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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Carter is the latest brand flocking to a digital platform for their new watch releases. But there may be some conflict with Watches & Wonders...
SJX Watches
Conceived by Louis Cartier for Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont – who needed a timepiece he could read while flying – the Santos-Dumont wristwatch has the double distinction of being the first wristwatch designed from the ground up for men, as well as being the first-ever pilot’s wristwatch. Now the 116-year old design has just received its latest update with the unveiling of the hand-wound Santos-Dumont XL. [Update March 23, 2020: Read the review with more photos.] Though the Brazilian pilot got his wristwatch in 1904, it took until 1911 for the design to be sold commercially. For most of the century since, the Santos-Dumont has been part of the Cartier line-up in one way or another, often in gold but occasionally in platinum (one outlier was a special edition in titanium with a skeleton movement). The most recent facelift happened in 2005, which saw the unveiling of a version without a bezel. The new Santos-Dumont XL in all three versions Last year, the latest generation of the Santos-Dumont was unveiled, marking a return to the iconic Santos bezel with screws. For the first time ever, the Santos-Dumont was available in steel as well as two-tone steel and gold, along with the traditional all-gold case. However, the new Santos-Dumont didn’t quite receive unanimous acclaim because it was quartz movement. But now Cartier has finally unveiled what was long expected, the mechanical Santos-Dumont XL. Measuring 46.6 by 33.9 mm and just 7.5 mm in height...
Revolution
In “Watch I Love”, Revolution editors take turns to pick their fave timepieces. Here, Stephanie Ip presents the Must de Cartier.
Deployant
Breguet expands their magnificent Classique Tourbillon Extra-plat Automatique 5367 with a deep blue grand feu enamel dial.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Almost all reissues of vintage timepieces have an exciting story to tell – that’s just the way it is, otherwise watchmakers wouldn’t bother remaking. Thing is, though, when a watch manufacturer does decide to create an homage timepiece, they usually have the original in their possession. That was not the case when Longines … ContinuedThe post Is the Avigation BigEye one of Longines’ nicest pilot’s watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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WatchAdvice
Zenith introduced the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure as part of the unveiling for their 2019 Baselworld line up. The Chronograph was released alongside the Type 20 Extra Special Adventure which is the three-hand layout of the Pilot model. Zenith does have a vibrant history with pilot models, which stretches back to the early 19th century. The Zenith Type 20 Montre d’Aéronef released around 1939 is a timepiece that closely resembles the current Pilot Type 20 editions. The iconic cathedral hands with the Gothic-font Arabic numerals and the large knurled bezel have all been carried over from the original Type 20 Montre d’Aéronef model. The pilot models only lasted up until 1960, where Zenith stopped production of their aviation watches bar one or two models so that the brand could more solely focus on racing chronographs. In 2010 however, the brand came back to its aviation pedigree and once again started the manufacturing of pilots watches, which was when the modern Pilot Type 20 collection was born. It’s great to see a design of a watch remain unchanged for almost eight decades and shows how true to their history Zenith are. Zenith has given the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure a more 21st century modern and urban look. Typically when thinking urban colours or colours of nature, one is drawn to the likes of green and brown. Zenith has utilized these colours extensively throughout the Pilot Type 20 Chronograph Adventure. The 45mm casing has been produce...
WatchAdvice
Released earlier this year at SIHH 2019, IWC’s latest collection of Spitfire pilots watches all feature for the first – time in-house manufactured calibres. With seven new references ranging from simple time-only functions, all the way to perpetual calendars, 2019 marked a significant year for the brand. Today, we’re taking a look at the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire, in bronze. Just a glance at the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire, and there’s no mistaking this bronze watches heritage, which draws inspiration from the original IWC Mark 11- a definitive Pilot’s watch, with legitimate military provenance. First Impressions If you’re on the hunt for a unique take on the iconic Pilot’s watch and want an in-house movement with impressive power-reserve, look no further. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire is a robust and well-proportioned take on the quintessential military classic. The Case The sandblasted bronze case serves up an interesting texture, and attractive take on bronze. The case is warm with a golden sheen, especially under sunlight, where it becomes quick playful with the light. As you might expect, the bronze case is designed to patina over time, and develop a distinctive look reflecting the owner’s wear pattern. The press piece provided was well worn, having already developed its own unique patina. And being bronze, after just a few weeks of wear, you’ll begin to notice the uniqueness and individuality present itself. The ...
