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Hands-On: The Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole Returns In Gold PVD Fratello
Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole Returns Mar 13, 2025

Hands-On: The Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole Returns In Gold PVD

When Rado reintroduced the Over-Pole as a limited edition in 2022, it came as a single stainless steel model. Today, nearly three years later, a historically correct version in yellow gold PVD is here. With gold-colored watches increasing in popularity, this latest Rado is an elegant option for those who still enjoy tool-watch functionality. We’ve […] Visit Hands-On: The Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole Returns In Gold PVD to read the full article.

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Hands-On With The Holthinrichs Signature Lab Series And The Impressive Ornament Nouveau Fratello
Holthinrichs Signature Lab Series Mar 8, 2025

Hands-On With The Holthinrichs Signature Lab Series And The Impressive Ornament Nouveau

At the end of 2023, Michiel Holthinrichs showed me the first sketches of his new Ornament watches at his atelier in the center of Delft, here in the Netherlands. In May 2024, he finally felt confident enough to officially announce the watches. I hadn’t seen them in real life yet, though, so I was very […] Visit Hands-On With The Holthinrichs Signature Lab Series And The Impressive Ornament Nouveau to read the full article.

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Isotope Introduces a Pair of Mercury Limited Editions for British Watchmakers’ Day Worn & Wound
Isotope Introduces Mar 7, 2025

Isotope Introduces a Pair of Mercury Limited Editions for British Watchmakers’ Day

Suppose you travel frequently between the US and Britain. In that case, one difference you’ll notice pretty swiftly after escaping the airport is the proliferation (and absence) of flags depending on which side of the pond you have arrived. Over here, you’ll typically only see a Union Flag flying outside official buildings, or on literally everything inside the many tourist shops around London. It’s not generally seen outside schools, homes or shops. However, we Brits do let a smidgen of patriotism creep out on occasion. The “Last Night of the Proms” even encourages flag waving (and rhythmic bobbing), and we feel a sense of pride celebrating Olympic medals won by superhuman efforts from individuals we only heard about two and a half hours earlier. Display the Union Flag on a watch and most Brits would turn their nose up. A stylized version of the same idea, but created by a watch brand based in the south of England, started by a gentleman from Portugal, and available in very limited numbers, and it’s a whole lot more acceptable. Sometimes we take a little outside encouragement to embrace such things. Isotope is unveiling two watches for British Watch Makers’ Day 2025, which both make vivid use of the Union Flag – the Mercury BWD Cloisonné and Mercury BWD Micro Marquetry. Isotope’s Mercury was first seen last summer in the form of a limited edition with Revolution, and was followed by a Shadow variant which used the same case and movement but a brushed in...

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First Look: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Feb 26, 2025

First Look: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked

Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary debuts are centred on perpetual calendars (at least for now), marking the closing of one chapter and the opening of another. The ingenious new calibre 7138 perpetual calendar marks a definitive new chapter in the brand’s history, while the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary” Openworked is the swan song for a storied cal. 2120 movement that Audemars Piguet (AP) has relied on for decades. Presented in titanium with a polished BMG bezel, the final edition perpetual calendar is inspired by the Royal Oak pocket watch ref. 25729. This pocket watch lends its sapphire-and-blue aesthetic to the anniversary perpetual calendar, although the pocket watch was ironically powered by a manual wind calibre (as pocket watches tend to be). The ref. 25729PT was a 20-piece limited edition with a matching platinum chain, made in 1992 for the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak Initial thoughts The anniversary edition marks the end of the cal. 5134/5135 (and the preceding cal. 2120/2800), the long-lived perpetual calendar movement that AP launched in 1978. While great in its time, the movement was dated and somewhat low-tech by modern standards. The retirement of the movement is well deserved, and it is certainly going out in style. At a distance the anniversary perpetual calendar is familiar, but up close it reveals details that make it a little bit more interesting than its peers. These include the blue ringed-sapphire dial, retro signatu...

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Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Atwood Wind Vintage Edition Fratello
Oak & Oscar Feb 25, 2025

Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Atwood Wind Vintage Edition

When two of the most likable people in the watch industry collaborate on a watch, only good things can happen, right? With collaborations, success is never a guarantee, but the new Oak & Oscar Atwood Wind Vintage Edition is an absolute winner. The only complaint is that so few will be made. Here at Fratello, […] Visit Introducing: The Oak & Oscar Atwood Wind Vintage Edition to read the full article.

