Deployant
New: Greubel Forsey Balancier Contemporain in Stainless Steel
Greubel Forsey's very successful Balancier has come to its final run, now executed in a stainless steel case, with a gorgeous blue dial.
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Deployant
Greubel Forsey's very successful Balancier has come to its final run, now executed in a stainless steel case, with a gorgeous blue dial.
Fratello
Just in time for summer, Clément Gaud presents us with the lightest and smallest Laventure watch to date. The Marine Type 3, available with either a black or full-lume white dial, features a case crafted from Grade 23 titanium. Like all of Clément’s watches, the Marine Type 3’s design takes inspiration from vintage timepieces. This […] Visit Hands-On With The Laventure Marine Type 3 - A Specialized Instrument In Grade 23 Titanium to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey bids farewell to what was once its smallest watch, the Balancier Contemporain, with a final edition in stainless steel with a blue dial. The brand aims to finish the run of 33 watches later this year, after which the Balancier Contemporain will be no more, marking the end of its just-under-40 mm case. Notably, this is not a move away from mid-sized watches; in fact, the brand intends to double down on them with future launches. Initial Thoughts When launched in 2019, the Balancier Contemporain was the Greubel Forsey’s smallest watch – relatively speaking. The brand’s quality may be irreproachable, but wearability is another matter – several of its watches are well over 44 mm – and as consumers’ tastes gravitate back to mid-sized watches, Greubel Forsey was arguably in a tricky position with its near pocket-watch-sized calibres. But the brand was prepared for that. Just last year, Greubel Forsey set a new direction with the Nano Foudroyante EWT, a flyback chronograph (and flying tourbillon with lightning seconds) that was just under 38 mm in diameter and 10.5 mm thick. And even before that, the Convexe sports model cases already helped wearability massively – I’d even say the nominally larger Balancier Convexe and Double Balancier Convexe wear better than the Balancier Contemporain. So while the Balancier Contemporain is still a great watch, I’m not sad to see it go. As Greubel Forsey transitions to small-diameter watches, I expect to see it...
Fratello
This watch might not be for field-watch purists. But for those who are more open-minded and don’t mind chill frivolities, this icy-cool Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm might be just the watch they’re looking for. It will involve a bit of traveling, though, because this frosty-dial watch is only available in Zermatt. You will have […] Visit Introducing: The Icy-Cool Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm Zermatt Exclusive Edition With A Matterhorn Engraving to read the full article.
Fratello
Last year, I shared the story of finding an Art Deco Oris watch in a suitcase. I had been looking through the case at a vintage shop here in Sydney when I saw something glistening. It turned out to be a rather battered and rusty Oris watch. It didn’t run, but I liked the dial […] Visit Restoring An Old Art Deco Oris Watch Found In A Suitcase to read the full article.
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Deployant
Bvlgari celebrates with Singapore on our 60th National Day with a special edition of their World Timer, with Singapore prominently marked on the dial.
Worn & Wound
One of the things I really enjoy about covering microbrands and small independents is seeing how young brands develop in unexpected ways over time. My first exposure to De Rijke & Co. was through Zach Weiss’s review of their Amalfi 1S back in 2020. At that point, the brand’s calling card was their trick case design that allowed the wearer to easily rotate the dial for a better viewpoint while driving, as well as customized design options so clients could effectively create their own unique version of the watch. This “gentleman driver’s” watch, as they referred to it, remains quite appealing, and the case of course is still a part of their collection. In no way, however, could it have predicted the success the brand would find making watches featuring the “Miffy” character, a staple of Dutch children’s books since the 1950s. Over the last three years, De Rijke & Co. has released several Miffy themed watches that go well beyond simple character dials. The Miffy motif has been used to experiment with bold colors, lume, and different expressions of the moonphase complication. These watches are whimsical, a lot of fun, and quite far removed, in my opinion, from the earlier Amalfi pieces, and it’s fascinating to consider how the brand got to this point. Today, they’ve unveiled what is said to be the final Miffy watch. According to the brand, the new White Ceramic Miffy Moonphase has been in the works for three years. It is, it turns out, quite complicated...
