Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Episode 78: Gear Patrol's Eric Yang & Chinese Watch Sales Woes
The product guru talks about stocking up, paring back, and the importance of helping people find their passions.
29,603 articles · 2,003 videos found · page 901 of 1054
Hodinkee
The product guru talks about stocking up, paring back, and the importance of helping people find their passions.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Timex has been on a roll since the release of the Marlin a little while back. Since then, the watch world has gone completely nuts over reissues like the Q and vintage-inspired models like the recent M79. Join Mike and Kaz as they run through Timex's greatest hits, analyze the brand's overall strategy, and consider adding Timex models to their own personal collections.
SJX Watches
Reviving a name once used for a line of tonneau-shaped women’s watches, Vacheron Constantin has just unveiled the Égérie, now a round watch with an unusually positioned crown. Translating as “muse”, Égérie is a slightly larger and more casual automatic watch for ladies, setting it apart from Vacheron Constantin’s current offerings for ladies, which are mostly downsized or quartz versions of men’s watches, as well as pricey, high-jewellery timepieces. That also sets it apart from its namesake, introduced in 2003 with a tonneau case, which lasted several years in the catalogue but never quite took off. Inspired by haute couture according to Vacheron Constantin, the new Égérie line is centred on two models, with either a moon phase or date. Each is offered in pink gold or steel, as well as a fully diamond-set version in white gold, for a total of five models. Égérie Self-Winding (top row), and Égérie Moonphase All models share a fully polished case with a diamond-set bezel, with a silver opaline dial featuring an offset sub-dial at two o’clock that sits just beside the crown, topped with a moonstone cabochon. The dials are decorated with a pleated, radial guilloche done the traditional way, with a hand-operated rose engine. The engine-turning is intersected up by a chapter ring with spherical markings for the minutes and applied gold hour numerals. Specially designed for the collection, the numerals are a modern take on traditional Breguet numerals...
Time+Tide
At the time of writing, the Coronavirus outbreak has already infected more than 70,500 people in China and resulted in 1770 deaths. It’s forced the quarantine of more than 50 million people in China and resulted in travel and visa restrictions to more than 70 countries. If that’s not bad enough, a new article in … ContinuedThe post 3 reasons why the Coronavirus is really bad news for the luxury watch industry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Auction catalogues often offer early 20th century pocket watches of impressive, refined quality that bear the names of unfamiliar Geneva firms. Amongst the most prominent are Agassiz, Ed. Koehn, Haas Neveux, and Touchon. Despite their obscurity now, these brands were once amongst the best in the world – arguably the equals of Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin, producing or retailing highly complicated and extra-thin timepieces. All of them, save for one, are now defunct and long forgotten. In fact, most went under long before the Quartz Crisis. A single name has survived and prospered while remaining a family business, by evolving its business over the centuries – Golay Fils & Stahl. A familiar name As an avid reader of auction catalogues, I had come across Golay Fils & Stahl on several occasions, and the name stayed with me because of the high quality of firm’s pocket watches (Haas Neveux being another). Then in November 2019, Phillips sold the Patek Philippe ref. 3652 minute-repeating wristwatch. Not only was the watch relatively recent, having been made in 1985, it was a unique reference powered by a reworked vintage movement – and signed “Golay Fils & Stahl” on the dial. Few retailers get their name on modern Patek Philippe watches, let alone a one-off, custom timepiece. It piqued my curiosity. The ref. 3652 – essentially a Calatrava ref. 96 minute repeater By sheer chance that curiosity was satisfied when Melissa Wolfgang Amenc got in touch after see...
