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Breaking News: Seiko Exits Baselworld 2020 SJX Watches
Citizen has been relegated Nov 7, 2019

Breaking News: Seiko Exits Baselworld 2020

Switzerland’s biggest watch and jewellery fair will see one of its biggest exhibitors, Seiko, depart next year reports Yasuhito Shibuya of Chronos Japan. A Baselworld exhibitor since 1986, the Japanese watchmaker joins the stream of brands that have been departing the event since industry giant Swatch Group’s shock exit last year. According to Mr Shibuya, Seiko’s official reason for leaving is “because the opening time of Baselworld in 2020 is later than usual”, happening in May instead of the traditional March. Mr Shibuya also adds: “The fair happens a month later, coinciding with the Golden Week in Japan – a period with four consecutive national holidays within seven days. This is a particularly disappointing time for Japanese watchmakers.” “From the location of the booth to the floor plan of the fair [with Seiko’s booth on the second level], I do not think that Seiko has received equal treatment [as compared to Swiss brands]” noted Mr Shibuya. Despite its importance, both commercially and culturally, Seiko, along with fellow Japanese brands Casio and Citizen, has been relegated to the upper floor of the main exhibition hall since the venue’s lavish redesign in 2013. The loss of Seiko is no doubt a major blow to Baselworld, which has historically been a cash cow for exhibition organiser MCH Group, which also owns the Art Basel franchise. Instead of Baselworld, Seiko will launch its new products earlier in the year. However, according to a Seiko...

Hands-On: Longines Avigation Type A-7 “The Hour Glass” in Bronze SJX Watches
Montblanc 1858 chronograph which develops Nov 6, 2019

Hands-On: Longines Avigation Type A-7 “The Hour Glass” in Bronze

Following the launch of the Sinn 356 Pilot Chronograph limited edition to mark the 40th anniversary of The Hour Glass, the retailer has just announced yet another pilot’s chronograph, but this time, one that is more unusual and striking, the Longines Avigation Type A-7 1935 in bronze. Characterised by an askew dial and movement, the Type A-7 “The Hour Glass” is based on the second-generation, 2016 reissue of the chronograph Longines supplied to the US Army Air Corps in the 1930s that was known as the “Type A-7”. Striking colourways Though the distinctive case style is retained, the commemorative edition is made even more unusual by an attractive material and colour combination. The case is bronze and paired with either a blue or champagne dial finished with a metallic, sun ray-brushed finish. While bronze might seem a bit too fashionable, especially in this price segment, it’s surprisingly uncommon for Longines. In fact, the new Type A-7 is only the second Longines watch to have a bronze case; the first was the Heritage Military Kuwait limited edition. The case is made of phosphor bronze (CuSn8), an alloy that is 92% copper and 8% tin. In contrast to the aluminium-bronze alloys, used in watches like the Tudor Black Bay Bronze or Montblanc 1858 chronograph, which develops a brownish patina, phosphor bronze has a more reddish tone and develops a blue-green, sunken-treasure oxidisation over time. While the vintage Type A-7 was a 51mm diameter cockpit instrumen...

HOW TO: Take the perfect Instagram wristshot Time+Tide
Nov 6, 2019

HOW TO: Take the perfect Instagram wristshot

Editor’s note: I’m sure that at one point or another you’ve been wearing your favourite watch and thought, “This is definitely ‘gram’ worthy”. But taking the perfect wrist shot is by no means a simple task. In fact, it’s an art form that can be exceedingly complicated and multifaceted. Luckily for us, however, back in … ContinuedThe post HOW TO: Take the perfect Instagram wristshot appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: Keeping it classy with the Breguet Classique 5177 Time+Tide
Breguet Classique 5177 Nov 5, 2019

VIDEO: Keeping it classy with the Breguet Classique 5177

Of all of the high-quality, well-finished and technically impressive Breguet watches, it is probably the Breguet Classique 5177 that you think of when you consider modern watches from the brand, and there’s a very good reason for that. Its spartan conservatism forces you to look for any notes of flair or extravagance, and you’re rewarded … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Keeping it classy with the Breguet Classique 5177 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

