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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

Longines’ High-Frequency Chronometer Gets a Carbon Composite Case SJX Watches
Longines High-Frequency Chronometer Gets Jan 3, 2025

Longines’ High-Frequency Chronometer Gets a Carbon Composite Case

Arguably under appreciated, the original Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver was a precision timekeeper with a high-frequency movement, the L.836.6. With the high-spec movement, the watch was appealing, albeit pricey by Longines’ standards. Now the brand has given the model an upgrade with the Ultra-Chron Carbon. The Ultra-Chron Carbon retains the familiar cushion-shaped case, but now in carbon composite, giving it lightness and a modern aesthetic that contrasts well with the retro, 1970s origins of the design. Initial thoughts The Ultra-Chron Carbon stands out for its blend of an advanced, industrial movement, composite materials technology (undoubtedly thanks to the Swatch Group’s vast industrial base), and a vintage-inspired aesthetic. Although it’s simply a modest variation of an existing model, the new Ultra-Chron marks the brand’s first venture into non-traditional case materials in the modern day. Priced at US$4,900, the Ultra-Chron Carbon commands a notably higher price than its stainless steel counterpart. While it does offer technical advantages - such as the carbon composite case and a high-frequency (5 Hz) movement - the watch still feels a little expensive relative to alternatives, especially since Longines is primarily a brand that competes in a lower price range. More broadly, the Ultra-Chron Carbon is not a like-for-like vintage remake, which is a good thing. But Longines can arguably do more with its movements. Given that the brand’s enthusiast-orien...

Worldwide Watch Sales Are In A Slump: Are We Suffering From A Bad Case Of Luxury Fatigue? Fratello
Nov 25, 2024

Worldwide Watch Sales Are In A Slump: Are We Suffering From A Bad Case Of Luxury Fatigue?

There’s no escaping luxury. Luxury is everywhere you look. Luxury is the norm. So why is the luxury market as a whole in a slump? Is it the economic situation worldwide? Luxury brands have used the slowdown in China to explain why sales are down, and the results are disappointing. But there might be more […] Visit Worldwide Watch Sales Are In A Slump: Are We Suffering From A Bad Case Of Luxury Fatigue? to read the full article.

Farer Introduces Four New References in their Cushion Case Collection Worn & Wound
Farer Introduces Four New References Aug 9, 2024

Farer Introduces Four New References in their Cushion Case Collection

Farer has long been on my radar as a watch brand to trust not only for exceptional quality, but a distinct design language imbued into every new reference the British brand puts out. Take, for instance, the four new references from their latest Cushion Case collection. Already a favorite (or should I say favourite) of Farer fans, the cushion case is at once totally classic and modern. Because of this chameleon-like quailty, Farer has played with the coloring and design of each watch to make four distinct “personalities” to the series.  Let’s explore each model here. The new lineup features four distinct models, each offering a different style while maintaining the signature cushion case silhouette that has become a hallmark of Farer’s design ethos. First up is the Benham, which stands out with its bold cherry red dial, accented by horizontal grooves and a playful baby blue seconds hand on the sub-dial. The brushed bezel adds a sporty touch, complementing the watch’s contemporary look. Inspired by Gertrude Benham, an English explorer and mountaineer, this watch embodies adventure and boldness without veering too much into ostentation. On the other hand, the Mansfield Midnight offers a more refined and sophisticated aesthetic. Its deep inky blue dial is highlighted by polished rose gold batons and numerals, further complemented by its rose gold dauphine hands, for a classic look. This watch balances metallic tones with polished rose gold accents, making it a sligh...

Introducing: The Fears Brunswick 38 Midas II With A 22K-Gold-Plated Case Fratello
Fears Jul 31, 2024

Introducing: The Fears Brunswick 38 Midas II With A 22K-Gold-Plated Case

English brand Fears introduces a new version of its core model, the Brunswick. This new version reintroduces gold to the collection after the Midas version was discontinued in 2018. The new Midas II features a gold-plated 38mm cushion case and a beautiful bead-blasted dial. Additionally, the Fears Brunswick 38 Midas II comes with two straps […] Visit Introducing: The Fears Brunswick 38 Midas II With A 22K-Gold-Plated Case to read the full article.

