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Panda / Reverse Panda Dial

Chronograph dial with high-contrast sub-counters. Vintage Daytona, Speedmaster CK 2998, Heuer Carrera; modern 116500LN, Tudor Chrono.
It’s Not Easy Being Green – Except for the Seiko Alpinist SJX Watches
Seiko Alpinist Seiko’s evergreen mountaineering Nov 7, 2025

It’s Not Easy Being Green – Except for the Seiko Alpinist

Seiko’s evergreen mountaineering companion, the Prospex Alpinist, enters its fourth decade with its fourth major update. The 2025 edition gains an a longer power reserve, a scratch-resistant Diashield case coating, and - most notably - the return of vintage styling cues from the first generation, including the italic “Alpinist” signature on the dial. The new generation (refs. SPB503, SPB505, SPB507) debuts in variants including the signature forest green, along with a limited edition of the outgoing generation exclusively for Singapore, Hong Kong, Macau, Malaysia, and Brunei in an icy white (ref. SPB532). Though it commands a slightly higher price than the outgoing model, the enhancements make it a more capable and durable field watch, keeping the value proposition firmly intact. Initial thoughts This year the iconic green-and-gilt Alpinist turns 30, though it seems to have aged gracefully, with the latest generation being the best since its original debut. Though the Prospex “X” emblem and “three days” script depart from the model’s earlier design, the return of the “Alpinist” script is a welcome touch. Personally, I’ve always favoured its bigger brother, the Landmaster, which has higher specs for a higher price. But for most aspiring mountaineers, the much more accessible and conventionally attractive Alpinist is a better option. Since early references of the Alpinist are incredibly difficult to find – at least by Seiko standards – the new ...

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The Yema Navygraf is the Latest Diver to get the Mother of Pearl Treatment Worn & Wound
Yema Nov 4, 2025

The Yema Navygraf is the Latest Diver to get the Mother of Pearl Treatment

There is something about mother-of-pearl that seems to be catching watchmakers’ eyes lately. While I highly doubt it has to do with the fact that “Mother of Pearl” is a phenomenal drag name, I can’t totally rule that out as a possibility. Instead, more likely, it has to do with the ease in which adding the iridescent substance onto an existing design gives it new personality without really reinventing the wheel. Case in point: Yema’s Navygraf Pearl. Undoubtedly, the Navygraf is a handsome watch. But, like a drag queen, sometimes it’s hard to describe something as both “handsome” and “pretty” simultaneously. At least, that was my first impression of this French-made watch. Using the classic dive watch model, like the Navygraf, and inlaying mother-of-pearl seemed, in a way, incongruous to the steely, masculine athleticism of the silhouette. But, upon examining the bezel and dial a little more closely, I’m more inclined to think this is less of a gimmick and more of a thematic appreciation for the beauty and sport that the ocean provides (unfortunately, I’m only speculating – the press release was more focused on the technical specs of this Navygraf). So, what are the specs? This is a thinner Navygraf variant, equipped with a micro-rotor caliber CMM.2, meaning that the 316L stainless steel case measuring 39mm, only clocks in at 9.75mm thickness. The CMM.2 caliber also promises around 70 hours of power reserve, making it suitable for any diving trips ...

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Tissot Adds One Damascus Steel PRX And Two Titanium Versions To The Lineup Fratello
Tissot Adds One Damascus Steel Nov 4, 2025

Tissot Adds One Damascus Steel PRX And Two Titanium Versions To The Lineup

The Tissot PRX is one of the watch industry’s biggest success stories of the past few years. However, at this point, you might wonder how the brand can continue to surprise us with new PRX models. We have seen a string of new dials, collaborative efforts, and smaller sizes, creating an extensive collection. However, Tissot […] Visit Tissot Adds One Damascus Steel PRX And Two Titanium Versions To The Lineup to read the full article.

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First Look – Atelier Wen Launches Inflection, an Integrated Bracelet Watch in Full-Tantalum Monochrome
Atelier Wen Nov 3, 2025

First Look – Atelier Wen Launches Inflection, an Integrated Bracelet Watch in Full-Tantalum

A Chinese brand founded by two Frenchmen, Atelier Wen, has come a long way since introducing its first watches in 2018. After a break to redefine their brand, the founders launched Perception, a unique combination of a guilloché dial inside an integrated, sporty-chic watch proudly made in China. This collection has given the brand quite some visibility. It’s now time […]

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Review: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar In Lapis Lazuli WatchAdvice
Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Oct 31, 2025

Review: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar In Lapis Lazuli

A forgotten 1970s prototype finally brought to life, the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar Lapis Lazuli is Zenith at its poetic best. A celestial twist on a historic design, this is a watch that feels as timeless as the night sky it represents! What We Love The Lapis Lazuli stone dial is genuinely stunning. A vibrant, rich, and ever-changing under light, perfectly capturing Zenith’s celestial identity. The El Primero 3610 movement keeps the brand’s DNA alive with that iconic 36,000 vph beat and flawless integration of the triple calendar and moon-phase. Despite the dial’s visual complexity, the blue-and-white contrast and colour-matched calendar wheels keep everything clean, legible, and refined. What We Don’t The straight lugs don’t curve down enough, meaning the case can sit slightly proud on smaller wrists. At 14 mm, it’s not overly chunky, but some may find it a little tall, especially under tighter cuffs. As a complete calendar, it still requires five manual date changes a year, not a deal-breaker, but something to note for practicality. Overall Rating: 8.9/10 Value for money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 The story of the Zenith Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar is a fabled one, as it is about a timepiece that never made it to production, up until almost 54 years later, when Zenith went through their archives and found the original plans for this timepiece. While we can say that Zenith might’ve missed out on an incred...

