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RECOMMENDED READING: The remarkable innovation of the Patek Philippe Solar Clock Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Solar Clock While Patek Jan 31, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: The remarkable innovation of the Patek Philippe Solar Clock

While Patek Philippe are kept most popularly in the mind today through a handful of steel sports watches and the lyrics of chart-topping songs, the company has a history of remarkable innovation that is sometimes overlooked. In the middle of last century - 1950 to be precise - the Genevan firm released a solar-powered table clock, an … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: The remarkable innovation of the Patek Philippe Solar Clock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

4 of the most surprising Rado watches of 2019 Time+Tide
Rado watches Jan 31, 2020

4 of the most surprising Rado watches of 2019

2019 was the year that Rado solidified their intent to deliver watches that not only pleased a loyal fanbase but surprised and captured the imagination of watch enthusiasts new to the brand. Everything from classically proportioned dress watches, to handsome and rugged tool watches and even bold reissues were released by the Swiss marque, to … ContinuedThe post 4 of the most surprising Rado watches of 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jan 31, 2020

Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste

Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled a trio of grand complications last year, a substantial number given how complex each watch is, although two of the three are powered by existing movements. The Master Grande Tradition Répétition Minutes Perpétuelle (the only one equipped with a new calibre) and the Gyrotourbillon 3 Meteorite were launched first, and late in the year came the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Céleste to mark 15 years of partnership with the Venice International Film Festival. Among the brand’s grand complications, the Tourbillon Celeste is one of the most interesting, boasting a quirky combinations of functions – an orbital, flying tourbillon calibrated for sidereal time as well as a star chart, and sidereal annual calendar. And it is also unusually high tech for a Jaeger-LeCoultre, with the movement being equipped with a silicon escape wheel and pallet fork. A simpler complication As with most of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s recent grand complications, the movement in the Tourbillon Céleste is an iteration of an earlier calibre – something the brand has made a habit of in recent years, which is a bit of a shame given its rich history in movement development. Specifically, the movement inside is a streamlined and simplified version of the more complicated Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication, which was launched in 2010 and also included a minute repeater. Being a separate module mounted on the case-back side of the movement, the repeater was s...

Business News: Swatch Group Annual Profit Falls with Hong Kong Slowdown SJX Watches
Longines just announced Jan 30, 2020

Business News: Swatch Group Annual Profit Falls with Hong Kong Slowdown

Hong Kong’s political unrest has resulted in the first fall in annual profits at the Swatch Group since 2018. The world’s biggest watchmaking group, which owns brands like Omega and Longines, just announced its 2019 results, showing declines in both sales and profits. Net profit fell 13.7%, while sales declined 1.8% at constant exchange rates, or 2.7% at current rates, to 8.24 billion francs. The drops in profit and sales were primarily due to a drastic contraction of its business in Hong Kong – a city with a population of just 7.4 million – where Swatch Group owns over 90 retail stores, largely catering to shoppers from the China. Sales in Hong Kong for the second half of 2019 fell by 200 million francs. While Hong Kong was the key driver of the decline, it was not the only one. The luxury watch business in general is suffering from anaemic growth, which is also evidenced by the watch division results at diversified luxury groups like LVMH and Kering. On a more positive note, Swatch Group has managed to fulfil its stated aims of reducing operating expenditure and thinning inventory. Operating expenses dipped about 6%, while operating cash flow rose 30% in 2019. And after several consecutive years of growth, the group’s inventories declined by 1% in 2019, to a still-substantial 6.85 billion francs at cost. It’ll be a slow 2020… With Swatch Group predicting the situation in Hong Kong will continue to be “challenging” in 2020, it is in a weaker positio...

