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RECOMMENDED READING: History of the Must de Cartier Tank Time+Tide
Cartier Tank Editor’s note I Oct 8, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: History of the Must de Cartier Tank

Editor’s note: I think most people reading this fully appreciate just how dire things were in the 1970s as a result of the notorious “quartz crisis”. Myriad Swiss watchmakers seemed to just disappear overnight, succumbing to a battery-powered onslaught led by Seiko, who inundated the wristwatch market with inexpensive, accurate timepieces. It was an interesting … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: History of the Must de Cartier Tank appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune SJX Watches
Hermes Chronode conceived Oct 8, 2019

Hands-On: Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune

Hermès, as a brand, usually has an elegant, light and sometimes whimsical house style that makes it unique amongst luxury houses. The Arceau L’Heure De La Lune unveiled at SIHH at the start of the year exemplifies the house style, although the case is thicker than ideal. Functionally, the Arceau L’Heure De La Lune is a straightforward watch – it shows the time, date and phases of the Moon in both the Southern and Northern hemispheres. But the execution of the time and date is striking and clever. Orbital moon phases The two are essentially orbital displays, as each is on a sub-dial mounted on a rotating, central carousel. The carousel take 59 days to make one complete revolution around the dial. But each sub-dial also rotates on itself as the carousel turns. As a result, each sub-dial is always the right way up regardless of its position. Both sub-dials also double up as the moon phase indicator, with position of each sub-dial indicating the age of the Moon in each hemisphere. And in a bit of whimsy, the hemispheres have been inverted, with the Southern on top and Northern below. The Arceau L’Heure De La Lune with a meteorite dial The inventive display was built by Chronode, the complications specialist founded by Jean-Francois Mojon, which has a diverse body of work that includes Urban Jurgensen’s P4 movement, the MB&F; LM2, and the constant force tourbillon of IWC. The display module by Chronode. Photo – Hermes Chronode conceived and builds the ...

INTRODUCING: The Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen Time+Tide
Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen Sep 21, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen

Horological heavyweight Richard Mille has just unveiled their latest limited edition masterpiece, the Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen, and there’s only one thing we can say … Bwoah! In typical fashion only to be expected of Richard Mille, the RM 50-04 is an incredibly complicated and quite frankly wonderful timepiece, designed for the one … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Richard Mille RM 50-04 Kimi Räikkönen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 57-03 Tourbillon Sapphire Dragon SJX Watches
Richard Mille Introduces Sep 8, 2019

Richard Mille Introduces the RM 57-03 Tourbillon Sapphire Dragon

Most of Richard Mille’s recent – and bestselling – watches have mainly been ultra-light and extremely technical in terms of materials and styling. The new RM 57-03 Tourbillon Sapphire Dragon is different. Instead it harks back to an earlier era of Richard Mille from not too long ago, when decorative techniques were employed to create unusually intricate watches like the Boucheron tourbillon. Originally unveiled in 2012, the RM 57-01 was initially launched as the “Jackie Chan” edition, designed in collaboration with the Hong Kong action star and bearing a miniature dragon sculpture on the movement. Subsequent iterations included the RM 57-02 where the dragon was replaced by a falcon, a motif popular in the Gulf. Available only in Asia, the RM 57-03 Tourbillon Sapphire Dragon is essentially a variant of the RM 57-01 the dragon executed in sapphire crystal and gold, the first time Richard Mille has created a sculpture in that material. The sapphire dragon is anchored to the movement ring with screws Produced by Olivier Vaucher, a micro-decoration specialist in Geneva that serves brands including Roger Dubuis, Van Cleef & Arpels and Zenith, the sapphire body of the dragon is first milled from a block of sapphire, and then laser engraved to create its detail. Then the engraving is finished and polished by hand. The sapphire pieces are then joined to solid red gold components that make up the dragon’s head, tail, limbs and spine. To highlight the dragon’s tongu...