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First Look – The New 38mm AP Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in Sand Gold Monochrome
Audemars Piguet equips Feb 25, 2025

First Look – The New 38mm AP Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in Sand Gold

Marking a first for the recently introduced 38mm iteration of Code 11.59, Audemars Piguet equips its most compact reference with an automatic flying tourbillon. Not just any tourbillon, mind you, but AP’s ultra-thin calibre 2968, aka RD#3. Representing the best of both worlds, the new Code 11.59 Tourbillon fuses a state-of-the-art movement with a graceful […]

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First Look – The Next-Gen Perpetual Calendar Movement of AP also makes it to Code 11.59 Monochrome
Audemars Piguet announced Feb 25, 2025

First Look – The Next-Gen Perpetual Calendar Movement of AP also makes it to Code 11.59

Last year, Audemars Piguet announced the end of the calibre 5134, the automatic movement that has powered most of its modern perpetual calendar watches for the past 10 years – mostly, the classic RO Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar, which performed its swan song with a limited edition made with John Mayer. But the 5134 was not […]

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First Look – The Titanium/BMG AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary” Monochrome
Audemars Piguet announced Feb 25, 2025

First Look – The Titanium/BMG AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary”

Last year, with the John Mayer limited edition, Audemars Piguet announced the end of its older perpetual calendar movement, the calibre 5134. And indeed, as we have seen with the launch of the next-gen Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Selfwinding, there is now a new and modern calibre 7138. But it’s not entirely the end of […]

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Explained: Audemars Piguet’s Revolutionary Perpetual Calendar Cal. 7138 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet s Revolutionary Perpetual Calendar Feb 25, 2025

Explained: Audemars Piguet’s Revolutionary Perpetual Calendar Cal. 7138

Audemars Piguet kicks off its 150th anniversary in a big way with an all-new perpetual calendar movement, the Audemars Piguet Calibre 7138. Making its debut in both the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak, the cal. 7138 is a landmark in traditional perpetual calendars. In fact, the movement is perhaps the most sophisticated and user-friendly perpetual calendar from an establishment brand. The calendar relies on the classic “grand lever” mechanism that’s been reinvented in an ultra-thin manner, but more importantly, the cal. 7138 employs an ingenious and innovative setting mechanism. Consequently, it is impressively intuitive and also foolproof. All the calendar indications are set via the crown, and the movement can’t be broken by setting it at the wrong time. Together, these features mark the cal. 7138 out as one of the most notable perpetual calendar movements on the market today. The cal. 7138 debuts in the Code 11.59 (left) and Royal Oak. Image – Audemars Piguet Initial thoughts The perpetual calendar has long been a key part of the history of Audemars Piguet (AP), especially after the bestselling ref. 5548 was launched in 1978. So a brand-new perpetual calendar for its 150th anniversary is fitting. At the same time, the calibre illustrates AP’s tremendous advances as a vertically integrated, industrial-haute horlogerie manufacture that has developed an splendid stable of in-house calibres in a relatively short period of time. The irony is that the cal. 7138 is almost...

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Yema Introduces Its Superman Swiss Edition To Mark A Strategic Turnaround Fratello
Yema Feb 25, 2025

Yema Introduces Its Superman Swiss Edition To Mark A Strategic Turnaround

We know Yema as an accessible French brand that offers fairly affordable watches. However, with the introduction of the company’s in-house Calibre Manufacture Morteau movements, its prices shifted upward a bit. To ensure that the watchmakers have enough time to work on the higher-end in-house movements and still offer watches at a more affordable price […] Visit Yema Introduces Its Superman Swiss Edition To Mark A Strategic Turnaround to read the full article.

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Announcing the Windup Watch Fair Dallas Lineup! Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Christopher Ward Feb 24, 2025

Announcing the Windup Watch Fair Dallas Lineup!

The countdown to the Windup Watch Fair Dallas is on, and we’re excited to unveil the incredible list of presenting brands who are helping bring this event to life! As the premier gathering for watch enthusiasts, collectors, and those new to the hobby, the Windup Watch Fair is free and open to the public. Just as a reminder, here are the details of our Dallas event: Hickory Street Annex 501 S Second Ave #200, Dallas, TX 75226 Saturday, March 15: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, March 16: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public No registration necessary This year, we are thrilled to have a fantastic lineup of presenting brands who share our love for timepieces and support the watch community. The Windup Watch Fair also wouldn’t be possible without the generous support of our valued lead sponsors, who help make the event a truly special experience: Lead Sponsors Christopher Ward Christopher Ward is an Anglo-Swiss watchmaker with a simple aim: to put premium quality watches within the reach of everyone. Founded in 2004, the company prides itself on combining traditional Swiss watchmaking techniques with contemporary English design. Models like the Bel Canto, Trident, Sealander, and The Twelve are admired among watch lovers, while CW’s Calibre SH21 was the first in-house mechanical movement from an English brand in over 50 years. Oris Oris dives into 2025 with a joyful nod to this special heritage design with the 60th Anniversary Edition, a watch that faithfully revives the charm an...