High Rollers – 3 of the most expensive timepieces at Only Watch 2019 Time+Tide
Nov 5, 2019

High Rollers – 3 of the most expensive timepieces at Only Watch 2019

With Only Watch 2019 now just a few short days away, there’s a veritable smorgasbord of gorgeous piece-unique watches and timekeeping devices heading to the auction block. In fact, there are 50 watches in total taking part in this year’s charity auction, with all funds raised going to the research of Duchenne muscular dystrophy. And … ContinuedThe post High Rollers – 3 of the most expensive timepieces at Only Watch 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights from Jean-Claude Biver’s Collection on Show in Geneva SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet where he started his Nov 5, 2019

Highlights from Jean-Claude Biver’s Collection on Show in Geneva

Now the non-executive chairman of the watch division at LVMH, Jean-Claude Biver has enjoyed a remarkable career in the watch industry that has spanned some 45 years. That success has enabled him to build a timepiece collection that is both magnificent and diverse, ranging from vintage Patek Philippe to modern independent watchmaking. Now the entire collection will be on display for the first time at Phillips in Geneva, after which it will embark on a world tour. Bookends of Mr Biver’s career so far: a Royal Oak ref. 5402 ST by Audemars Piguet, where he started his career And a Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Chronograph Titled Jean-Claude Biver: A Retrospective. Share, Respect, Forgive, the exhibition includes two dozen watches – including some lovely Patek Philippe pocket watches – that are amongst the best examples of 20th century watchmaking. Notably, the collection also includes several watches by prominent independent watchmakers, many of which were relatively recent purchases. They include a Philippe Dufour Simplicity in rose gold – the exact watch we featured several weeks ago in fact – and a fresh-off-the-press Akrivia Chronometre Contemporain in platinum. According to an inside source, Mr Biver’s late-in-life interest in independent watchmaking, and also the Rolex Daytona “Zenith”, is the result of counsel from his son, Pierre, who is a specialist at Phillips’ London office, showing that the love of watches can be hereditary. A Patek Philippe Ref. 15...

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Joker Selfie for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
Konstantin Chaykin Nov 5, 2019

Up Close: Konstantin Chaykin Joker Selfie for Only Watch 2019

Though the Konstantin Chaykin Joker Selfie was already explained in great detail by Bjorn Meijer a couple of weeks ago, it’s compelling enough for a second, quick look, since I just received a new set of photos. Konstantin’s standard Joker (or Clown) wristwatch is well known, while also being fairly straight forward mechanically. The one-off Joker Selfie he created for the upcoming Only Watch charity auction is fundamentally and dramatically different, although the shares the familiar funny face. To start with the case is made of bulat, a high carbon steel alloy better known as Wootz steel. Sometimes incorrectly known as Damascus steel, bulat is an alloy with a patterned surface that’s a result of the metals mixed within. The irregular structure of the alloy, combined with its hardness, means it was a challenge to make the Joker Selfie case. Konstantin only completed the case after two discarded cases due to structural problems that emerged after machining. The Joker Selfie tells the time like the standard Joker, with the pupils in each eye pointing to the time, with a moon phase display incorporated into the mouth of the clown. And it has the day of the week, indicated with emoticons, much like Alain Silberstein’s trademark “smileday”, at 12 o’clock. But it also has an additional “secret” display, with a swivelling lever under the dial that covers either the hours or the day of the week display. It’s a gravity-activated mechanism that shows the hours ...

RECOMMENDED READING: Exploding a Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT We have Nov 5, 2019

RECOMMENDED READING: Exploding a Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT

We have recommended taking a look at the master watchmaker Peter Speake-Marin deconstructing various watches in the past, and that’s because how interesting it is to get a proper look into some of the most popular watches out there. What makes this deconstruction by Peter interesting is that it is with the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Exploding a Grand Seiko Hi-Beat GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Quill & Pad’s Predictions For The Aiguille d’Or (Grand Prize) Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Quill & Pad
Nov 4, 2019

Quill & Pad’s Predictions For The Aiguille d’Or (Grand Prize) Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève

The most interesting aspect of the Aiguille d’Or is how the winner won’t always be the most complicated, expensive, or groundbreaking. To win the Aiguille d’Or, a watch needs to be a fantastic all-around watch and have that little something extra, that 'je ne sais quoi.' So which watch has our panel set its sights upon? There is much discussion, of course . . .