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Cornes de Vache Chronograph in Steel SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Sep 4, 2019

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Cornes de Vache Chronograph in Steel

Originally available in platinum and then rose gold, the Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 is a well regarded vintage remake, being well executed and faithful to the original. It’s modelled on the ref. 6087 of the 1950s, which was characterised by pointy, horn-shaped lugs, hence the model name; cornes de vache translates as cow horns. Now it is available in stainless steel, making the Cornes de Vache the second Historiques model to be offered in the metal, after the Historiques 1942 and 1948 triple calendars. The steel case naturally makes it far more accessible, with a retail price that’s a third less than the same in platinum. Material aside, the specs of the new model are identical to the earlier precious metal versions. The case is 38.5mm in diameter, and contains the cal. 1142 movement. Now made in-house by Vacheron Constantin, the cal. 1142 is derived from the Lemania 2310. Vacheron Constantin has upgraded the movement in several ways, most notably with a free-sprung balance wheel. The dial is a pale grey with a fine “velvet” finish and red accents on the elapsed seconds track. All of the applied hour markers are 18k white gold, as are the hands. Notably, this is not the first Cornes de Vache in steel. In 2017 Vacheron Constantin produced a small run of 36 watches – with a steel case and dark grey dial – for American watch blog Hodinkee. Key facts and price Diameter: 38.5mm Height: 10.9mm Material: Stainless steel Water resist...

RECOMMENDED READING: Do watches hold their value during a downturn? Time+Tide
Jul 26, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Do watches hold their value during a downturn?

Much has been written about the growth of the pre-owned watch market in recent years, but just how long has this been happening, and will watches hold their value during a recession? With consecutive seasons of watch auctions breaking all-time records, luxury conglomerate Richemont spending an estimated €200m to acquire second-hand dealer Watchfinder & Co … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Do watches hold their value during a downturn? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tom Selleck on why he still wears his ‘Magnum, P.I.’ Rolex Time+Tide
Rolex Editor’s note Men don’t Jun 26, 2019

Tom Selleck on why he still wears his ‘Magnum, P.I.’ Rolex

Editor’s note: Men don’t come much manlier than Tom Selleck’s Magnum, P.I. This guy had it all – the car, the ‘stache and, most importantly, the watch. Last year the FHH ran an excellent interview with the man himself and his watch. It’s awesome.  All that’s left of my Magnum days are my Rolex, a … ContinuedThe post Tom Selleck on why he still wears his ‘Magnum, P.I.’ Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Artisans de Genève Introduces the Daytona “La Barrichello” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet ambassador Jun 25, 2019

Artisans de Genève Introduces the Daytona “La Barrichello”

Anyone who followed Formula 1 in the 1990s to the early 2000s would remember Rubens Barrichello as effective driver. Though the Brazilian did not win any championships, he notched up 11 wins and 68 podium finishes. Like many fellow Formula 1 drivers, Mr Barrichello likes watches and was once an Audemars Piguet ambassador; the Royal Oak Offshore Rubens Barrichello II of 2006 was one of the hottest watches of the era.  Unsurprisingly, Mr Barrichello is apparently a fan of the Rolex Daytona – arguably the auto racing watch – explaining his collaboration with Artisans de Genève, a Swiss outfit that specialises in customising Rolex watches. They gave his Rolex Daytona a makeover to create “La Barrichello”, a strikingly and heavily modified Cosmograph Daytona with an open-worked movement. Notably, Artisans de Genève just last year performed a similar custom job on a Daytona belonging to Juan-Pablo Montoya, another F1 driver who was active in the sport at the same time as Mr Barrichello. Both drivers’ skeletonised watches are novel in a good way; much of Artisans de Genève’s other creations are modern Daytonas modified to look like vintage “Paul Newman” Daytonas, which is arguably less interesting. Creative differences “La Barrichello” started out as the all-steel Daytona ref. 116520, which is the preceding generation of Daytona that was first introduced in 2000 before being replaced by the ref. 116500LN (distinguished by its ceramic bezel) in 2...