SJX Watches
Having unveiled the vintage-inspired Presage Automatic Chronograph ref. SRQ031 in October 2019, Seiko has returned to the same historical wristwatch with the Presage Prestige 2020. Comprising of three variants – SPB127J1, SPB131J1, and SPB129J1 – the new Presage is once again modelled on the “Crown” chronograph ref. 5719A-45899 that was unveiled in 1964 to mark that year’s Tokyo Olympics. The vintage original was a mono-pusher chronograph with basic functionality, featuring a central, elapsed seconds hand and black plastic bidirectional bezel for recording times of over a minute. Last year’s Presage chronograph was a step up from the original with three counters, but this year’s Presage Prestige does away with the chronograph altogether. But since the original had a plain dial without registers, the new Presage Prestige manages to look pretty much the same. The original “Crown” chronograph from 1964 All three versions of the Presage Prestige differ only in dial colour, and are otherwise identical in terms of dimensions, design and movement. Because of the styling of the “Crown” Chronograph, the Presage Prestige manages to be fairly faithful to the original. Nearly all of the elements of the dial, from the chapter ring with the applied hour markers and oblong “lume” plots to the dauphine hands, are a close-enough replica of the original. Granted it has been modernised with the usual tweaks found in remakes, including a slightly larger case and ...
Time+Tide
While watches equipped with a moon phase complication aren’t without their detractors, for the astronomically inclined, they are wonderful devices. And, from an aesthetic standpoint, timepieces just tend to look better when they sport some form of moon on their dial. Don’t believe us? Well, take a look at these four watches … maybe they’ll … ContinuedThe post Out of this world: These are 4 of the most attractive moon phases money can buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Ben came into the Time+Tide offices to buy a NATO strap for his TAG Heuer Monaco. But the conversation quickly turned to the unusual Bulgari diver’s watch on his wrist. Here, Ben explains the backstory behind the purchase and why - despite it contradicting everything he normally likes in a watch - he absolutely loves it. Originally, … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal: Ben’s Bulgari Diagono Scuba appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
"Times change, and we change with them" – William Henry Harrison
Time+Tide
Of all the Swiss watch manufacturers, Audemars Piguet has had one of the longest and most storied histories since their founding in the Vallée de Joux in 1875. For their entire period of operation, Audemars Piguet has been a family-run watchmaker, affording them an independence from the commercial pressures of conglomerates and allowing the brand … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: In conversation with Audemars Piguet historian Michael Friedman appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Sinn. Unashamedly built for purpose, where function trumps form. The German brand is known for creating over-engineered tool watches that will last the wearer a lifetime, but perhaps not so necessary for everyday life, job depending of course. While the aviation aesthetic ties are strong and well documented, Sinn has expanded in recent years to entice a broader consumer with options that are more suited to civilian/everyday life. The Sinn104 StSa I W, being a collective hybrid of aviation and diver resulting from this design direction. CASE: The 104 could be considered mostly a modern interpretation of a pilots watch with a sprinkle of diver DNA. The highly polished, stainless steel case and lugs scream dressy attire, yet the angular, sharp lugs give a slightly more aggressive demeanour. Small crown guards are provided to add some protection to the more than adequate signed crown, which at times can dig into the wrist with specific movements if not worn higher on the wrist. On the reverse, a sapphire display case back reveals the SW220-1 movement along with some minor decorations such as gold rotor and blued screws. The drawback here being the 38hr power reserve which at times can be a reach and winding of the movement is…not the smoothest. The tech inside includes; anti-shock, anti-magnetism and a hefty 200mWR which puts other “sports watch” to shame. DIAL: There is no doubt the 104 is built for one purpose…legibility. The beautiful white glossy dial...
Deployant
Chopard celebrates three decades of partnership with the Mille Miglia race, la corsa più bella del mondo which is raced over a 1,600 km loop running from Brescia to Rome and back.
Quill & Pad
The awesome Greubel Forsey Art Piece Edition Historique is a true coalescence of a decade and a half of horological exploration into something stunningly simple and complicated all at once. Joshua Munchow explains why.
Revolution
Sinn introduces two new pilot watches, the 158 Pilot Chronograph inspired by the Sinn Bundeswehr and the 104 St Sa A B E in a radiant blue.
Quill & Pad
For the Michel Perchin Model #1, designer and brand owner Patrick Pinkston works with a well-versed goldsmith workshop in the United Kingdom that he describes as “literally fabricating one case at a time.” There, each 36 x 55 mm white gold case is hand-finished and engraved. What else makes this independently crafted timepiece notable? Nancy Olson has the full story.