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Farer’s Moonphase Lights Up the Night SJX Watches
Christopher Ward Oct 30, 2025

Farer’s Moonphase Lights Up the Night

Farer has managed to carve out its own niche in the new wave of British-founded, Swiss-made brands, with playful (and skillful) use of colour and accessible pricing. Two new additions to the Moonphase collection continue that pattern: the Stratton and Burbidge feature Farer’s signature cushion-shaped case and crisp detailing that gives them an unmistakably contemporary feel despite their traditional inspiration. The Stratton is the second Farer model to feature a natural stone dial, this time in Eisenkiesel quartz, while the Burbidge, limited to just 100 pieces, flaunts trendy Eastern Arabic numerals and a playful blue-and-pink palette. Initial thoughts Farer’s brand identity is rooted in British design and Swiss production; in this respect it’s similar to Christopher Ward and Fears. The brand offers a playful, and often colourful, twist on traditional tool watch motifs. The Moonphase collection is among the brand’s dressier offerings, and the Stratton and Burbidge are each interesting in their own right. The most eye-catching of the pair is the limited edition Burbidge with Eastern Arabic numerals for the dial and date wheel. The blue and pink colourway is charming and the exotic numerals will likely prove to be something of a ‘secret handshake’ among those who are up-to-date with collector culture. The Stratton, named for British astronomer Frederick Stratton OBE, sticks to regular numerals but features a natural stone dial made of Eisenkiesel. The thickness...

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Introducing – The Airain Type 20 “70 Ans”, a Horizon-Blue Tribute to the French Flyback Chronograph Monochrome
Breguet Mathey-Tissot Oct 24, 2025

Introducing – The Airain Type 20 “70 Ans”, a Horizon-Blue Tribute to the French Flyback Chronograph

Born from the French Ministry of Defence’s Type 20 brief in the mid-1950s, the Type 20 Chronograph watches featured a black dial, a flyback (retour en vol) function, a rotating bezel, and pilot-proof robustness. Alongside fellow suppliers like Breguet, Mathey-Tissot, and Auricoste, Airain’s Type 20 quickly became one of the most recognisable field chronographs. A […]

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Franck Muller’s Vanguard Mexico Edition is Patina’ed, Slim, Minimalist SJX Watches
Franck Muller Oct 24, 2025

Franck Muller’s Vanguard Mexico Edition is Patina’ed, Slim, Minimalist

Thin and time only, the Vanguard Slim is Franck Muller’s take on a modern dress watch. It’s been reimagined by the brand’s distributor in Mexico, Raconli Group, which tapped Marcos Cojab, an architect who’s also a sculptor working under the moniker Alquimiamc. The result is the Vanguard Alquimiamc clad in bronze – the case and dial are aged bronze, brushed by hand. The 15-piece edition is made up of two variants, one in the familiar Vanguard configuration, and another with a minimalist dial free of numerals. Thanks to the styling and materials, both versions are intriguing designs that depart from the usual Franck Muller style. Initial thoughts The Vanguard Slim is one of Franck Muller’s most appealing current models. While the typical Franck Muller is oversized and sometimes over designed, the Vanguard Slim is the opposite – the curved case is under 10 mm high, giving it an elegant profile, while the dial is cleaner thanks to just two hands. Earlier versions of the Vanguard Slim were already simple, but the Alquimiamc goes even further, with less obvious branding, though the version with numerals is still recognisable as the Vanguard. Instead the Alquimiamc emphasises the texture and shading of the aged bronze, which gives it an unusual appeal. Bronze inside and out The Alquimiamc edition is derived from the Vanguard Slim (also known as the Line Cut), a sleek time-only version of Franck Muller’s bestselling model. While the brand is best known for its ext...

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The James Brand and Timex Team Up Again on a New Version of their Hit GMT Worn & Wound
Timex Team Up Again Oct 22, 2025

The James Brand and Timex Team Up Again on a New Version of their Hit GMT

Timex and The James Brand is a collaboration that just makes a lot of sense. On paper, the two brands appear to be from different worlds. Timex is a historically important, mass market watch brand that at one point or another touches the wrist of just about every enthusiast – a true horological gateway drug. The James Brand is a niche EDC brand and decidedly more contemporary. But what binds them together, I think, is a common willingness to experiment and try new things. The James Brand has a catalog full of practical, innovative tools that owners continuously find new ways to put into use. And Timex has quietly been a real innovator in offering interesting, design oriented watches that represent true value to enthusiasts over these last several years, with the launch of Timex Atelier being the best example. The two brands have come together once again with a follow up to a big hit limited edition from last year in the form of a new GMT with a very on trend dial material.  The new version of the James Brand x Timex Automatic GMT, which they’ve dubbed the “Nocturne Edition,” exists on the same platform as last year’s release, with a few notable tweaks. The first notable update is Timex has swapped the titanium case of the previous version for one in stainless steel. The 41mm case has a tough, sandblasted finish, which is what you’d expect from an EDC oriented brand like TJB. The other big change is the new dial crafted from forged carbon fiber. It has the tell...

