: Comparing The Breguet Type XX And Type XXI Chronographs Hodinkee
Breguet Oct 3, 2021

Type Casting: Comparing The Breguet Type XX And Type XXI Chronographs

The Type XX and Type XXI chronographs don’t seem to get quite as much attention as you would think they’d get, at least in the USA, where the world of pilot’s chronographs skews much more heavily towards companies like IWC, Omega, and Breitling. Maybe part of the reason for that is that when you think of tool watches, you might think of an awful lot of companies but Breguet just isn’t one of them – tourbillons, certainly, and a history of making aesthetically irreproachable, often complicated, and very elegant watches from the end of the 18th century right down until the present day, but not tool watches as such. And yet, aviation is perhaps just as important a part of the Breguet family’s history as watchmaking, with the Type XX and XXI chronographs representing one of the most important aspects of the inventiveness that characterized Abraham Louis Breguet and his descendants.

Up Close: Citizen Series 8 Automatic SJX Watches
Citizen Series 8 Automatic I Sep 21, 2021

Up Close: Citizen Series 8 Automatic

I was impressed by the Caliber 0200 that Citizen unveiled earlier in the year. A new design with an integrated bracelet and an automatic movement developed from scratch, the Caliber 0200 costs US$6,000 – more than the typical Citizen – it is unquestionably a value proposition. The level of fit and finish, especially on the case and bracelet, surpasses practically everything else at that price. Still, US$6,000 is not affordable for everyone. Citizen soon followed up with the Series 8, a line of watches similar to the Caliber 0200 in style but far more accessible price-wise, with the base model starting at US$1,200. Like the Caliber 0200, the Series 8 outperforms in its far lower price segment. The Series 8 is made up of three models – 830, 831, and 870 – but the standout is the 870, the watch pictured below. Citizen loaned me one for a few days, an experience that confirmed my initial impressions. Initial thoughts The Series 8 watches are all excellent at their respective price points, but the 870 impressed me the most – it’s the most expensive but paradoxically the best value. Admittedly, the 870 is yet another sports watch with an integrated bracelet. The familiarity of the concept makes it more difficult for a new entrant to succeed. One benchmark for success in this category is design – the watch has to look good while avoiding being derivative. And another is competitive pricing, since most fresh arrivals in the space can’t compete with the establishm...

Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar: the sports chronograph with an unusual calendar Deployant
Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Sep 4, 2021

Breitling Super Chronomat 44 Four-Year Calendar: the sports chronograph with an unusual calendar

Overall we enjoyed the look and feel of the watch. It brought to mind Omega's Speedmaster and its calendar sibiling. Or even more distant, IWC's Ingenier or GST calendar. The contrasting materials and colors gave the watch a sporty look, and the size came with substantial wrist presence. The downside of course, is a rather hefty sports watch more suited for those with thicker wrists.

Up Close: Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m SJX Watches
Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 Aug 16, 2021

Up Close: Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m

Historically best known for ultra-advanced quartz and solar-powered watches – including the most accurate watch ever – Citizen has been on a tear recently with good, old-fashioned mechanical watches. The Japanese watchmaker started the year the high-end with The Citizen Caliber 0200, and then moved onto something more accessible but still sporting an integrated bracelet. More recently it took the covers off the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m ref. NB6004-08E. Oversized and aggressively styled, the new Promaster is eminently affordable – retail is about US$1,000 – but kitted out with impressive features, including a hardened case as well as a magnetism-resistant in-house movement, which makes it excellent value. (And it has a cool, glow-in-the-dark buckle.) Initial thoughts In my early days as a watch enthusiast, I had a soft spot for Seiko dive watches, because they were diverse in style and budget friendly. Citizen, on the other hand, didn’t feature as much, because it only offered one or two notable mechanical dive watches as the company largely focused on solar-powered watches (and still does). But Citizen is expanding its repertoire at a measured pace, but making tremendous progress. The Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m is a single model, but offered in several variants (though availability of each version varies throughout the world). Citizen lent me the base model – brushed titanium with a black dial – for a few days. On paper, the watch is high s...