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: Microsoft Makes a Big Quantum Computing Advancement, Saying Goodbye to Trakke, and Plymouth Prowlers Hit the Auction Block Worn & Wound
Feb 22, 2025

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Microsoft Makes a Big Quantum Computing Advancement, Saying Goodbye to Trakke, and Plymouth Prowlers Hit the Auction Block

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. True Detective Season 5 is Coming  The fourth season of True Detective was divisive to say the least. The Jodie Foster led story set in the Arctic Circle was highly anticipated, and much of the discussion around the show centered around a True Detective mythology that may or may not really exist, perhaps leading viewers off course and less able to get sucked into the story. But no matter what we think of any individual season of True Detective, the concept is so strong, we always want more, and we got some details about the upcoming season 5 recently via Deadline. Issa Lopez is back as showrunner, and production is set to begin in earnest in the next few months. The big news though is that the setting of the show has been revealed as Jamaica Bay, New York, which of course will provide for a very different vibe than Alaska. The new season is expected to air in 2027. The Into Thin Air Debate Rages On  Recently in Slate, writer Laura Miller dove into the most recent round of animus in the ongoing debate over what really happened on Mt. Everest in the famous 1996 expedition that resulted in the deaths of five climbers. Famously chronicled in Into Thin Air by John Krakaue...

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: H. Moser Opens their First US Boutique, the Friendship Trailer, and a Familiar Face Enters the Watch Industry Worn & Wound
H. Moser Opens their First US Feb 15, 2025

Watches, Stories, & Gear: H. Moser Opens their First US Boutique, the Friendship Trailer, and a Familiar Face Enters the Watch Industry

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com. Fred Savage Enters the Vintage Watch Verification Game  While actor Fred Savage is still mostly associated with his iconic run as Kevin Arnold in The Wonder Years, his stock has risen in recent years within the watch community, coming out as a serious collector, particularly of vintage watches. Now he’s turning that enthusiasm into a new business venture, Timepiece Grading Specialists. The mission of TGS is to provide authentication and valuation services to vintage watch collectors (they’ll also provide services like, well, servicing, and storage, for additional fees), and as this article in the New York Times notes, watches that have passed through TGS have already been sold at auction via Sotheby’s, complete with their TGS assessment. We’ve seen many celebrities embrace the watch community, but few have taken the step of entrepreneurship in the way Savage has, so it will be interesting to see how he fares in the notoriously fraught world of vintage watch authentication.  Gary Gets a Suit  Several years back, Gary Shteyngart achieved a level of viral fame in the watch co...

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Introducing – This Silently Released Full-Platinum Omega Speedmaster 321 is a 6-Digit Endgame Speedy Monochrome
Omega Speedmaster 321 Feb 10, 2025

Introducing – This Silently Released Full-Platinum Omega Speedmaster 321 is a 6-Digit Endgame Speedy

Back in early 2019, Omega announced the comeback of the legendary Calibre 321 – or at least a faithful recreation of the movement that powered the brand’s emblematic Speedmaster from its introduction in 1957 until around 1968, when the brand switched to the more reliable Calibre 861. The first watch with this historic movement inside […]

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Introducing: Baltic Hermétique Dual Time Enduropale Edition Fratello
Baltic Hermétique Dual Time Enduropale Feb 6, 2025

Introducing: Baltic Hermétique Dual Time Enduropale Edition

Here’s one from out of the blue! With all our expectations for 2025, we did not foresee a Baltic Hermétique motocross edition, but here we are. More specifically, the Baltic Hermétique Dual Time Enduropale Edition celebrates a new collaboration between the young Parisian brand and a legendary annual enduro event. If you move quickly, you […] Visit Introducing: Baltic Hermétique Dual Time Enduropale Edition to read the full article.

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A Contemporary Watch Collector Goes Vintage with Omega, Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre Quill & Pad
Jaeger-LeCoultre Feb 1, 2025

A Contemporary Watch Collector Goes Vintage with Omega, Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre

To my longtime friends in the watch hobby, and perhaps to regular readers here as well, the mention of my name may conjure up a number of connotations: patron of the independents, fan of A. Lange & Söhne, admirer of Patek Philippe grand complications, and longtime customer of Jaeger-LeCoultre, among other characterizations more or less favorable. But vintage?

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Retrospective: Tomas Reflects On His Watch-Collecting Decisions Of 2024 Fratello
Jan 30, 2025

Retrospective: Tomas Reflects On His Watch-Collecting Decisions Of 2024

With our long-lasting Thursday vintage column rebranded, it would be criminal not to look back closely at my 2024 watch-collecting moves. Here are some highlights: my obsession with vintage Gallet chronographs goes on (with room for impulse purchases still there), and I invested more in research, lost motivation to share on social media, and struggled […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Reflects On His Watch-Collecting Decisions Of 2024 to read the full article.