Interview: Wilhelm Schmid of A. Lange & Söhne on the Odysseus SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Nov 4, 2019

Interview: Wilhelm Schmid of A. Lange & Söhne on the Odysseus

Shortly before A. Lange & Söhne launched the Odysseus Datomatic, its chief executive Wilhelm Schmid was in Singapore to officially reopen its revamped boutique. But perhaps more importantly, he was available to discuss the Odysseus, which I did. In the articulate and frank manner that is his style, Mr Schmid outlined the rationale behind the Odysseus, how it came to be, and drops a few hints as to where it’s going. Read what he had to say below. The interview was edited for clarity and length. You have established Lange’s reputation for watches of high quality; quality that no one disputes. Now you’re taking the next step into a different segment. What’s the rationale behind this? We have not changed our fine watchmaking, [but we had to decide:] do we answer the question that has been raised by many customers over many years? If you do something like that, you have to be unique, you have to be different, and it has to be of some interest for the customer. We rather not provide an answer than provide the wrong answer. So it took us a long time to find the face and find the design. And then after we created the idea, [we had to create] something which will be recognisable within this sort of design, [with] the push buttons, the day-date complications. Then, how can we use that to create a family? It’s always easy to come up with one watch. It’s often more difficult if you want to have a recognisable face that can have different iterations and complications lat...

Paradise overseas with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Editor’s note Nov 4, 2019

Paradise overseas with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Editor’s note: A couple of years ago, Andrew and the team were lucky enough to travel to Lord Howe Island to explore the Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection and, in the process, enjoy the unbelievable scenery of volcanic spires and fish-filled shallows. While the setting was one of the most remarkable on earth, the focus was … ContinuedThe post Paradise overseas with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction preview highlights at Phillips Game Changers Time+Tide
Nov 2, 2019

Auction preview highlights at Phillips Game Changers

Later this year, Phillips, in association with Bacs & Russo, are hosting the Game Changers auction, which will be offering some of the most important watches to ever meet the public market, including watches owned by golfer Jack Nicklaus, and actors Marlon Brando and Robert Downey Jr, as well as incredibly rare vintage examples of … ContinuedThe post Auction preview highlights at Phillips Game Changers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Minase Introduces the Divido with Dégradé Dial SJX Watches
Minase Nov 2, 2019

Minase Introduces the Divido with Dégradé Dial

Having been established by Kyowa Co., Ltd, a precision toolmaker that also produces watch cases and bracelets, Minase is a brand that excels in, well, cases and bracelets. Its specialty is the high degree of surface finishing of the case and bracelet using the Zaratsu, or Sallaz, polishing technique that creates a remarkably flat, mirrored surface. Minase just gave its flagship Divido a new dégradé dial, which has a dark grey finish that darkens to black around the edges. Though similar looking dials are offered by Swiss watchmakers, and sometimes known as fumè or smoked dials, the new Divido dial is distinctly Japanese. Inspired by Japanese sumi-e paintings – that rely on different concentrations of black ink for shading and depth – the dégradé dial starts as a copper disc that is the hand-painted with several layers of black Japanese lacquer, each layer with a different concentration of black, creating the graduated finish and leaving each dial unique. The dégradé lacquer dial costs about 10% more than the standard model, which is reasonable. The rest of the watch is identical to the standard Divido, which is to say extremely sharply finished. All components of the case and bracelet are produced and finished in house. Every surface of the case is finished, with contrasting brushed and polished surfaces employed throughout. Even the folding clasp sports with a mix of surfaces finishes. The polished surfaces are finished with the Zaratsu technique – that...