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Limited Editions SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces Jan 30, 2020

Grand Seiko Introduces the 60th Anniversary Limited Editions

Originally unveiled as a sub-brand of Seiko in 1960 dedicated entirely to high-precision wristwatches – and only sold in Japan for most of that time – Grand Seiko has now become an independent brand. This year is the 60th anniversary of its founding, and the occasion is being commemorated with a quartet of limited editions (with perhaps more to come later in the year), including two quartz watches powered by the 9F85, a new, top-of-the-line quartz movement. All of the anniversary editions feature a dial in dark blue, one of Grand Seiko’s signature colours, albeit executed in different materials or finishes, ranging from a stamped pattern to mother of pearl. All of the men’s models also have a red seconds hand, creating a red and blue aesthetic that’s uncommon for Grand Seiko. The flagship 60th anniversary watch is the Heritage Collection Hi-Beat 36000 Limited Edition (SBGH281), a variant of the 44GS “modern reinterpretation” that features broad, mirror-polished case flanks that are steeply sloped, a distinguishing characteristic of the 44GS case style. It’s powered by the 9S85, an automatic movement operated at 36,000 beats per hour, hence the “Hi-Beat” label.  Only 1,500 will be made. The Hi-Beat limited edition also features a gold “GS” logo on the dial The other mechanical model in the anniversary line-up is the Elegance Collection Women’s Automatic Limited Edition (STGK015), powered by the 9S27 automatic movement. Its dial is dark-blue mother...

“Watch & Act!” Auction – The Final Additions #2 Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Unique Piece Autavia Caliber Jan 30, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction – The Final Additions #2

Finally, we have the last additions to the “Watch & Act!” Auction. Lot 22: TAG Heuer – Unique Piece, Autavia Caliber 5 ‘Watch & Act!’ Edition First released in 2019, this collection represented the first time the name Autavia had been given to a time-only watch, which is originally a portmanteau of automobile and aviation … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction – The Final Additions #2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 18: Montblanc Heritage with a sleek salmon dial Time+Tide
Montblanc Heritage Jan 30, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 18: Montblanc Heritage with a sleek salmon dial

Montblanc’s Heritage Collection draws inspiration heavily from the watchmaker Minerva and the timepieces they produced in the ’40s and ’50s. And there’s a very good reason why – Montblanc owns the once great Minerva. As a result, we get great-looking watches like this – the Montblanc Heritage Automatic. Replete with its period correct and vogue … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 18: Montblanc Heritage with a sleek salmon dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 17: A gorgeous green Middle Eastern Limited Edition Bell & Ross Time+Tide
Bell & Ross Jan 30, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 17: A gorgeous green Middle Eastern Limited Edition Bell & Ross

This eye-catching special edition, launched at the Dubai Watch Week 2019, features a satin-finished steel case and lush starburst dial inspired by the green in the UAE flag – a colour chosen to inspire hope, growth and prosperity – and four Hindi Arabic numerals painted in Super-LumiNova. This is the first Bell & Ross model … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 17: A gorgeous green Middle Eastern Limited Edition Bell & Ross appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

How could a humble watch bracelet win a watch fair? The Hublot Big Bang Integral just did exactly that, but why? How? Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral just Jan 29, 2020

How could a humble watch bracelet win a watch fair? The Hublot Big Bang Integral just did exactly that, but why? How?

OK, let’s dispense with any hype and get down to it. Sixty per cent of watches are sold on a bracelet and this is a fact that Hublot are finally set to take advantage of with the Hublot Big Bang Integral, a new collection, freshly launched at the LVMH fair in Dubai in early January. … ContinuedThe post How could a humble watch bracelet win a watch fair? The Hublot Big Bang Integral just did exactly that, but why? How? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Van Cleef & Arpels Pierre Arpels: An Intertwined History – Reprise Quill & Pad
Cartier Jan 29, 2020

Van Cleef & Arpels Pierre Arpels: An Intertwined History – Reprise

Many of the great marques in the history of watchmaking were driven by prominent figures who ended up with a watch named after them. Such was the case for both Louis Cartier and Pierre Arpels. Both were born into jewelry and watch dynasties and both made prominent marks on the histories of their respective houses. How else are they intertwined? Martin Green explains here.

