Revolution
Zooming In With Thomas Perazzi on Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction: X
Wei Koh and Ross Povey chat with Thomas Perazzi, head of Phillips Watches in Asia on their picks from the upcoming Hong Kong Watch Auction: X.
Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys
31,907 articles · 176 videos found · page 896 of 1070
Revolution
SJX Watches
Parmigiani Introduces the Tonda GT Collection
Following up the more complex Toric Tourbillon Slate, Parmigiani is launching its first ever luxury-sports watch, the Tonda GT. Founded in 1996 by highly-regarded independent watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, the brand specialises in complicated watches like the tubular, Bugatti-inspired Type 390. A departure from the brand’s usual far in both form and price, the Tonda GT line comprises a time-and-date base model, the Tonda GT, as well as the star of the show: the Tondagraph GT chronograph with annual calendar. Tondagraph GT Both are sports watches, with screw-down crowns and water resistance of 100 m. But they takes they cues from past Parmigiani designs, but translated into a more angular, modern shape. The knurled bezel, for instance, takes inspiration from the Toric, the brand’s very first wristwatch. And the dials are decorated with traditional clous triangulaire guilloché. Initial thoughts The new watches add a more casual, sporty offering to the Tonda collection. With distinct designs that don’t ride on the styling of Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Parmigiani is offering a unique and well-priced line that’s suited to both the great outdoors and more formal occasions. Importantly, the Tonda GT is attractively priced, given the high quality of execution and in-house movements. Parmigiani makes almost all components in-house or at its sister companies, and if its current watches are anything to go by, the fit and finish on the Tonda GT will be as good a...
Time+Tide
Which Grand Seiko Snowflake is right for you? Four models that show the stunning dial’s diversity
Editor’s note: When people talk about the Grand Seiko Snowflake as being one watch, they are in fact forgoing the many and varied shades of snow that Grand Seiko has showered us with since the OG became almost a pillar in itself. Here, we choose a Snowflake for every season, to show the nuance and … ContinuedThe post Which Grand Seiko Snowflake is right for you? Four models that show the stunning dial’s diversity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097
Breguet is one of the grandest names in watchmaking, and mostly makes watches that are rooted in its history. The aptly named Tradition exudes, well, tradition. Modelled on the souscription pocket watch created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796, the wide-ranging collection has been gently modernised in recent years. The newly-announced Tradition Automatique Seconde Rétrograde 7097 continues that trend, with a dark blue guilloché dial against a grey movement. Initial thoughts This version of the Tradition 7097 is possibly my favourite yet, mostly because of the off-centre dial in blue. Engine-turned by hand, the blue dial is striking against the monochromatic movement. And it looks especially appealing when compared against the earlier versions that have plainer and more conventional silvered dials, which offer less contrast against the movement. But as with all other Tradition watches, there’s a nit to pick here: the serial number plaque on the dial makes it look a bit cluttered, especially since the dial is small to begin with. One solution would be to put the serial numbers beside the Breguet logo, as done on the female Tradition Dame 7038. And while I like the retrograde seconds, its position feels awkward as it cuts into the sub-dial. Though intersecting indicators are a feature in some historical Breguet pocket watches, the face of the Tradition is a bit too small to accommodate it comfortably. The white gold case is in classic Breguet style a delicately-fluted ...
Revolution
Zooming In With Michael Young, Founder of UNDONE Watches
Michael Young, founder of UNDONE watches a little about his background in and outside of the watch industry, what made him establish UNDONE Watches and why UNDONE Watches has slowly become the talk of the collecting community.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: Ollech & Wajs are the tool watch company you should check out if utilitarian is your thing
This week on Micro Mondays, we are looking at a brand that is a little older than most of the watch manufacturers we feature in this column - Ollech & Wajs. And what a story the company has … This might be one of the best-kept secrets in the watch industry, with the Zurich-based company … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Ollech & Wajs are the tool watch company you should check out if utilitarian is your thing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two: It’s Mind Blowing! (Live Photos)
Bovet Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter Two: the story continues. Indications include hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve, moon phase, and a world time/second time zone display. All of which is powered by an entirely new double-sided flying tourbillon movement with totally new architecture. Warning: it may blow your mind!