Time+Tide
It was during a particularly cold snap in January that I decided to get off the couch and out of the house. I was restless. The internet had been bombarding me with watch photos, opinions, reviews and advertising. I’m quite sure the only Google algorithm pointed at me is for watches. On that frigid January … ContinuedThe post Why I put my own money behind the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Happy Valentine's Day! Presenting the new "couple" watch from Bovet - the Miss Audrey and Monsieur Bovet, both with convertible case.
Revolution
TAG Heuer dedicates its 160th anniversary to the Carrera, a watch birthed from the mind of the one and only Jack Heuer.
Revolution
It’s a leap year, and in the run-up to that special day Feb 29, Revolution takes a look at some of the Perpetual Calendars that mattered.
SJX Watches
The new Sinn 158 is unusual in being a remake of a vintage watch originally produced by another company, but due to a quirk of history, simultaneously a Sinn. In the 1960s and 1970s Heuer supplied the German armed forces, or Bundeswehr, with the 1550 SG flyback chronograph. Though typically military in style, the Heuer 1550 SG was fairly distinctive, with a black-coated rotating bezel and oversized sub-dials. A favourite remake In the 1980s, Sinn was contracted by the Bundeswehr to refurbish the 1550 SG watches, resulting in some having a Sinn-branded dial. At the same time, decommissioned or surplus watches were also acquired by Sinn, which then sold them to civilians. Having become something of a cult favourite due to its design, size, and affordability, the Heuer 1550 SG has been the subject of several past remakes by Sinn. Named the Sinn 155, the earliest remake was for the Japanese market in 2007, and later editions included a 155 for German department store Manufactum. A Heuer 1550 SG “Bund” from the 1970s. Photo – TAG Heuer Because of its hands, the 158 is the most modern-looking of the remakes, but still retains all of the key elements of the original, most notably the four screws to secure the inner case to the outer case, as well as the flat step where the lugs meet the bezel. Like the original, the 158 has a bead-blasted steel case with a bidirectional, black-coated aluminium bezel. The case is 43 mm like the 1550 SG, but slightly thicker at 15.15 mm high ...
Time+Tide
Buying a watch for anyone other than yourself is a difficult thing to do, for exactly the same reasons it is so enjoyable to wear a watch at all – it is a deeply personal decision. This challenge is amplified when you’re faced with the 14th of February, and are standing at the counter of … ContinuedThe post HOW TO: Buy a Valentine’s Day watch in 90 secs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Founded by a former car designer, Matthew Humphries Design (MHD) unsurprisingly sells automobile-inspired watches. The most original to date is the SA2, a time-only automatic with a distinctive case that seems familiar but is novel in form. MHD was founded in 2014 by Matthew Humphries, who, at age 21, became head of design at Morgan Motor Company, the maker of lightweight, retro sports cars that are hand-assembled and distinctly British. Amongst his creations during his stint at Morgan were the Aeromax, Aero SuperSports as well as the peculiar yet cool 3-Wheeler. Unsurprisingly given Morgan’s quirky and compact cars that still use wood for the body frame, the SA2 is slightly retro, while being notably refined and clean for a watch designed on the automotive-theme – one that is often characterised by eccentric, aesthetically-charged watches. A restrained use of colour allows the design of the SA2 to speak for itself. “Exoskeleton chassis case” Available in three different variants, the SA2’s defining feature is undoubtedly its case. While the outline is the common cushion form – at a glance it might be mistaken for yet another retro, cushion-shaped watch – the case is actually a skeletonised frame holding the case middle, a construction inspired by the chassis of a lightweight race car. Composed of four parts, the round case middle is supported by a thin, cushion-shaped frame with fixed bars at each end for the strap. Wide but slim, the case measures 41mm by 4...