Hodinkee
Introducing: The IWC Portugieser Chronograph, Now With In-House Caliber 69355
A classic IWC timepiece gets a manufacture motor.
Results for Caliber 9S85
706 articles · 138 videos found · page 9 of 29
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Grand Seiko Sport Collection SBGV245, With Quartz Caliber 9F82
Clean, lean, and Grand Seiko through and through.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Caliber 321 Platinum
Fifty years after it went to the Moon, the engine inside the Apollo Moonwatches is once again powering a Speedmaster.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Omega De Ville Trésor 40mm With Manually-Wound Master Chronometer Caliber
A thoroughly modern take on a classic dress watch.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Moritz Grossmann Corner Stone, With The New Caliber 102.3
The (very) small world of rectangular movements just got a little bigger.
Video
Diving In The Deep: The Vibrant Certina DS Super PH2000M Sea Turtle Conservancy Goes To New Depths
@certinaofficial @SeaTurtleConservancy
Revolution
Urwerk Upgrades Its 105 Collection With Colour and A New Caliber!
Last year in my article ‘Coloured Dials! The World Between Black & White‘ I ended my post in saying something that I would not be surprised if the watch industry in general, would bring us more colour at Baselworld 2015. And indeed Baselworld presented some color this year, but the brand where I did not […]
Quill & Pad
Which Rolex Movement Takes the Top Spot? A Watchmaker’s Comparison of Rolex Calibers 3135 and 3235, plus Which is Better? - Reprise
Ask any watchmaker about the Rolex 31 family of calibers and the story will be the same: it has stood the test of time. Ashton Tracy hasn’t met a single watchmaker who doesn’t love working on these workhorse Rolex movements. They are easy to service, keep great time, and stand up to abuse. Put simply: they work. So how does it stand up to big brother, Find out right here!
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: The Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT “Flash Setting”
The story in a second: A rare case of quartz having legit enthusiast appeal, albeit in a clever, and very novel, fashion. Say “it’s quartz” and countless watch nerds cringe; however, there have been some exceptions to the rule over the years. Of course, Grand Seiko Spring Drive calibers get a pass on account of … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT “Flash Setting” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Krayon Parhelion, A Maximalist Take On The Brand’s Anywhere Watch
What We Know Pretty much anything that independent watch brand Krayon produces feels like it rests solidly in the if-you-know-you-know realm of exquisitely engineered high-end complications. The brand's focused catalog contains variations on three main complications—the universal sunrise and sunset calculator that is the Everywhere, the watchmaker-adjustable sunrise and sunset-indicating caliber that is the Anywhere, and the most recently introduced weekday and weekend pointer date display in the Anyday. Sure, Krayon's recent Pac-Man collaboration in a limited run of Anywhere watches might feel like an odd one out, but most of the examples I've seen on the wrists of collectors have all flown well under the radar with tastefully measured executions. But if you've ever wondered what a Krayon would look like with a touch—scratch that, a lot—of bling, well, the new Parhelion might just do the trick. It's hard to mistake this new watch for anything else in the catalog thanks to the sheer number of baguette-cut sapphires set across the entire watch—159 of them, to be exact. To house this number of gemstones, the case is 42mm in diameter, made from an alloy of white gold with a high percentage of palladium for a very white hue to match the brightness of the stones. Thickness, given the complication, is impressive at 9.5mm. When I first saw a prototype of the Parhelion a few months ago, only the bezel was inlaid with sapphires, in a stunning gradient from white to blue. Bu...
Fratello
Introducing: Three New Patek Philippe Nautilus References Celebrating The Watch’s 50th Anniversary
The Patek Philippe Nautilus returns in three new references that lean into the model’s archetypal design. They feature thin cases, clean dials, and a familiar architecture to celebrate 50 years of the Patek Philippe Nautilus. All three use the ultra-thin caliber 240, now with a commemorative mini-rotor engraving that pays homage to the model’s 1976 […] Visit Introducing: Three New Patek Philippe Nautilus References Celebrating The Watch’s 50th Anniversary to read the full article.
Video
Submariner of China - Sea-gull Ocean 300 Pro - unboxing & first impressions...
A special thank you to all the channel members:
Hodinkee
Introducing: Vacheron Constantin's Métiers d’Art 'Tribute to the Quest of Time'
The 20-piece limited edition is inspired by Vacheron Constantin's automaton clock masterpiece, also unveiled today, and combines the highest-end artistry with a brand-new complicated caliber.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Oris Big Crown Calibre 113
The brand's business calendar caliber with a 10-day power reserve is back.