Deployant
Throwback Sundays: Six recommendations for watches with seconde morte
We recommend six watches with seconde morte: from F. P. Journe, A. Lange & Söhne, Petermann Bedat, Habring², Jaeger-LeCoultre and Arnold & Son.
Deployant
The Arnold & Son HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine
The HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine offers a spectacular solid gold moon phase sitting above the sparkling blue aventurine quartz dial and paired with an in-house Arnold & Son mechanical calibre. Demonstrating its British history and Swiss savoir-faire, Arnold & Son presents the HM Perpetual Moon with a beautifully decorative blue aventurine quartz dial, limited toRead More
Quill & Pad
An Open Letter To Watch Brand CEOs: Why You Should Enter The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
The time is now, according to GaryG, for large watch brands to seize the opportunity to make a real difference to the health of the mechanical watch industry and the prosperity of their brands. He thinks that 2020 is the year for CEOs to commit to entering their best new pieces in the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).
SJX Watches
Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Watch Auction
Watch auction season is in full swing, two months later than its usual May timing. Phillips will be staging The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X on July 10, with 269 lots slated to go under the hammer. The catalogue includes a wide-ranging line-up of big-ticket complications, as well as some interesting examples of independent watchmaking. Below we take a look at a couple of highlights from the complications category, and we’ll look at some of the independents next week. You’ll find the full auction catalogue here. For a more personal take on the highlights: myself and Phillips’ head of watches, Thomas Perazzi, will be hosting a webinar to discuss the highlights from the sale on July 6 at 4:00 pm GMT+8. Registration is required to attend, and you can do it here. Lot 816 – A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph “Pour le Mérite” in honey gold This A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph “Pour le Mérite” was part of the 165th Anniversary Homage to F.A. Lange three-piece set made in 2010 to commemorate the 165 years since the birth of the company’s namesake founder. Made up of the Tourbograph, Lange 1 Tourbillon, and 1815 Moon Phase, the set was characterised by honey gold cases and guilloche dials. The most complicated Lange wristwatch aside from the monumentally unwearable Grand Complication, the Tourbograph incorporates a tourbillon, rattrapante chronograph, and fusée-and-chain transmission. It was first launched in 2005 as a limited edition of 50 with a platinum case, with th...
Time+Tide
The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 brings the colour we all need in a dark year at a budget-friendly price
There’s very little that hasn’t been done in watchmaking. That’s part of what makes vintage-inspired new releases so popular among watch enthusiasts, especially for diving styles. Mido’s Ocean Star range has sat in this bracket, earning a good reputation for solidly built and classically handsome dive watches for their affordable cost; however, they toed the … ContinuedThe post The Mido Ocean Star Decompression Timer 1961 brings the colour we all need in a dark year at a budget-friendly price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Chillout TGIF: Micro Four Thirds camera systems - the best for watch photography?
Why we think Micro Four Thirds (MFT) is one of the best systems to photograph watches. With samples and experiences from Peter Chong & Peter Nievaart.
Time+Tide
OPINION: Will COVID hammer the final nail into the coffin of the dress watch?
Having moved house last year, I finally got around to collecting the last remaining items from our storage facility last weekend. All that was left was a forlorn collection of those random bits and pieces that you barely use, but can’t quite stomach throwing out. There was a box of bedraggled Christmas decorations, a tennis … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Will COVID hammer the final nail into the coffin of the dress watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
John McGonigle Debuts with the Oileán H-B1
Hailing from Ireland’s most famous watchmaking family, John McGonigle is best known for being one half of the two brothers behind McGonigle Watches (and another brother is the chief instructor at the world-class watch school in Cambodia). Having decided to strike out on his own last year – an amicable parting resulting from logistical challenges of working with his brother who is based in Switzerland – Mr McGonigle has just launched his own brand, Oileán, Gaelic for “island”, a nod to his home of Ireland. Pronounced “ill-awn”, the brand is making its debut with the Oileán H-B1, a triple-calendar chronograph powered by a new-old-stock Valjoux 88 movement. John McGonigle Initial thoughts Well regarded by collectors and peers, Mr McGonigle’s first watch under his new brand has a vintage movement inside a titanium case. It’s a manageable 40 mm in diameter, but slightly thick at 14.2 mm high, an inevitable consequence of the Valjoux 88. While the Valjoux 88 is not novel – it was widely used in the past – the calibre has been reworked a high standard. That includes several bridges and steel parts made from scratch, as well as hand finishing of all components. Because it is a triple-calendar chronograph “I’ve tried to apply the same rigour to this watch as I used to for the high complications I worked on in the past,” says Mr McGonigle. Going by Mr McGonigle’s past work it is no doubt done very well. The look is modern – the dial is smoked sa...