Time+Tide
An idiosyncratic shape and a retro-tastic dial (complete with pinion cap!) make this indie offering a love letter to the 1970s.The post Vintage vibes abound with the Ferro Time Master 70 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A subtler version of its flagship model, the Biver Carillon Tourbillon Signature Series looks almost like a time-only watch. It does away with the dial cutout for the tourbillon, leading to a more toned-down appearance for the complicated watch that combines a three-gong carillon repeater with a tourbillon. Notably, the new model is also available in a two-tone configuration of titanium and 18k rose gold. Initial thoughts Watchmakers usually highlight the tourbillon, putting the regulator front and centre of the dial (and charge a lot more for the mechanism too). Back in 2023, Biver made its debut with a tourbillon minute repeater, which proudly displayed the tourbillon at six o’clock. Now the brand has reprised the model, but conceals what was the main showpiece on the dial. The two models are delivered with a set of cufflinks, material-matched to the watch The closed dial plainly conceals the tourbillon underneath. And due to the movement’s construction, the tourbillon can’t be seen from the case back either - making for a confusing sight. The end result is a very understated timepiece that doesn’t reveal itself easily, or much at all. In fact, the apparent simplicity is underlined by the dial, which is almost identical to that of the time-only Automatique. It features the same brushed circular sectors and micro relief minute track have become staple design elements of the brand. Were it not for the repeater slide, one would even be tempted to assume this is...
Deployant
Breguet releases their first ever flying tourbillon in the new Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255, with a case in Breguet gold and an aventurine dial.
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Worn & Wound
Baltic’s Hermétique feels like a little bit of a secret weapon to me. It’s riffing on vintage watches in a much more subtle way than many of the brand’s earlier releases, and has proven to be a great canvas for creative dial variations and is, honestly, one of the only bronze watches I actually like. When it was announced back in 2023, there was some grousing about the case size, but putting the watch on makes it clear that 37mm is exactly right for a watch in this style. It’s sleek (thanks in large part to the inset crown) and thin, and can be dressed up or dressed down – it’s just a very solid watch at a very easy to digest price point (check out Ed Jelley’s hands-on thoughts from the original launch right here). And while there’s a timeless, almost generic (in a good way) quality to the Hermétique, you can’t really fault Baltic for wanting to capitalize on the seemingly irrepressible desire of watch lovers to adorn their wrists with loud colors in the summer months. Hence, we have the new Hermétique Summer collection. These are watches that do exactly what it says on the tin. They’re the same Hermétiques we’ve become familiar with, but with dial colors that pop up when you search the #summerwatch hashtag on Instagram. Specifically, Baltic tells us they are drawing inspiration from the “California of the 70s.” Not being a Californian, nor alive in the 1970s, I can’t really speak to this personally, but as an evocation of a summery ideal,...
Fratello
This is the new Straum × Fratello Jan Mayen Titanium Edition. If you’re getting a sense of déjà vu, that’s no accident. This latest evolution of Straum’s flagship design builds directly on one of our most successful collaborations to date, the original Jan Mayen with its bold red dial and dramatic lava-inspired texture. This video […] Visit Straum’s Jan Mayen Fratello Limited Edition Returns In Titanium And Rubber to read the full article.
Hodinkee
With strap tech that punches above its price tag, a new Grade 5 titanium case vies for attention alongside Nordic dial art.
SJX Watches
Breguet celebrates a milestone by looking to the stars with the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255, which is the brand’s first flying tourbillon and also dressed up with an aventurine enamel dial. The Tourbillon Sidéral is the brand’s latest anniversary edition – and the most complicated so far – coming after the Classique Souscription and more recent Type XX 2075BH. Initial Thoughts Abraham-Louis Breguet’s workshop only built between 40 to 49 tourbillons in his lifetime, explaining the mythical rarity of the mechanism in historical watchmaking. Now more tourbillons are built in a single day – possibly even by a single brand – than during Breguet’s entire lifetime. Consequently, the tourbillon is no longer regarded with the reverence it enjoyed for centuries. Tourbillons aren’t inherently special today, but still have appeal when executed well; the whole of the parts can be more than the sum of the parts. The Tourbillon Sidéral is executed well and appealing. Flying tourbillon aside, the rest of the watch is very good, though not ground breaking. As with Breguet’s other 250th anniversary models, the Tourbillon Sidéral is more interesting aesthetically than technically since the movement is derived from the longstanding Lemania calibre. That approach will change as the year’s end approaches as Breguet has something bigger in the pipeline. For now, the Tourbillon Sidéral is an excellent watch that may suffer under the weight of expectations, but per...