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Marble Edition SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces Jul 26, 2021

Chanel Introduces the Monsieur Marble Edition

While Chanel started the year with the J12 in rainbow colours inspired by electronic dance music, its latest is sleek and stark in black and white. The Monsieur Marble Edition is a variation of the Monsieur Edition Noire from 2019, retaining the same steel and ceramic case – and the in-house Caliber 1 movement – but matched with a dial in glossy black marble with white veining. Initial thoughts I liked the original Monsieur de Chanel when it was launched in 2016. Even though Chanel is a primarily fashion house, the Monsieur was proof it made excellent watches for men. Its design was thoughtful, and the movement attractively executed in both style and construction. The subsequent Monsieur in black ceramic had all the same qualities, but an monochromatic look that made it more appealing. And the new version is even more appealing, because the marble dial looks good. Even though the only change is the marble dial, its natural grain goes well with the design of the Monsieur, so the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Price wise, however, the new Monsieur is harder to digest. At just under US$37,000, it costs almost US$10,000 more than the original version in ceramic, which was a reasonable-enough proposition considering the design and movement. The Marble Edition is unquestionably beautiful – I’d want one – but the price is steep. Black and white Each dial is made of one piece of marble carefully cut into three to form each section of the dial, allowing the ...

INTRODUCING: The new Oris Hölstein Edition is a cool grey vision of a Big Crown future Time+Tide
Oris Hölstein Edition Jun 1, 2021

INTRODUCING: The new Oris Hölstein Edition is a cool grey vision of a Big Crown future

The Oristas out there eagerly anticipate the annual Oris Hölstein Edition, and the Big Crown is a beloved staple of the range. Recent additions have been strong with the new Caliber 400 making its Aquis debut, and the Big Crown cherry-candy delight of Fratello’s bronze-cased limited edition here. Despite the distinctive looks of the short-lugged … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The new Oris Hölstein Edition is a cool grey vision of a Big Crown future appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Nature Of Time: 4 Watches For 24 Seasons Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko Nature Apr 23, 2021

Grand Seiko Nature Of Time: 4 Watches For 24 Seasons

The Grand Seiko Nature of Time is a collection of four watches celebrating the Japanese system of dividing the year into 24 small seasons called sekki. Two of the watches have stainless steel cases and are powered by a mechanical high-beat caliber, while the other two are housed in titanium and run on Spring Drive Caliber 9R65. And let's have a look at those 'seasoned' dials!

Citizen Unveils an Affordable, Integrated-Bracelet Sports Watch SJX Watches
Citizen Unveils Apr 4, 2021

Citizen Unveils an Affordable, Integrated-Bracelet Sports Watch

Unveiled alongside the flagship The Citizen Caliber 0200, the Series 8 is a line of affordable, integrated-bracelet sports watches equipped with slim automatic movements that have increased magnetism resistance. The Series 8 is made up of three sub-collections: the 870, 830, and 831. All are similar, but have different case and dial constructions, as well as different movements, but are all accessibly priced affordable, starting at $1,200 for the 831 and rising to US$2,000 for the 870. Initial thoughts The Series 8 is essentially a luxury-sports watch done accessibly – the case is angular and faceted, with both brushed and polished surfaces finishes, while the bracelet is integrated. While the styling brings to mind several other well-known watch designs, the Series 8 watches are not outright copies, which is a good thing, especially at this price range where originality harder to find. The 870 with its two-piece bezel The 830 with its three-layer dial of mother of pearl under a metal lattice Though all three models are slightly different, they are almost identical in size at 40 mm wide and a relatively thin 10-12 mm high. That’s a good size that large enough but not so big that the watch feels chunky, which is likely for this type of design beyond a certain size. The 870 with its two-colour bezel seems the most appealing of the trio, with both its case and bracelet being more streamlined. Both the 830 and 831 have the same case that’s slightly octagonal, which m...