Monac-oh yeah! An overview of all 5 TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition watches Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition watches Nov 2, 2019

Monac-oh yeah! An overview of all 5 TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition watches

This year we were lucky enough to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the TAG Heuer Monaco. It was in the last year of the 1960s that the brand (just Heuer at the time) released their iconic watch that was one of the first ever automatic chronographs, and was cemented as a legend when it was … ContinuedThe post Monac-oh yeah! An overview of all 5 TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: Urwerk x De Bethune Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019 SJX Watches
De Bethune Moon Satellite Nov 1, 2019

Hands-On: Urwerk x De Bethune Moon Satellite for Only Watch 2019

The collaboration between Urwerk and De Bethune for the upcoming Only Watch is pretty straightforward: an Urwerk wandering hours time display module mounted on a De Bethune base movement, and housed in a De Bethune case. But it works, and the Moon Satellite is one of the coolest watches of the charity auction. Conceptually the Moon Satellite is similar to the Arpal One made for the last Only Watch. Long and sleek, the Arpal One was a collaboration between Urwerk and Laurent Ferrier that looked good, but with an enormous case – it was 60.8m long – that was much too large. The Moon Satellite, on the other hand, is just right. That’s because the case is derived from De Bethune DB28, which is a large watch but one with a smallish footprint and sprung, pivoted lugs that allow it to hug the wrist. The Moon Satellite is slightly larger than a DB28, but almost the same on the wrist. Entirely in mirror polished titanium, the case looks like a helmet for a warrior robot. Its shape is asymmetric – angular on the lower half and rounded at the top – in order to accommodate the time display. It’s reminiscent of a helmet, but instantly recognisable as coming from Urwerk, having the U-shaped crystal first found on the Urwerk UR-103 and now on the UR-105. Coincidentally, both Urwerk and De Bethune position the crowns on most of their watches at 12 o’clock, and so there it is. Though it has a similar shape to the standard Urwerk crown, the Moon Satellite crown is flat, so tha...

Montblanc Introduces the 1858 Split Second Chronograph with a Jade Dial SJX Watches
Montblanc Introduces Nov 1, 2019

Montblanc Introduces the 1858 Split Second Chronograph with a Jade Dial

Following the launch of the one-of-a-kind 1858 Split Second Chronograph with a blue agate dial for the upcoming Only Watch charity auction, Montblanc has unveiled a limited edition in bronze with a nephrite jade dial. The eight-piece edition was created for Salón Internacional Alta Relojería (SIAR), a big watch fair in Mexico City attended by most major brands, explaining the green dial with red accents – a nod to the Mexican flag. Though the bronze-and-green livery has been applied to multiple models in the 1858 range, the new SIAR edition adds a fascinating point of departure, with the dial being a semiprecious stone rather than the usual lacquered brass. The dial is essentially a thin slice of nephrite, a mineral better known as jade. It’s usually dark green, but sometimes also yellow or white; white nephrite is known as “mutton fat” jade in China and highly prized. The other mineral also known as jade is jadeite, but it’s harder, denser and often found in brighter colours. Mechanically and aesthetically, the watch is as retro as it gets. The design of the dial was inspired by a pilot’s chronograph produced by Minerva in the 1930s. It has a double chronograph scales – a telemeter on the outer rim and a snail-shaped tachymeter in the centre. The rose-gold plated cathedral hands and Arabic numerals are coated with faux-aged lume, as on the regular production model. The red seconds numerals and hand adds a rich contrast against the pleasingly busy dial, ...

Changes at Time+Tide, Felix stepping down as editor, new faces in the team Time+Tide
Oct 31, 2019

Changes at Time+Tide, Felix stepping down as editor, new faces in the team

Today is a big moment in the short history of Time+Tide. It’s the day we bid farewell to Felix, who is stepping down from his role as Editor. We know that this will be sad news for many readers and viewers who have enjoyed all of the stories, videos and sass, delivered just about all … ContinuedThe post Changes at Time+Tide, Felix stepping down as editor, new faces in the team appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko 1969 Quartz Astron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition Time+Tide
Seiko 1969 Quartz Astron 50th Oct 31, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Seiko 1969 Quartz Astron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition

It’s fair to say that Seiko has dropped quite a few limited edition anniversary timepieces in 2019, and you definitely could’ve been mistaken for thinking that surely the Japanese watchmaker had nothing left in their product arsenal … and then they released this – the Seiko 1969 Quartz Astron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition. As the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko 1969 Quartz Astron 50th Anniversary Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.