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Atelier Wen Launches the Inflection, a Bold New Watch with a Tantalum Case and Bracelet Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet Nov 3, 2025

Atelier Wen Launches the Inflection, a Bold New Watch with a Tantalum Case and Bracelet

Sometimes a watch comes along that feels like a culmination of something. The Atelier Wen Inflection, for anyone who has been following the brand or had a conversation with founder Robin Tallendier in the last few years, will likely have more than a whiff of that. After years of teases, hints, and lots of evidence of lofty ambitions, Atelier Wen’s full tantalum integrated bracelet sports watch is finally here.  I don’t think it’s overstating to say that the use of tantalum in watchmaking has been a bit of an obsession for the Atelier Wen team. The metal, in a lot of ways, feels like one of the last remaining frontiers of high end watchmaking. It’s rarely used because it’s so difficult to work with, but has a bunch of desirable qualities that make it highly sought after by collectors. The color, for one, is unlike any other metal, often exhibiting a hint of a blue tint. It’s also heavy and dense, resulting in a completely unique wearing experience that, if you like a heftier watch on your wrist, is kind of addictive. We’ve begun to see more brands experiment with tantalum in their watches in recent years, including J.N. Shapiro and Audemars Piguet, and even more have used it as an accent in some way.  But regular production tantalum watches are incredibly rare, and according to Atelier Wen, the Inflection is the first serially produced tantalum watch with a full tantalum bracelet. It’s been in the works at Atelier Wen since at least 2022, and follows the l...

Why Every Watch Collector Needs A “Calatrava” Fratello
IWC Calatrava” Cal 89 Nov 3, 2025

Why Every Watch Collector Needs A “Calatrava”

There’s something about a classic dress watch that resonates beyond fleeting trends. For me, it all started with the vintage IWC “Calatrava” Cal. 89 that I inherited from my grandfather. It is a watch from a bygone era when watchmaking was all about understated elegance, mechanical mastery, and timeless design. Recently, my Fratello colleagues discussed […] Visit Why Every Watch Collector Needs A “Calatrava” to read the full article.

The Eight Best Italian Watch Brands in 2026 Teddy Baldassarre
Nov 1, 2025

The Eight Best Italian Watch Brands in 2026

Watchmaking is a trade that draws artisans and enthusiasts from around the globe, though as an industry it has taken root in only a relative handful of nations. Switzerland, of course, is widely recognized as the world leader in the horological arts, but nations including Japan and Germany have also made a name for themselves on the world watchmaking stage. As watch connoisseurship grows in the 21st century, former watchmaking powers like Great Britain, the United States, and France have started increasing their footprint in the industry. Italy, another country historically renowned for its meticulous craftsmanship and bold, stylish design language, has exerted its own small but impactful influence on the world of watches: it’s the birthplace of Panerai, for example, a brand that essentially opened the door for old-school military tool watches to enter the rarefied air of luxury. It’s also the ancestral home of Bulgari, which, despite being more famous for its jewelry, has earned awestruck respect in the watch world for its record-breaking, boundary-pushing ultra-thin complications. Even Italy’s world-famous luxury sports-car marques - Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati - have exerted a muse-like influence on watchmakers worldwide, in both design and technology, often through direct partnerships. Watches actually made in Italy, however, are relatively few - Panerai and Bulgari are far too rooted in Switzerland nowadays to be considered for this list - but each co...

The Most Expensive Watch Brands: From Mainstream To Niche Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 31, 2025

The Most Expensive Watch Brands: From Mainstream To Niche

The world of high-end watches is a bit mysterious, and that is largely by design. Flagship pieces are produced in limited quantities, and pricing generally falls into the "contact us for details" realm for many of the most expensive watch brands. New mechanical innovations make headlines and push the industry and its trends forward, but this comes at a cost, with the best in the game building a certain reputation by doing this consistently over the course of generations. The ultimate value that buyers and enthusiasts will perceive in these watches is created in time, and it goes without saying that this value is quite subjective in nature.  There are a multitude of details that become more apparent, and are even demanded, at the higher end of watchmaking, however. There are vast differences in materials, finishing techniques, and even mechanical aspects such as an uncommon escapement design or power reserve delivery that separate the very top brands from what you might find at your local jeweler. Understanding the world’s most expensive brands will mean having a grasp on these differences. This is the kind of knowledge that will also go a long way in appreciating watchmaking as the art form that it is.  As great art is more than some canvas over a wood frame, a mechanical watch is far more than some screws, springs, and gears. Within a watch, each of these components offer the watchmaker an opportunity for creative expression in the kinds of materials they chose to use...