Hands-On With The Casio G-Shock G-5600SRF-1 - A Thought-Provoking Watch With A Unique Case And Strap Fratello
Casio G-Shock G-5600SRF-1 - Jul 26, 2024

Hands-On With The Casio G-Shock G-5600SRF-1 - A Thought-Provoking Watch With A Unique Case And Strap

Some brands excel at collaborations, elevating everyday watches to grail status, no matter how primary their starting point is. Casio sets a great example with its G-Shock range and the inherently cool canvas of the OG “Square.” Its shape is packed with potential, and the new Casio G-Shock G-5600SRF-1 shows a real sense of eco-purpose. […] Visit Hands-On With The Casio G-Shock G-5600SRF-1 - A Thought-Provoking Watch With A Unique Case And Strap to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Dietrich ED-1 - Featuring A Soft Hexagonal Case Fratello
Jul 23, 2024

Hands-On With The New Dietrich ED-1 - Featuring A Soft Hexagonal Case

Designing anything, including watches, is an iterative process. You move from one design to another, and every time, you get a bit closer to what you had in mind. I’m not a designer, but Emmanuel Dietrich, who founded the Dietrich brand in 2010, is. When you look at his previous designs, you can see that […] Visit Hands-On With The New Dietrich ED-1 - Featuring A Soft Hexagonal Case to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: The Battle Of The Bracelets - Oyster Vs. Jubilee Fratello
Jun 30, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: The Battle Of The Bracelets - Oyster Vs. Jubilee

We have a rather special Sunday Morning Showdown for you today. For once, we aren’t pitting two watches against each other. This time, it is up to two bracelet styles to fight it out. These are not just any two bracelet styles, mind you, but two of the most iconic ones to ever affix watches […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: The Battle Of The Bracelets - Oyster Vs. Jubilee to read the full article.

Back To Basics: Watch Case Materials Explained - From Aluminum To Zirconium Dioxide Fratello
Jun 23, 2024

Back To Basics: Watch Case Materials Explained - From Aluminum To Zirconium Dioxide

I am happy to present a new edition of Back To Basics, our series aimed at newcomers to our beautiful watch hobby. This time, we will examine some of the most common materials used to make watch cases. Why would you pick a titanium watch over a stainless steel one? What is the difference between […] Visit Back To Basics: Watch Case Materials Explained - From Aluminum To Zirconium Dioxide to read the full article.

#TBT The Unusual Waterproof Case Patented By Bulova In The Late 1950s Fratello
Bulova Jun 13, 2024

#TBT The Unusual Waterproof Case Patented By Bulova In The Late 1950s

It has been maybe six years since I picked up this tiny Bulova on a business trip to Budapest. After finishing my meetings, on my way to the train station, I stopped at my favorite vintage watch shop. As I always do, I asked for something unusual… The owner picked up a black-dial Bulova, which […] Visit #TBT The Unusual Waterproof Case Patented By Bulova In The Late 1950s to read the full article.

IWC Unveils Experimental Luminous Ceramic Case SJX Watches
Hamilton May 28, 2024

IWC Unveils Experimental Luminous Ceramic Case

IWC just revealed an experimental Pilot’s chronograph with a luminous ceramic case – on the wrist of Formula 1 champion Lewis Hamilton at the Monaco Grand Prix. Christened Ceralume, the material was developed XPL, the watchmaker’s experimental engineering department. According to IWC, the Ceralume concept watch was glowing a bright blue for more than 24 hours in dark chamber tests (although it didn’t state how the material was “charged” prior to the test). According to IWC, the patent-pending material is created by blending ceramic powder with Super-Luminova, the luminous material produced by RC Tritec that absorbs light energy and then emits it. Being non-radioactive, Super-Luminova is widely used to illuminate watch dials, and also suited to a case material. Though IWC has not revealed specifics about future plans for the material, it did say Ceralume will “form the foundation of future developments and releases.” Lewis Hamilton at the 2024 Formula 1 Monaco Grand Prix Initial thoughts Ever since the discovery of radium in 1898, luminous materials have become commonplace in watches, primarily to aid legibility. With legibility being less crucial today, luminous paint is increasingly used for purely aesthetic purposes. Moreover, luminous ceramic is not actually new. Tudor, for instance, used luminous ceramic hour markers in the Black Bay Pro of 2022. IWC is the first to make an entire case from the material, albeit not one that is available commercially (ye...