Crime or Sublime: Dive watches on leather straps Time+Tide
Jan 29, 2020

Crime or Sublime: Dive watches on leather straps

It’s Thursday, and that can mean only one thing - it’s time for Nicholas Kenyon & James Robinson to engage in another jousting of words over a watch-related point of contention. In this week’s office argument, the two pontificate whether or not it’s OK to wear dive watches on leather straps. James Robinson – The For … ContinuedThe post Crime or Sublime: Dive watches on leather straps appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: De Grisogono Declares Bankruptcy SJX Watches
Jan 29, 2020

Business News: De Grisogono Declares Bankruptcy

Swiss jeweller De Grisogono, which in its prime was one of the most extravagant brands on the planet, has just filed for bankruptcy in Geneva, as a result of Luanda Leaks, the financial scandal that has engulfed Isabel dos Santos, the daughter of Angola’s former president, reports Swiss newspapers Tribune de Geneve and Le Temps. Luanda Leaks, a trove of leaked documents published by investigative news organisation ICIJ, revealed Angolan state funds were allegedly channeled to Ms dos Santos, helping make her the richest woman in Africa. Even before the leaked documents, Ms dos Santos and her family were already under pressure from her father’s successor, who has vowed to root out corruption in the oil-rich African nation. According to the documents, a portion of went to fund De Grisogono, which was acquired by a Angolan investors in 2012. The investment was led by Ms dos Santos’ husband, Sindika Dokolo, but allegedly funded by Sodiam, Angola’s state-owned diamond company. With De Grisogono continuing to lose money since 2012, the brand’s owners had been hawking De Grisogono for some time with no luck, and Luanda Leaks were the final nail in the coffin – the brand declared bankruptcy on Tuesday, January 28, 2020. The King of Black Diamonds Founded by Fawaz Gruosi in 1993, De Grisogono was perhaps most famous for its incredibly lavish annual party at the Cannes Film Festival – reputedly costing as much as 3 million francs in some years – that everyone who ...

Hands-On: Urwerk UR-100 Gunmetal SJX Watches
Urwerk UR-100 Gunmetal Last year Jan 29, 2020

Hands-On: Urwerk UR-100 Gunmetal

Last year Urwerk launched the UR-100 SpaceTime, a watch that installed the brand’s signature wandering hours satellite display in newly designed watch case. Unsurprisingly the UR-100 SpaceTime became a brisk seller, not only because it is the most affordable model in the catalogue, but also because its case is compact and relatively conventional in shape, making it the most wearable Urwerk watch by far. And so Urwerk has followed up with the UR-100 Gunmetal, a new variant that arrives just four months after four months after the model was launched. It feels a little bit too soon for another edition, but the Gunmetal is different enough – and the original versions are almost sold out – that it can be forgiven. Steel in disguise While the case of the new UR-100 remains the same design, the finish is unusual. The material looks like titanium, even up close it resembles titanium, but in the hand it is obviously too heavy to be titanium. The case is actually steel, which has been sandblasted to give it a smooth, matte finish and then coated with a dark grey coating. That’s a bit of a surprise, because watch cases that look like titanium are almost always titanium. But Urwerk’s rationale for using steel is practical: hard-coated steel is more resistant to scratches than titanium, which is generally quite soft. The result is watch that has a strong sci-fi military look, like a piece of kit used by the Marines in Aliens, which is very much Urwerk’s original house styl...

Why the serpent is so important to Bulgari Time+Tide
Bulgari Editor’s note Jan 29, 2020

Why the serpent is so important to Bulgari

Editor’s note: The serpent is a central part of Bulgari’s iconography, and has been for the last eight decades since it first entwined women’s wrists in the 1940s. While the design has refined over years, shedding old aesthetics in favour of a newer expression of the same feminine elegance, its power as a symbol of … ContinuedThe post Why the serpent is so important to Bulgari appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Forget the Rolex Daytona on Antiques Roadshow, here are three watches to stash in your safe now Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona Jan 29, 2020

Forget the Rolex Daytona on Antiques Roadshow, here are three watches to stash in your safe now