SJX Watches
You’re Invited: Webinar - Highlights from Hong Kong Watch Auction: X
Starting slightly later than usual, the auction season in Hong Kong starts in the second week of July, with Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: X happening on July 10 at the JW Marriott. The situation makes attending the sale in person difficult for most of us, so you’re invite to join myself and Thomas Perazzi, Phillips’ head of watches in Asia, for a webinar on July 6. We will discuss the highlights of the 269-lot sale, which is led by a Patek Philippe ref. 2499/100 and a possibly-unique ref. 3448 in white gold. Schedule The webinar will take place on July 6, 2020 at 04:00 pm GMT+8 (Singapore, Hong Kong, Beijing). And for other time zones: 06:00 pm GMT+10 (Sydney) 10:00 am GMT+2 (Berlin, Frankfurt, Milan, Geneva, Zurich) 09:00 am GMT+1 (London) 04:00 am GMT-4 (New York, Boston) 01:00 am GMT-7 (Vancouver) Registration is required to attend, and you can register right here.
Revolution
The King is Dead - Long Live The King!
Ross Povey tracks the lineage of Rolex’s most regal Oyster, the Air King, and discovers its reign has been nothing short of remarkable.
SJX Watches
Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Classic Origin Opaline
Laurent Ferrier is 10 years old, and to make the occasion the brand is launching the Classic Origin Opaline, a time-only, hand-wound watch with a slim, titanium case. In many ways, the new watch is a minimalist take on the standard Laurent Ferrier time-only watch – the style is beautiful, restrained, and typical of the brand, with a new(ish) and significantly simpler movement inside, allowing for a fairly affordable price. Initial thoughts The Classic Origin Opaline has the much-loved Laurent Ferrier look – fluid lines and elegant forms on the case and dial. And in the usual manner of the brand, the dial is unadorned but executed with fine materials – the hands and hour indices are solid white gold. The movement, however, falls a bit short. Laurent Ferrier’s earliest movements – the LF229.01 of the Galet Micro-Rotor and the LF619.01 of the Galet Tourbillon – were best-in-class calibres that excelled in construction, finishing, and details, which unfortunately set a very high bar. But since the company entered a prolonged period of management turmoil, its movements have lost the magic. The quality is still good, but they are no longer outstanding. The LF116.01 in the new Classic Origin Opaline is essentially a variant of the movement in the annual calendar and also found in the Bridge One with a reshaped base plate and bridges. It has large bridges with simple silhouettes, as well as solid, clean finishing. Granted, a handful of the traditional Laurent Ferrier f...
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Tradition Dame 7038
Based on the souscription calibre created by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1796, the Tradition is characterised by an open, symmetrical movement layout and an off-centered time display. The distinctive look has made it one of Breguet’s modern-day hits, though most variants of the Tradition have been watches for men. The latest Tradition Dame 7038 adds to the compact line-up of Tradition watches for ladies. Exclusive to boutiques, the Tradition Dame 7038 combines a dark, iridescent Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial with a deep-brown movement treatment. And unusually for Breguet, the watch is delivered with a matching clutch bag. Initial thoughts The off-centered, Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial was the first thing that caught my attention when this arrived in my inbox. With enigmatic colours that shimmer and vary between violet and green, Tahitian mother-of-pearl never fails to be captivating. Obtained from black-lipped oysters around Tahiti and French Polynesia, they are much rarer compared to white mother-of-pearls as was featured in the first Tradition Dame 7038, making this more appealing, not just for its colour but also the material. The brown undertones of the Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial are complemented by the brown treatment of the frosted finish on the movement and the rose gold case. In typical Breguet style, the mother-of-pear dial is finished in clous de paris engine-turning, a decorative touch that is tradition and always welcome as it adds visual interest to the ...