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 2 -  Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Oct 31, 2025

Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 2 - Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds

Welcome to the second match in the Fratello Dress Watch Season contest, our effort to identify the best new dress watch of 2025. The series continues with a duo of proper heavy hitters. Match two in round one sees Jorg defending the Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition. Daan will make his case for […] Visit Fratello Dress Watch Season: Round 1, Match 2 - Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds to read the full article.

Introducing: The Three-Watch-Strong Lebois & Co Heritage Small Seconds Collection Fratello
Oct 30, 2025

Introducing: The Three-Watch-Strong Lebois & Co Heritage Small Seconds Collection

After a series of chronographs, the Dutch-based brand Lebois & Co returns with a trio of three-handers. Please welcome the Heritage Small Seconds collection. The silver Script, blue Baton, and black Numeral Founder’s Launch editions are COSC-certified chronometers with perks for early adopters. A “Chronomètre Lebois & Co” sweater inspired by Parisian streetwear is waiting […] Visit Introducing: The Three-Watch-Strong Lebois & Co Heritage Small Seconds Collection to read the full article.

A Few Slightly Less Obvious, Loosely Cohesive Perspectives On Watch Design Fratello
Oct 25, 2025

A Few Slightly Less Obvious, Loosely Cohesive Perspectives On Watch Design

Wristwatches have been mainstream for a little over a century now. This gives us a decent timeframe to reflect on watch design and its evolution. We tend to throw terms like “watch design” and “aesthetics” around loosely, but I feel that these concepts warrant a closer look and a slightly wider perspective. Consider this my […] Visit A Few Slightly Less Obvious, Loosely Cohesive Perspectives On Watch Design to read the full article.

Oris Slims Down their Most Extreme Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Oris Slims Down their Most Oct 23, 2025

Oris Slims Down their Most Extreme Dive Watch

It sure is a good time to be a watch enthusiast with smaller wrists, with so many brands finally scaling down popular references, or creating new, slimmer and smaller models to modernize their lineups. Though not explicitly marketed as a more minuscule version of the AquisPro 4000m, Oris’ new AquisPro 1000m dials down the bulkiness of the original for a newer reference that should be more wearable, and still incredibly capable.  When Oris first released the AquisPro 4000m in 2023, it boasted frankly insane water resistance-after all, who aside from the most daring divers are going 4,000 meters down-and a multi-piece titanium case that measured in at a whopping 49.5mm in diameter and about 23mm in thickness. Even as someone who enjoys large watches, that is bordering on unwearable in everyday circumstances, even though it is a fun piece to admire for its brawn and brutish capability. Still, it wore a beautiful ocean blue dial with a wave pattern that signaled its status as an appropriately pretty Oris timepiece, and featured the brand’s Oris Rotation Safety System (ORSS) to keep the bezel locked in place.  The new 1000m version carries forth the titanium construction and 49.5mm case size, but manages to slim down the thickness to a much more wearable 16.6mm. Additional measurements include 55mm lug-to-lug and 26.3mm lug widths, and the multi-piece titanium case is coated in gray PVD. The ORSS returns, too, with a ceramic bezel insert to spice up the familiar blue ...

Citizen Nighthawk Review: The Military Pilots' Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Citizen Oct 22, 2025