Hublot Combines a Two-Week Power Reserve and a Blue Sapphire Crystal Case SJX Watches
Hublot Combines May 6, 2024

Hublot Combines a Two-Week Power Reserve and a Blue Sapphire Crystal Case

A perfect illustration of Hublot’s extravagant style and technical proficiency, the Hublot Big Bang MP-11 14 Day Power Reserve Water Blue Sapphire boasts 336 hours of power reserve thanks to seven laterally stacked barrels working with 90° bevel gears and a helical worm screw to drive the movement. This is a new variant of an existing model, with the difference being the case crafted from transparent “water blue” sapphire crystal. Initial thoughts Hublot is an anomaly. It’s one of the 20 biggest watchmakers in Switzerland by revenue and boasts a vertically integrated manufactured but is often criticised for being something of a “fashion” brand by enthusiasts and non-enthusiasts alike. Part of this pushback probably stems from the brand’s entry-level watches that use inexpensive stock movements that are priced expensively for what they are. The mechanics don’t live up to the price. That reasoning is sound, but it doesn’t reflect the brand’s top-of-the-line products. Like the recent MP-10, the new MP-11 reflects Hublot’s ability in movements and materials. Its manufacture develops and produces complex in-house calibres with unique complications and novel constructions, usually presented in cases made of novel materials with distinctive aesthetics and properties. The only downside of such complications is their size. The MP-11 is enormous at 45 mm in diameter, and it isn’t even the chunkiest watch that Hublot produces. This limits its wearability and ...

Montblanc Introduces their New CARBO2 Case Material in the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Montblanc Introduces their New CARBO2 Apr 9, 2024

Montblanc Introduces their New CARBO2 Case Material in the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen Limited Edition

Montblanc has just released the limited-edition 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen. This latest release blends the spirit of mountain exploration, a tribute to the historical Minerva pocket watches and chronographs designed in the 1920s and 1930s for military purposes, with cutting-edge technology that has continued to define the Montblanc brand in recent releases.  The hallmark of this new model is its innovative case material, CARBO2, created through an eco-conscious process that transforms CO2 captured from bio-gas and mineral waste into a durable composite when mixed with carbon fiber. This pioneering material not only sets a new standard in sustainable luxury watchmaking but also boasts a striking dark hue that perfectly complements the adventurous essence of the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen. The watch’s dial, inspired by glacial textures, is crafted using the gratté-boisé technique for an intricate effect that mirrors the complexity of ice crystals. The dial is complemented by white luminescent black rhodium-coated Arabic numerals and indexes, white luminescent rhodium-coated hours and minutes hands, a white luminescent dual time hand, and luminescent Northern and Southern hemispheres globes with blue Greenwich meridians. It is this set of small details that show the precision and focus of Montblanc with their luxury-end watches. In fact, one extremely intriguing feature is the side engraving of Mont Blanc Mountain, visible only to the wearer, which glows luminously i...

Oris Updates the Aquis Date Across Three Case Sizes with Many Small Enhancements for a More Refined Experience Worn & Wound
Oris Updates Apr 9, 2024

Oris Updates the Aquis Date Across Three Case Sizes with Many Small Enhancements for a More Refined Experience

This year at Watches & Wonders, Oris finds itself focusing primarily on a single collection: the Aquis. For years, the Aquis has carried the torch as the brand’s flagship modern sports watch. A capable diver with an integrated bracelet (it had one before they were cool), the Aquis has been made in a dizzying variety of case sizes and dial variants over the years, with complicated models, limited editions, and even diamonds finding their way to the line. But over all that time, the Aquis itself has never really had a proper reset. That changes this year, with a new, more refined Aquis Date that seeks to improve on the old version in all the ways watch collectors care about. The new Aquis is made of a number of subtle changes that add up to a noticeable, if incremental, improvement. This is not a radical rethinking of the Aquis, but feels more like an admission from Oris that certain elements of the tried and true design could be tweaked for a better overall experience. It’s an approach, frankly, that we think more brands should take. When something is generally pretty good, it makes no sense to kill it and start from scratch. Success over a long period means little iterative changes that make your product better as performance expectations shift, and Oris seems to embrace that.  Of the changes made to the new Aquis, the most important is likely the small tweaks to the case. Oris has redefined the Aquis silhouette by making everything a little more balanced, with lugs t...