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Ulysse Nardin Taps Designer Amoureuxpeintre for a Minimalist Skeleton SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Taps Designer Amoureuxpeintre Jan 30, 2025

Ulysse Nardin Taps Designer Amoureuxpeintre for a Minimalist Skeleton

A monochromatic reinterpretation of Ulysse Nardin’s skeleton watch with a prominent “X”, the Blast “Amoureuxpeintre” is a collaboration with Vsevolod “Sever” Cherepanov, a Kyrgyz streetwear designer also known as Amoureuxpeintre who was one of the first to use augmented reality prints on fabric. Restrained and minimalist, the new Blast has a 42 mm sandblasted titanium case and an unusual frosted sapphire dial that partially hides the skeletonised “X” movement, leaving the calibre only faintly visible. According to Ulysse Nardin, the artist drew inspiration for the design from frosted glass panels found in offices. Initial thoughts Renowned for pioneering silicon components in mechanical watchmaking with its groundbreaking Freak, Ulysse Nardin has made some odd design choices in recent years, including the decision to make the letter “X” a centrepiece of its designs. The collaboration with Amoureuxpeintre hides the “X” and transforms the Blast case into something low-key with its all-black finish, and the result is a surprisingly different, and appealing watch. Styling aside, the latest Blast is typical Ulysse Nardin in terms of mechanics, which is to say accomplished. Although the Blast collection does not share the same status or historical significance of the Freak, it still demonstrates Ulysse Nardin’s commitment to contemporary horology with a high-spec, in-house movement that has all of its regulator – hairspring, balance, escape, and pal...

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Fratello’s Seven Reasons To Buy A Microbrand Watch Fratello
Casio nally admits Jan 29, 2025

Fratello’s Seven Reasons To Buy A Microbrand Watch

Here at Fratello, we’re fans of microbrand watches. There’s something about these watches, often from younger, smaller brands, that the heritage brands can’t offer. We write about many of them. Thomas even started a microbrand of his own, and even RJ occasionally admits to appreciating them from time to time. But what makes these microbrand […] Visit Fratello’s Seven Reasons To Buy A Microbrand Watch to read the full article.

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Bulgari Introduces the Serpenti Automatic SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces Jan 24, 2025

Bulgari Introduces the Serpenti Automatic

Bulgari upgrades its signature snake-inspired watch with an all-new, in-house movement. Retaining the familiar oval case, the Serpenti Automatic debuts in two variants, the Serpenti Seduttori Automatic and Serpenti Tubogas Automatic, both equipped with the BVS100 calibre. A hint of where the LVMH watch brands are going, the BVS100 is a compact, workhorse automatic movement developed by Bulgari and slated to be produced by sister brand Zenith for other brands in the LVMH stable. Initial thoughts The historical Serpenti in enamel is arguably an iconic women’s watch, and the modern-day take on the design is bigger, bolder, and sports cleaner lines. While the Serpenti Seduttori is more subtle, the Tubogas version is especially compelling with its double-twirl bracelet that is classic Bulgari. The in-house movement is a worthy upgrade for this iconic design, although the movement is an industrial calibre rather than a high-end creation. That, however, is reflected in the relatively affordable price of the entry-level models, which start at about US$10,000. While the price is on the high side for a time-only watch with a straightforward automatic movement, it can be rationalised by the iconic design and excellent bracelet work, even on the base models. All-new movement The Serpenti Seduttori is offered in seven distinct variations - stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, rose gold two-tone, and white gold - with the option of diamond settings for the yellow gold and whit...

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Hublot Scales Down the Meca-10 to 42 mm SJX Watches
Hublot Scales Down Jan 21, 2025

Hublot Scales Down the Meca-10 to 42 mm

Hublot’s latest release, the Big Bang Meca-10 10-Day Power Reserve, may at first glance resemble the chunky original, but reveals a host of significant enhancements - most notably, a more wearable 42 mm case. The new Meca-10 retains the Meccano-inspired skeletonised movement finished to colour-match the case. The calibre boasts a 10-day power reserve indicated by an uncommon crémaillère system visible at 12 o’clock made up of a linear gear engaging a circular gear. Initial thoughts Long one of the more interesting but accessible watches in Hublot’s lineup, the Meca-10 was previously available only in a 45 mm case that rendered it less-than-wearable. Hublot has refined the Meca-10 by reducing the case diameter by substantial 3 mm, making it positively compact relative to its predecessor. Not only is the case smaller, it is also thinner at just 13.9 mm high, which is slim for a watch of this type. But the signature movement architecture has been retained, resulting in a watch that has the technical appeal of the original, but one more versatile and comfortable. While it may initially appear to be yet another skeletonised Hublot, of which there are many, the Meca-10 boasts an interesting manual-winding movement with an impressive 10-day power reserve and a distinctive movement architecture. Amongst Hublot’s more exotic watches, the Meca-10 stands out as being relatively affordable, with the key word being relatively. It starts at US$23,000 in titanium (and rises ...

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