Citizen Nighthawk Review: The Military Pilots' Watch

Citizen's fleet of Promaster Pilot watches offer an array of styles and complications for the aviation-watch enthusiast, and the Nighthawk models occupy a specific niche within the overall collection thanks to their bold, no-nonsense design drawn from military helicopter cockpits. Here is what you should know about the Citizen Nighthawk, and a showcase of the models that have most resonated with enthusiasts. The flight of the Nighthawk begins with the Promaster. In fact, Citizen’s Promaster collection - established in 1989 and built around the concept of rugged yet stylish, multifunctional timepieces aimed at sea, air, and land professionals - could be described as the massive aircraft carrier from which many Citizen pilots’ watches have been launched. From this now-emblematic collection emerged many of the famous Citizen tool watches we’re familiar with today, categorized under Promaster Marine (dive watches including the Eco-Drive and Mechanical Professional Divers as well as the high-tech Aqualand); Promaster Land (including the altimeter-equipped Altichron and ana-digi Combination Watch) and Promaster Sky, which includes GMTs like the Eco-Drive Geo-Trekker and the now-familiar “Hawk” watches with multiple aviation-centric functions, like the Skyhawk, Navihawk, and Nighthawk. What makes the Nighthawk models stand out from their high-flying peers? It is the most military in its aesthetic, with a dial design inspired by the instruments found in the cockpits ...

Chrono24 & Fratello: Secondary Watch Market Report H1 2025 Fratello
Oct 22, 2025

Chrono24 & Fratello: Secondary Watch Market Report H1 2025

Being part of the same group of companies as Chrono24 has its advantages: Fratello has access to the unrivaled data pool and insights of the world’s leading marketplace for luxury watches. With over 9 million monthly users and more than 560,000 listed watches, there is plenty to analyze and learn. We sat down with their […] Visit Chrono24 & Fratello: Secondary Watch Market Report H1 2025 to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Watch Case Materials Fratello
Oct 16, 2025

Fratello Talks: Watch Case Materials

In this week’s episode of Fratello Talks, Nacho, RJ, and Lex tackle the very foundation of our watches - the case materials. From trusty steel to precious gold, lightweight titanium, and futuristic ceramics, the trio dives into what distinguishes these materials, their unique features, and why they make a difference when wearing a watch every […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watch Case Materials to read the full article.

The One Watch Collection: Our Contributors Weigh In Worn & Wound
Rolex Datejust “Wimbledon” I have Oct 14, 2025

The One Watch Collection: Our Contributors Weigh In

The “One Watch Collection” is one of our favorite thought experiments. Thinking through whether we could scale back, or if we started over, if we’d do things differently, helps many of us hone in on what makes the watches we love special in the first place. Today, our contributors wrestle with the idea of a one watch collection, making their choices for the watch they’d wear forever, and explaining their thought process.  As always, we want to hear from you. Let us know in the comments if a one watch collection is even feasible, and what your one watch choice would be. Alec Dent – Rolex Datejust “Wimbledon” I have what you might call a theoretical fondness for the one-watch collection. I love the idea, but I also have more than one watch and can’t imagine selling most of the watches in my collection. If I could go back to the beginning of my watch collecting journey, though, there’s no doubt in my mind that I’d be a one-watch guy and that that watch would be a Rolex Datejust. It’s water resistant to 100m, it’s durable, it can be dressed up or dressed down, and it epitomizes classic design. What more could you need from a watch? I’m particularly partial to the 36mm two-tone “Wimbledon” dial with a fluted bezel and a jubilee bracelet, but the Datejust has been around for so long - 80 years this year! - there are countless variations from which to choose. (If I wasn’t here advocating for the Datejust as a one-watch collection, I might adva...

First Look – The New Tissot Classic Dream Powermatic 80, a Sub-500 Entry-Level Swiss Watch with Substance Monochrome
Tissot Classic Dream Powermatic 80 Oct 9, 2025

First Look – The New Tissot Classic Dream Powermatic 80, a Sub-500 Entry-Level Swiss Watch with Substance

Tissot is basking in the limelight these days with a string of attractive models at unbeatable prices that have quite literally flown off the shelves, including the much-coveted PRX integrated sports watch. However, suppose you are in the market for a more traditional, clean-cut, daily, three-hand-and-date companion? Well, Tissot’s Classic Dream collection has just expanded […]

Audemars Piguet Has Reinvented The Chronograph: What Does It Mean To The Watch World? Fratello
Audemars Piguet Has Reinvented Oct 9, 2025

Audemars Piguet Has Reinvented The Chronograph: What Does It Mean To The Watch World?

Audemars Piguet is celebrating its 150th anniversary by introducing plenty of novelties, and they’re not watches. The brand from Le Brassus is also presenting new movements. The latest perpetual calendars now feature an ingenious crown, for instance, but the biggest news of the year is undoubtedly the launch of the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding […] Visit Audemars Piguet Has Reinvented The Chronograph: What Does It Mean To The Watch World? to read the full article.