Time+Tide
Cartier is a brand that doesn’t reinvent the wheel, but instead gradually evolves their designs over decades, refining and purifying their core look with each year that goes by. For their latest collection, released at SIHH 2019, the focus was the Cartier Santos-Dumont, a dress watch that is both classically sized and slim, offering one … ContinuedThe post The Cartier Santos-Dumont is a lesson in distilled elegance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
We’re now more than halfway through our flyover of the various families in the IWC Pilot’s family - we’ve covered off Top Gun and the Spitfire, but now we’re hitting the Classics. As you might expect given the classic moniker, the Classic family is, well, classic. Based strongly on the original military-era pilots, these watches … ContinuedThe post Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 3 – the Classic collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Let me preface this by stating two things: (a) this is a slightly more philosophical discussion than usual, and (b) Franco Cologni is an important man in the watch business. After starting his career selling Must de Cartier products in the ’70s (of which I am a fan), he rose prominently within the Parisian organisation, … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Is there a paradox in watchmaking? Franco Cologni thinks so appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
IWC is famous for their pilot’s watches, and rightfully so - they’re instantly recognisable and a genuinely iconic modern design. And while the design born in the middle of last century was for a very specific purpose - as a navigational tool for aviators - the passing of time has seen the collection grow and evolve. … ContinuedThe post Understanding the IWC Pilot’s family part 1 – the Top Gun collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Now that we’re more than halfway through, I think we can all admit that 2019 has been a bit of an odd one, as far as years go. If you had told past Felix that a slender steel quartz Cartier would be one of the best watches of the year, he would have scoffed. But … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Cartier’s Santos-Dumont is guaranteed to add class to your daily wear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: I don’t know about you, but when I think of everyday watches, I default to round steel sports pieces. Of course, there might be some internalised bias going on here. Because you know what, the Cartier Santos - recently given an all new and improved makeover - is actually a really strong contender for 24/7 duty. … ContinuedThe post 4 reasons why the Cartier Santos makes a great everyday watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Yesterday, Dwayne Johnson touched down in Las Vegas to showcase his new buddy action flick Hobbs & Shaw at CinemaCon, an industry event. But while I’m sure there were explosions aplenty, what really grabbed our attention was something else entirely. What The Rock was wearing. That Ferragamo knit with a palm print is in-credible. Also, … ContinuedThe post WATCHSPOTTING: IWC’s Big Pilot never looked so small – The Rock rocks a Bronze Spitfire in Las Vegas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Wei Koh and Mo Coppoletta, revered tattoo artist and designer of The Family Business Tattoo, London talk about their very own piece unique Cartier Tank Cintrées, the result of a build-your-own watch initiative by Cartier themselves.
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Time+Tide
Zenith is rather proud of the fact - and understandably so - that they hold the trademark for the “Pilot” name on watches, so it makes sense for them to proudly emblazon the name on the dials of their aviation-inspired pieces. This latest limited edition is extra special (also mentioned on the dial), because of its … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Pilot Type 20 Extra Special Silver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A little while ago I made my way down to Cartier’s Collins Street boutique in Melbourne, spent a little time amidst the glittering plinths and picked out some watches that, for me at least, really epitomise what makes the Maison’s watchmaking so great. Of course there are numerous shapes in attendance, from the circle of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 8 Cartier watches that stand out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In order to think about the best women’s watches, we must first ask ourselves: “What is a women’s watch?” At Cartier, the answer is particularly interesting: as the Maison’s 100+ years of watches has been taken a particularly fluid approach to their collections, with models like the Tank or the Tortue being equally well-suited to … ContinuedThe post LIST: Six of the best, my pick of Cartier’s women’s watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you think of a pilot’s watch, there’s a good chance you’re thinking of a large round watch, with a black dial and bold Arabic numerals. Well, Alpina’s latest, the Startimer Pilot Heritage, ticks none of these boxes, but that doesn’t make it any less of a pilot’s watch. The design of the Startimer Pilot … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Alpina’s Startimer Pilot Heritage – a value-packed GMT with style to boot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
One of the most iconic watches by Cartier, the Santos needs no introduction. The origins of the Santos dates back to 1904 when Cartier first designed the watch to accompany aviator Santos Dumont on his intrepid flights. Funny as it seems, the Santos then bears the pedigree of a Pilot’s watch and is one of the earliest tool purpose wristwatches in history.
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Time+Tide
Last week we had a look at the ‘regular’ version of Cartier’s updated Santos, and today the less-is-more Skeleton is under our lens. To be specific, we’re talking about the large steel model (though there’s a pink gold version as well), which comes on the QuickSwitch and SmartLink equipped steel bracelet, replete with those prominent … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The stripped-back Santos – Cartier’s Santos de Cartier Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The story in a second: A lot of value for not a lot of case. Though “perceived value” has become the new marketing-speak of the last couple of years in the watch industry, there still aren’t that many brands in the luxury watch industry that have taken any real significant strides. Sure, we’ve seen prices … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: the Drive de Cartier Extra Flat in steel - driving the value proposition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
If you’re a relative newcomer to the whole world of watches, it’s easy to underestimate just how big Cartier is, and how important their impact on modern watchmaking is. Cartier have carved themselves an unimpeachable place as the evergreen masters of the shaped watch, and the Santos is the watch that started it all. While … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: This watch means business – the Cartier Santos in yellow gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Visiting Cartier at SIHH is always an experience. Not only does the floorspace of the maison’s booth outstrip that of any other, but there’s always a sense of effortless cool, matched only by the sort of self-assurance that only comes from having been masters of your craft for a long, long time. Cartier Santos de … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 4 outstanding new Cartier watches from SIHH appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Three new 2018 Tank Cintrée was presented earlier this month, at SIHH in Geneva.
Video
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