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche – form and function perfectly balanced Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve May 7, 2019

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche – form and function perfectly balanced

Editor’s note: Much of the ‘what’ of a watch can be summed up in the technical, the hard numbers and facts of the spec sheet. But there’s an element - an X factor - that transcends this clinical description, and transforms a watch from an object into an artwork. This Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche … ContinuedThe post The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Réserve de Marche – form and function perfectly balanced appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

LIST: 5 great value watches from under $500 up to $10,000 Time+Tide
May 2, 2019

LIST: 5 great value watches from under $500 up to $10,000

Throughout our recent discussions on what it is that defines value, we’ve explored some different ways of approaching that question. Ultimately, it’s down to the wearer to decide the return on their investment, but which watches do we think are pretty darn likely to get a thumbs up from our readers across the board? So … ContinuedThe post LIST: 5 great value watches from under $500 up to $10,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Smart money – 6 expert takes on the best value watches to buy Time+Tide
Apr 22, 2019

Smart money – 6 expert takes on the best value watches to buy

Editor’s note: Midway through last year, Justin did an excellent wrap of ‘value’ pieces, asking a range of industry leaders for their (very subjective) takes on the best value pieces RN. Nearly 12 months on, do you think these picks still hold up? And I wonder what the 2019 version would include … Anyone with … ContinuedThe post Smart money – 6 expert takes on the best value watches to buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

JLC’s Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic is the definition of tacticool Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre s SIHH releases it’d Apr 5, 2019

JLC’s Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic is the definition of tacticool

Editor’s note: Whether you’re a wannabe operator or just in love with the stealth appeal of ceramic, this JLC is pretty much the definition of tacticool, even with the blue details.  Based on the coverage of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s SIHH releases, it’d be fair to assume the brand put out nothing but dressy Reversos this year. Well, that’s … ContinuedThe post JLC’s Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic is the definition of tacticool appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WHO TO FOLLOW: @WoodsWatchmaking, a third generation Australian watchmaker Time+Tide
Rolex Melbourne Hi Michael what’s Nov 3, 2018

WHO TO FOLLOW: @WoodsWatchmaking, a third generation Australian watchmaker

Michael Woods loves travelling, playing basketball and is a proud dad. He’s also a third generation watchmaker who previously managed After-Sales for Rolex Melbourne. Hi Michael, what’s your daily watch? It depends on my mood, what inspires me, or what I’m doing for that day or week. It’s not uncommon for me to wear a … ContinuedThe post WHO TO FOLLOW: @WoodsWatchmaking, a third generation Australian watchmaker appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: Quartz, but not as you know it – the Grand Seiko SBGN007 GMT Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGN007 GMT Quartz isn’t Oct 23, 2018

HANDS-ON: Quartz, but not as you know it – the Grand Seiko SBGN007 GMT

Quartz isn’t something that comes across my desk too often, so you know when it does that it’s something special - and this Grand Seiko is definitely something special. There’s a handful of truly exceptional, iconic quartz movements out there, and the 9F is amongst the finest. And now, with the addition of a GMT, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Quartz, but not as you know it – the Grand Seiko SBGN007 GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

NEWS: Breitling is the latest member of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, and why it matters Time+Tide
Breitling Oct 16, 2018

NEWS: Breitling is the latest member of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, and why it matters

If you’re not familiar with the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (AKA the FHH), it’s one of the industry’s peak bodies, founded in 2005 to promote fine watchmaking in Switzerland and across the world. It’s an organisation with 43 partner brands, the most recent being Breitling. This development should come as no massive surprise if … ContinuedThe post NEWS: Breitling is the latest member of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, and why it matters appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: A closer look at Drake’s sexy Richard Mille Erotic Tourbillon RM 69 Time+Tide
Richard Mille Erotic Tourbillon RM 69 Oct 15, 2018

VIDEO: A closer look at Drake’s sexy Richard Mille Erotic Tourbillon RM 69

In Las Vegas, a little over a week ago, rapper Drake was spotted wearing the Richard Mille Erotic Tourbillon RM 69 at his concert at the MGM Grand Garden Arena. He took to Instagram to show off the seductive ‘oracle’ complication, which seems the perfect fit for the man known for a few suggestive lyrics … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A closer look at Drake’s sexy Richard Mille Erotic Tourbillon RM 69 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.