Time+Tide
Stunningly decorated, and sporting an aventurine grand feu enamel dial. The post Breguet’s Classique Tourbillon Sidéral flying tourbillon is so good its price (upon request) hurts the soul appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Monochrome
French brand Baltic has really been on a roll lately with several standout models, including the best-selling MR micro-rotor series, and the popular Hermétique Tourer field watch just got a fresh dose of summer colours inspired by the 1970s California vibe. While the design and specs haven’t changed, the new dial and strap colours really […]
Hodinkee
A new dial color to commemorate the brand's new dial-making facility in the famed German town for watchmaking.
Monochrome
The small German town of Glashütte is steeped in watchmaking history, as we all know. No less than 12 brands, from high-end to more accessible, are nestled there, making it the historic and beating heart of German mechanical watchmaking. Being able to bear the town’s name on one’s dial is also something quite special, as […]
Deployant
Glashütte Original celebrates 180 years of Saxon watchmaking and their new dial manufacture in the city with a new PanoLunaTourbillon.
Time+Tide
GO celebrates a milestone for German watchmaking (plus its new dial manufacture) with a heavy hitting flying tourbillon.The post Glashütte Original celebrates 180 years of Glashütte watchmaking with a stunning platinum PanoLunarTourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Fratello
The 1972 catalog lists it as the Gallet Maritimer, although it says Yachting Timer on the dial. You choose. The new designation is still connected to water use…well, sort of. I hereby announce with all due respect that I turned it into my Gallet Soft-Boiled Egg Timer. And I love it! I will start with […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Finds A New Purpose For His Pocket Gallet Yachting Timer to read the full article.
Time+Tide
A solar chronograph with a lovely purple dial. The post Seiko is off to the races with a limited, lilac Speedtimer Solar for the World Athletics Championships appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
As regular readers know, the idea of the Behind the Lens series is to present great watches as seen from a variety of visual perspectives. Mostly, I feature watches on loan from my generous friends, but this time let’s look at a piece that I am very fortunate to have in my own collection: the legendary Simplicity by Philippe Dufour in a 37 mm white gold case with white lacquer dial.
Monochrome
The latest Peren Regia LE Dark follows recent models like the Regia X Automatic 39 Diver, but with a stripped-down aesthetic that’s very monochromatic and a bit futuristic. The diving bezel is sterile save for a white circle at 12 o’clock, and the white dial elements seem to almost float over the depths of the […]
SJX Watches
Piaget combines its traditional expertise in stone dials and ultra-thin movements with the Polo Perpetual Calendar Blue Obsidian, a handsome – and more original – take on the complicated Polo. The slim white gold case is combined with a mesmerizing dial in blue obsidian, which is not a mineral as often believed, but instead volcanic glass. Initial Thoughts The latest Polo Perpetual Calendar is arguably Piaget’s strongest release of the year. It plays to two of the brand’s traditional strengths, thin movements and natural stone or mineral dials. Piaget is of course not the only brand with a perpetual calendar sports watch. In fact, the Polo perpetual with a blue obsidian dial is similar enough to the competition to be competitive – it possesses the key characteristics of being slim and blue – but manages to do so without being derivative, which is arguably an issue with the earlier iteration of the model. The blue obsidian dial in particular sets this apart from comparable watches since exotic dial materials are relatively rare in this segment. The mechanics inside the latest Polo perpetual remain the same. While not the most sophisticated perpetual calendar mechanism in the segment, the ubiquitous Dubois Depraz calendar module is solid and reliable if adjusted according to protocol. Its widespread use also makes it easy for watchmakers to source parts, which is not always a given when it comes to complicated ultra-thin watches. That, paired with a competent ult...
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