If you’re reading this, then chances are you’ve already seen the amazing video on America’s Antiques Roadshow of a US Air Force veteran and his mint Rolex Daytona Ref.6263. If not, stop reading this and watch the below video right now: I think we can all agree … this is a pretty staggering video. And it … ContinuedThe post Forget the Rolex Daytona on Antiques Roadshow, here are three watches to stash in your safe now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: Benoît Mintiens, Founder of Ressence SJX Watches
Ressence Jan 28, 2020

Interview: Benoît Mintiens, Founder of Ressence

The left field of watchmaking has yielded many unusual and exotic time displays, but few have the same sense of function and purpose as Ressence. In fact, the essence of the brand is its name, which is short for the “Renaissance of the Essential”. Perhaps a key ingredient of the renaissance is the fact that its founder is not a watchmaker. Ressence was founded a decade ago by Benoît Mintiens, a Belgian industrial designer whose past work included trains, newsstands, and luggage. From the start, the identity of Ressence was crystal clear. The brand’s debut line of watches had dials that relied on a planetary gear mechanism to indicate the time (as well as a crown, which has since been removed from all its watches). Akin to a 21st century regulator-style display, it was an avant-garde way of displaying time, while still surprisingly intuitive. Benoit Mintiens Even more surprising was the longevity of the planetary time display, which has since spawned various iterations, often accompanied by novel innovations ranging from the oil-filled time display in the Type 3, to the more recent Type 2 that’s a mechanical watch that can set itself thanks to an electronic module. When Benoît visited Singapore in late 2019, I got a chance to explore his design philosophy, especially on how his background in industrial design helped inform his unique approach to watchmaking. He also delved into the subtleties of a Ressence wristwatch, and dropped a few hints about a new time ...

13 of the best watches on bracelets from 2019 Time+Tide
Jan 28, 2020

13 of the best watches on bracelets from 2019

Watches on bracelets are great for a multitude of reasons. They are both durable and comfortable, relatively easy to adjust and aren’t ruined if you go swimming with them … all pointing to it being hard to go wrong if you get a watch with a bracelet. Besides, it’s always better to buy your watch … ContinuedThe post 13 of the best watches on bracelets from 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 15: A moon dance with Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture Time+Tide
Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture Jan 27, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 15: A moon dance with Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture

The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture Fratello Exclusive is produced in a limited run of 29 pieces, and are all individually numbered on the caseback. The 42mm 3 parts-case holds a convex sapphire crystal and clear caseback revealing the inner workings of the FC-712 caliber. The two counters of the moonphase and date are respectively … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 15: A moon dance with Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Manufacture appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 13: DOXA – Celebrating 130 Years of DOXA Time+Tide
Doxa Celebrating 130 Years Jan 27, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 13: DOXA – Celebrating 130 Years of DOXA

Released at Baselworld 2019, this SUB 200 130th Anniversary Limited Edition diver’s watch was profoundly popular, and the run of 130 pieces sold out almost before it was released. Time+Tide’s own stock of this model, 30 pieces, was sold in just under two hours. We are offering our own archive piece for sale here, brand … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 13: DOXA – Celebrating 130 Years of DOXA appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 12: A crisp classic from Frederique Constant Time+Tide
Frederique Constant Jan 27, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 12: A crisp classic from Frederique Constant

This classic three-handed model from Frederique Constant, with gloss black dial, is a dress watch par excellence. It is presented here with high-polished baton indices, razor-sharp sword hands and an elegant crocodile strap. It is generously donated by Sydney’s Wamada Jewellery, Watchfest and the Sydney Chinese Community. The Classics Index Automatic is a symphony of … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 12: A crisp classic from Frederique Constant appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 11: The ceramic Bausele pilot’s watch with a difference Time+Tide
Bausele pilot’s watch Jan 27, 2020

“Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 11: The ceramic Bausele pilot’s watch with a difference

The Bausele Pilot Automatic All Black features an unusual and eye-catching dial layout. The dial has been rotated, moving the 12 from where it normally sits to what is traditionally the two o’clock position. Built with the modern aviator in mind, it is a functional choice, allowing the time to be easily read without removing … ContinuedThe post “Watch & Act!” Auction Item – Lot 11: The ceramic Bausele pilot’s watch with a difference appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.