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Offshore 42mm Collection with a new movement and interchangeable strap system Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Offshore Mar 18, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Offshore 42mm Collection with a new movement and interchangeable strap system

Audemars Piguet is coming in hot for 2021, and AP is not pulling any punches. It is clear the plan is to usher in a new era of timepieces, and in particular the Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Offshore collection is home to two brand new innovations: an all new in-house caliber and the first-ever … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Offshore 42mm Collection with a new movement and interchangeable strap system appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Here’s why a Patek Philippe can take six (or more) years to make – a timeline Time+Tide
Patek Philippe can take six or Jan 19, 2021

Here’s why a Patek Philippe can take six (or more) years to make – a timeline

When a watch enthusiast approaches a timepiece, they usually ask about specifications like case diameter or movement caliber first. Most people, however, will first want to know the price. It can prove a bit of a shock that such a small object can have such a high price tag. It is no secret that luxury … ContinuedThe post Here’s why a Patek Philippe can take six (or more) years to make – a timeline appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Nick’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Cartier, Seiko and Hamilton Time+Tide
Grand Seiko launched Jan 7, 2021

Nick’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Cartier, Seiko and Hamilton

In spite of some not inconsiderable distractions, there were some pretty decent watches released in 2020. Quite a few of them actually. Omega relaunched their serially produced caliber 321, Bulgari executed the Octo Finissimo in steel, Grand Seiko launched an entirely new escapement in their SLGH002 and DOXA brought their most iconic design into the … ContinuedThe post Nick’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Cartier, Seiko and Hamilton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The gold and the beautiful: the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Dec 11, 2020

The gold and the beautiful: the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold

Editor’s note: This year at Hublot has focused heavily on celebrating the 40th anniversary of the brand, but there was another important new chapter in the history book of the masters of fusion. The in-house Meca-10 movement, a caliber that has been restricted to the classically round Big Bang case, was set free into the … ContinuedThe post The gold and the beautiful: the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The technical tour de force of the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium Time+Tide
Hublot Spirit Dec 11, 2020

VIDEO: The technical tour de force of the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium

Hublot don’t do things by half. If they do something, they do it full throttle, and you can see that in the in-house movements they produce. You won’t find a simple three-handed caliber; no, instead you’ll find chronographs, tourbillons and some of the most impressive power reserves in the game. Of their in-house movements, this … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The technical tour de force of the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Titanium appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Two new Grand Seiko watches – Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary & Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Editions Deployant
Grand Seiko watches – Kintaro Hattori Nov 10, 2020

Two new Grand Seiko watches – Kintaro Hattori 160th Anniversary & Seiko 140th Anniversary Limited Editions

As the year of the 160th anniversary of Seiko’s founder, Kintaro Hattori, draws to a close, Grand Seiko  proudly celebrates his life and achievements with a Spring Drive masterpiece. The watch is powered by Caliber 9R02 and features a Platinum 950 case with indexes and hour and minute hands in 14K white gold. A secondRead More

Business News: Richemont Six-Month Watch Sales Plunge 38% SJX Watches
Cartier Nov 7, 2020

Business News: Richemont Six-Month Watch Sales Plunge 38%

Richemont just reported its sales for the first half of the financial year – the six months to end September 2020 – and most of the numbers are in the red. The Swiss luxury group that owns Cartier and IWC saw sales fall 26% year on year, though the quarterly numbers show a gradual recovery. Sales were down by 47% in the first quarter but recovered enough to dip just 6% in the second quarter, owing to a gradual reopening of the economy. This no doubt inspired optimism amongst investors, who sent the group’s share price up almost 9% by the close of trading. Optimism notwithstanding, the declines extended to all performance metrics. Operating margin fell sharply to just 8.3%, almost half that for the same period in 2019. The falls in sales and margins collectively led to stark, 82% fall in operating profit. Net profit cratered, going from €869m in the first half of 2019 to just €159m. Beyond the negative numbers, the report was also notable for what it did not include. With rumours swirling about changes to Richemont management at the very top level – particularly about the tenure of chief executive Jerome Lambert – it was widely speculated the results announcement would include personnel changes, but nothing was forthcoming. Woe for watches and everywhere but Asia The global pandemic meant a global fall in sales, but with drops varying from region to region. As expected, Asia Pacific performed the best, with sales falling just 4%. Negative growth in the fir...