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A Hands-On Introduction To The Versatile RZE Resolute 36 Fratello
Casio n RZE […] Visit Oct 22, 2025

A Hands-On Introduction To The Versatile RZE Resolute 36

Watch brands are great at celebrating their milestones. It usually leads to one or multiple limited releases commemorating the different events. However, RZE decided to celebrate its fifth anniversary differently. The brand is not releasing a limited edition with a new dial color or another variation of an existing watch. No, for this occasion, RZE […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Versatile RZE Resolute 36 to read the full article.

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Spacing Out With The New Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter - A Watch That Measures Time And Space Fratello
Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter - Oct 22, 2025

Spacing Out With The New Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter - A Watch That Measures Time And Space

When a watch with hands looks alien, it must be an Urwerk. Recently, the brand introduced a non-digital watch that measures time and space with traditional hands on a round dial while still managing to make your watch brain feel weightless. I was spacing out with the Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter when it was still under […] Visit Spacing Out With The New Urwerk UR-10 Spacemeter - A Watch That Measures Time And Space to read the full article.

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Mineral Stones for Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Oct 21, 2025

Mineral Stones for Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon

It took a while, but Audemars Piguet’s Code 11.59 has matured enough that the new debuts are more likely to be interesting than not. The Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon 38 mm with stone dials aren’t a novel proposition, but they are a trio of good looking watches that use the dial design of the Code 11.59 to maximum effect, while also scaling down the case to 38 mm and relying on the impressively constructed cal. 2968. Audemars Piguet (AP) has experimented with various unusual materials for the Code 11.59 dial – the onyx version was launched three years ago – all of which have evidently been commercially successful, explaining the three new models with dials in mineral stones of red ruby root, blue sodalite, and green malachite, respectively. Initial thoughts The Code 11.59 was widely panned at launch in 2019, occasionally unfairly, but it’s evolved in the right direction since. The new tourbillon line-up illustrates this. The wide, relatively deep-set dial of the Code 11.59 makes it a good platform to show off dial patterns and textures, especially when executed in a minimalist way as it is done here. Mineral stone dials are recent fad, so the new Code 11.59 tourbillons aren’t revolutionary, but they look good. The three watches are each in a different colour of gold, but share the same case dimensions of 38 mm by 9.6 mm, making them smaller and thinner than the original, 41 mm version of the Code 11.59 tourbillon. The downsizing gives the case a sur...

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A Hands-On Introduction To The Piaget Andy Warhol “Collage” Limited Edition Fratello
Piaget Andy Warhol “Collage” Limited Oct 20, 2025

A Hands-On Introduction To The Piaget Andy Warhol “Collage” Limited Edition

Andy Warhol once said, “Art is what you can get away with.” Does Piaget get away with the art watch you see here? In collaboration with the Andy Warhol Foundation, the Piaget Andy Warhol “Collage” Limited Edition bursts onto the scene. The watch is a limited edition of 50 pieces, each featuring a dial crafted […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Piaget Andy Warhol “Collage” Limited Edition to read the full article.

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Piaget’s Andy Warhol ‘Collage’ is Abstract Stone Marquetry SJX Watches
Piaget s Andy Warhol ‘Collage’ Oct 20, 2025

Piaget’s Andy Warhol ‘Collage’ is Abstract Stone Marquetry

Piaget pays tribute to the pop-art pioneer and prolific watch collector with the Andy Warhol Watch Collage Limited Edition in the best way it knows how – with an exotic stone dial. Like the watch owned by Warhol himself, the Collage has a black onyx dial, but in between the onyx is yellow serpentine, pink opal, and green chrysoprase, forming a precious stone puzzle carefully assembled by hand. To bring things full circle, this 50 piece limited edition has a yellow gold case, the same alloy Warhol himself wore, and a metal that’s absent from the regular production Any Warhol lineup. Initial Thoughts The first Swiss quartz watches hit the market mere months after the Seiko Astron, powered by the CEH Beta 21 – a large and rectangular movement that gave the oversized watches it powered a distinctive look that I am fond of. Piaget’s ref. 15101, launched in 1972, was one of the most appealing Beta 21 designs by my reckoning. The renowned American artist must have agreed with that assessment as he purchased one in 1973, which Piaget bought back at auction after Warhol’s death. It is also worth noting that Yves Piaget, president of Piaget since 1980, knew Warhol personally. Andy Warhol with Yves Piaget. Image – Piaget The marquetry dial of the Collage puts Piaget’s expertise to good use. It is surprisingly creative, and is not based on a specific Warhol work as already done many times before. Rather, Piaget attempted to recreate Warhol’s process to create a new wor...

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