Teddy Baldassarre
Valjoux 7750: The Story Of The World's Most Famous Chronograph
The Valjoux 7750 chronograph caliber has been a mainstay of the Swiss watch industry for more than 50 years, finding its way into hundreds of watch models, under many dozens of names, and providing the technical base for numerous high complications over the years. Why is it so ubiquitous and still such an enduring presence in the watch world today? Here is a brief history of the "workhorse" mechanism that became the world's most famous and familiar chronograph movement. Valjoux 7750 Roots: The Vallée de Joux Sunset over the Vallée de Joux In actuality, the origins of the Valjoux 7750 go back much longer than the half-century it has actually been on the market. The company that came to be called “Valjoux” started up at the very beginning of the 20th century, taking its original name, Reymond Frères SA, from its founders, brothers John and Charles Reymond. The company, which specialized in making mechanical chronograph movements for military and sport-oriented timekeepers, changed its name in 1929 to Valjoux - a shortened reference to the scenic Vallée de Joux in Switzerland, where it and many of its client watchmakers were located. The firm’s most successful and historically impactful creations included the manually wound, column-wheel-driven, monopusher Caliber 22, in 1914, and its even more significant successor, the smaller, longer-lived Caliber 23, in 1916. In honor of the founding brothers' surname, Valjoux movements were inscribed with a shield em...
Fratello
What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller?
The Rolex Land-Dweller was the most talked-about release of this year’s Watches and Wonders. Regardless of whether the watch appealed to everyone, due to the groundbreaking new caliber and revival of the Oysterquartz design, the general impact of the Land-Dweller was palpable. We had an opportunity to experience the 36mm and 40mm models during Watches […] Visit What’s The Perfect Size For The Rolex Land-Dweller? to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Zenith G.F.J. - A Vintage Chronometric Resurrection To Honor The Brand's Founder
A new collection, a newly reworked vintage Caliber 135, and Zenith's 160-year pursuit of accuracy.
Video
6 NEW Watch Releases You Need to See (June 2026)
Welcome to the watch release recap for the second week of June 2026. We have some interesting new watch models from Mido, Longines, Blancpain and more. Enjoy the video:)
Fratello
Hands-On With The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs SSH159, SSH161, SSH163, And Limited SSH158
It’s been only a few months since Seiko introduced the first Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs with the new caliber 5X83. Today, the Japanese brand unveils a quartet of chronographs powered by the same movement. The line is expanding with the standard-production SSH159, SSH161, and SSH163. Additionally, we get a titanium and ceramic limited edition, […] Visit Hands-On With The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs SSH159, SSH161, SSH163, And Limited SSH158 to read the full article.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 Classic Valjoux 72-Powered Watches - Featuring Rolex, Enicar, Breitling, And More
Another Friday, another list! This week, we continue our exploration of legendary movements. For this list, we have selected five classics with the famous Valjoux 72. As you will see, this chronograph caliber powered some of the most legendary watches that horology fans love. That’s why creating a list of the five standout Valjoux 72-powered […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Classic Valjoux 72-Powered Watches - Featuring Rolex, Enicar, Breitling, And More to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Just Released a Collector’s Dream Watch!
At Watches & Wonders 2024, Grand Seiko announced the new 9SA4 caliber and the first two watches featuring it, the SLGW002 and SLGW003. As a refresher, the 9SA4 is a manual hi-beat (36,000 bph), 80-hour, time-only caliber featuring their in-house dual-impulse escapement, first seen in the 9SA5. With a power reserve on the back of the movement, beautiful bridge designs and finishing, and a unique “wagtail-bird-shaped” winding click, it set a new bar for Grand Seiko’s mechanical calibers. But, perhaps just as exciting as the movement itself was that the watches featuring it were sized at an idyllic 38.6mm diameter and 9.95mm thickness with a 20mm lug, addressing the naysayer’s concerns around Grand Seiko’s sizing. While a pair of fantastic releases, since introduction, we have been wondering where we will see this movement next. Well, we just got our answer, and I have to tell you, I’m equally surprised and delighted. They went vintage rather than with the new case and a different dial, which would have been most expected. Yes, they decided to bring back, as a limited edition, of course, a “recreation” of the 45GS from 1968. A little history, the 45GS came out a year after the 44GS and featured the same case design, but differed in that it featured the brand’s first hi-beat manual wound movement, the 4520. The SLGW005 – the return of the 45GS The 44/45GS case defines the Grand Seiko “Grammar of Design” as set out by Taro Tanaka, with flat, Zaratsu poli...