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Today, love is in the air. Florists are being run off their feet, restaurants are booked out and Cupid has spent the week on the archery range. If you’re planning to get a gift for your significant other, you’d better hurry up, but don’t forget to make sure your gift is a romantic … ContinuedThe post Franck Muller offers watchmaking that comes from the heart appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Just before the new year, Swiss competition regulator COMCO, also known by its German acronym Weko, announced a provisional suspension of ETA’s right to sell movements to third-party brands. Once the dominant supplier of mechanical movements in Switzerland, ETA and its parent Swatch Group have been embroiled in a decades-long dispute with COMCO over the movement maker’s allegedly anticompetitive practices. Now the dispute between Switzerland’s largest watchmaking group and COMCO has taken a fresh turn with the Swatch Group filing a complaint with the Swiss federal court on January 20, demanding a repeal of COMCO’s decision to suspend sales, a move first reported by Swiss newspaper Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ). An example of an ETA movement with upgraded features that ETA only supplies to sister brands; seen here inside a Hamilton According to the competition agency, the suspension of sales is meant to further weaken ETA’s market power as a major movement supplier, while allowing space for other movement suppliers to ramp up production and build their order books. The suspension remains in force until summer 2020, when COMCO will reach a final verdict on ETA’s rights and obligations. COMCO did allow a narrow exception to the ban, allowing ETA to sell its movements to small- and medium-sized watch brands that are existing clients. But the exception came a stipulation: Swatch Group has to treat all clients equally, which means selling movements to one small brand...
SJX Watches
With an annual output of just over four million watches, Tissot is Switzerland’s largest watchmaker by volume, with the bulk of its watches being affordable and quartz. But it has also carved out a niche with equally affordable mechanical watches starting at a bit under US$400 for the Swissmatic (a close relative of the Swatch Sistem51 movement). One step up is the Powermatic 80, an automatic movement that more closely resembles a traditional calibre – with more metal components and less plastic bits. A complicated model within the family, if it can be called that, is the Tissot Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80 GMT. It’s a dual time zone automatic starting at just US$875 – a value proposition that is also unusual in being one of the few GMT watches price below US$1,000. Chemin des Tourelles is the street in Le Locle where Tissot has had its factory since 1907 (though the brand was founded in 1853), sitting beside the facilities of Mido, Montblanc, and Vulcain. Unsurprisingly, the Chemin des Tourelles GMT is traditionally styled, though surprisingly large; the collection also includes a similarly affordable time-only automatic as well as a chronograph. The case is simple in form but appealing, with a surprising degree of detailing. The look is enhanced by the polished bevel on the outside edge of the lugs, which also have a notch where they join the case. And the case and bezel also have contrasting brushes and polished surfaces, making the whole more visually in...
Time+Tide
It’s very easy to get caught up in the aesthetics of a watch and subsequently make a judgement call based purely on how it looks … we’ve all done it before. And that’s not to say that looks aren’t important - they are crucial. But equally, if not more important than the way a mechanical watch … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Giving birth to the Nicholas Hacko NH2 Timascus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Nothing happens quickly in the whisky industry, but Ken Gargett thinks that the future is looking bright for Glenglassaugh and it should take its place among the elite producers. And then there's that superlative malt from 1965 that Ken recommends "to be sipped on bended knee."
Time+Tide
While a great many of the best watches unveiled in 2019 were vintage-inspired homages, there were also plenty of timepieces released that were resolutely modern and quite eccentric. And while we’d like to mention all of them, we’ve narrowed it down to these, the five quirkiest watches released in 2019: SWATCH FLYMAGIC The Flymagic is … ContinuedThe post Oddballs: 5 of the quirkiest watches released in 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The gauntlet has well and truly been thrown down on the polished concrete floors of Time+Tide’s headquarters in this week’s office row, as a truculent James Robinson asseverated that pocket watches in 2020 are about as useful as a solar powered watch in a sensory deprivation tank … that is to say, completely pointless. Deputy … ContinuedThe post Crime or Sublime: Pocket watches in 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We explore more rare watches and continue with the piéce unique Urwerk UR-T8 Colibri, a special collaboration between Urwerk and Emmanuel Esposito.
Question, suggestion, or just want to say hi? Drop a note.