A. Lange & Söhne’s Very-Thin Saxonia Gets an Onyx Makeover SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Oct 4, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne’s Very-Thin Saxonia Gets an Onyx Makeover

Almost exactly a year after the Lange 1 with an onyx dial, A. Lange & Söhne is following up with the Saxonia Thin Onyx. It’s essentially an upgraded version of Lange’s simplest and most affordable model, replacing the conventional silver dial with one of polished onyx stone. Available in either platinum or Honeygold – each is limited to 200 pieces – the Saxonia Thin Onyx is even more of a formal dress watch than its regular production counterpart. Notably, both variants are unique editions of the model as neither platinum or Honeygold is part of the standard offering. Initial thoughts Last year’s Lange 1 30th Anniversary with an onyx dial was an exceedingly simple but extremely appealing watch. Lange has applied the same formula to the Saxonia Thin with equal success. Admittedly, the makeover isn’t imaginative or novel, but the result is striking. The Saxonia Thin Onyx is utterly simple yet unusually reflective thanks to the polished stone dial. The look and feel is that of an ideal black tie watch. It’s probably a bit too concise and shiny for everyday wear, but I wouldn’t mind one on the wrist. Choosing between the two is difficult. They are very different yet very much the same. Both, in fact, retail for exactly the same. The platinum version has a slight edge for me, simply because of general preference for the metal. The new dial and case metal, however, come at a hefty premium. The standard model in gold retails for a bit under US$25,000, while the o...

Introducing: The Praesidus × The Watch Observer A-11 Type 44 - A Limited WWII Tribute Fratello
Oct 1, 2025

Introducing: The Praesidus × The Watch Observer A-11 Type 44 - A Limited WWII Tribute

Praesidus, a brand devoted to authentic WWII recreations, has teamed up with French watch news site The Watch Observer for a limited edition of its A-11 Type 44. Limited to 250 numbered watches, the new model pays tribute to the US Air Force’s 533rd Bomb Squadron. If that doesn’t immediately ring a bell, it is […] Visit Introducing: The Praesidus × The Watch Observer A-11 Type 44 - A Limited WWII Tribute to read the full article.

Esha Gupta talks watches, and Andrew reveals his new watch alert! Time+Tide
Sep 29, 2025

Esha Gupta talks watches, and Andrew reveals his new watch alert!

Andrew welcomes Bollywood actress, model, environmentalist, and Indian superstar Esha Gupta to the Time+Tide London Watch Discovery Studio, where they dive into the worlds of cinema and watches with passion and insight. Their conversation reveals Esha’s love for watches, which she views as expressions of personality and storytelling, rather than mere status symbols. Andrew showcases … ContinuedThe post Esha Gupta talks watches, and Andrew reveals his new watch alert! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Dubai Watch Week 2025 Panel Highlights and Rolex CEO Keynote SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Chopard Sep 29, 2025

Dubai Watch Week 2025 Panel Highlights and Rolex CEO Keynote

In less than two months, industry leaders will gather in Dubai for Dubai Watch Week (DWW), an event that has become a focal point of the industry since launching a decade ago. The 2025 edition will take place from November 19-23 in a new 200,000 sq ft venue next to Dubai Mall in order accommodate a slate of 90 brands; the largest line-up in its history, up nearly 50% compared to the 2023 edition. As ever, a highlight of DWW is the opportunity to hear directly from industry leaders during the various panel discussions. This year’s line-up includes some of the biggest names in watchmaking with a keynote from Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour, in conversation with Abdul Hamied Seddiqi, provocatively titled, ‘The Time to Act is Now – a note to the watch industry.” Mr Dufour rarely speaks publicly at a watch event, so this is one of the most significant happenings at DWW. In total, more than 50 sessions will take place across the five days of the event covering a variety of topics ranging from luxury and legacy in the age of algorithms and virality, to the reality of future-proofing founder-led independent brands; the latter will be a fireside chat with Max Büsser and Kari Voutilainen. There will also be a new chief executive roundtable featuring Georges Kern, Ilaria Resta, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, and Julien Tornare, the heads of Breitling, Audemars Piguet, Chopard, and Hublot, respectively. DWW takes place from November 19-23, 2025 in Burj Park adjacent t...