Time+Tide
EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: John is blown away by the dial of his Ming 17.06 Copper
While still in its infancy compared to the historical juggernauts of the horological world, Ming is already turning heads for all the right reasons. One of the heads they have turned is none other than John, who took a chance on a brand he hadn’t known a whole lot about and purchased the Ming 17.06 … ContinuedThe post EVERY WATCH TELLS A STORY: John is blown away by the dial of his Ming 17.06 Copper appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
How To Make A Milanese Bracelet (Video)
Our friends at The Watches TV recently visited Laurent Jolliet, the last “chain maker” in business in Switzerland according to Marc-André Deschoux. As Jolliet crafts his bracelets and chains fully by hand, Deschoux and crew were able to find out in detail how Milanese bracelets are made, an art form no longer formally taught, and share the secrets with us here.
Deployant
Review: The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked
We take a look at the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Tourbillon Openworked in rose gold and ponder upon what makes it so outstanding.
Hodinkee
Auctions: Antiquorum Sets Three New Rolex World Records
Subs and gold on a record-breaking weekend.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01313, where a dressy blue dial meets a proper diver
This year appears to be Year of the Luminor for Panerai. Having redefined the warranty with the lavishly lumed and 3D printed PAM01117, the introduction of the Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01313 sees a bit more restraint return, with classic Luminor design cues but a similarly luscious blue sunburst dial. With its technologically impressive three-day movement, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Panerai Luminor Marina PAM01313, where a dressy blue dial meets a proper diver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Review: Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Blue
Hands-on review of the Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton Blue - new to the BR luxury steel watch line, with high resolution photographs, wear review and analysis.
Hodinkee
A Closer Look At The Ref. 605 HU Patek World Timer, One Of Last Weekend's Star Lots
The last word in horological chic for the first generation of globetrotters and jet-setters.
Revolution
1996 Racing Speedmaster Reduced Launched by Michael Schumacher
Revolution takes a brief look at the story of the Speedmaster Reduced and one of its most noteworthy references, the looks at the 1996 Racing Launched by Michael Schumacher
WatchAdvice
Panerai Luminor Due Pam 00926 - Hands on review
Panerai take the Luminor from the beach to the boardroom with the 38mm Luminor Due, but does it work? No brand has contributed to the proliferation of the over sized watch trend of the 2000’s more than Panerai. Known for pushing the upper limits of wearability, Stallone excepted, the Firenze based manufacture has routinely pumped out watches with 47 and even 50mm cases. In fact, the standard Panerai case size is a meaty 44mm, and that’s not taking into account the brands most recognisable feature, the crown guard. It’s a well established fact that Panerai watches are big and hardy. So, what happens when the brand takes their famous Luminor case and scales down to 38mm? Surely that’s just not Panerai, or is it? Recently I acquired the 38mm Panerai Luminor Due Pam00926, Panerai’s answer to the industries shift towards smaller case sizes. For reference, I have a 17cm wrist or about 6.7 inches in old money. Panerai has been a brand that like many of my small wristed brethren, I have admired from afar. The story of a late 19th century jewelery store in Firenze Italy, taking the dive into making their own watches with the help of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, has long captured my imagination. Panerai are a brand with significance in the watchmaking world at large, they developed radium paint which is the basis for all luminous materials used on dials today. Their signature Luminor crown guard was a big step in the road to true water resistance in wristwatches. W...
Hodinkee
Best of Watchville: A Collected Man Showcases Five Watchmakers' Favorite Movements
And the choices just might surprise you.
Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Episode 94: Jeff Garlin
An actor, comedian, photographer, musician, and collector – what more could you want?