Hodinkee
Introducing: The F.P. Journe Chronographe FB, The Brand's Final Limited Edition
Celebrating the 20th Anniversary of Journe's Japan boutique, F.P. brings out a brand new manually-wound caliber.
Teddy Baldassarre
Oris Aquis Buyer's Guide
The Oris Aquis collection of sporty dive watches is one of the Swiss brand’s most popular - and notably hosted the first Oris watch outfitted with the in-house Caliber 400 - even though it traces its history back just over a decade, to 2011. Like many watch models that catch on strongly with both collectors and casual fans, however, it actually represents the successful evolution of several models that preceded it. Here’s everything you need to know about the Oris Aquis, from its history, to the most prominent models available now, to its central role in Oris’ environmental sustainability initiatives. ORIS ORIGINS AND AQUIS EVOLUTION Oris, one of the watch world’s few remaining major independent brands, traces its history back to 1904, when it was founded in Hölstein, in the German-speaking Swiss canton of Basel-Landschaft, by Paul Catlin and Georges Christian. The company, which the co-founders named after a brook near the factory, expanded throughout the early 1900s, at one point becoming the largest employer in Hölstein, with over 300 employees and factories throughout Switzerland. In 1925, Oris began making wrist watches, and in 1928, under the leadership of Christian’s brother-in-law Oscar Herzog, a new era of expansion and innovation began. Oris started making its own escapements in the watershed year of 1938, which also saw the release of the brand’s iconic Big Crown watch with pointer date function. The first automatic Oris watch was launched i...
Video
A different "Summer watch" - Milifortic S117
A special thank you to all the channel members:
Time+Tide
The Seiko SLA069 Naomi Uemura pays homage to Japan’s most famed explorer
Introducing the Seiko SLA069 Naomi Uemura Limited Edition, with cues of glacial colours Inspired by the conquests of one of Japan’s best-known explorers Powered by a GS-derived automatic movement, the Caliber 8L35 Naomi Uemura was a man of focus, commitment and sheer will. He was the first person to solo-climb Denali, the highest mountain peak … ContinuedThe post The Seiko SLA069 Naomi Uemura pays homage to Japan’s most famed explorer appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Grand Seiko's Kiyotaka Sakai Breaks Down The New 'Tree Rings' LE - And The New Series 9 Design (Live Pics & Pricing)
The fourth timepiece to house the new Hi-Beat caliber 9SA5 is also a pretty-in-platinum showcase for the new Series 9 design.
Time+Tide
Here’s why a Patek Philippe can take six (or more) years to make - a timeline
When a watch enthusiast approaches a timepiece, they usually ask about specifications like case diameter or movement caliber first. Most people, however, will first want to know the price. It can prove a bit of a shock that such a small object can have such a high price tag. It is no secret that luxury … ContinuedThe post Here’s why a Patek Philippe can take six (or more) years to make – a timeline appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Nick’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Cartier, Seiko and Hamilton
In spite of some not inconsiderable distractions, there were some pretty decent watches released in 2020. Quite a few of them actually. Omega relaunched their serially produced caliber 321, Bulgari executed the Octo Finissimo in steel, Grand Seiko launched an entirely new escapement in their SLGH002 and DOXA brought their most iconic design into the … ContinuedThe post Nick’s 3 favourite watches of 2020, including Cartier, Seiko and Hamilton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB161, an entirely new Presage dial design inspired by a clock from the ’70s
The Seiko Presage collection has long been a popular part of the brand’s lineup thanks to the well-tuned value proposition, and the amount of watch you get for your money. The Seiko SPB161 is another fine example. Featuring a crisp enamel dial and powered by the automatic Seiko caliber 6R27, you are once again gaining … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Seiko SPB161, an entirely new Presage dial design inspired by a clock from the ’70s appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Video
Restoration of a 1966s Rolex GMT-MASTER - Complete Overhaul - Amazing Transformation - ASMR
ARD/NDR TV Documentary and Article about me and my workshop: